Please note that performance car is not my primary look out except that I have been offered one in my price range.

BHPian Wanderers recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

I sold my 3.2L 4X4 Endeavour in January-24 and ever since have been looking for suitable replacement. While I am open to all options starting from Jeep Compass, Fortuner, X1, XC60 but off late it has come down to three- GLC (petrol) X3(diesel) and discovery sport (petrol)

Discovery Sport

The facelift discovery sport with new dashboard and pivi pro screen looks great but minimalistic. One need to use it to appreciate. They have done the best utilisation of touch and hold function giving multiple options instead of browsing.

Also this car gives the true feeling of SUV with commanding view and off road capabilities including transparent bonnet which is far far superior than Mercedes (it works even at higher speed unlike Mercedes)
At Rs 77.5 lakhs on road, this is very competitively priced with respect to others in the list. Just remember the recent price reduction is on account of slight strip down as we now have SE trim instead of HSE. Also no discount except some exchange or Tata employee referral- Rs 40K

Downside discovery sport suffers from feeling of being too old and badly needing a generation change. Also while it is cheapest of all Land Rover’s, things are pretty expensive during service or extended warranty. So these are the major deterrents and I have put it aside for time being. Also I am very clear- No great discount, no purchase (thanks to Amazon)

Mercedes GLC

The new GLC 300 is fun to drive with great interior and overall well packaged. It certainly drives better than X3 20d (take test drive to believe it) The sound system is mind boggling and class apart in comparison to other two.
What more it comes with attractive discount. Initially the good discount was only on MY23 cars but from April same is also available on MY24 cars.

Downside, the service, accessories and extended warranty are very costly and look wise not exactly a SUV. The seating position is more car like than a SUV. Also I am not great fan of all touch only controls.

BMW X3 20D/M40i

I love Xs, all the way from X1 to X7, so even though X3 is only available in diesel I was willing to take a plunge provided I get good discount. Well there are discounts which makes it cheapest of all three here but not with a great margin to jump for. Also my love for X was put to test as I really did not feel great while driving 20d in comparison to other two. The ride was bumpy and did not manage a good drivers view and car did not look planted to road which was very much in GLC. Overall it was a disappointment.

Then came a twist when the dealer saw that I was not keen on diesel, they offered a X3M40i at a whopping discount, which brings the X3 M40i in range, something I can consider although it was still high as such.

The car is CBU with manufacturing date (as per VIN decoder) May 23 and made in US plant. The car is currently put as display and has done only 22 km on odometer. There is nothing which looks old or bad about the car. As per VIN all the features mentioned in brochure are present. Also this is not a test drive car as I have seen the same as different.

I plan to keep the car for 7-8 years and accordingly invite fellow BHPians for their views and recommendation between GLC and X3 M40i. Any other suggestions also welcome.

Please note that performance car is not my primary look out except that I have been offered one in my price range. Also I will be driving this car to mountains, off beat locations and bad roads but not off road exactly.

Here's what GTO had to say on the matter

I love Xs, all the way from X1 to X7, so even though X3 is only available in diesel I was willing to take a plunge provided I get good discount. Well there are discounts which makes it cheapest of all three here but not with a great margin to jump for. Also my love for X was put to test as I really did not feel great while driving 20d in comparison to other two. The ride was bumpy and did not manage a good drivers view and car did not look planted to road which was very much in GLC. Overall it was a disappointment.

Then came a twist when the dealer saw that I was not keen on diesel, they offered a X3M40i at a whopping discount, which brings the X3 M40i in range, something I can consider although it was still high as such.
The car is CBU with manufacturing date (as per VIN decoder) May 23 and made in US plant. The car is currently put as display and has done only 22 km on odometer. There is nothing which looks old or bad about the car. As per vin all the features mentioned in brochure are present. Also this is not a test drive car as I have seen the same as different.

I plan to keep the car for 7-8 years and accordingly invite fellow BHPians for their views and recommendation between GLC and X3 M40i. Any other suggestions also welcome.

Please note that performance car is not my primary look out except that I have been offered one in my price range. Also I will be driving this car to mountains, off beat locations and bad roads but not off road exactly.

Here's what BHPian Rajjaiswal92 had to say on the matter:

Oh god, you are in for a big disappointment. I have been on a similar boat tried to find a replacement for my 2016 Titanium 3.2 AT but failed miserably.

You cannot expect the true blue SUV behaviour from any of these, none will come even close to it, i happen to own several cars from different luxury brands but none even come close to the pure grunt this ladder on frame SUV provides.

The only SUV which made sense to me was the XC-90 you should seriously consider it.

Here's what BHPian Varun_Hexaguy had to say on the matter:

Why is the GLC even in picture when the X3 M40i is the other car in consideration?

If you can do it, please go ahead and get the X3 M40i already. It is one car that you won’t regret buying. That car plastered a wide smile across my face during the TD that I took quite recently. This car drives better than most crossovers/SUVs sub 1cr on-road. There simply is no contention.

Also, if I may ask, what are the kind of discounts that are being offered on the same?

Here's what BHPian Shreyans_Jain had to say on the matter:

X3 M40i is a very different animal and is not exactly suited to long distance touring in Indian conditions, especially if you like to venture beyond the main highways. Pls evaluate very carefully on the space, practicality and ruggedness aspects. It will be like moving from a truck to a sports car, with the associated advantages as well as compromises. Pls especially consider the large alloys, the low profile tires and the spare tire situation.

I understand your predicament, there is no like for like replacement of the Endy, or even an upgrade of similar attributes unless you are looking to spend well in eight figures. The closest options in a realistic budget are the Kodiaq and Grand Cherokee. The upcoming new Kodiaq is not far away, and can be considered. Kodiaq is the perfect all rounder SUV.

As you have managed to find great deals with BMW, have you scouted for the same at Audi? The Q7 is a fantastic car that still comes with relatively same price tags and also carries additional handsome discounts. This just might be the perfect package you are looking for.

