Needless to say, just like any other purchase, be prepared to walk away if something does not feel right. You would do this a few times before you hit the bullseye.

BHPian hothatchaway recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

I was on the lookout for a used car recently and did some reading up on the subject to come up with a guide. Sharing it.

Identify your need

First things first, identify your needs ie size, performance ease of ownership and your budget. If it is 3 lakhs then do not quote more than 2.75 if you are talking to a dealer. Try to keep a buffer for immediate after purchase repairs and do overs. For a Japanese hatch, this should not exceed 25-30k (including tires) if you have done your evaluation well. For sedans especially the temperamental European ones, this could be upto 10% of a car when bought new. The car may be available at a mouthwatering price but spares will not come at a discount. This is especially true for lux models.

Unless you are hung up on a particular make/model, do not be constrained by body type/make/model. You may want a sedan but if you are looking for a daily drive and are a family of three, a well kept hatch may serve you better. Try to ensure that the car has at least 4 years left before registration expires. That way, even if you trade it in after 2 years, you will still have decent resale. I did not consider diesel options. I was wary of costly repairs if my evaluation went wrong and was wary of an impending ban on diesel cars. Cars are more expensive down south than elsewhere so bear that in mind. The Japanese makes are more expensive than others for reliability and easy availability of spares. So if you know a good garage and are confident that you can pick up a ride in decent shape, you can consider the Fiats and Skodas which have bad resale. They are not bad cars and not everybody has a bad experience provided you know a good independent garage. The money you can save while buying one will help when you spruce up your ride. I almost picked up a used Linea Tjet at a mouthwatering price. The trims needed some work but the car was mechanically sound and drove like a dream. But fate willed otherwise.

Scouting for a deal

Unless you have a good source who can sniff out deals, you will sift through the usual suspects ie FB marketplace, OLX et al. Most of the options I found were just hustlers who posted cars at inflated prices on behalf of the actual seller and talking to these chaps are a waste of time for the most part. You will have to be patient. The belief is that its always better to buy from a direct seller but that is not always the case in my opinion. You can avoid unrealistic quotes which come from the emotional attachment of ones pride and joy by dealing with someone who earns his bread by plying this trade. Of course, it is on the buyer to do his due diligence. In my experience, the actual dealers (not the time pass hustlers) will inflate the intended sale price by 15% and will immediately reduce that the moment he senses that the buyer is genuine. They also have an urgency to move inventory.

So once you have zeroed in on options which seem to fit your need, you could do the following preliminary checks solely basis the information included in the classified ad -

Number of kms on the Odo (either extremes are red flags, I prefer a car which has done 75k in 5 years than just 15. Cars are meant to run and are often in ship shape when they do)

Number of owners (for every additional owner, you could try to haggle the price down by at least 10%)

Insurance validity - To me, a car with valid insurance indicates its roadworthiness. The copy of the current insurance reveals valuable clues like its IDV (great for a baseline to start negotiations for non popular models) and the NCB % which may indicate if any claims were made recently. Renewal requires reinspection and no RTO process can happen with a lapsed insurance. In fact, you cannot even do a legal test drive!

State of registration - Unless you are well hooked up with RTOs, avoid buying lets say a MH registered car in Hyd. The bargain offered is for a reason

Traffic Offences - If the ad reveals the registration number, check online if any challans are pending. In Telengana for eg, the challan also carries a photo of the car which will reveal the current exterior condition. Classified ads often carry images from the car's better days in the past.

The call

Once you have identified options worth pursuing, its time to make the first call. I tried getting as many details as possible at this stage as I did not want to run across town through mad traffic running after every red herring. This is what I tried verifying during the call.

Owner or poser? For individual listings, this was my opening question, the hustlers would usually get filtered out at this stage if you probe further.

Year and month of manufacture. Some sellers mention Dec 2010 cars as 2011 registered

Both keys available? Remember that in the case of theft, the insurer will ask for both keys. This may not be a deal breaker if the car is a decade old but remember to factor this in when its time to negotiate the final price.

Validate facts - Insurance validity if not mentioned, try and get a copy if its a dealer as the RC could be dated. When was the last service done and any major repairs. Ask if the vehicle is stationery and for how long. Always better to get a car which is running as thats what they are meant to do.

