[johnruben]

@ AutoIndian, Thanks for the quick reply.

I Guess i would stick with mineral itself, but since the last oil change was 29k km, i prefer to change oil now (7k km touched).

Castrol GTD 15W40 - Isnt it the same oil TASC guys use ?

I am not sure about drop in the oil level, since the entire filler cap is black, i will clean and post some pictures here.

Thanks

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by johnruben

@ AutoIndian, Thanks for the quick reply.

I Guess i would stick with mineral itself, but since the last oil change was 29k km, i prefer to change oil now (7k km touched).

Castrol GTD 15W40 - Isnt it the same oil TASC guys use ?

I am not sure about drop in the oil level, since the entire filler cap is black, i will clean and post some pictures here.

Thanks

Was the last oil change done more than 6 months ago? If yes then go for the change, else not. Yes some TASC guys use Castrol GTD 15W40. What I do is purchase the 4 litre can of this oil & get it changed in front of me.

[johnruben]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

Was the last oil change done more than 6 months ago? If yes then go for the change, else not.

Yes, Car was serviced in Feb 2011.

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

What I do is purchase the 4 litre can of this oil & get it changed in front of me.

I Guess i cant do that, since TASC guys wont accept oil from me and if i do it outside i might void warranty. anyway thanks for your quick response and suggestions, i will stick with mineral oil.

Between what about Bardhal oil, they add 5ml and charge Rs.500, does this really necessary and does it make such a difference ?

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by johnruben

Between what about Bardhal oil, they add 5ml and charge Rs.500, does this really necessary and does it make such a difference ?

Are you sure they add just 5ml and charge Rs.500 for that? At my 80K service I when I changed the engine oil I added the oil additive Bardahl Special Duty. The can of 300ml costed me just 450.00. Can't really quantify the difference. However the engine felt smoother & I didn't require any kind of oil top-up even after covering 10K kms (in short the engine is not consuming/burning oil).

[johnruben]

@AutoIndian, i have attached the pictures where power steering oil is leaking, however the level is between minimum and maximum, pls advice what i should be doing to fix this?

Regarding oil additive here is the details:
BG RF-7 oil treatment - 0.001 ltr - Rs.449.78

This sounds like fake, isnt it? How can 1ml of oil make any difference to the engine ? And it costs ~Rs. 500 for 1ml

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by johnruben

@AutoIndian, i have attached the pictures where power steering oil is leaking, however the level is between minimum and maximum, pls advice what i should be doing to fix this?

Such typre of oil leakage is not uncommon, even I have faced it in my car, but no ill effects yet. I would suggest at present just clean the area where oil has leaked. Observe the same area for a week & keep a watch on the oil level. If the level is maintained then nothing to worry else troubleshoot.

Originally Posted by johnruben

Regarding oil additive here is the details:
BG RF-7 oil treatment - 0.001 ltr - Rs.449.78

This sounds like fake, isnt it? How can 1ml of oil make any difference to the engine ? And it costs ~Rs. 500 for 1ml

That is pure crap. Don't go for the oil additive. 1 ml oil can have no effect at all. So say a firm NO to it

[johnruben]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

Such typre of oil leakage is not uncommon, even I have faced it in my car, but no ill effects yet. I would suggest at present just clean the area where oil has leaked. Observe the same area for a week & keep a watch on the oil level. If the level is maintained then nothing to worry else troubleshoot.

Earlier i had cleaned this, now after driving ~700km i see oil and dirt deposits back, i am unable to notice oil level going down, it must be in few ml. I think its one of the hose which is leaking, but my friend (1st owner) says the hose was replaced in 29k km service, so could it be something else? If anyone can pinpoint i can replace within warranty and before it expires.

[teknophobia]

My car has been doing that for a loooong time, haven't really seen any noticeable drop in power steering fluid. Haven't had to top it up in 3 years.

[mercedised]

Originally Posted by johnruben

Earlier i had cleaned this, now after driving ~700km i see oil and dirt deposits back, i am unable to notice oil level going down, it must be in few ml. I think its one of the hose which is leaking, but my friend (1st owner) says the hose was replaced in 29k km service, so could it be something else? If anyone can pinpoint i can replace within warranty and before it expires.

@johnruben: It is clearly the Hose leaking; as I could see from the deposits in the first picture. Either the hose is loose or you have a leaking container, in both the cases the replacement charge is minimal.