Otherwise, considering your touring requirements, it may well be advisable to compromise a bit on badge value and limit options to the Meridian and the super competent XUV700 AWD top model. Or even the Innova HyCross ZX(O). A lot of Innova sales come from potential luxury car buyers.

Here's what BHPian vb-saan had to say on the matter:

The immediate thought (almost as a no-brainer) would be the X3 M40i, but I said almost because the new X3 is just around the corner. So effectively you will be buying an outgoing generation car. The GLC on the other hand is relatively fresh in the market and is the option I would suggest at this point.

Read BHPian comments for more insights and information.

If launched, the new Ford Endeavour will rival the Toyota Fortuner in the Indian market.

The latest generation of the Ford Endeavour has been spotted in India for the first time, amidst rumours of the Blue Oval’s return to the Indian market.

In the global market, the Endeavour is sold as the Everest. The SUV that was spotted while being transported on a flatbed also has the Everest badge at the rear.

Rumours suggest that Ford might bring the new Endeavour to India as a CBU. The SUV could make use of the rule that allows OEMs to import a limited number of vehicles without homologation.

The Ford Endeavour shares its underpinnings with the Ranger pickup. It is available with a 2.0-litre diesel engine in two states of tune and a 3.0-litre V6 turbo diesel. Transmission options include a 6-speed manual and a 10-speed automatic.

If launched, the new Ford Endeavour will rival the Toyota Fortuner in the Indian market.

Source: Bunny Punia

I had driven up there in the morning to check if they had the tire sensor, and if not, they order for it.

BHPian Rajain recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

Guys

For those around Bangalore here is something I felt I must share.

In one of the recent long drives I got a flat and the roadside puncture guy found a faulty air value (TPMS was getting activated). And the puncture man while fixing the tire broke the tire pressure sensor defunct.

The TPMS kept showing malfunction on the screen and I had to get it fixed. Regular tire shop - Madhus and Tire Empire said cannot fix it and take it to Ford. I have not been to a Ford service centre in more than an year and never in Bangalore. Here is my experience of JSP Ford at Hosur Road today.

I had driven up there in the morning to check if they had the tire sensor, and if not, they order for it. Turns out they not just had it, they were ready to do the job immediately. I met Prathap (service manager). The team at JSP was super. They were confident, they were polite, knew the job - told me half an hour and fixed the stuff within 20 minutes. I was informed that parts are easy, there has been no disruption on parts for Ecosport, Ford Endeavour and Fiesta. For Ikon and Fusion they need 2-3 days and the parts come. This was very very reassuring.

Overall, besides the parts, I can also add that the place was spic and span, the toilets were cleaner than a 5 star hotel, tea coffee and basic snacks were easy, customer lounge had magazines, channel TV, neat clean sofas, and AC working. The service advisor updated me 3-4 times, the cost was within estimate and the job was done within half an hour.

There was spring in the feet of the staff that worked there and the energy everyone had was top of the line. Not once did it look like a workshop of a car company that closed. In fact there was even a Ford Mustang getting serviced there and I was informed that parts of the Mustang is also no issue.

This whole experience really stands out like a Toyota or a Maruti and Hyundai experience.

I would rate an overall service experience at 10 out of 10 at JSP Ford, Hosur Road.

Cheers

Rajain

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

I'll miss the macho looks of my Endeavour, but the Tucson doesn't look too bad.

BHPian debuda recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

I found it quite difficult to select a worthy successor to my Endeavour without breaking the bank. I saw dozens of YouTube videos, read many Team-BHP reviews and test drove several cars such as Jeep Meridian, Jeep Grand Cherokee, Land Rover Discovery, Volvo XC60, Audi Q5 and Hyundai Tucson. After a lot of mental (and emotional) flip flops I finally zeroed in on the Tucson 2.0 diesel AT 4x4 Signature primarily because no other similar car (even cars in a higher segment) gave me a bouquet of features and ticked most of my check boxes at a really attractive price of slightly over ₹4 million on-road. Hyundai’s wide service network was another important factor because I keep driving to all corners of India including some very remote places.

One thing is for sure - Tucson will NOT give me the exact driving feel I get in a heavy, tall and butch ladder-frame SUV like Endeavour. Only the Grand Cherokee came close to it but it's ₹85 lakhs, somewhat underpowered and spares and service costs are high. I don't like Fortuner's ride quality and it offers minimal modern features (I love latest tech like ADAS, 360° camera, ventilated seats, large digital displays, sunroof, built-in navigation, connected technology, etc.) though in terms of reliability and maintenance costs Toyotas are great. Cars like Volvo XC90, Mercedes GLE / GLS, Audi Q7, etc, would certainly delight me but shelling out ₹1.2 crore or more is somewhat daunting. Added issues with these super premium cars are high maintenance costs and very rapid and steep depreciation.

Coming back to the Tucson, I found in it a driving pleasure of a different kind - very peppy, a lighter feel, greater maneuverability, good ride & handling and the assurance of better road-holding in difficult terrain through always-on AWD. I'm sure it will grow on me with time. Hyundai does not have high badge value and I know I won't have much bragging rights after my Endeavour ownership! But the bottom line for me is my personal driving pleasure and delight with features, regardless of what others say. I very well know that Tucson may not even give me good resale value as it has not really caught on in India. But I went ahead and booked the topmost variant of Tucson AWD anyway. Let me share some of the features of this 4th generation Tucson:

