SRINAGAR TO BAFLIAZ
How did you drive through a hartal in the Kashmir Valley?
The previous day, when we were in the tyre shop, we heard that the next day was a total hartal in the Kashmir Valley because of the Bandipora firings. That meant big trouble, it is virtually impossible to drive in such circumstances, I have heard of instances when our friends have been pelted with stones by miscreants.
So what do we do? I hatched the plan that we leave at first light –
450 am on Jul 28 – so that we get out of the Kashmir Valley (perimeter being Pir ki Gali some 100 kms away) before the rest of the world woke up and started looking out for vehicles to stone & burn.
Even the cocks & crows were sleeping as we drove past empty streets of Pulwana &
Shopian, these are indeed well-populated areas in the Valley. People here are supposed to be pretty pro-Pakistani, if evidence of frequent gun battles & militant activity is to be believed.
Places like Shopian and Pulwana are always in the news for some trouble or the other – did you feel scared driving through dangerous areas?
I have always held that the media exaggerates news, and some places attain notoriety over the years as being hot beds of terrorism, massacres of civilians, army atrocities and so on. Being close to the Pak border meant that these places are particularly prone to infiltration by militants and see highest intensity of violence in the rural hinterland. However, we were surprised to see hardly any military presence and nothing scary other than what you see in any typical Indian village or town.
If one likes to play safe, then perhaps you should keep away.
But why go on this obscure Mughal Road when you could have gone on the regular NH1A highway back to Jammu?
Do you think we will do anything ordinary?
Don’t you see us as “explorers” who love to drive on new roads & discover strange new regions?
You do not feel the pulsating excitement of travelling through such beautiful country side?
This is not even much longer in distance.
Well, to answer your Q, there is nothing to see or do in the various towns were passing by. Remember, Kashmir has been tourist-unfriendly for over 2 decades ever since the onset of insurgency.
Yet the
Mughal Road seems to represent the regaining of normality in Kashmir, if one were to go by the sign boards & the painstaking care with which they appear to have built this road. They have wonderful sign boards all over the place, yet we are the only vehicles & only people on this road. Really ghostly that hardly any one uses this road although it is not much longer than the direct road & road condition is quite good.
What is the state of facilities on the Mughal Road?
Hardly any. I did not see any hotels. No petrol pumps. Nothing for a tourist, except vestiges of a buoyant rural economy. No tourist to be seen. Not even the locals are to be seen travelling anywhere outside their own homes. After leaving Srinagar, there is no petrol pump till Rajouri.
Bad roads?
Roads were fantastic for most part, but for some distance approaching Pir ki Gali, the roads turn into mud. But surface was dry, although I would shudder to go this way if it rains hard, I expect that the mountain sides will simply dissolve into water & blockade the road. Even as I write this, I hear that last week’s heavy rains have resulted in closure of the Mughal Road due to landslides at several points. I am not surprised, Lalu’s photos would have shown you how fragile the environment is, landslides can happen any time.
But roads were quite OK, just that it was firm mud when we went by. But that was only for a short distance after crossing Heerpora Check Post where the road starts climbing.
Looking at all those smooth green slopes, I get the feeling that this region must be receiving heavy snowfall?
You are right. I was telling Lalu that the slopes are so smooth & gentle that this could out-rival Gulmarg & Auli as skiing destinations. And true to my word, we did see a few sign boards announcing that the slopes were great to ski on. The road gets closed down beyond Shopian till after Bafliaz due to heavy snowfall and like all high mountain passes, reopens only in mid-June.
What is the significance of the 3500 mtr high Pir ki Gali?
The highest point on this road, it also marks the dividing line between Kashmir Valley & the Jammu Region, the equivalent to Banihal Pass & Sinthan Top in the central & eastern sides respectively. You can see some lovely rolling views of mountains, perhaps all the way to the Pak border.
There was nothing atop the summit. Except that there was strange-looking bearded man who thumbed us for a lift. But we did not like his looks, never can say if my low-flying Scorpio could get hijacked to Kandahar!!!
Where are the Mughal ghosts?
This was the road the great Mughal Emperors used to ride their horses to the Kashmir Valley from Lahore or Delhi. I am sure they left some ghosts behind, but we were not keen to make their acquaintance. The PWD Dept had thoughtfully identified those places which were resting places for the ancient convoys on their long journey up and down the Punjab Plains. This is probably the only historic highway in India which has so many mementoes – especially Sarais – from the past.
Did you visit the Pak border?
No, that is still far away from Bafliaz which is the first town you reach in the Jammu Region after descending from the Pir ki Gali. At Bafliaz –again not a town with the usual tourist facilities – the road turns away towards the west to the Indo-Pak border town of Poonch (infamous for army-militant battles) & in the south direction is Rajouri & Jammu.