If you are after a particular model, like the VRS or the Tjet, research for common issues. So on the call you could check if the alternator or the mounts are still good.

Availability of original documents, especially the RC. Check if the car has a loan running as that would add a step to the final documentation

Reiterate the quoted price and see the reaction. Some sellers (especially dealers) may revise immediately by 10-15%

Schedule a visit asap if everything checks out. You have to move fast as good deals won't wait for anyone.

Visit and test drive

There are videos on YT and I found the series of videos on buying a used car by ChrisFix to be informative. This is what I followed

Visit during the day and in sunny weather - This is self explanatory and minor scratches and scuffs don't show up when the car is wet.

Walk around the car and get a good eyeful of it. A bad exterior may mean a badly kept car. though not always.

Check the windscreen, window and rear glass. If they do not bear the manufacturer logo on the corner then they have been replaced. You will have to find out why.

Check the condition of the tires and date of manufacture (1512 means 15th week of 2012) I preferred at least the front tires to be of identical make and manufacture. That indicates regular replacement of equipment. They are also clues to the genuine miles the car has done (a 6 year old car with 30K on the odo may not have needed new tires a couple of years back)

Check the bottom edges and under the beading of all 4 doors. That is the area where rusting usually turns up. If you find cars in coastal areas with some age and without rust, consider it to be a great starting point

This is the time to verify common issues which plague the particular make/model if you have done some homework. Like rusting issues for Jap cars or AC/electricals for certain others.

Pop the hood and check for any body lines that seem to be bent. That may indicate a shunt. Next, check the fluids and the belts for any wear. Then request for the car to be cranked while you stand next to the engine bay. Check for abnormal vibes and whining sounds. Check for leaks once the engine has idled enough to reach its operating temperature. If there is one, it will show up once the system is running and under pressure.

If the battery. tires and the suspension have at least another 2 years of life left, then that is some $$$ saved at least immediately. Check the interiors, they offer clues on how the car has been driven and how much. Check the boot under the spare if your city has experienced flooding recently.

Start the test drive. Do have the dealer/owner with you when you do that. Ease the car out and see how she feels. I would turn the audio off to listen closely for anything unusual. Drive slowly over potholes and listen to the sounds the suspension makes. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock at low speeds. Turn on the AC/CC after the engine has warmed up. Do all buttons incl the power windows work as intended? See if you can include stretches where the car can stretch her legs. Is the engine smooth or is there hesitation? Does she pull to any one side upon acceleration or braking?

Sealing the deal

If should have a good sense by this time if you have been able to put the car through her paces. While some would suggest that you get the service history vetted by the Auth. SS, not all cars which have seen more than just a few years have a complete record. That does not necessarily mean that they lacked care. Try to take a friend or family who are a little less passionate about the whole exercise can remain more objective. I trusted the wife with that. I have nothing much to add about the price negotiation as it is no different from any other big purchase you would make. Depending on your gut feel, you may hold back 15-20k if any work is promised before delivery or for ownership transfer documentation to be completed but don't do that as a point on your checklist. If you have a trusted mechanic, you could have him accompany you.

Needless to say, just like any other purchase, be prepared to walk away if something does not feel right. You would do this a few times before you hit the bullseye.

I am not including ownership transfer documentation as there are many threads on TBHP which chronicles the points very well. Do watch out if there is a loan running and ensure that the seller closes that and gets the NOC from the bank. In case you are exploring any out of state option, just research the process well.

Read BHPian comments for more insights and information.

EVs are most efficient between 50-80 km/h. If you're doing highway runs, don't expect anything more than 7 km/kWh at triple-digit speeds.

BHPian carmayogi recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

It's mid-2022 and EVs are all the buzz. Globally, vehicles with this type of powertrain are selling like hotcakes. Finding an EV without a waiting list stretching months is unlikely.

Before we get into the nitty-gritty, note that an EV is actually a BEV, a Battery Electric Vehicle. Be cautious of anyone who includes a Plug-in hybrid as an EV. These vehicles are neither here nor there and all major European countries have stopped supporting their sales with incentives.