• Super silent and refined 2.0 litre diesel engine producing more power and torque than my Endeavour 2.2 AT - 184 BHP and 416 Nm to be precise! Being about 600 kg lighter than my Endeavour, its power-to-weight ratio is way higher. Mated with a great 8-speed automatic transmission it will put a smile on my face every time I step on the gas.
• Always-on intelligent AWD with Hyundai’s proven HTRAC system should get me past all obstacles and terrains I normally encounter during my frequent expeditions to the mountains and remote areas. I never did hard core off-roading and I'm not about to start such activities at age 72.
• Large 235/60 R18 tyres and decent ground clearance should provide the ability to glide over bad roads and craters.
• I'll miss the macho looks of my Endeavour, but the Tucson doesn't look too bad. I liked its front grille, LED DRLs, fancy rear lights, sexy diamond cut alloys and angular body contours. White is my favourite car colour.
• Interiors are very premium and modern looking. 2nd row has huge leg space. Boot space is very good.
• Hyundai is offering 3 yrs warranty + 2 more yrs extended warranty at a nominal cost. They are also throwing in 3 yrs free service!
• Some features I liked : 4 drive modes (normal, sport, eco, smart), 3 AWD modes (mud, sand, snow), electronic stability control, traction control, hill start assist, downhill brake control, both front seat-belt pretensioners, 6 airbags including side and curtain, both front seats power adjustable (with memory) with ventilation & heating, fully digital 10.25" instrument and information cluster in front of the driver which can be customised in multiple ways, another 10.25" HD digital touchscreen (for built-in navigation, Apple CarPlay and various controls), Bose audio system, Hyundai Bluelink connected car technology (one can get info on various car parameters and driving data on smartphone, the car can even be started / locked / unlocked / ventilated remotely with smartphone), over the air updates, different user profiles, panoramic sunroof, autonomous level 2 ADAS with every conceivable feature (such as adaptive cruise control, hands-free lane following, automatic braking to avoid collisions, etc.), 360° camera, blind-spot monitoring, front & rear parking sensors, TPMS which shows all 4 tyre pressures, wireless phone charger, auto dimming IRVM, electric parking brake, auto hold, hands free tailgate, voice commands, etc, etc, etc - the list is endless!

To summarize, I am sacrificing some attributes of a heavy ladder-frame SUV but gaining one hell of a lot more in terms of features and driving pleasure. I never employ a driver and my cars are always self-driven, so the cockpit is the most important place for me. Life is all about change and adjustments and one need not get fixated on any one thing. I like to change my cars every 5 years and obviously look for something better when I buy a new car. I think the overall delight factor of my new Tucson AWD would be more than the Endeavour.

My Tucson is already in transit and should reach the dealership in Kolkata soon. I am eagerly waiting to lay my hands on it.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information

Ford has filed a design patent for the new-gen Endeavour in India.

According to a media report, Ford plans to resume sales in India and spearheading the brand’s return is likely to be the Endeavour.

Ford has filed a design patent for the new-gen Endeavour in India, which has led to speculations about the SUV’s return to the Indian market. It made its global debut in 2022 and is currently sold in Thailand as the Everest.

Reports suggest that Ford plans to assemble the Endeavour at its Chennai plant after the company cancelled its plans to sell the factory to the JSW Group last month. That being said, Ford might also opt to import the initial lot of SUVs as CBUs, while it prepares its assembly line for production. If all goes to plan, we might see the Endeavour go on sale in 2025.

The Ford Endeavour shares its underpinnings with the Ranger pickup. It features a muscular-looking front end with a set of LED headlights and C-shaped LED daytime running lights.

Inside, the SUV gets a 12-inch touchscreen infotainment system and a 12.4-inch digital instrument cluster. It is also equipped with several advanced safety aids, including Pre-Collision Assist, Intersection Assist, lane keep assist, adaptive cruise control and hands-free parking, among others.

The current-gen Ford Endeavour is offered with a 2.0-litre diesel engine in two states of tune and a 3.0-litre V6 turbo diesel. Transmission options include a 6-speed manual and a 10-speed automatic.

Source: Autocar India

The nearest Ford service centre is 60km Mehsana and 90km Ahmedabad.

BHPian sachin2612 recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

Good morning to the entire community and Happy Diwali.

My vehicle is 2019 3.2 facelift version. It has been driven for 75,000 kms with out any issue.

Due to vacation i have came to my hometown which is 90 kms away from Ahmedabad. I have not driven the car for 2 days untill yestarday when i move the car i saw oil spillage under the bonnet. This is the first time i am experiencing something like this from my car. The car is not showing any error though.

I have 2 important questions. The nearest Ford service centre is 60km Mehsana and 90km Ahmedabad. Is it safe to drive the car for that long distance ?

And the second i will still stay till Wednesday at my hometown due to festivals so is there any way to stop the leakage temporary will be help of local garage ( though i dont like the idea of local mechanics to make any changes in engine)

Any suggestions and advice would be thankful.

Attaching the photos for more info:

BHPian DEVINA4WD replied:

In my 2016 , 3.2 Endeavour 4WD, I faced a similar issue of oil leakage, though the amount of oil leaking was less compared to yours.

I took it to Ford Service and on visually checking it was diagnosed by them as a Rear Main Seal leak. The engine oil level had not dropped much. However, they said that with time, the amount of oil leaking can increase with the seal becoming weaker. So I asked them to change the Rear Main Seal. There are many videos on YouTube regarding these type of leakages.

The Service Center had to backorder the Rear Main Seal as well Bolts for the Transmission. The whole transmission had to be taken apart to access the Rear Main Seal. Special tools are necessary for this job, a local mechanic may not have the required tools. I meanwhile asked them to replace the Transmission Fluid, to which they said they will not as it's just 4 years old, and only 11K driven.

It took a week for the parts to arrive. They sent me pics of the Transmission Uninstalled and the location of the Rear Main Seal. The parts cost was about 2K to 3K, but the Labour cost was about 9K. Seeing the amount of work and special equipment required as well the Endeavour being hanging on the Car Bay for 10 days with Transmission out, the cost was justified.

The work was done properly, I took the old bolts and Rear Main seal from them. Since then I often look below for oil leaks and haven't found any.

