[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

Got the starter overhauled at Lucas TVS today. Car engine now sounds very sweet while starting. The real test would be how the starter behaves when the engine is extremely hot. Can test this only on Tuesday after reaching office, till then fingers crossed

Just an update from my side. Reached office at 01:10 pm today afternoon. As AC was ON & there was sufficient traffic, the temperature needle was hovering at 75-80% mark. First parked the car safely in the parking bay. Switched the engine off & then again gave the ignition key. Waited for 7-8 seconds after the glow plug indicator went off & cranked the engine. Phew, no hesitation this time & engine was happy to start though pretty hot. Will do this test for 3 more days before I can comprehensively conclude that the hot crank problem has been nailed down for once & all.

Thanks to all the TBHP members who had pitched in with their valuable inputs

[CRDIsamir]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

Just an update from my side. Reached office at 01:10 pm today afternoon. As AC was ON & there was sufficient traffic, the temperature needle was hovering at 75-80% mark. First parked the car safely in the parking bay. Switched the engine off & then again gave the ignition key. Waited for 7-8 seconds after the glow plug indicator went off & cranked the engine. Phew, no hesitation this time & engine was happy to start though pretty hot. Will do this test for 3 more days before I can comprehensively conclude that the hot crank problem has been nailed down for once & all.

Thanks to all the TBHP members who had pitched in with their valuable inputs

CHEERS!!!!
Enjoy your Indica

Regards

[mercedised]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

the temperature needle was hovering at 75-80% mark.

The temperature needle should not be more than 60% in peak traffic conditions. 80% is a sign of engine overheating which if prolonged will burn the gasket.

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by mercedised

The temperature needle should not be more than 60% in peak traffic conditions. 80% is a sign of engine overheating which if prolonged will burn the gasket.

I am sorry if I confused percent with degrees. If you consider the temperature guage as a protractor ("D" in a compass box), then the needle extreme left position can be considered as Zero degrees, extreme right as 180 degrees & the centre position as 90 degrees, so 80% means around 80 degrees.

[mercedised]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

I am sorry if I confused percent with degrees. If you consider the temperature guage as a protractor ("D" in a compass box), then the needle extreme left position can be considered as Zero degrees, extreme right as 180 degrees & the centre position as 90 degrees, so 80% means around 80 degrees.

Some serious calculations there. This was my first time when I get this much deep into a Temperature needle, apologies. Yes, 80 degree (I am talking about temperature not angle) should be normal temperature for any car.

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

JWill do this test for 3 more days before I can comprehensively conclude that the hot crank problem has been nailed down for once & all.

Glad to inform the group that the hot crank problem has been nailed at last. Today when I reached office the temperature needle was exactly at the centre mark, with the radiator fan just kicked in. Switched off the engine, gave the ignition key & within a couple of seconds cranked the motor, no hesitation from a very hot engine. Have observed this on 3 different occasions. Now I can say with confidence that I have been finally able to fix this issue.

Other members who are facing this problem, I would urge them to get this done from the nearest Lucas TVS centre.

[indivic]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

Glad to inform the group that the hot crank problem has been nailed at last.

Thats good news AutoIndian, I guess for the Indica V2 most of the work should be done at Lucas instead of any TASS

Coming to the issue I am facing now, there is an increase in running noise when I go above 40 km/hr, the noise increases with speed and is not from the engine/drivetrain (since the noise is constant, even if I press the clutch fully at about 50-60 km/hr).

Could it be the wheel bearings ...again ?

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by indivic

Thats good news AutoIndian, I guess for the Indica V2 most of the work should be done at Lucas instead of any TASS

Absolutely, Lucas TVS folks are more competant, they charge you a fraction of what the TASC's charge & most importantly you can get the work done right in front of your eyes.

Originally Posted by indivic

Coming to the issue I am facing now, there is an increase in running noise when I go above 40 km/hr, the noise increases with speed and is not from the engine/drivetrain (since the noise is constant, even if I press the clutch fully at about 50-60 km/hr). Could it be the wheel bearings ...again ?

Unfortunately I have to say yes from the symptoms that you have mentioned. Suggest one test. When you are going at 50-60 km/hr, shift to neutral (so that you are cut off from the engine & transmission) & carefully listen to the sound. If it is still there then it is almost certain that the bearing has gone kaput. Moreover you can go to a good garage. Lift the car on a ram & rotate each wheel independantly. The one with failed bearing will make cyclical noise.

[cyberwhizs]

While travelling on real bad village roads i misjudged a hump/crater and managed to get the balance rod bent though i was driving very slow. The car made a lot of noise/shudder at lower rpms but it was able to move, so i drove at a moderate pace to the next village. Took it to the only mechanic in the next village. He dismantled the balance rod, gave it a few whacks with a hammer to straighten it and subsequently refitted it. The noise went off and car seemed to drive ok. Subsequently i drove back home, around 800 km, without any issue.

My question is, should i go ahead and replace the balance rod since it is a precision item. There are no signs of uneven tyre wear or alignment issues at the moment.

If i were to replace the balance rod how much would it cost?