EV? kWh? kW? Watt? What???

Learning about the EV world means learning new terms, but these aren't as confusing as they seem.

EV - Battery electric vehicle, featuring a large lithium-ion (usually) battery, one or more motors and inverters.

kWh - A kilowatt hour is a unit of electricity. Think of it as litres, kilograms or gallons in the fossil fuel world. A Tesla Model 3 or Y share the same battery options between 55 kWh and 79 kWh useable. Note the word useable - it's because batteries always have a buffer to protect them. The 79 kWh pack mentioned here has 82 kWh gross capacity. Some manufacturers put larger or smaller buffers depending on their engineering decisions.

kW - A kilowatt is a unit of power. This is similar to bhp and has already been used in the EU for decades. A 150 bhp car is also a 110 kW car. Note that almost all EVs have ridiculous power figures and are fast. Electric motors allow this flexibility. All the world's high-speed trains are electric, after all. Does this mean that one day, our beloved team-bhp might have to become team-kW?

SOC - State of charge. Your battery charge in percentage.

ICE - Good old Internal Combustion Engine. With climate change, it seems to be that ICE is melting the ice.

Range & Efficiency

As EVs become a mature tech, we're seeing improvements in range & charging speeds. In a variety of operating conditions, an efficient EV would do between 7-10 km per kWh. Efficient EVs include all Tesla models and, for the Indian context, the Tata Nexon. Generally, EVs that are converted from ICE platforms are not that efficient, so it's a good job by Tata to achieve this. By the calculation of 7-10km, a Model 3 Long Range should do 500-700 km on a charge. There's a BIG caveat here. EVs are most efficient between 50-80 km/h. If you're doing highway runs, don't expect anything more than 7 km/kWh at triple-digit speeds.

How much range do you need?

Probably, not as much as you think. Humans tend to need bathroom breaks & food when travelling long distances by road. In my two round trips from Mumbai to Bengaluru, nearly exactly 1000km, I always stopped thrice, each way. By this simple example, I really only needed 333 km per charge but assuming a safety margin probably a car with >450 km range would be sufficient. This is a far cry from the demands of people unwilling to change who say they want 700km or 1000km because their ICE car can do it. The reality is, that not many of us can physically go so far. Here in the US, pretty much all the major highway routes have chargers located in food/rest stops. The idea is - drive, eat/toilet (while charging), drive, toilet (while charging) - rinse & repeat.

Another important consideration is the use case of the car. If this is your home's second car or if you do not ever take road trips, then practically any EV is enough for you. When we discuss charging below, it'll become clear why. A car roaming around Delhi or Chennai is unlikely to ever use more than ~100km on a single run.

Charging

There are two types of charging - Home or slow AC charging or Fast DC charging. AC charging means on a domestic plug essentially. This is perfect for overnight charging. DC fast charging is a bit more complicated because 'fast' chargers could have a peak output of anywhere between 50 kW & 350 kW. More on this in a bit.

For home/overnight charging, if you use a 3-pin plug-in India with an 8 amp limit, you can expect approx 1.8 kW of charging power. Depending on the efficiency of your EV, that's about 9-18 km of range per hour because 1.8 kW charged for an hour results in 1.8 kWh in the battery, very simple to understand. If you use a higher capacity 'fat' 3-pin plug as we see on bigger air conditioners, you could do about 3.6 kW which would double the speed and half your charging time. For daily city use, let's say 100 km, you only need 11 hours of charging in a relatively inefficient EV. 11 hours sounds like a lot, but if you come home at 7 pm and leave at 9 am the next day, that's 14 hours! Cars are parked a lot over their lifetimes. The key is to have access to a plug where it's parked. This is something for apartment buildings, office parking lots, public lots, malls etc to consider. AC charging is also gentle on the battery and helps maintain a long life for the cells.