The mechanic at Ford had advised me not to keep the 3.2 engine on idle for more than 5min, at a stretch. It was COVID period then (2020) and instead of driving it around we would keep it on idle for 15 to 20 minutes, this could have caused the oil leak. There are many reasons as per the internet to cause the issue.

So far I have no further leakage. I do every month open the Bonnet and keep checking the engine oil level just to be assured since then.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

A Kolkata based dealer and a Chandigarh based dealer offered 18L.

BHPian debuda recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

After using my beloved Ford Endeavour 2.2 AT Titanium (April 2018) for 5 ½ years I decided to sell it in order to buy a new car. As my friends know, I like to buy a new car every 5 years but the Endeavour continued to give me so much joy and exhilaration every time I sat behind its steering wheel that it took me many months to take the final selling decision.

I drove the Endeavour 63,500 km before I sold it. It was the best car I ever owned and it gave me 100% reliable service. Some highlights of my ownership experience are as follows :

1) During my 5 ½ years / 63,500 km of ownership it never happened even once that the car stopped working and I was stranded on the road and had to call for assistance. So all the money I paid for Roadside Assistance was a sheer waste!

2) I sold the car with the original brake pads, brake discs, and battery! This is probably something of a record.

3) Every component of the Endeavour is so well-designed and robust that the failure rate is almost zero. I experienced only the following problems :
a) The IRVM had to be replaced (under warranty) as the auto-dimming function failed.
b) A very minor seepage (quite different from ‘leakage’ as not even one drop of oil fell on the ground) was observed at the transmission output shaft oil seal during the 40,000 km service. Though Ford Service said it was negligible and nothing to worry about, I insisted on a fix. Ford Service promptly obtained a new oil seal and replaced it under warranty. The Endeavour was used for 25,000 km after this and the oil seal remains bone dry.
c) There were some issues with the inbuilt navigation system but they were resolved under warranty.
d) Delamination and swelling of wheel lug nuts is a known problem in many Ford cars. These lug nuts have a steel core covered with a shiny 'cap' made of some other metal/alloy for cosmetic purposes. Due to an inherent design/manufacturing defect, the bonding between the inner core and outer cap is not very good and they tend to get delaminated. This is often caused by the use of pneumatic wrenches which apply vibratory torque, something akin to hammering. Once even the slightest delamination takes place, a small gap is created between the core and the cap. Subsequently, water/moisture enters the gap and corrosion starts. Corrosion is a chemical process and the presence of dissimilar metals which are far apart in the Electrochemical Series is the ideal situation for corrosion. The products of corrosion cause swelling of the outer 'cap' because it is relatively thin and soft. Once the cap swells up, the wheel wrench can't fit the lug nut. Furthermore, when delamination is complete, there is relative movement between the core and cap and even when a lug nut is tight it appears loose!

I first experienced this lug nut swelling problem when my Endeavour was just a few months old. Ford Service initially refused to change the lug nuts under warranty claiming that ‘nuts and bolts’ were not covered. But I took up the matter with Ford India and got all 24 lug nuts replaced under warranty. Thereafter during every service, I insisted that wheel lug nuts should be loosened/tightened by hand and not by pneumatic wrench. This minimized further delamination but I did have to change a few lug nuts later.
All in all, as you will see from above, the defects that arose were quite minor and the cost of repairs under warranty was negligible compared to the handsome amounts I paid for an extended warranty up to 6th year. I am sure that Endeavour will continue to provide reliable service to the new owner for many more years.

Before I wind up this post, let me share my selling experience which was quite interesting. After I spread the word about my intention to sell Endeavour through social media and ads in OLX and Team-BHP, I received several inquiries. About 10 individuals, mostly used car dealers, test-drove and thoroughly inspected my car. All were impressed and found my lovingly maintained Endeavour in excellent condition. I also got my car evaluated by Cars24. But all offers fell short of my expectations (which was around 21L initially). I held on, as I was in no hurry to sell.

After a few days some of the dealers (including Cars24) whose offers I had rejected started calling me again and raising their offers. A Kolkata-based dealer and a Chandigarh-based dealer offered 18L. Incidentally, the demand for pre-owned Endeavours is highest in Punjab, Haryana, and NCR as the hot-blooded youngsters there love to show off their Fortuners and Endeavours. I figured that the fair market value of my car is around 20L because the dealers would obviously sell the car to the final buyer after adding a good profit margin on top of transportation and RTO costs for registration in a different state.

Then one day a gentleman from Jamshedpur called and said he saw my ad on Team-BHP and he was really keen to buy as he had read many of my posts on Team-BHP and was sure that my car would be excellent. I too preferred to deal with a gentleman who follows Team BHP and also happens to be from Jampot where my car is registered. The deal was finalised even without physically inspecting the car and I offered to drive the car to Jampot.

Upon reaching Jampot on 24 Nov 23 after my last 300 km tango with my Endeavour, the buyer greeted my wife with a bouquet of flowers. He test-drove and inspected the car and was fully satisfied. He transferred the money and we went to RTO and completed the formalities of name transfer. Everything was completed in a couple of hours!

Don’t all car lovers wish for such deals with fellow car lovers instead of haggling with dealers? Well, I have been thrice lucky, and every time due to the Team-BHP connection. My previous car, an XUV-5oo, was bought by a business school professor from Ranchi who knew everything about my XUV because he had read every word penned by me on my ownership thread on Team-BHP. Incidentally, he messaged me recently saying he was now interested in buying my Endeavour, but the deal had already been finalized.

Another previous car of mine, a Maruti Swift, was bought by a Tata Steel engineer, also through Team-BHP. Team-BHP is undoubtedly the topmost Indian forum for automobile enthusiasts. One has to undergo screening to become a member. This ensures high standards of posts and discussions. My association with Team BHP has been fulfilling on several levels.