The car seems a bit sluggish after the incident but i am not sure why.

Appreciate inputs from all.

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by cyberwhizs

My question is, should i go ahead and replace the balance rod since it is a precision item. There are no signs of uneven tyre wear or alignment issues at the moment.

If i were to replace the balance rod how much would it cost?

The car seems a bit sluggish after the incident but i am not sure why.

Appreciate inputs from all.

If the bend on the tie rod has been removed & you are not facing any issues now, then I think you can continue using your current one, however please do keep monitoring your tyres for uneven wear. I guess a new tie rod would cost around Rs 650/-.

[SMARTF]

TASC are really bad, they create more problems than solving any.

I have been suffering since past 4 years (Manipal Motors, EMA Motors, Prerana Motors and Aadya Motors).

I gave my car for service at Aadya and they messed up with wheel alignment and blamed the tyres. Thanks to Nikhil and Madhu's it was resolved.

Please guide me to some non-tata workshop where they do a good job and do not break or spoil something which is good.

One constant issue has been the Check Engine lights. Trying to resolve that they messed up the Temperature Gauge . Now, both of them are erratic, it works sometimes and does not work sometime. Need help in figuring out what could be the issue ?? Radiator fan continue to run even after I switch off the car, sometimes for upto 5 minutes.

Please HELP !!!

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by SMARTF

TASS are really bad, they create more problems than solving any.

Welcome to the world of TASS. The only way we can avoid such agony is by being more vigilant & knowledgeable about our cars.

Originally Posted by SMARTF

Please guide me to some non-tata workshop where they do a good job and do not break or spoil something which is good.

Don't know @ non-tata workshop in B'lore, however some friends often get their cars serviced from Hi-Tech Auto - Rajajinagar, Bangalore.
Phone: 080-23125444 / 23125409 / 23128226 & they have found it quite good

Originally Posted by SMARTF

Radiator fan continue to run even after I switch off the car, sometimes for upto 5 minutes. Please HELP !!!

If your engine is overheated the radiator fan continues to run even if the engine is switched off. If you completely turn off the key & remove it, battery supply to the fan is disconnected & it stops. This is how normally it works.

[SMARTF]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

Don't know @ non-tata workshop in B'lore, however some friends often get their cars serviced from Hi-Tech Auto - Rajajinagar, Bangalore.
Phone: 080-23125444 / 23125409 / 23128226 & they have found it quite good

Thanks

If your engine is overheated the radiator fan continues to run even if the engine is switched off. If you completely turn off the key & remove it, battery supply to the fan is disconnected & it stops. This is how normally it works.

The radiator fan continues to run even after completely turning off and removing the key (and after parking the car)


How come the engine is overheated in normal city traffic or suddenly in the highway although it seamed ok after hour of running ???

It does not happen every time. Just some times and never during test drives ???

Any Indica owners from Bangalore with recommendations for good service centers ... preferably in north Bangalore (Hebbal / R T Nagar) !!!

[SMARTF]

Can anyone recommend a shop where I could get spares for Indica Xeta at a reasonable price in Bangalore. The dealers and authorised workshop are tooooo expensive !!

[indivic]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

Unfortunately I have to say yes from the symptoms that you have mentioned. Suggest one test. When you are going at 50-60 km/hr, shift to neutral (so that you are cut off from the engine & transmission) & carefully listen to the sound. If it is still there then it is almost certain that the bearing has gone kaput. Moreover you can go to a good garage. Lift the car on a ram & rotate each wheel independantly. The one with failed bearing will make cyclical noise.

^^ Update time, after trying out with TASS and Mahindra First Choice garages, finally went to IgNite run by Raghav. Turns out that the rear wheel bearings were shot. Got them changed, wheels aligned and rotated. Now no more noise. Overall a big to Raghav and to you !

P.S I am now looking to see if you will go Fluidic or not, did you make up your mind? I missed a few days of reading on that thread.

Originally Posted by cyberwhizs

While travelling on real bad village roads i misjudged a hump/crater and managed to get the balance rod bent though i was driving very slow. The car made a lot of noise/shudder at lower rpms but it was able to move, so i drove at a moderate pace to the next village. Took it to the only mechanic in the next village. He dismantled the balance rod, gave it a few whacks with a hammer to straighten it and subsequently refitted it. The noise went off and car seemed to drive ok. Subsequently i drove back home, around 800 km, without any issue.

My question is, should i go ahead and replace the balance rod since it is a precision item. There are no signs of uneven tyre wear or alignment issues at the moment.

If i were to replace the balance rod how much would it cost?

The car seems a bit sluggish after the incident but i am not sure why.

Appreciate inputs from all.

I would recommend to check if there is no impact to the AC equipment, I had a similar mishap and damaged the lower arm and tie rod, even though TASC replaced them they did not inspect the other items for damage.

It turns out that the AC condenser fan had been hit as well and was not running at all and even the condenser had a minor impact but it is serviceable. I was running it like this for the last 1.5 years

Got them worked on at IgNite and the AC refrigerant topped up, now its freezing even at speed 1.