[The_Warrior]

Originally Posted by redfire

I believe Skoda has a nice HU with it, like alpine. So leave the HU.

Originally Posted by navin

If you Rider came with an Alpine HU (many Octys do and at various stages different models of HU have been offered; in 2004 I was given a Alpine 9830) leave it alone.

As Redfire suggested get good components for 6K and a good amp for about 7K, you will need 6K for a sub and 2K for RCA connectors. Total 21K.

I have still not taken the delivery of the vehicle but during the TD i noticed that it is a Blaupunkt Cassette Player... how much would a MP3 CD Changer cost and will it be compatible with the Blaupunkt Cassette player??

[speedzak]

Originally Posted by The_Warrior

I have still not taken the delivery of the vehicle but during the TD i noticed that it is a Blaupunkt Cassette Player...

Sorry to interrupt.
Are you buying a 2nd hand car?
If yes, then it's possible that the previous owner has changed the original Alpine HU. Ask the previous owner if he still has it. If yes, then just get the Alpine and forget about the HU.
If you're buying a new car, then I suspect the dealer is taking you for a ride by giving you a cheap HU. Man! Tapes are obsolete these days. Demand for your Alpine Cd HU.

how much would a MP3 CD Changer cost and will it be compatible with the Blaupunkt Cassette player??

See! If you've no intention to change the Cassette player and also want cd functionality, then you've to add a cd changer. You'll have to find out the model of your cassette player first and then look out for a cd changer compatible with it.
I will definitely not recommend this. Buy a proper Cd HU and forget the rest!
Now, gurus! Please make this guy understand.

[navin]

Originally Posted by speedzak

I will definitely not recommend this. Buy a proper Cd HU and forget the rest!

The total budget is 20K.

So if the HU is a Blau cassette unit we'd have to first change that to a good CD unit. Alpines are nice but given the budget I'd suggest a Pioneer.

[DerAlte]

@The_Warrior, warriors don't go to battle without knowing the lay of the land!

Don't assume - better ask the dealer what ICE is he giving with the vehicle. Don't believe the TD vehicle's setup - they might have changed the HU to replace someone's defective unit in a hurry. No one MAKES a cassette HU nowadays, do they?

[ketchup]

Hi guys,

I'm have a bit of a boggle:

The Pio 5300T amp gives out
2x125w @ 4ohm, but
1x380w @ 4ohm when bridged
2x190w @ 2ohm.

Question: Do you think the bridged output is a valid claim, or could it be a lie by Pio?

I am especially suspicious since the pio 7300M puts out
1x250w @ 4ohm &
1x360w @ 2ohm

I feel this Mono amp is exactly the 5300T but bridged, and sold with a different name-sticker.

(@shuvd this question may interest you)

Appreciate any views.

Regards, Giri

[navin]

Originally Posted by ketchup

1x380w @ 4ohm when bridged = 2x190w @ 2ohm in stereo.

I am especially suspicious since the pio 7300M puts out
1x250w @ 4ohm &
1x360w @ 2ohm

If I was going to drive a sub I's still stick to the 7300. Why becuase it has a 2 ohm spec. The 5300 wont be happat at 2 ohms when bridged. A subwoofer impedance is inductive and will drop below 4 ohms. I would prefer the amp to operate within a zone where it is most happy as it will do a better job of mangaing the sub.

[hrsraghav]

Originally Posted by navin

Since violins can hurt I would look at speakers that have a smooth/polite if not slightly recessed upper midrange and few if any break up nodes (think doped paper cones etc..). In a home system I would consider a 4-5" with a wide smooth response from 200-4k but in a car a 4" ain't going to cut the mustard so look at 6" that have a smooth roll off.

And would a 6" suggested by you will also be equally good for vocal music.
And what are the 4" best suited for?

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by hrsraghav

And what are the 4" best suited for?

Mostly for cars that take only 4" speakers in the dash, and have no locations in the door.

Also 3~4 inchers make appearances as mids for 3 way speakers

[hrsraghav]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

Mostly for cars that take only 4" speakers in the dash, and have no locations in the door.