My beloved Endeavour will remain in my heart forever. Here are some random pics of the Endeavour clicked by me over the years :

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

Tourism booms the economy, but it should not be at the cost of the environment. Many of the Kashmir's popular tourist spots are currently grappling with overcrowding and experiencing a surge in litter due to the sheer volume of tourists.

BHPian ruzbehxyz recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

This travelogue is dedicated to the Indian Armed Forces deployed in the Union territories of Jammu and Kashmir, & Ladakh. Special thanks to the Indian Army who hosted us at many places and for providing us special permission to drive through some areas normally out of bound for civilians. We are truly indebted to them.

A photograph taken by an astronaut aboard the International Space Station.

This photograph shows one of the few places on Earth where an international boundary can be seen at night. The winding border between India & Pakistan is lit by security lights that have a distinct orange tone.

Source

Come 1960’s, the Indian Film industry played a major role in boosting tourism in Kashmir. A spate of Bollywood movies, like Junglee (1961), Kashmir ki Kali (1964), Jaanwar (1965), Jab Jab Phool Khile (1965), Bobby (1973), Kabhie Kabhie (1975), Aap ki Kasam (1974), Noorie (1979), Silsila (1981) and Betaab (1983) captured the true essence of Kashmir. These movies were shot all around Kashmir valley mainly at Srinagar, Pahalgam, Gulmarg, Sonamarg, Dal Lake, Shalimar Gardens, Betaab valley etc., which led to Kashmir being a favourite among Indian travelers. In fact, Betaab valley was named after the 1983 Sunny Deol starrer Betaab which was shot in the Hajan valley. Another instant is the Gulmarg hut in which the famous song 'Hum tum ek kamray main baand...’ of Rishi Kapoor's debut film ‘Bobby’ was shot, which became famous as the 'Bobby Hut'.

Kashmir was also the favored honeymoon destination for many young couples, expressing their love in the same way Shammi Kapoor romanced his heroines on the houseboats and shikaras of Dal Lake or in the lush green forests of the valley. This was boom time for tourism in Kashmir. In 1987, according to a government survey, 7 lakh tourists visited Kashmir. Three years later, the number fell to just 6,000.

In 1988-89, insurgency and later militancy & terrorism erupted in the Kashmir Valley. Thanks to the efforts of our neighbouring country. Then the Indian Armed Forces moved in to counter the insurgency, resulting in a cross-border and internal conflict which has claimed the lives of thousands of locals and military personnel. With the Armed Forces entering the valley, eventually turned the land, often called “Heaven on earth” into the world’s most militarised zone, with a ratio of one Indian soldier to every ten civilians.

Today as we speak about tourism in Kashmir, only few places come to our mind - Srinagar, Gulmarg, Sonmarg and Pahalgam. However there's lot more to Kashmir. Ditching the regular tourist spots, we headed into areas which are sensitive and near the Line of Control. These places were not explored mainly because of terrorism and insurgency across the valley and hence kept out of bounds for civilians. There are many places which will leave you mesmerised. Each place has its own distinct charm and each valley has its own beauty.

There’s much more to these heavenly locations, which has lost its sheen in the labyrinth of politics, terrorism and social unrest. Still in these testing times, the nature has survived and retained its natural exquisiteness.

Date of travel: 06th Oct. to 19th Oct. 2023.

Route:- Delhi - Panipat - Kurukshetra - Ambala - Ludhiana - Jalandhar - Pathankot - Jammu - Akhnoor - Bhimber Gali - Poonch - Chakan da baug (LoC) - Mughal road - Peer ki Gali - Shopian - Pulwama - Tangmarg - Uri - Kaman bridge (LoC) - Baramulla - Reshawari - Bangus valley - Teepee - Sadhna top - Teetwal - Ragini sector - Pharkiyan Gali - Keran (LoC) - Kupwara - Zamindar Khan Gali - Machil valley - Dudi - Kalaroos - Lolab valley - Kupwara bypass - Wular lake (western side) - Bandipora - Razdan pass - Gurez valley - Dawar - Niru - Chakwali - Bandipora - Wular lake (eastern side) - Srinagar - Ramban - Jammu - Pathankot - Delhi.

Index: -

• Introduction
• The formation of the LoC and the division of Jammu & Kashmir
• Akhnoor
• Poonch area & Chakan da bagh on the LoC
• Mughal road & Peer ki gali
• Uri & Kaman bridge on the LoC
• Bangus valley
• Tut Mari Gali / TMG
• Sadhna Pass, Karnah valley & Teetwal on the LoC
• Pharkiyan Gali & Keran village on the LoC
• Zamindar Gali & Machil valley
• Kalaroos caves & Lolab valley
• Razdaan Pass
• Gurez & Tulail valley
• The Permit system
• Conclusion

Highlights:-

1. Apart from the regular online permits, we were assisted by the Indian Army for permissions of various places.

2. We stayed at various Army mess' in some areas, names of which are not given here.

3. We have not taken photos of any Army installations etc. Some photos were taken with permission.

4. These areas were notorious for terrorists and militants at one point of time. Hence security is a big issue.

5. These are the four major places visited right on the LoC - Chakan Da Bagh, Kaman bridge, Teetwal and Keran.

6. For each valley you need to cross a pass - Eg. Sadhna top / NC pass for Teetwal, Pharkiyan Gali for Keran, Zamindar Gali for Machil, Razdan top for Gurez.

7. Pass is locally called "Gali" in Kashmir. The Army and locals use shortcuts for the passes. eg. NC pass for Sadhna pass, P Gali for Pharkiyan Gali, Z Gali for Zamindar Gali.

8. We made this trip in October which is Autumn. The greenary had slowly turned golden and it was truly a wonderful sight to see.

9. This area is still raw and lot of infrastructure is coming up for tourism.

The formation of the LoC and the division of Jammu & Kashmir:

This is a very vast topic and out of the scope of discussion here. Hence I will explain in brief with some diagrams.

