[bill1182]

I am asking this query as I could not find any thing on this product.

Today when I went for my 2nd service, the service advisor showed me a product called Liqui Moly. He said that it is a good engine oil additive and will help in long running.

I have never heard of this product. Can anyone help me with thier experience with this product if used? How reliable is the product. It says Made in Germany but does not mention whether it is teflon or boron based additive.

I am planning to move to Mobil1 after i complete 10K. Currently my car has done 5K. With these plans will it be a waste of money if I put this Additive?

[saurabhkum]

Well which car you planning to use this product? I've never used Liqui Moly, but I've used Nulon Engine treatment for My Maruti 800. I don't think you need to use engine additive with 5k old engine, you won't get much benefit at this moment. I started using it once my car crossed 20k and I use it every 20k with the oil change. The benefits which I've got are
1. Smoother engine.
2. Reduction of Engine noise
3. Atleast 50% reduction in noise at the time of 1st start of the day.
4. Engine feels more punchy.
Nulon cost approx 500/- for the small quantity which needs to be used in Maruti 800 so effective cost is just 2.5 paise per k.m if you use it every 20000 k.m.
So i'll suggest wait for some more time before you start using it.
Saurabh

[gd1418]

No additive at this stage dear. Your car has done only 5k. Just get an oil/filter change and then use Mobil1 after 10k. It will keep your going for long.

[condor]

Bill, here's some threads:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...tment-oil.html
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifi...-any-good.html
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...dviceable.html

[bill1182]

Thank you guys for you inputs... as mentioned will be switching to Mobil1 after 10000.

One more query... is it ok to change oil every 10000 km or one should do it at 5000

[yogi1771]

read this thread http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifying-car/17917-article-synthetic-oil-vs-mineral-oil.html

[1100D]

Read this

The Engine Oil Bible : Additives

[gd1418]

If you are going to use Mobil1 continuosly then oil change at 10K. Go to Oils

Originally Posted by bill1182

Thank you guys for you inputs... as mentioned will be switching to Mobil1 after 10000.

One more query... is it ok to change oil every 10000 km or one should do it at 5000

[amit_mechengg]

hi guys.i tried to search the threads but didnt get any specific for comparison.MODS please re-route this thread if in wrong section.

Which engine oil additive is better Bardahl or STP or is there any better than this.
Bardahl comes in duplicate too with same packing, so its risky to buy.but its the most recommended one. STP is also very gud,very thick. i have put STP and running on it for last 6k kms. still engine oil is nice and viscous as new.

please suggest which is the best engine oil additive. both the above cost Rs.275- Rs350.

[PatienceWins]

I have got 250 ml of 3M engine oil additive. After adding the additive to the engine oil which was changed last week I find that the oil level is just over Full mark. Is that alright?

[dadu]

Not a problem, dont worry.

Originally Posted by PatienceWins

I have got 250 ml of 3M engine oil additive. After adding the additive to the engine oil which was changed last week I find that the oil level is just over Full mark. Is that alright?

[PatienceWins]

Originally Posted by dadu

Not a problem, dont worry.

Thanks dadu. I was thinking so. But got concerned after going through the carbible engine oil article.

Reference : Car maintenance : Everything you need to know about engine and motor oil
What happens when an engine is overfilled with oil?

So you topped up the engine when it was warm after getting a faulty dipstick reading, or you put too much oil in when you changed it yourself. What's the worst that could happen? Well the problem with this is that the next time the engine is run, the windage in the crankcase and other pressures generated by the oil pump, etc. place a great strain on the seal on the rear main bearing.
Eventually, often much sooner than the ordinary man in the street might expect, the rear main bearing seal ruptures, and the engine becomes a 'leaker'. If you've got a manual gearbox, this means one thing: this oil goes right onto the flywheel and the face of the clutch disc. A lubricated clutch is A Bad Thing. If this still goes unnoticed, the front seal is the next to go, and the engine then becomes a 'gusher' (or to be more colourful, it starts pissing oil all over the place). As well as smothering the clutch with oil from the rear, the oil now coming from the front leak will be neatly distributed about the engine bay as it hits the front pulley - often propelling it out as far as the brake discs. At the same time as this Hollywood disaster movie is unfolding outside the engine, things aren't working out any better on the inside. As you can see from the diagram, the correct oil level is really close to the rotating crank. Overfilling will mean the crank dips into the oil and churns it into a froth. Froth is good on certain types of coffee but not good in an engine. The mixture of aerated oil will be forced into the bearings and in case you didn't know, air is not a lubricant. Typically this means that bearing damage will follow quite rapidly, especially if you are driving on a motorway. You'll know bearing damage when you get it. The engine smells like a garage mechanic cooking over an open flame and the noise coming from the engine is the sort of thing you'd normally hear in vaudeville plays when a piano is pushed down a flight of stairs. As if that all wasn't bad enough, the excess oil gets thrown up into the piston bores where the piston rings have a hard time coping with the excess oil and pressure. It gets into the combustion chamber and some of it will get out into the exhaust system unburned resulting in a nice patina of oil all over the platinum surfaces of your catalytic converter. This renders it utterly useless for good.
Well, you did ask.

[GTO - Touring]

Originally Posted by PatienceWins

Thanks dadu. I was thinking so. But got concerned after going through the carbible engine oil article.

Some techies insist that excessive engine oil is almost as bad as running the engine with insufficient oil. In your case, you are max 250 ml over the required limit. Though it wouldn't be that severe a problem, I would still go to a shop and get the level back to optimum.

[Gurkha]

Mobil-I doesn't need any additive, rather putting an additive in a synthetic oil will in all probabilities degrade or worse, break the chemical structure of the oil. Avoid at any cost. None of today's premium oils synthetic or otherwise need any kind of additives as such. They are formulated to perform at peak level all through their life span till the next oil change. Most additives generally upset the chemical balance in the oil set by the factory and go about doing more harm than good. PTFE based additives is to be avoided at all costs.

[kapilsharma80]

Originally Posted by Gurkha

Mobil-I doesn't need any additive, rather putting an additive in a synthetic oil will in all probabilities degrade or worse, break the chemical structure of the oil. Avoid at any cost. None of today's premium oils synthetic or otherwise need any kind of additives as such. They are formulated to perform at peak level all through their life span till the next oil change. Most additives generally upset the chemical balance in the oil set by the factory and go about doing more harm than good. PTFE based additives is to be avoided at all costs.

thats perfectly summed up by Gurkha!

you can try OWS 210 (engine flush) and OWS 360 (Oil treatment). it does wonders to your car. the car runs smoother and the emissions are negligieable. make sure you check the manufacturing date before buying such things. additives should not be more than 2 years old