Team-BHP - The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread
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Well the idle surging and bearning noise issue are separate.
As for 4x4, the hubs had been changed around 10000kms.

As for EGR I will not rule it out. A guy I know told me that EGR is not supposed to open at idle, however due to some defect, it may be slightly open when temparature is cold. This can cause erratic idle.
Infact he insisted that its the EGR because if it was injector related this would happen at all times, not when engine is completely cold.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsk1979 (Post 1308938)
As for EGR I will not rule it out. A guy I know told me that EGR is not supposed to open at idle, however due to some defect, it may be slightly open when temparature is cold. This can cause erratic idle.
Infact he insisted that its the EGR because if it was injector related this would happen at all times, not when engine is completely cold.

Yes, thats a possibility for sure and a minor leak can be diagnosed only by a replacement, a major one would have stalled the engine.

Hi..
I need one clarification on how the odometer works. I gave my vehicle for water pump replacement at Concorde(mysore road)today and the odometer read 8709 KMs. and the trip meter read 605 Kms. unfortunately they recorded only the odometer reading in the job card.

when I went to collect my vehicle the odometer read 8717 but the trip meter read 698 kms. That is they must have run my vehicle for 93 Kms. But their alibi is the odometer reading which still read 8717 Kms. Since they did not note down the odometer reading I did not have any proof.

But I strongly claim that I'm not under any sort of illusion that the trip meter reading was 605 kms. The reason is just a week back I filled tank full of diesel at Shell and only had two trips to Mysore and no where else. So even if you take 150 kms one way I would have done 600 kms and 605 Kms is the realistic figure when I gave my vehicle for service.

My understanding is they must have removed the odometer connection and have run for 90 odd Kms and must have filled in proportionate amount of diesel. So I drove straight to Shell and filled in tank full. Now the clinching factor was for 704 Kms it took 54 lts i.e 13 KMPL which I never achieved till now:Shockked:. With my spirited driving style i never used to get above 11.5KMPL. The recent Mysore run was also no means a sedate driving.

So could can anyone clarify if the odometer and the trip meter are having separate connections or how this strange incident can be explained.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkishore_77 (Post 1313299)
Hi..
I need one clarification on how the odometer works. I gave my vehicle for water pump replacement at Concorde(mysore road)today and the odometer read 8709 KMs. and the trip meter read 605 Kms. unfortunately they recorded only the odometer reading in the job card.

when I went to collect my vehicle the odometer read 8717 but the trip meter read 698 kms. That is they must have run my vehicle for 93 Kms. But their alibi is the odometer reading which still read 8717 Kms. Since they did not note down the odometer reading I did not have any proof.

But I strongly claim that I'm not under any sort of illusion that the trip meter reading was 605 kms. The reason is just a week back I filled tank full of diesel at Shell and only had two trips to Mysore and no where else. So even if you take 150 kms one way I would have done 600 kms and 605 Kms is the realistic figure when I gave my vehicle for service.

My understanding is they must have removed the odometer connection and have run for 90 odd Kms and must have filled in proportionate amount of diesel. So I drove straight to Shell and filled in tank full. Now the clinching factor was for 704 Kms it took 54 lts i.e 13 KMPL which I never achieved till now:Shockked:. With my spirited driving style i never used to get above 11.5KMPL. The recent Mysore run was also no means a sedate driving.

So could can anyone clarify if the odometer and the trip meter are having separate connections or how this strange incident can be explained.

There are two trip meters. Which one did you check ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by smsrini (Post 1313709)
There are two trip meters. Which one did you check ?

Srini...You are spot on.. Yes. I was always referring to trip meter B but someone had changed it to other display. The first thing I did was go down and check. What a relief. It read 623 which was close to what i expected.

I would attribute all these confusion to the coincidence in the mileage logged in trip meter A and B. :Frustrati

Thanks Srini. :)

Hi everyone
I would like to ask some really strange queries which i dint find the entire safari blog
1) Is there any peeling of dashboard skin ie the silver panel in the dashboard of the lx model?:Shockked:
2) Is there any solution for the clank sound which is heard spl while going over humps and potholes am not refering to the arms problem but the sounds appears in the middle portion of the front axil even the tass guys couldnt find a solution
3)And is there anything that the vehicles warranty is void if mobile delvac oil is used instead of castrol.This is what reply I got from the tass guys when i asked for mobile oil. I need to drop the vehicle for the second 30000 km service and am really confused abt the oil :Frustrati

Quote:

Originally Posted by shishir11224 (Post 1314163)
Hi everyone

3)And is there anything that the vehicles warranty is void if mobile delvac oil is used instead of castrol.This is what reply I got from the tass guys when i asked for mobile oil. I need to drop the vehicle for the second 30000 km service and am really confused abt the oil :Frustrati

No. I used mobil Delvac mx for my 7500 Kms service. It just has to meet API CH4 grade and above. Mobil Delvac is API CI grade and is better than CH4.