Source: Indian Defence review.

When British India gained Independence in 1947, two separate nations were created - India & Pakistan. However Maharaja Hari Singh, the ruler of the princely state of Jammu & Kashmir decided to remain Independent. In October the same year, the Maharaja faced a rebellion from the locals in Poonch, in favour of Pakistan. Taking advantage of this, Pakistan started arming the rebels and began invading Kashmir under Code name 'Operation Gulmarg'. The Maharaja then appealed to the Indian government to send troops and sought desperate help. It was Lord Mountbatten who said to the Indian rulers that it was improper for the Indians to send their troops to Kashmir, until such time that the Maharaja accedes to India. This was readily agreed by the then PM Jawaharlal Nehru and his ministers. Finally the Maharaja signed the Instrument of Accession on 26th Oct. 1947. The very next day, an Infantry Battalion was flown to Srinagar using many civilian and Air Force aircrafts, as in those days the Jammu- Srinagar road was just a track.

Then on 31st Dec. 1947, India approached the UN Security council to resolve the Kashmir issue. The Security Council established a UN Commission (United Nations Commission for India and Pakistan — UNCIP). After negotiations with the two sides, the Commission passed a resolution in August 1948. The resolution dealt with ceasefire, terms for truce, and procedures for negotiation regarding the plebiscite. Both the countries accepted the resolution and a ceasefire was achieved on 31 December 1948. Finally the Karachi Agreement was signed in 1949 by the military representatives of both countries, thus establishing a Cease-Fire Line (CFL), most of which became the LoC in 1972.

In Aug. 1965, Pakistan launched 'Operation Gibraltar' which eventually led to the 2nd Indo-Pak war. This war caused thousands of casualties on both sides and witnessed the largest engagement of armored vehicles and the largest tank battle since World War II. Hostilities between the two countries ended after a ceasefire was declared through UNSC Resolution following a diplomatic intervention by the Soviet Union and the United States.

The 1971 war which was the 3rd Indo-Pak War was an armed conflict between India and Pakistan that occurred during the Bangladesh Liberation War in East Pakistan from 3 December 1971 to 16 December 1971. During this war, Pakistan opened the Western front in Kashmir. Some areas were taken by India. The ceasefire subsequently led to the Shimla agreement in 1972. The Line of control (LoC) came into existence from the Shimla agreement signed between India and Pakistan on 02nd July 1972. Both nations agreed to rename the ceasefire line as the "Line of Control" and pledged to respect it without prejudice to their respective positions. Hence the LoC is a military control line — a line which does not constitute a legally recognized international boundary, but serves as the de facto border. Apart from minor details, the line is roughly the same as the original 1949 cease-fire line.

Though it is conveniently called a line, on the ground it breaks all the laws of linearity. It follows no regular principles, such as, watershed in the mountains, defined natural features in the plains, or river edges. The meandering, and at places militarily illogical, LoC moves mindlessly on mountain spurs with a few high and low posts held by opposing sides on a single mountain. It is not uncommon to find an Indian post in a depression surrounded by Pakistani ones on a high ground and vice-versa. Some posts are as close as 100 metres of each other. Apart from causing geographical divisions, such as, mountains, farmlands and rivers, the LoC has divided families, with one half living across the line which has known no control ever since it came into being.

Given the unbridled nature of the LoC, those who are bound by duty to keep vigil at the treacherous forward posts prefer to keep their heads down. Any uncalculated move has the potential of getting punished by the enemy fire, especially on ranges where some posts are so close to one another that on a good day the foes get into a friendly banter.

Source

The Division of the erstwhile state of Jammu & Kashmir:

Source: Created by the US Central Intelligence Agency and hosted by the University of Texas-Austin Perry-Castañeda Library Map Collection.

The former princely state of Jammu & Kashmir is divided into various parts, all of which are rightfully claimed by India.

1. Union territories of 'Jammu and Kashmir' and 'Ladakh': These territories were under India since Independence in 1947. Formerly the Union territories were called Jammu & Kashmir state till 2019, prior to abrogation of Article 370.

2. PoK: India calls the territory occupied by Pakistan as PoK or Pakistan occupied Kashmir, while Pakistan calls it as Azad Kashmir. They even have a separate flag for it. This area borders Pakistan's Punjab area to the South and Kyber Pakhtunwala province to the west. PoK also includes some border areas of old Kashmir, mostly centered around the Neelam valley. To the East, PoK is separated by the LoC with India. The capital of PoK is Muzaffarabad while Mirpur is the largest city.

3. Gilgit-Baltistan: Formerly called as Northern Areas, remained an amorphous entity for many decades. This area is under Pakistan. It borders PoK to the south, Khyber Pakhtunwala to the west, Wakhan corridor of Afghanistan to the north, Xinjiang region of Tibet to the east and Ladakh to the South-east. This area was taken by Pakistan in 1947-48. After the Karachi agreement of 1949, this area came under direct control of Pakistan. However the region did not find mention in the Constitution of Pakistan. Gilgit is the capital of this region, while Skardu is the largest city.

4. Trans-Karakoram tract or Shaksgam tract: This area was transferred to China by Pakistan in 1963 according to the agreement between the two countries. Although the Shaksgam tract was never under the control of Pakistan since 1947, in the 1963 Agreement, Pakistan recognized Chinese sovereignty over the Shaksgam tract, while China recognized Pakistani sovereignty over the Gilgit-Baltistan area, and a border based on actual ground positions was recognized as the international border by China and Pakistan.

5. Siachen glacier area: The northernmost point of the Line of Control is known as NJ9842, beyond which lies the Siachen Glacier, which became a bone of contention in 1984. India holds favourable positions in the glacier. The conflict led to a new line which is called AGPL (Actual Ground Position Line). Siachen is the highest battlefield in the most world, with Bana top being the highest outpost at 20,500 feet. The 1949 Karachi Agreement and 1972 Simla Agreement did not clearly mention who controlled the glacier, merely stating that the cease-fire Line terminated at NJ9842. UN officials presumed there would be no dispute between India and Pakistan over such a cold and barren region.

