[ph03n!x]

Originally Posted by ShyamSCrdi

recommend the XM1+ if you are going in for the 14". As for you audio what are you running and what are you going to revamp to ?? PLS. tell me. I look out for quality in music than anything else so would like to know what you are going to be doing.

I am running CPC2s indeed in the 14" the tyres are comfortable but have a lot of tyre noise and they screech a lot. Initially the tyres where very quiet i mean up until it drove for around 10k kms but after that it gets quiet noisy.

Shyam

Thanks for the heads-up on the CPC2! So a new set of alloys coming up for my rocket during tire change

As for ICE, I currently have
Pio Premier FH-P800BT HU
Crunch Audio P1400.4 (87.5 x 4 @ 4ohms) Amp
Illusion Audio EL 6.1 Compos (75W RMS, Front)
Hertz Dieci DS300 Sub (12" 150W RMS)
Lightening Audio B3.65.3 Coax (50W, rear door) (Disconnected now)


What I am upgrading to
Same HU
JL Audio 450/4 (v1 or v2) (150W RMS x 2 - Front Channel, 75 W x 4 - rear channel)
Alpine PDX 1.600 (600W RMS x 1)
DLS UP6i (Front compos, 150W RMS)
Current EL6.1 in the back
Boston Acoustics G5 10" Sub

I have a thread (though not updated all that much) here. I already have the PDX 1.600 amp and Boston G5 sub, and next in line of purchase is the JL amp - will be Aug / Sep before I get everything down from the US. I started off with a $600 budget for upgrades, not I have broken it by miles and bounds!

[krish3]

Nice review.

XM1+ is unbeatable in comfort and silent ride department; at least in 14". But IMO, XM1+ just doesnt suit the CRDi. The engine is too much for these tyres and anything above 120-140 will be a gamble. I can literally feel the tyres are inadequate for long high speed runs. When it gets heated up, it starts losing grip.

CPC2's seems to be a good compromise between the XM1+ and AD07s at 14" range.

I'm also planning to change my XM1+ even though I've run just 13k on them. CPC2's are top of my list as I need a comfortable and less noisy ride.

[undead]

Hey krish - You could also try the Yoko's A drives i am running on my Getz. And mine has crossed 40000 and running around .

[krish3]

I'm not changing XM1+ because they've worn out, in fact they are nowhere near to be being worn out. And A drive is almost similar, but with more noise.

I'm looking for more grip than what a XM1+ can provide.

[ShyamSCrdi]

Hi,
Work done and details...

Labour:
Clutch overhaul - Rs. 1070
Timing Chain replacement - Rs. 2130
Suspension stabilizer link and bush replacement - Rs. 175 + 150

Parts:
Power steering fluid - Rs. 174.43
Rust clean and prevent - Rs. 220.11
Link Assembly Front suspension stabilizer - Rs. 1190.60 * 2
Bush stabilizer bar - Rs. 56.17 * 2
Bearing - clutch release - Rs. 1160.01
Cover assembly - clutch - Rs. 2376.39
Disc assembly - clutch - Rs. 3857.93
Bolt - Rs. 18.79
Tensioner Assembly - Timing chain - Rs. 3289.61 * 2
Lever - Timing chain - Rs. 643.30
Guide - Timing chain - Rs. 1031.79 * 2
Lever - Timing chain - Rs. 682.98
Timing chain - Rs. 2376.30
Timing chain - Rs. 1923.19
Gasket - Liquid engine - Rs. 878.38
Screw - tapping - Rs. 5.86 * 8
Clutch Master cylinder - Replaced under warranty (~Rs. 3500)

Total bill - Rs. 32972.00 (inc. of taxes)

The car seems to be performing as good as new

Regards

[ph03n!x]

Whoopah! That was a major one, especially for a car run only 65k. I remember the Accent CRDi's must have a timing belt replacement around 60k, and the thought the timing chain would last longer (longer than the 80k specified in the manual - though the manual reads belt!). I just calculated the breakup, and the ones for the timing chain comes to ~16,500 - man, gotta prepare for these major services!

[krish3]

as per shyam, though his car's odo is only 65k, the actual reading might be like 74k due to under-reading.

I feel 74k is a good enough mileage to get it replaced as its just 6k less than the prescribed time. Its better to get it done before rather than waiting for a breakdown. But honestly speaking, the cost is just mind-blowing. Other cars with timing chains have a greater mileage before change, but that could be because of the lesser power they might be generating.

[ph03n!x]

Well, lets take the case of my car - the circumferential difference between stock and my upsize (195/55 R15) is 2.1%, upsize being the one with a higher circumference. Hence the speedo would read 2.1% lesser than actual, which means if the speedo reads 100 KMPH, am actually doing 102.1 KMPH. My car has done 38,950 KM on the clock - factoring in the error, I have actually done 39768 KM.

Shyam's rocket runs 196/60 R14 (IIRC), which has 1.11% difference in circumference with stock, the upsize again being the one with higher circumference. If he is driving at 100, the actual speed would be 101.11 - and if the clock says 65,000 KM, he would have done 65,721.5 KM

Check out Tire size calculator if you already haven't.

[kpzen]

^^

Stock size 175/65-14
Shyam Upsized to 195/65-14

Result - Speedometer under reading by 4.5 %

At 65k kms the actual reading should be 67925 kms.

[ph03n!x]

Originally Posted by kpzen

^^

Stock size 175/65-14
Shyam Upsized to 195/65-14

IIRC Shyam went for 195/60 R14 - when he initially change the stock tires as well as the CPC change - not sure if it is running the same now, that's why said the difference is 1.11%.

On a side note, wont a difference of ~5% foul?

[ShyamSCrdi]

Yikes shows how bad i am at my maths :P. Anyway i have always wanted to change the chain along with the clutch so i have no complaints. The car has gotten real smooth and more fun to drive