For DC fast charging, every car has a charging curve. Batteries charge the fastest at low SOC. This is the same as any rechargeable battery device. Our cell phones all charge pretty quickly from 10% to 80% and slowly thereafter. A Tesla Model 3 will charge at up to 250 kW (!!!) but just for a couple of minutes when the battery is below 30%. The key thing here is time to 80% or 90% so you can continue your trip. For proper, fast charging EVs like the Teslas, Hyundai's Ioniq 5, Kia EV 6, and Porsches & Mercs, this means 25-40 minutes. For those on long road trips, planning a stop to coincide with a food break means, in reality, not really waiting for the car to be ready. On several forums here in the US, you will find owners 'complaining' that the car is ready before they're ready to continue. DC charging all the time will degrade the battery a bit more. However, worry not, there are several examples of EVs with >300,000 km on their battery packs that still have 80-90% of their original range intact. You'd struggle to find a 300k km ICE car that does not need a major engine job.

For charging networks, there is one clear leader, Tesla. Tesla has over 35,000 supercharger stations globally. If you navigate using Google maps built-in to the car, it will tell you where you need to stop for a charge, how much you need to charge and how many spots are available in real-time. All charging is plug & charge, so you stick the plug in and go away. The car will bill your credit card at the end of the session. This is the gold standard which will slowly be copied. For other brands, you need to rely on third-party websites to pre-calculate your trip and some guesswork on your consumption & range.

Other networks of note are Electrify America here in the US & Ionity in Europe.

Also note that most battery chemistries are best used between 10% & 80% SOC, particularly NMC & NCA chemistries. These batteries don't like being charged to 100% or drained to 0%. You can still do that, but do it while the car is in use. Do not park with a dead or full battery for several hours or days. This will lead to quicker battery degradation. Iron-based battery chemistries, commonly known as LFP batteries are less sensitive, but these batteries tend to be heavier and work for lower-midrange cars or stationary energy storage.

Energy use

The reason EVs are being championed so hard is their energy efficiency. Between the power plant, transmission, charging & use of energy, the round trip efficiency is between 75-90%. In the US, we have a rating known as the miles-per-gallon equivalent. Think of it as km/l equivalent. The most efficient EVs here are rated at 130-140 Mpge compared to 50 for the best ICE car. The actual quantity of energy being carried around in a long-range EV is approx 9-12 litres of fuel. 9-12 litres can take you 500-700 km. Mind-blowing! This is also the reason why an EV running off coal or natural gas power is still significantly cleaner than a fossil car. Furthermore, if the grid gets cleaner over the life of the car, the car automatically gets cleaner, something impossible in an ICE platform. Where possible, EVs can be coupled with solar, say if your office parking lot has a solar canopy. In this case, you can drive off the sun. Science fiction much?

Is an EV good for you?

In most cases, yes. Unless you're a hard-core road tripper, an EV will do just fine. These cars are more fun to drive with their zippy instant response, satisfying in stop-go traffic with regen braking & silent 'idling' and, most importantly, are virtually maintenance-free. There are threads, even here on team-bhp, of owners who, after 3 yrs and 50k km had to change the air conditioner filter and wiper blades only, apart from tyre rotation & maintenance. In the long run, EVs will be a dagger to the heart of the dealer network. There's simply not much they can charge us for. Dealers will have to end up being body shops with small diagnostic teams for any mechanical issues.

Costly EVs

EVs are very expensive, still. However, a close analysis of Tesla's financials shows that they have gone from a loss-making company to making over 30% gross margin on their cars. Toyota makes just 18% in comparison. Tesla is using a lack of supply to keep prices high. This bodes well for the future when we will see price reductions from production efficiency, scale & supply chain improvements. We're already seeing a slew of Chinese makes selling long-range EVs at less than $30,000 - some even less than $20,000 in their domestic markets. For India, a price range between Rs 10 lakh to Rs 25 lakh would be the sweet spot. Currently, the American, European & Korean brands all start above that. Time will be our friend with EV pricing but is there time available for us to clean up our cities?

Our favourite brands

This is a bit of prediction time but be prepared for some famous automotive names to either be in trouble or go bankrupt altogether. The EV revolution is similar to, although slower than, the mobile phone revolution. Today, there isn't a Panasonic phone (remember their ubiquitous cordless phones?) or a Nokia to buy. The same will happen with a bunch of slower-moving car companies. For now, the signs look good for VW group, Hyundai-Kia & Ford among those that we know well. The Japanese brands are all behind the curve. Expect some pain, some bloodshed and a lot of consolidation in the next 5 years.

