[lambuhere1]

Originally Posted by nripin

I've beeen using local bangladesh battery in my car they have been well maintained with RainWater top ups every month and two years gone no problems at all

Their prices start from 1000 bucks lol

Never knew that Bangladesh is in BLR, Just Kidding

[rider60]

Originally Posted by BHAGWAN

SP1700

Product Family: Batteries

Stinger was the first to bring you the Dry Cell Battery for Car Audio! And we have continued to offer the most powerful, compact and reliable car audio batteries available, anywhere! Utilizing advanced battery technology, Power2’s were created with the car audio enthusiast in mind. Offering staggering high current capability, superior fast recharge rate, and true deep cycle operation, this “Dry Cell” battery allows complete discharge with no negative effects. Corrosion free, zero maintenance design that allows for custom installation inside the vehicle or engine compartment; the versatility of the Power2 allows it to be used as a secondary deep cycle battery or primary engine start power source.

POWER2 Battery Dimensions: 6.75” H x 13” W x 6.5” D (Add 5/8” to height for battery post)
Black powder finish protective steel case

SPECIFICATIONS:
Internal resistance: 3.5mohm
5 Second Cranking: 1700A
Short circuit current: 3500A
Weight: 58.5lbs
Temperature range: -40C to + 60C

Constant current discharge in amps to 10 volts:
CCA rating: 875
Ah rating: 72Ah
30 min.: 103
5 hr: 13.2
20hr.(C/20): 3.6

Stinger Electronics :: Where It's Loud

This is the option - problem is the price !!!
Cannot import is direct - have to buy from dealer - weight will kill you...

i could not find a single dealer for these batteries i was looking at the SP1500D for my accent crdi, any help on the where abouts of the dealer in India is well appreciated.

STINGER

this is the linky to the battery i was giving a thought to.

[DerAlte]

Guys, there is a separate thread for batteries, right?

[BHAGWAN]

Originally Posted by rider60

i could not find a single dealer for these batteries i was looking at the SP1500D for my accent crdi, any help on the where abouts of the dealer in India is well appreciated.

STINGER

this is the linky to the battery i was giving a thought to.

This is sold in India by PTC.

Good Battery - Go for it !!

[ketchup]

Thank you Technocrat for moving my post the the right location & for the edit.

*sigh* I wish someone could tell me a word or two on how 8" / 10" / 12" subs compare. I've searched the threads, but haven't found an answer.

I have JBL GTO 607c & 937 in an NHC, would like to complement it with a sub.

My installer (Sprocket Hyderabad) is pushing me to put a Soomoku Active Sub. Says its vfm and good quality "Saar, 99% of the people who tried it bought it, its that good". I did locate a thread dedicated to Soomoku, but that was nearly 2 years old... in that some senior BHPians liked it but the Gurus didn't consider it vfm. So, I ask now is Soomoku any better these days? If not, what is a good vfm active sub / sub+monoblock.

Thanks,
Giri

[rider60]

Originally Posted by ketchup

Thank you Technocrat for moving my post the the right location & for the edit.

*sigh* I wish someone could tell me a word or two on how 8" / 10" / 12" subs compare. I've searched the threads, but haven't found an answer.

I have JBL GTO 607c & 937 in an NHC, would like to complement it with a sub.

My installer (Sprocket Hyderabad) is pushing me to put a Soomoku Active Sub. Says its vfm and good quality "Saar, 99% of the people who tried it bought it, its that good". I did locate a thread dedicated to Soomoku, but that was nearly 2 years old... in that some senior BHPians liked it but the Gurus didn't consider it vfm. So, I ask now is Soomoku any better these days? If not, what is a good vfm active sub / sub+monoblock.

Thanks,
Giri

dont buy soomoku furiousspinx already has a basstube of the same make ask him for a review and there are many a places with good installers and products now!

I dont recommend the sprocket here any more, he had good installers and now they just have left the shop, and the shop keeper dint stand by his words with a few bhpians here, the spinxy and maverick236 so we dont recommend him.

if you want a good sounding setup with a sub then might i suggest the JBL cs1204 or pioneer TSW-307 (single voice coil sub) in a sealed or ported box with an amp upgrade for better sound!

you can either get a better 4-channel or get a 4-channel and a mono!

if its only the 4-channel upgrade then go for GT5-A604 you can use it for front components and bridge the other two channels for the sub!

or you get the same amp use it for four speakers and get the GT5-A3001 mono for the sub!

either of the set ups will be good, the current sony amp will not be powerful enough to drive a sub for the right punch!

hope this helps, for further queries PM me pal.

[navin]

Originally Posted by ketchup

*sigh* I wish someone could tell me a word or two on how 8" / 10" / 12" subs compare.i

I dont this question will ever have a clear answer. You'd have to specify the exact subs to get a clear answer.

[rider60]

Originally Posted by navin

I dont this question will ever have a clear answer. You'd have to specify the exact subs to get a clear answer.

precisely, there can be various permutation and combination of setups in that manner!

there are amps to choose from with different power ratings and impedances and so are the subs.

different type of installs give different kinds of music and amount of sound produced also differs!

[Magma]

guys. can you help with a couple doubts

please explain (navinbhai i wudnt go nuts if you came out with all the in depth explanations! hehe)

1. how a two channel amp which is rated 75*2 converts to 200-225rms when bridged
(when logically 75+75=150).Also why in different amps this gain is different
e.g some 2channel amps (60*2 rms) advertise 200rms when bridged and others advertise 180rms why this difference between manufacturers even though their per channel rms value is the same.