P.S: Clean the power steering container by diesel. It will take away even minimal of deposits. It is usually only 5-10% of oil in a black sooth deposited over the container in your case rest is due to the dirt attracted by oil.

[saildrive]

i had been having this issue with my car for over a week now. called the mechanic and he took 3 days to figure it out.
1) car would stop every now and then (become powerless) had to turn off ignition and start again
2) there was a thud thud sound that kept coming after i drove a few kms

mechanic today calls me and says that sir
a) the ECM meter is gone kaput and will need to replace it (new one costs 16k and second hand cost 10k also the new one will take 3-4 days to arrive. the ECM is not repairable and due to which there is this issue of stop and start

b) the axle and the front two wheels bearings had gone that will cost me 2000 bucks

my question is - should i go for a new ECM or a second hand will do (he says that the waranty is for 6-7 months) am confused as spending so much money during this festive season is a pain in the rear

[mercedised]

Originally Posted by saildrive

i had been having this issue with my car for over a week now. called the mechanic and he took 3 days to figure it out.
1) car would stop every now and then (become powerless) had to turn off ignition and start again
2) there was a thud thud sound that kept coming after i drove a few kms

mechanic today calls me and says that sir
a) the ECM meter is gone kaput and will need to replace it (new one costs 16k and second hand cost 10k also the new one will take 3-4 days to arrive. the ECM is not repairable and due to which there is this issue of stop and start

b) the axle and the front two wheels bearings had gone that will cost me 2000 bucks

my question is - should i go for a new ECM or a second hand will do (he says that the waranty is for 6-7 months) am confused as spending so much money during this festive season is a pain in the rear

If the old ECM costs 10,000 Rs. Then go for a new ECM. I doubt your mechanic, he is taking you for ride. And old ECM should not be more than 5,000 INR maximum. BTW, which model of Indica comes with ECM?

[saildrive]

thanks mercedised

i have told the mechanic to stop the work - he was giving me a speil that the vendor from whom he sources gives genuine parts and new ones are not available easily. he said that the vendor even replaces if anything goes wrong in 6 months time.

just called shetty motors - who said they did not have the part readily available. so what i might do is - just get my axle and other work done and do my Engine Check Signal rectified later.

spending 10000 for a second hand part is way too high. just a query do these parts come with any warranty if they are bought new (if i buy from shetty motors opera house, mumbai that is!) cos the mechanic says that if the new part fails (ECU) - it fails they do not repair the part as it is electronic. do let me know if you can

mine is the indica xeta v2 (1.4 petrol) 2006 model

thanks again for your prompt revert

[greenhorn]

the cost of a new ECU (with software) appears to be in the 14k, but this is an older pricelist
check out the list here http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...pricelist.html

are you absolutely positively sure that the ECU is dead ? a lot of mechanics take you for a ride when often all you need is a sensor adjustment or replacement. Another thing to consider is how much you would trust this particular mech. at least since yours is a xeta, you need a bosch unit which is still available. In case you're looking to keep your car longer than a year, buy a new ECU (if required that is). get a second quote for the ECU and a second look at the car as well

[mercedised]

Originally Posted by saildrive

thanks mercedised

i have told the mechanic to stop the work - he was giving me a speil that the vendor from whom he sources gives genuine parts and new ones are not available easily. he said that the vendor even replaces if anything goes wrong in 6 months time.

just called shetty motors - who said they did not have the part readily available. so what i might do is - just get my axle and other work done and do my Engine Check Signal rectified later.

spending 10000 for a second hand part is way too high. just a query do these parts come with any warranty if they are bought new (if i buy from shetty motors opera house, mumbai that is!) cos the mechanic says that if the new part fails (ECU) - it fails they do not repair the part as it is electronic. do let me know if you can

mine is the indica xeta v2 (1.4 petrol) 2006 model

thanks again for your prompt revert

Try resetting the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes. Otherwise try checking the crank sensor or throttle sensor. There is no warranty for things that you replace outside of TASC. If your car is starting and running well then I don't think that it is a problem with ECM.

[johnruben]

@mercedised, Thanks for your reply, i will have the hose and container checked in prerana during my next service.

@saildrive, how much odo your car has run till now?
isnt ECM failures very rare in the car right ?
your symptom shows battery issues or clogged fuel filters or maybe bad fuel