Some qualifying points

1. I mention Tesla a lot. They're the market leader with ~70% share in the US and have led the revolution with excellent cars & excellent charging infrastructure. The Tesla Model Y is the world's best-selling car by dollar value already and might overtake the significantly cheaper Corolla in pure unit numbers this year! Globally!
2. There will be edge use cases where today's EVs aren't suitable. Don't let that deter you. If it works for you, do it!
3. In day-to-day driving, you will not miss the noise, trust me. The smooth, silent progress of an EV through traffic is relaxing and stress relieving.
4. EVs are not likely to catch fire. With the data currently available, an ICE car is 10x more likely to catch fire. There are a lot of high-profile news stories - ignore them. The data is overwhelming. EV fires, when they do happen, also tend to be slower to start. You can get out and get safe. Not necessarily the case if a few litres of fossil ignite immediately.
5. While better than ICE cars, EVs aren't completely environmentally friendly. If you can use public transport, cycling or walking, you'd be doing a whole lot more for the planet and for your health as well. Delhi Metro folk, I'm talking to you
6. As always, when considering a car, real owners and real opinions matter. A shout out to all the obsessively detail-oriented members here at team-bhp that make this the place for real auto information.

Here's what BHPian soarersc300 had to say on the matter:

Excellent comprehensive post

Just wanted to add a bit to the part about battery chemistry. LFPs are now found in half of Teslas manufactured last quarter and will over a period of time replace other Li ion chemestry options.

The thing is with LFP the usable range is the same as an actual range. Whereas in other types the usable range is about 60% of the actual range (20 to 80). Usability here is both in terms of the practicality of time needed during charging pit stops (you charge till 80 and drive off, which makes more sense time-wise) and also in terms of battery degradation.

So a 300 km range LFP BEV is almost the same as 500 km range BEV using NMC or NCA.

Some of the other advantages of LFP are:

1. Longer life (almost 10x charging cycles)
2. Stable at higher temperatures (helps in India)
3. Less prone to catch fire in event of an accident
4. Environment-friendly to manufacture
5. Raw materials are more readily available

Here's what BHPian ajayc123 had to say on the matter:

That's very insightful. Power generation using turbines, etc is happening at near best efficiency at most times, whereas ICE energy efficiency varies a lot during the ICE operation due to varying rpm's ( especially the conventional otto cycle-based ICEs), and hybrid ICE efficiency (Atkinson based) would be somewhere in between. So makes perfect sense for the green warriors. I am sold.

And yes solar is off the sun, which is an infinite source of energy for the foreseeable future.

If I think of it, the last century was an oil economy, whereas the current century could turn out to be a solar economy. Regions blessed with abundant sunshine could be generating surplus power and gradually reduce the dependence on polluting fossil fuels. Countries with oil and gas reserves could take a backseat. It may sound like fiction, but the next wave of colonization (not the British way, but the corporate way) could revolve around solar. Hint: Africa.

Yes, we could breathe fresher air.

Here's what BHPian enj0y_ride had to say on the matter:

Thank you. Very nice write-up. One point which will slow the adoption is that most urban populations who live in apartments do not have access to charging infrastructure ( I mean the slow overnight chargers ).

Even in the organisation where I work, they stopped providing charging facilities in the parking area. The reason is they are not able to give free access as the EV count increases. Since it's an SEZ, they can't charge employees either.

Here's what BHPian Lokesh Soni had to say on the matter:

Nice writeup !!

Interesting fact: A bit more than 100 years back (~ the 1910s), EVs were sold more than ICE vehicles. But then the provision/convenience of refuelling the fuel in seconds led to ICE overtaking EVs (main reason). Battery technology was too poor back then, so we had put our full bandwidth into exploring ICE technologies. Motor technology has not changed significantly in 100 years, they were as good as they are now.

Now after 100 years batteries' R&D is mature, still, it is the battery which is the major focal point in EV R&D.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

It's a good idea to take three test drives, with the third one being of prime focus.