6. Aksai-Chin area: Aksai Chin area is largely a vast high-altitude desert bordering Ladakh. In the southwest, mountains up to 7,000 m. extending southeast from the Depsang Plains form the de facto border or LAC (Line of Actual Control) between Aksai Chin and Ladakh. Despite this region being nearly uninhabitable and having no resources, it remains strategically important for China as it connects Tibet and Xinjiang. In 1951-57, China built a road connecting Xinjiang and western Tibet, of which 179 km. ran south of the Johnson Line through the Aksai-Chin region claimed by India. Aksai-Chin was easily accessible to the Chinese but was more difficult for the Indians to reach due to steep mountains. The Indians did not learn of the existence of the road until 1957, which was confirmed when the road was shown in Chinese maps published in 1958. The construction of this highway was one of the triggers for the Sino-Indian War of 1962.

Out of the total area of Jammu and Kashmir (2,22,236 sq. km), about 35 per cent (78,114 sq. km) is under illegal occupation by Pakistan, and about 2 per cent (5,180 sq. km) has been handed over by it to China, which is already in illegal occupation of an additional 17 per cent in the Aksai-Chin area (37,555 sq. km). The total area of PoK excluding Gilgit-Baltistan is about 13,297 sq. km. This implies that India controls about 46 per cent (1.01 lakh sq. km) of the erstwhile state of J&K. Out of this area, about 26 per cent forms part of the Jammu division, 16 per cent the Kashmir division and the remaining 58 per cent the Ladakh-Kargil division. But the proportional distribution of the population in these divisions is 43 per cent in Jammu, 55 per cent in Kashmir and 2 per cent in Ladakh. India controls 46 per cent of the land area and 61 per cent of its population. Pakistan controls 35 per cent of the land while China controls the remaining 19 per cent including the Shaksgam Valley area.

Source: General N.C. Vij, The Kashmir Conundrum. The Quest for Peace in a Troubled Land, 2021, p.8 &9.

Akhnoor:

On Day 1 of the trip, we drove from Delhi to Akhnoor in J&K. We were 7 of us in two SUV's - Ford Endeavour 3.2L 4x4 and Toyoya Hilux 4x4.

At the meet point in Delhi.

The group.

The entry to J&K.

View from our room at JKTDC, Akhnoor.

Sightseeing in Akhnoor includes the Akhnoor fort.

Source: Daily Excelsior.

On the banks of the Chenab river stands the Akhnoor fort in the town of the same name.

ASI has declared it as a protected site. Excavations by the Archaeological Survey of India have excavated items and pottery belonging to the Harappan period and established the fact that Akhnoor was one of the last bastions of the Indus Valley civilization.

The town was named Akhnoor by Mughal Emperor Jahangir who once visited the area and the fort on the advice of a saint when his eyes got infected while returning from Kashmir. Amazingly, Jahangir’s eyes were cured by the fresh air of the town, blowing over the river Chenab. Hence he named the town Ankhon-ka-noor (The light of the eyes) and since the place came to be known as Akhnoor.

Tha latest construction of the Fort was started by Mian Tegh Singh on the pattern of Mughal forts and completed by his successor Raja Alum Singh in the early 19th century AD and later it was repaired by Maharaja Gulab Singh also in 19th century AD. The Raj Tilak ceremony of founder of J&K State-Maharaja Gulab Singh-was held here on June 16, 1822. On a raised platform of Jiapota below the Fort, Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab performed the coronation ceremony and enthroned Gulab Singh-the Maharaja of Jammu.

Further reading

Continue reading BHPian ruzbehxyz's travelogue for more insights and information.

Seats are firm and comfortable. A bit more under thigh support for the driver seat would have been better.

BHPian logout recently shared this with other enthusiasts

A long term wish of owning a pick up came true finally with "The Red" coming home.

Wanted to replace my Endeavour and looked at Kodiaq, Fortuner and Jeep Meridian.

Kodiaq of course is the best of the lot for our needs but sales support was not good from Gurudev and Kun. I have already owned a Yeti and had a hard time with service and with sales experience itself being not great I had drop the idea.

Had a test drive of the Fortuner and the Hilux on the same day, back to back and found that Fortuner has a feel of driving a car, Hilux felt well built and heavy which was similar to LC200 which I had driven some time back. I'm not talking about the suspension but the overall build, appearance and ruggedness.

Meridian was very bland and uninspiring, it was comfortable in the 80-100km/hr and above that the engine felt like it was straining extremely. I don't know if the test drive vehicle was like that because the AC was also very bad. It was an easy decision to drop it.

So Hilux was the one left and though I was glad that I finally can buy a pickup, I had to convince my family due to the ride quality. But it was a big resounding NO from them.

After many days of discussions we decided to retain the Endeavour and buy Hilux as the 2nd option. So basically it is like Hilux is my personal vehicle

Initial impressions (comparisons are with my Endeavour 3.2AT):

• Very easy to drive in the city except for the turning radius.
• Engine is quieter.
• The rear doors need to be closed with a bit more force.
• AC is good in this climate, don't know how it will be in summer.
• Fuel efficiency is good. City: 9-10kmpl normal mode, Highway:12-13kmpl normal mode.
• Seats are firm and comfortable. A bit more under thigh support for the driver seat would have been better. Right arm rest for the driver is not comfortable for me, it is a bit retracted.
• One glove box is cooled.
• Touchscreen is upright which is not convenient while driving, a bit slanted position would have been better.
• Worst windshield wipers I have ever seen, a must change.
• Huge difference in ride quality between the front & the rear. As my family says, it's like sitting in a car in the front and sitting in a truck in the rear. The front is also bumpy but the rear is worse. The family joke is that NHAI should check the quality of newly laid roads by taking a drive in a Hilux, one can feel even tiny imperfections.
• Looking for a reasonable priced tonneau cover is a chore, Toyota's own is very expensive.
• Absence of TPMS is a bummer.