2. i have come across 1 amp 100*2rms @4ohms which claims to give out a whopping 400rms @ 4ohms when bridged (however they dont specify whether that value is peak or not) is that possible
Hifonics TXi 4008 (txi4008) , Car Amplifiers, 2-Channel Amps - Sonic Electronix#

3. sub A has specifications - 85db @1volt and sub B has a specification 91db @2.83 volts
How would one compare these subs in this case

4. Is there a thumb rule to know(or expect) if sub A (rated 60-250rms) or sub B rated (50-150rms) would play better/louder/tighter etc if both are fed with the same power 180rms -(assuming all other factors same )

[greenhorn]

Let me see if I can reduce navinji's work

Originally Posted by Magma

1. how a two channel amp which is rated 75*2 converts to 200-225rms when bridged
(when logically 75+75=150).Also why in different amps this gain is different
e.g some 2channel amps (60*2 rms) advertise 200rms when bridged and others advertise 180rms why this difference between manufacturers even though their per channel rms value is the same.

When you bridge amps , you're doubling the voltage across the speaker, not the power. and since the power is proportional to the square of the voltage ( P=V²/R) , it ideally becomes 4 times, but is usually lesser , depending on the amps internal resistance/current capacity and other factors

2. i have come across 1 amp 100*2rms @4ohms which claims to give out a whopping 400rms @ 4ohms when bridged (however they dont specify whether that value is peak or not) is that possible
Hifonics TXi 4008 (txi4008) , Car Amplifiers, 2-Channel Amps - Sonic Electronix#

That's equal to the the theoretical limit. I imagine they might have taken a few liberties with the measurement to get the perfect 4x scaling(or just measured one , and calculated the other as being 4x or 1/4th the other)

3. sub A has specifications - 85db @1volt and sub B has a specification 91db @2.83 volts
How would one compare these subs in this case

dB is given by 20 log (V1/V2)
since the voltage for sub B is 2.83V, the ratio is 2.83, and 20 log (2.83) = 9dB. subtracting that from sub B , you get 82 dB at 1Volt

4. Is there a thumb rule to know(or expect) if sub A (rated 60-250rms) or sub B rated (50-150rms) would play better/louder/tighter etc if both are fed with the same power 180rms -(assuming all other factors same )

no idea. I feel that sensitivity would help with the louder part. better and tighter being subjective qualities , cannot be determined mathematically

[navin]

Originally Posted by Magma

1. how a two channel amp which is rated 75*2 converts to 200-225rms when bridged(when logically 75+75=150).

2. i have come across 1 amp 100*2rms @4ohms

3. sub A has specifications - 85db @1volt and sub B has a specification 91db @2.83 volts

4. Is there a thumb rule to know(or expect) if sub A (rated 60-250rms) or sub B rated (50-150rms) would play better/louder/tighter etc if both are fed with the same power 180rms -(assuming all other factors same )

Green horn covered most of this but I'll like to add 2 things.
1. please reconsider any amp that claims a bridged output that is 4x that of it's stereo output. This is theory and unless the amp has a fantastically low output impedance and fantastically high current deliverably this is very rare so consider such specs with a table spoon of salt (table spoon = a pinch and then some)

2. I am surprised that soemone has rated sensitivity at 1volt. Usually it is measured at 1W or 2.83V (which is 1W at 8 ohms and 2W at 4ohms).

3. When determining which speaker will play louder consider sensitivity (but since there are no standards for measuring sensitvity) also consider the Bl/Mms ratio. For subs in cabin/room response, position/location, and system loading (the same sub in free air or a ported box will be likely be louder than in a sealed box) should also be considered.

Originally Posted by greenhorn

Let me see if I can reduce navinji's work D

Thanks greenhorn.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by navin

Thanks greenhorn.

Navin, since greenhorn got most of it almost correct, we'll have to figure out a new handle for him, since he's not 'green' (behind the ears) anymore!

[ketchup]

@Rider60: Many thanks for your inputs. I will pm you regarding good installers in Bhagyanagaram ... Its time they changed this city's name like they've done with Bengalooru, Kolkotta, Mumbai & Chennai. Just kidding.

@Navin: Thank you again for your earlier post. I will perhaps choose my upgrade and get your views on the items I plan to add.

[navin]

Originally Posted by anupmathur

Navin, since greenhorn got most of it almost correct, we'll have to figure out a new handle for him, since he's not 'green' (behind the ears) anymore!

If you check Greenhorn's posts you will find that even his first posts suggested that his handle was a misnomer, but that is how he wants to be known and we will respect that.

Correction: Greenhorn got ALL of it correct.

[Magma]

Originally Posted by navin

Green horn covered most of this but I'll like to add 2 things.
1. please reconsider any amp that claims a bridged output that is 4x that of it's stereo output. This is theory and unless the amp has a fantastically low output impedance and fantastically high current deliverably this is very rare so consider such specs with a table spoon of salt (table spoon = a pinch and then some)



2. I am surprised that soemone has rated sensitivity at 1volt. Usually it is measured at 1W or 2.83V (which is 1W at 8 ohms and 2W at 4ohms).


3. When determining which speaker will play louder consider sensitivity (but since there are no standards for measuring sensitvity) also consider the Bl/Mms ratio. For subs in cabin/room response, position/location, and system loading (the same sub in free air or a ported box will be likely be louder than in a sealed box) should also be considered.

.

1. Steg is one such very respected amp maker

2.
yep i found it a little different too but hers a link to crosscheck
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=520&i=575P1S410&search=Rockford+Fosgat e+VENDORID575&searchdisplay=Rockford+Fosgate&tp=11 1&tab=features_and_specs

3.
hmm let me rephrase the question.
Consider the same brand and same range. Now if one has only 170W rms at their disposal and there are two sub options one which is rated 250rms and the other rated 150rms what moderately noticible/audible diffence (if any ) would one expect