Quote:

Originally Posted by shishir11224 (Post 1314163)
Hi everyone
I would like to ask some really strange queries which i dint find the entire safari blog
1) Is there any peeling of dashboard skin ie the silver panel in the dashboard of the lx model?:Shockked:
2) Is there any solution for the clank sound which is heard spl while going over humps and potholes am not refering to the arms problem but the sounds appears in the middle portion of the front axil even the tass guys couldnt find a solution
3)And is there anything that the vehicles warranty is void if mobile delvac oil is used instead of castrol.This is what reply I got from the tass guys when i asked for mobile oil. I need to drop the vehicle for the second 30000 km service and am really confused abt the oil :Frustrati

2) check front suspension..tie rods etc.
3) I dont think so as long as its the same specs. Most TASS guys are ***; and it will be profitable for them to sell what they have.

How can I drive my 2.2L without the turbo? I am thinking of reverse engineering now as this is the 3rd time I had to drive with out Turbo ! yah no turbo; well there was no whoosh whoosh sound, no go after 100kmph in any gear, etc.

And EGR works along with the turbo right? Coz, every time the turbo plays hide and seek (the thing works later on), I don't have krr krrr. If I am right, krr krrr if from the EGR . I am also wondering if EGR stops working will turbo effectively work?

Help !:Frustrati

Why do you want to drive without turbo? If turbo is faulty get that replaced, and if the hose pipe keeps coming off, get that changed.
As for EGR, it only mixes exhaust gas with the inlet, but at idle speeds egr is closed, otherwise you will have the idle surging(like mine still does)

I dont want to drive non-turbo!. I was wondering how it happens as if it was hose, it shouldnt work fine at all! I was trying to figure out what can cause it to work so.

Had mentioned about the fuse blowing up 3 times till date, and also that am using 30A fuse now. The technicians were puzzled by this and found no reason why the 25A fuse has to blow, and also why a 30A fuse is to be used. They asked if there's a pattern involved in the blow outs. The first fuse blew at abut 7.3K kms, followed by 2 blow outs between that reading and about 11.5K kms (30A fuse was added from then on). They have put the 25A fuse back in place and asked me to report to them when it blows in future. Seems to me nobody has reported this issue in M'lore, assming in all probability that AC has to overwork in such tropical climate.

Recently I faced this issue when I refilled the nitrogen in all tyres. (Tank was also at FULL) Apprently I always had this doubt that when the front tyre pressure is lower (10to15%) or lower than 32psi this issue occurs (Safari Guru's please throw more light on this) I went back the next day and asked the guy to recheck the tyre pressures and tighten the wheel botls as well, there was a difference front was 29.6psi and rear was about 34psi. I had them filled to 32psi front and 35psi rear and since past 3 days I didnt here the sound.

Also, this sound can be reproduced (Simulated) when you are turning while descending from the road on to the shoulder or where ever you have the front wheels fully turned and are turning over an elevated path or foot path. (Not like a 6 inch foot path but rather a parking pavement to the road where the diffrence may be 3-4 inches.)

The sound is really scary and I dont know if there is a permanent solution to this and if the tyre pressure difference is basically a workaround that I have discovered.

Cheers!

JUDA

Quote:

Originally Posted by shishir11224 (Post 1314163)
Hi everyone
2) Is there any solution for the clank sound which is heard spl while going over humps and potholes am not refering to the arms problem but the sounds appears in the middle portion of the front axil even the tass guys couldnt find a solution

Seems like idler arm issue..Maybe its loose Get it checked.

Thnx

Quote:

Originally Posted by JUDA (Post 1319217)

Also, this sound can be reproduced (Simulated) when you are turning while descending from the road on to the shoulder or where ever you have the front wheels fully turned and are turning over an elevated path or foot path. (Not like a 6 inch foot path but rather a parking pavement to the road where the diffrence may be 3-4 inches.)

The sound is really scary and I dont know if there is a permanent solution to this and if the tyre pressure difference is basically a workaround that I have discovered.

Cheers!

JUDA

The description looks like steering idler adjustment issue.
Go to good TASS and ask to adjust the steering idler nut for equal turning on both sides. And also ask them to check the lower arm nut if it is loose.

But as the issue is only while turning full and going down on uneven surface it can be due to steering idler setting.


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