[kcj3b]

Originally Posted by deep_bang

Let me go back and open my car's bonnet and see if i can find anyother reason to get stuck. Will get back by tomorrow morning (now its too dark to play around).

Dude the missing rubber is the culprit.actually the one still hanging there just had it. It cant take the load and needs either to be raise by unscrewing it or replaced as its life is over and cant keep the bonnet tightly closed .as the bonnet is not tight enough the lever will pop it and not good enough for it to be opened. In short,get the rubbers

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by mercedised

Yes that rubber is the reason. Those rubbers does a job of spring so that when we pull the bonnet opening lever those rubbers pushes the bonnet up and thus the bonnet gets unlocked. Get that rubber. Or alternatively, get a person to hold the bonnet lever for you and then another person open the bonnet. This is what I do regularly due to the same problem. Although I have developed my own methods to open bonnet nowadays.

Originally Posted by kcj3b

Dude the missing rubber is the culprit.actually the one still hanging there just had it. It cant take the load and needs either to be raise by unscrewing it or replaced as its life is over and cant keep the bonnet tightly closed .as the bonnet is not tight enough the lever will pop it and not good enough for it to be opened. In short,get the rubbers

Guys finally the issue is resolved, thanks for your suggestions. This morning I went to Pandit Auto & bought 2 rubber screws (each costed me Rs 14/-). Below are the pics. These are simple rubber screws with 5-6 threads. These need to be simply screwed in the hole (can be seen in the second picture). Now the bonnet gets locked excerting some pressure on these two screws. I have kept four threads outside & two inside. When the lever is pulled from inside the car to unlock the bonnet, it pops up as the screws release the pressure & I can easily lift it now by pressing the flap under the bonnet.

[kcj3b]

Lovely Sir,great to see we all learning from each others experience.
Another thing which makes me feel proud is how a few people still take care of these machines by taking care of these details.
Lucky are those who get the required spare n expertise.
I own a 2004 Indica Dls now clocking 66k is a rare thing in this part of the world and getting such small but essential parts is a dream!!!!!!!

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by kcj3b

Lovely Sir,great to see we all learning from each others experience. Another thing which makes me feel proud is how a few people still take care of these machines by taking care of these details.

Very true. TBHP is such a great forum & there are so many things to learn from each one of us over here, it is just un-ending. I do take utmost care of my car & bike, there are many like minded people over here. I am of the firm belief, if you take care of her (car, bike, bike-o aka wife), she will never let you down & will return the same care multi-fold times.

Originally Posted by kcj3b

Lucky are those who get the required spare n expertise. I own a 2004 Indica Dls now clocking 66k is a rare thing in this part of the world and getting such small but essential parts is a dream!!!!!!!

I can understand that. I am very fortunate to live in the same city where Indica was born & getting the spares here is a breeze. Any time any of the forum members find difficulty in procuring any Indica spare part they can drop me a private message & I can source it for them.

[johnruben]

@scopriobharath & @AutoIndian, i went again to Prerana motors next day to rectify this, the service guy as usual said, oil above the max mark is still normal and he has been doing this for all indica's, i gave him my piece of mind and told him NOT to give wrong information to customer if he doesnt know, finally supervisor drained some of the excess oil and i also added Bardhal engine oil Additive, now attaching the pictures of dipstick showing oil level along with full invoice.

Please do comment about the wheel bearing being changed at 36k km and also wheel cylinder replacement, i think i have been conned here, expert advise needed, b/w my tyres are upsized than usual indica's, they are 175 R14

Please also comment on the dipstick level, the backside of dipstick shows more then max while front shows below the max, is it normal ?

PS: my apologize for picture quality (in PDF) being terrible, took snapshot from my phone.

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by johnruben

Finally supervisor drained some of the excess oil and i also added Bardhal engine oil Additive, now attaching the pictures of dipstick showing oil level along with full invoice. Please also comment on the dipstick level, the backside of dipstick shows more then max while front shows below the max, is it normal ?

