[nithin_86]

In the Chennai weather is the CAI really a good option? Right now I guess its Ok but I have heard that CAI would be a real problem when flooding and all occur. That was why I wasn't considering the CAI.

[mayankk]

hmmmm.
well, my 2 cents is you can get a basic retrofit install done, with some rubber and aluminium tube sections.
The filter will just sit in the engine bay.
good for the noise, little else.
there's loads of examples for how to do that right here.
but if you cant find anything bespoke for your car,i'd suggest to not go for it.
wont work, and wont be worth the headaches.


for the flooding bit, how high does the water rise?
i think the baleno's intake sits somewhere at headlight level.
aint it?

[CPH]

Originally Posted by mayankk

K&N site doesnt list the baleno part either,not with MS, or suzuki.
what's the addition with the induction kit?
is it the heatshield thats extra?
rest of it looks like short ram.

you could try a CAI, apollo types.
That, i think, should be available for your car.

Apollo is a wate of time. It is worse than stock. Only K&N worth the effoert is the typhoon. CAI won,t have any advantages in virtually all applications.

[nithin_86]

The baleno intake stays near the headlight level. I thought the CAI intake is kept near the wheel arch where a lot of water may get sucked it. That was why I was hesitant. And water in Chennai can rise to how much ever it wants. You can never expect anything here I guess.

[CPH]

Originally Posted by nithin_86

The baleno intake stays near the headlight level. I thought the CAI intake is kept near the wheel arch where a lot of water may get sucked it. That was why I was hesitant. And water in Chennai can rise to how much ever it wants. You can never expect anything here I guess.

Whether stock or after market. When the water level rises over a certain level it is not wise to drive at all. I have seen plenty of cars in Britain and other European countries stranded with blown engines in floodede areas that were stock.

If you have a low or not even so low sitting air intake (factory or after market) you best disconnect it in deeper water and let it suck in from the throttle body up to the point where you are safe.

[rjstyles69]

Originally Posted by nithin_86

The baleno intake stays near the headlight level. I thought the CAI intake is kept near the wheel arch where a lot of water may get sucked it. That was why I was hesitant. And water in Chennai can rise to how much ever it wants. You can never expect anything here I guess.

Here is what it used to be in my older car. At this level also I don't think it would be really safe in case we are talking of floods considering the low stance of the baleno.

[nithin_86]

Thanks rjstyles69. The pic is really helpful. Before I actually proceed with it could you tell me what is the model of the filter and how much you had paid when you got it. Should I just ask for the Conical filter?

[rjstyles69]

Originally Posted by nithin_86

Thanks rjstyles69. The pic is really helpful. Before I actually proceed with it could you tell me what is the model of the filter and how much you had paid when you got it. Should I just ask for the Conical filter?

nithin just ask for the conical filter and keep in mind you would require the adapters, the intake pipe and clamps.

[nithin_86]

Hey guys! I was just checking out the prices for the conical filters for the Baleno. I enquired at the Privilege Moto Mall in Chennai which is listed in the Team-Bhp directory. They qouted around 13k for the Conical Filter alone. When i went down to Kochi last week I made an enquiry at Emperor and they qouted me around 6.5k for the filter alone and gave an estimate of around 4k for the pipes and clamps and stuff. Both didn't give me a model number. I am actually confused why such a price difference came up. The price is exactly double.

[Wild_Card]

Sorry guys I dont agree, in my books the K&N filter is the biggest waist of money and bad to your engine. let me explain.
1. We tested the K&N Filter range on a high power rally vehicle where the airflow can make a huge difference. We did the test on a dyno meter, we ran the vehicle with Cone filters, flat filter and the standard paper filter. The K&N filter range did not give us a single extra kW - ZERO extra power!! The K&N makes the driver beleive his car performs better is due the increase indiction noise, the vehicle sounds fast... but is it really faster...??? NO ITS NOT
2. These K&N cone filter in the engine bay is BAD... BAD... BAD. If you look at the original design of a airfilter, one of the imporatant designs is to get fresh cool air from outside. With the filter under the bonnet, just behind the radiator is now getting a supply of very hot air.. which is bad for performance.
3. Then have a look at the density of the filter, what is the microns of the new oil soaked filter. K&N might let more air through, but the only way is to make bigger holes in the air filter thus more air and more dirt. A K&N filter is only good to filter the larger pieces or dust or rocks. The oil base air filter system has never being successfull.
Thus more dust/dirt into your engine will reduce your engine`s life... for just more noise?