Took a short drive to Cuddapah, around 700kms up & down.

I find that in the highway, above 80kmph, the ride quality becomes smooth. Overtaking is a breeze.

Small potholes & patches have to be taken at around 40kmph while in Endeavour I used to go at 60kmph.

In the narrow roads we have to be conscious about the length.

In the city it is amazing that there is no lag when we start from the signal, in Endeavour there is a lag and by the time we accelerate an autowallah would have come from the side to the front.

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I just re-read what I wrote and realized that I haven't really anything bad to say about the Jimny.

BHPian SUVolens recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

A critical look at the Jimny driving experience

Day 4 was a designated break-day at Leh. A few of the travelers were first-timers to Ladakh and deserved a sight-seeing around Leh, one of us had to break away from the trip and return for a personal engagement and most importantly, the three back-to-back drives deserved a breather in between, before we headed into rarified air.

I feel, this would be a good opportunity for me to get into a more critical description of the Jimny, having covered approximately 900 kms over flat lands and hills. Truth be told, the sections after Leh were so involving, a totally objective review may not be possible, so let me do it while the others discover Leh.

Let's start with luggage capacity:

I have never really wanted to fix a roof-top carrier as a personal preference, so whatever luggage we had for three, had to go into the boot. Our last major overland was done in our (now sold) Endeavour, and with the third row folded flat luggage capacity was nothing short of a rugby flied. We are light packers anyway and luggage for three was restricted to two backpacks (40+20 litres), a shoe bag, a carton of emergency kit and the 20L jerry can.
When I swung open the boot door with all of these gathered on the floor, the task looked daunting. But as you can note from the photo in the first post, they all went in peachy and then sat snug under the cargo net stretched between the wall hooks. The luggage never rose above the rear sightline, so I'm guessing that a fourth person and his luggage would also have gone in at a push. So, luggage capacity is adequate if you are a frugal traveler.

From the driving seat

There have been more than enough written on this, but this is a purely personal angle. I'm tall and not very heavily built (not skinny either). I prefer my seat close to the steering for an elbows-bent position and my palms are almost always at 10-to-2 on the wheel. I find this allows me all-day driving capability without any major discomfort.

The Jimny has a few design problems for the above setup. First, no wheel reach adjustment - this means at my preferred position, my legs will get splayed out on either side. The right knee doesn't complain, but the left one taps into the center console. This isn't as bad as some cars can get, and after a while, I could ignore it easily. The seats themselves (front) aren't the widest, either for the back or for the bottom. But the fabric and the cushioning must be really well-engineered. All-day driving didn't produce any fatigue, there were no periodic calls from the body to get out and stretch and since the car doesn't exactly produce massive G-force around corners, bolstering works just fine. The abnormally tall headrest isn't the best for shorter passengers and they may request a neck-bolstering pillow.

The ICE and it's lack of physical controls is the next bugbear. At the very least, a nice round volume dial would've been an improvement over the touch-screen or steering toggle, which aren't the most intuitive or responsive. But while on the steering, I'd have to say that the control stalks on either side are a masterclass in simplicity and function. I put a lot of importance in how cars are designed for ergonomics, and it is clear how far apart a Suzuki stands from a lot of our homegrown brands and many foreign ones as well. They are so easy to activate even with your ring finger or pinky, without an mm of movement of your palms on the wheel. Extremely well damped, so lane-change indications are never a hit/miss. The large, accessible hazard warning button, the superbly sized and damped A/C controls (manual in the Zeta, mind it), everything shouts an attention to detail that belies the initial impression. It's suddenly apparent that the large touchscreen ICE was a much later addition and hence it falls afoul of the general ergos.

Appreciating the Jimny on open highways, is an acquired art. I got that much from my initial days. Now, a good 2k kms into the car, the engine and gearbox seems to be working out their kinks as we speed northbound at 100 kmph. The shift is no longer as notchy as when new. It isn't buttery..more like baked cheesecake. The engine runs at 3000 RPM or a smidge below and isn't loud at all. You don't even need the music or a loud conversation to try and mask it. And the ride is sheer comfort, both back and front, until you inattentively hit an unruly patch and the rear might step out just a bit. I guess here's where the damped steering and the slow old world system come into play. The car is easy to bring back into line and never does the wheel wrench at your hands.

When the climbs began after Udhampur, a few newer facets emerged. I have no direct recent comparison other than the Endeavour on these roads, so I'll use that as a template. The contrast couldn't be more stark - barge-like extremities to the little tugboat here. Twice the power output and more than thrice the torque from a turbo diesel to boot. 6 speed Auto, 5-link rear suspension, IFS, full-time 4WD...you get the picture. The Endeavour would ferry all on-board in complete bliss. If you wanted to, you could simply tilt back and sleep through the entire journey (and I've had my fellow-travelers subject me to that irritation before). Not so the Jimny.

This one wants you and your passengers in the 'here and now'. It's like being at a football match and not the opera. You can't just tip the shift into one cog or the other and think it'll chug its way up like a powerful diesel. And you'll not rest easy behind a smoky truck because you know there simply isn't enough room or opportunity to pass it till it allows you to. No Sir. From inside the narrow Suzuki, you're always scanning the gaps and the road 50m ahead. There's always a gap and there's always a cog to take it. Intent is the name of the game!

You know what - I just re-read what I wrote and realized that I haven't really anything bad to say about the Jimny. Sorry. It's just that I hadn't had anything to criticise up till Leh. But it wasn't all hunky-dory all the way. Things were about to change..

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