The correct way of checking oil level with a dip stick:
1. Park the car on a leveled floor.
2. The engine should be off for at least a couple of hours (& cold) so that all the oil collects in the sump (Never check the oil level when the engine is hot)
3. Take out the dip stick, wipe the oil on it with a clean cloth/ newspaper.
4. Insert the dip stick in the oil well completely, hold it for a couple of seconds & then remove it.
5. After removing hold it vertically & check if the oil level is between the two marks.
6. The oil level should be the same on either side of the dip stick

Originally Posted by johnruben

Please do comment about the wheel bearing being changed at 36k km and also wheel cylinder replacement, i think i have been conned here, expert advise needed, b/w my tyres are upsized than usual indica's, they are 175 R14

Did they show you the damaged bearing that was replaced? What is the wheel cylinder assembly, can you please clarify?

[johnruben]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

The correct way of checking oil level with a dip stick:
1. Park the car on a leveled floor.
2. The engine should be off for at least a couple of hours (& cold) so that all the oil collects in the sump (Never check the oil level when the engine is hot)
3. Take out the dip stick, wipe the oil on it with a clean cloth/ newspaper.
4. Insert the dip stick in the oil well completely, hold it for a couple of seconds & then remove it.
5. After removing hold it vertically & check if the oil level is between the two marks.
6. The oil level should be the same on either side of the dip stick

Yes, this is how i check, I check in the morning before starting the engine, but never ever have both sides of dipstick level been equal, i have tried many times, front part is below max, but when i check the other side it is above normal, this happens always.

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

Did they show you the damaged bearing that was replaced? What is the wheel cylinder assembly, can you please clarify?

Note from the Team-BHP Support: Post edited. Please note that it is now imperative for you to upload pictures directly to the Team-BHP Server. Click here (Uploading photographs directly to Team-BHP) to view our simple help article on uploading pictures.

[condor]

Originally Posted by johnruben

Total bill came to 10k + for vehicle which is still under extended warranty and which has clocked only 36k km :(

Please share the invoice details. Wonder what could make it cost 10k even with extended warranty ?

Originally Posted by johnruben

.. mistake they did is overfilled engine oil,

A.S.S often do this. They would have also billed you for the "excess" oil. Next time you go for servicing (anywhere):
1. Check your owner's manual for qty of oil required.
2. Insist (when JC is being prepared) that put in half liter less. Make them write it there.
3. When taking car back, check engine oil. Ensure it is not above max.
4. Since engine will be a little warm (due to trial run etc), it is quite normal to check oil level at this time.
5. If required, ask them to top up the oil. Then proceed for billing.

Checking of Oil level should be part of checking the car before accepting it after service.

Btw, who was the service Advisor you met ?

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by johnruben

Yes, this is how i check, I check in the morning before starting the engine, but never ever have both sides of dipstick level been equal, i have tried many times, front part is below max, but when i check the other side it is above normal, this happens always.

This is quite strange. Have you tried reversing the sides & then inserting the dip stick? Is the yellow bulb (solid plastic round) at the bottom of the dip stick intact? If not then the stick is likely to rub against the walls of the oil well & pick up some residual oil from the walls when it is being lifted.

Note from the Team-BHP Support: Post edited. Please note that it is now imperative for you to upload pictures directly to the Team-BHP Server. Click here (Uploading photographs directly to Team-BHP) to view our simple help article on uploading pictures.

Please reload the pictures as suggested by the mods. I made my first ever rear wheel bearing change at the recently done 100K service, that too only for the LHS rear wheel. The mechanic showed me the rollers on the taper roller bearing had some brownish yellow marks on the circumference (unfortunately don't have pictures) & suggested me to change it as a preventive measure, to which I readily agreed.

[kcj3b]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

Very true. TBHP is such a great forum & there are so many things to learn from each one of us over here, it is just un-ending. I do take utmost care of my car & bike, there are many like minded people over here. I am of the firm belief, if you take care of her (car, bike, bike-o aka wife), she will never let you down & will return the same care multi-fold times.