Sorry guys, after our tests inthe Rally car we kept the original paper air filter, we just replaced the filter more often due to the very dusty condtions the vehicle was used in.+

[Lalvaz]

Originally Posted by Wild_Card

Sorry guys I dont agree, in my books the K&N filter is the biggest waist of money and bad to your engine. let me explain.
1. We tested the K&N Filter range on a high power rally vehicle where the airflow can make a huge difference. We did the test on a dyno meter, we ran the vehicle with Cone filters, flat filter and the standard paper filter. The K&N filter range did not give us a single extra kW - ZERO extra power!! The K&N makes the driver beleive his car performs better is due the increase indiction noise, the vehicle sounds fast... but is it really faster...??? NO ITS NOT
2. These K&N cone filter in the engine bay is BAD... BAD... BAD. If you look at the original design of a airfilter, one of the imporatant designs is to get fresh cool air from outside. With the filter under the bonnet, just behind the radiator is now getting a supply of very hot air.. which is bad for performance.
3. Then have a look at the density of the filter, what is the microns of the new oil soaked filter. K&N might let more air through, but the only way is to make bigger holes in the air filter thus more air and more dirt. A K&N filter is only good to filter the larger pieces or dust or rocks. The oil base air filter system has never being successfull.
Thus more dust/dirt into your engine will reduce your engine`s life... for just more noise?

Sorry guys, after our tests inthe Rally car we kept the original paper air filter, we just replaced the filter more often due to the very dusty condtions the vehicle was used in.+

Hmmm, well, I saw a demo with a K&N stock filter and an ordinary paper filter that actually demonstrated greater air flow. And I used a K&N stock filter for 4+ years and 40k kms, and saw that the inner side was clean. So not sure how you claim that the dust passing through is greater.
Can believe you on the Dyno claim, since I never dyno'ed my ride, so dont have any stats.

[jkdas]

Wild_Card: if one had proper CAI, then it should make a difference right?

Sucking in hot air wont help and you just get the placebo effect thanks to the sound.

[mayankk]

Originally Posted by Lalvaz

Hmmm, well, I saw a demo with a K&N stock filter and an ordinary paper filter that actually demonstrated greater air flow. And I used a K&N stock filter for 4+ years and 40k kms, and saw that the inner side was clean. So not sure how you claim that the dust passing through is greater.
Can believe you on the Dyno claim, since I never dyno'ed my ride, so dont have any stats.

check your TB.
at least in my case, free flow caused a quicker build-up of grime....

but, but-MHP or not apart- my dte and actual mileage went from 5th day fillups to 6th day...

[Wild_Card]

The K&N Might have slight better airflow.

Do the following test, spray some oil in the intake pipe before and after your airfilter on the inside of the intake pipes, then go and drive very dusty roads - check after about 1000km the about of dust on the oil inside the pipes. You will find there is a lot of dust after the filter.
Sorry, but the extra airflow does not justify the larger dust peices going into the engine.

[CPH]

Originally Posted by Wild_Card

The K&N Might have slight better airflow.

Do the following test, spray some oil in the intake pipe before and after your airfilter on the inside of the intake pipes, then go and drive very dusty roads - check after about 1000km the about of dust on the oil inside the pipes. You will find there is a lot of dust after the filter.
Sorry, but the extra airflow does not justify the larger dust peices going into the engine.

Your experience is a one off and therefore not representative. I by no means are in love with K&N. However as a human I give credit where credit is due.

The filter medium is very good. The cone applications are by far not the best.

When you put the cone filter in a hot spot then you hardly can blame K&N for it. Also, a stationary testing is of limited use.

If you have made your test on a standalone ECU without adapting the mapping tables then you can render your test useless. Every professional tuner should know this, but I know from long term experience that too many seem not to know.

Another important point is to place the cone filter in the right position for flow dynamic reasons, which has to points to it, which are minimal exposure to contamination and and least turbulence as well as highest possible pressure.

To master this is a fine art, which I am trying to master on a daily basis for longer than 3 decades. It is not as straight forward as it looks on a dyno test.

Rally applications have very little in common with all other applications and require measures accordingly. The cheapest way to deal with them is paper filters, but this is by no means the best application to get the best power output.

One more point about build up of deposits. the direct injection petrol engines suffer from heavy build up on the inlet valves, which requires regular cleaning as otherwise the engine is ststematically starved of air.