BHPian Poitive recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

It is a good idea to take three types of test drives. One like an everyday drive; like how you’d usually drive the vehicle on its daily runs. Another one with all the users of the vehicle (typically family) to see if all are comfortable for their purposes, and to note the behaviour of the car with that load. One gets into thoughtful and intuitive details of various aspects, as an enthusiast might. The prime focus here is on the third type – to note the driving characteristics and the details, along with some other finer points. T-Bhpians might find some points too basic, however, this is written considering the forum has a large non-member reader base.

Driving Related - I

A) Road Selection

Surfaces

Ideally, choose a mix of different surfaces. Smooth roads, pothole-ridden parts, broken roads including ones often seen in cities, with a layer or two from the top is broken. Also include different types of speed breakers in your path. If you can find a patch that allows mid-speed driving and has the road rising and then falling, it helps in determining the suspension a bit better. If in turn, could be even better provided you can confidently drive suitably on it.

Speeds

One should, of course, try the vehicle at different speeds. From lowish speeds of 10-25kmph to mid-speed drives to a highway run if it is possible. Most cities also have parts where the speed limits are higher, so try to include those. Also, try out a busy section for bumper to bumper traffic for a bit.

Same roads if possible

Ideally, call the vehicles to your place to be able to experience the same roads across test drives of different cars. In case that is not possible, try to go to a part of town which has different relevant brand showrooms close by, to be able to experience the same roads.

Hills, special purpose

If you are taking on the hills choose uphill, downhill, bends, and the different surfaces one might have; especially at the entrance of properties or smaller roads leading to them. Also, consider any special purpose needs you have, check on such surfaces if possible.

B) Checks – Ride, Handling etc.

Ride quality should be checked at different speeds and on different types of roads as above. Ride quality might change amply with speed, as noticed in a recent TD of the Mahindra XUV700 described here. Ride comfort should also be checked both in the front and back seats. It too might differ a fair bit as noticed on a TD of the Hector here. Also, check the third row if relevant.

Check for the control and composure you feel from the car at different speeds on different surfaces. Also how it feels while swerving at different speeds. Also during turns on the aforementioned roads surfaces. Different cars being tried on the same patches of the road will give a better comparison than them being driven on random roads. Also, note how the car behaves while accelerating and braking for a sense of stability. Experienced drivers might also use this to judge weight distribution between wheels, and use that to better control the car (beyond the scope of this).

VERY light braking on moderate turns also gives a bit of an idea of vehicle feel. This is ONLY for experienced drivers and is to be done very responsibly. Going wrong on this could be disastrous, so do NOT try it if you are not confident. It should only be done if you have done it several times on your daily ride in the same road conditions.

One should also check for body roll, both in terms of ride comfort on different rows, and also for the sense of control one feels. It is especially important for those who expect to drive a lot in the hills; even more so if one is prone to being carsick.

Also, check for how quickly the car changes direction and whether it feels bulky or agile while driving. A light steering can mask the effect of a heavy vehicle, which can be considered a plus or a minus. Plus for many comfort-driven users, and a minus for someone who wants better feedback from the car for enthusiastic driving. Steering feel at such times also helps manage the car well (more on this below).

If you have been able to find a road where it rises and then falls as mentioned before, see how connected the tyres feel when the car rises, and how the feels while it is dropping to lower ground and the suspension would be stressed. Experienced drivers might be able to try this on roads that are curved or on gentle turns, to check the suspension characteristics better. Again, this should be done with a lot of caution.

Cars often peak in their characteristics at certain speed and RPM ranges. It differs between cars. In some, the difference might be ample and significantly felt, if looked out for. While driving at a certain speed might give a rough idea of how it might behave at different speeds, it might not be reliable. A bit on this in the In-Sync, Agility etc. section here.

Eventually, one is really looking at comfort in the seat and good control and composure of the car in different situations.