I can understand that. I am very fortunate to live in the same city where Indica was born & getting the spares here is a breeze. Any time any of the forum members find difficulty in procuring any Indica spare part they can drop me a private message & I can source it for them.

Well that a great news for people like me, will trouble you if needed!
Also do write about your experiences with Indica since urs has clocked the maximum here....
The morning start issue is gone, turned out that the hand pump was leaking air changed it.
Sometime back my Gearbox acted weird enough and Gear 1 n 2 were not engaged at all..got stuck up in a jam and got my clutch plate burned royally. Had to replace the clutch and comp plate set, although still feel the same are not as easy to engage,fear the same thing might catch me again,please comment

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by kcj3b

Well that a great news for people like me, will trouble you if needed!

No issues at all, you are most welcome anytime.

Originally Posted by kcj3b

Also do write about your experiences with Indica since urs has clocked the maximum here....

Don't know if you have already visited my ownership thread, if not then below is the link. I joined TBHP pretty late (Aug 2010), when my car was 6+ years old. So you won't find the initial experience in the thread, but the experience from 80K kms & beyond. However in the first page of the thread I have my car log attached. You can refer that for any further details.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ms-beyond.html

Originally Posted by kcj3b

The morning start issue is gone, turned out that the hand pump was leaking air changed it.

Hmnn starting trouble could be quite tricky to diagnose. I have faced almost all the scenarios. Car not starting due to:
1. Air leakage in fuel line, priming pump replaced
2. Air leakage in fuel line, fuel filter replaced ("O" ring gone)
3. Glow plugs gone
4. Battery down (replaced)
5. Starter motor not able to take the load when engine pretty hot (starter motor overhauled, armature winding changed)

Originally Posted by kcj3b

Sometime back my Gearbox acted weird enough and Gear 1 n 2 were not engaged at all..got stuck up in a jam and got my clutch plate burned royally. Had to replace the clutch and comp plate set, although still feel the same are not as easy to engage,fear the same thing might catch me again,please comment

This is not uncommon for Indicas. The first & second gears are quite notchy to engage (especially if you are downshifting). You need to shift with a lot of patience. Sorry to hear about your clutch getting damaged. Fortunately I am still on factory fitted clutch (touchwood). Always make it a habit to press the clutch pedal fully before changing gear & don't force the gear lever, give it a gentle push.

[kcj3b]

Yes true abt the Gearbox but what about on highways like in J&K where the terrain is hilly and needs a full gearbox workout?
Again i feel every indica is unique especially in the shares of problems,big or small.Some have wheel bearing issue ,some oil tank and so on.
For example the hot cranking issue which i faced resolved automatically after my battery change last year.inside mirrors of ovrm is something which still is not available in original .i still dont undertand why aucostic dampner - the plastic cover on the engine was included in dlx n dlg but not dls but helps a lot in reducing engine noise, was too interested in installing it but could'nt get it. Glow plugs is another thing now which i have learned how to check and change myself.

[johnruben]

@condor, i have already attached the invoice, its above in post #890

@AutoIndian, i had earlier provided the links for cylinder and bearing from google, since i threw the old one's given by TASC, if you google under Google-Images you will find them.

Regarding the plastic part in the dipstick seems ok, i dont know why excess oil is shown in the opposite side, hope everything is ok.

[kcj3b]

Update: electrical ghost just struck!!!!!
Seems the Alternator regulator is gone,hope alternator is safe. Will get it checked in the morning
Clock is gone too only lits up wen headlights are on and get reset everytime lights are switched off n on, very annoying especially when you depend on it since so many years.
My driving his car behind me told me that only centre high brake light is working on brakes although tail lights are working fine with headlights.

[NOTORIOUS]

is there a way to check weather all four cylemders are firing properly or not ???


asking because one of my friends xeta is vibrating a lot , if they are engine mounts then vibration must distort while accelarating or deaccelarating . but thats not the case.


i am confused , please help !!!