C) Steering feel

Steering feel is often largely on comfort or on feel. Some are soft at slow speeds and weight up at higher speeds but provide limited steering feel/feedback. This is typical of EPS (Electric Power Steering). While EPS allows for a lot of control in how it is configured, in most cases designed to be soft, and is popular with those seeking convenience. For those looking for a better sense of connection with the car and road, and HPS (Hydraulic Power Steering) would often be better. It may often be a bit hard even at low/parking speeds. One feels the resistance the tyres feel more directly on the steering, so if you’re moving the tyres on the road at a near stand-still, the tyres are facing resistance from the road and you’ll feel it in the steering. A lot also depends on how they are designed. A well worked out HPS is a joy for many an enthusiast. Some EPS systems do quite well. Eg Jeep Compass here. On some steering setups (it actually goes beyond just the steering), one is able to amply feel the road surface the tyres are interacting with. While this leads to an even better connection with the vehicle, it might be rather uncomfortable for many for daily use. It is really a matter of personal preference.

While judging the steering feel, do factor in what you have been used to – and EPS or an HPS. If an EPS, you are likely to find HPS too heavy, but often one might get used to it over time and appreciate what it offers if one really enjoys the connect and driving experience. If you’ve been used to an HPS, you might want to dismiss an EPS too easily as the feedback/feel might feel too less and limited. As one uses it, one is likely to become a bit more sensitive, and they feel might not feel as lacking (though still remain limited in scope).

An interesting thread on HPS here.

Check how fast and precisely the car responds to steering inputs (eg driving confidently and safely between two obstacles). This would be a combination of steering design, suspension design, chassis rigidity, weight distribution etc. Some cars feel more agile than others. Usually, a heavier car on a soft suspension will feel a lot less agile than a light one on a harder suspension and a rigid chassis. Low cars are inherently better placed to optimise this.

Also, note how much you need to turn the steering for the car to turn a certain amount. It is usually not an issue in modern cars; was a bigger factor in non-power-steering cars. Also, check for the size of the steering wheel and if it is comfortable for you; also if it touches your legs in your natural sitting position. This should only really be an issue for tall drivers and on variants without much seat height adjustment.

D) Brakes at different speeds

Like all else, do this responsibly, especially taking care of traffic behind you. Be careful of the surface of the road. Any oil spills etc can make it dangerous. Bear in mind that the kind of road surface you are on will also have a bearing on the results.

While judging brakes, check how far down the pedal needs to be pressed for the brakes to engage. Also how rapidly they engage (bite).

A good setup will also give you some feedback and you would feel the brake progressing in its intensity. It helps in braking suitably when the vehicle in front of you brakes hard, and you need to break in a way to avoid being read-ended.

Check how stable the car feels while you brake. Check this on different surfaces if possible. Also, see if the front of the vehicle goes down a lot (pitches) and makes occupants uncomfortable. If too much, it also affects vehicle stability, especially if it is an emergency brake at a turn; furthermore in a high vehicle (crossover/SUV).

Of course, see how much distance it takes for a car to slow down and stop. This would again vary based on the kind of surface the car is being driven on.

Really experienced drivers might try beyond in different conditions. Would not like to list it here. Ones who are would know what to do. Ones who aren’t, should not try.

Continue reading BHPian Poitive's guide on test drives for more information, insights & comments.

Uber has updated its community guidelines, which specify what the drivers and riders are banned from doing. Failure to abide by these guidelines can see the user or the driver permanently banned from using the App. Users who are banned or suspended cannot use the Uber App as well as the Uber Eats App.

Riders are not allowed to damage the car, damage driver's or other riders' property, intentionally spill food or drink, smoke, vomit due to excessive alcohol consumption, have any physical contact with the driver or other riders and use inappropriate or abusive language or gestures. Unwanted contact with the driver or other passengers after the trip and breaking the local law while using Uber could also lead to a permanent ban.

Drivers are expected to uphold the quality of driving and are expected to be courteous, professional as well as drive safely. Their cancellation rate should be low, while their acceptance rate should be high. Drivers are also not allowed any physical contact with the riders while unwanted contact with riders after the trip is over and use of inappropriate/abusive language and gestures would get them banned for good. Further, they should not break the local laws and are expected to give accurate information (while joining Uber) and are not allowed anonymous pickups like street hails.

Additionally, drivers and riders are not allowed to carry firearms, use alcohol or drugs during the trip, discriminate against drivers or other riders, threaten the safety of drivers or riders, or commit fraud against Uber. Drivers and riders can also lose access to Uber if their average star rating falls below a minimum rating. The average rating will be taken from the last 500 trips.