Also 3~4 inchers make appearances as mids for 3 way speakers

So if you had a option than 4" should be avoided as stand alone speakers.
Be it for front or rear speakers.
I have 6" components in front, but at times I feel the Instrumental music (Piano & Violin) and Vocal music is not as pleasant as others.
I searched on net, the Piano has frequency range of 27.5Hz to 4186Hz.
And for Violin its 196Hz to 659 Hz.And human voice range is 80Hz to 1100Hz.
So for rear speakers I want speakers which can compensate all these factors.

[greenhorn]

could you please explain what you mean by " not as pleasant" ?
Which are your components ?
the higher mids in a 6 incher would be very directional, and so your feet would end up listening to most of them

one plus point of 4 inchers is that they have very good prescence in the higher mids - like female vocals etc, since they are closr to your ears , and your ears are not too off the axis compared to a speaker in the door.

the 6 incher in the door would however have much better bass and warmth thanks to the large size.

a three way, i suppose , would be the best of both worlds. but a 5 incher with a good off axis response should be a good compromise

[hrsraghav]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

could you please explain what you mean by " not as pleasant" ?
Which are your components ?
the higher mids in a 6 incher would be very directional, and so your feet would end up listening to most of them

one plus point of 4 inchers is that they have very good prescence in the higher mids - like female vocals etc, since they are closr to your ears , and your ears are not too off the axis compared to a speaker in the door.

the 6 incher in the door would however have much better bass and warmth thanks to the large size.

a three way, i suppose , would be the best of both worlds. but a 5 incher with a good off axis response should be a good compromise

I use to listen music on my headphones. Large ones(58mm) which cover your entire ear. So relatively In my car I found others type of music equally or better than those headphones, but for vocals, and instrumental i think they are not as good as my headphones. I dont know much about whats inside my headphones.
Anyways i can't discard my existing setup. So for the rear speakers I want them to fulfill the leftover shortcomings. I have Adventure (station wagon). So at the rear the stock location of speakers is in the boot directing vertically upwards.

[navin]

Originally Posted by hrsraghav

And would a 6" suggested by you will also be equally good for vocal music. And what are the 4" best suited for?

Originally Posted by greenhorn

Mostly for cars that take only 4" speakers in the dash Also 3~4 inchers make appearances as mids for 3 way speakers

Originally Posted by hrsraghav

So if you had a option than 4" should be avoided as stand alone speakers. And for Violin its 196Hz to 659 Hz. And human voice range is 80Hz to 1100Hz.

Originally Posted by greenhorn

the higher mids in a 6 incher would be very directional, the 6 incher in the door would however have much better bass and warmth thanks to the large size. but a 5 incher with a good off axis response should be a good compromise

Originally Posted by hrsraghav

but for vocals, and instrumental i think they are not as good as my headphones.

1. Violin range = 196 - 3,136Hz
What's in your Music

2. 6" have twice the cone area (Sd) of a 4" and usually 50% more cone travel (Xmax) than a 4". That menas that they can move 3 times more air than a 4" and hence produce more bass. Since in a car the subwoofer is rarely located in the front of teh car it makes sense to at least have a 6" woofer in the front. A 6" will be limited to about 60Hz and a 4" to about 100Hz. Although this difference (60 to 100Hz) is less than an octave it also falls in the area where road noise is most prevalent and hence a 6" in the front makes more sense.

3. A 6" woofer will have more limited dispersion when compared to a 4" the difference is usually in the range from 1200 to 3000Hz. After 3kHz even a 4" woofer's off axis response falls. Mix this with the fact that most 6" wofoers are located somewhere between your ankles and your knees and you wonder how to can hear any midrange at all. A 4" on your dash however will refelct off the windscreen so in theory it's response should also be inaccurate. Fortunately our ears, brain and to some degree the odd mix of materials (soft carpet and seats and hard dash and glass) in a car compesate for all of this.

4. Most music is not mixed to heard over headphones. Mixing engineers usually use what the industry calls "Monitor" speakers for this purpose. These speakers are usually (if we disregard the good ones like BBC, Sheffiled Sound, etc..) a 2 way placed over the mixing console.

Since the engineer is located very close to the monitor he mixes the sound accordingly. When the CD produced by this mix is played on your home stereo the bass gets support for boundary reflections reducing the relative level of the midrange, besides there midrange suffers from smear due to similar reflections and hence becomes a bit un-intelligible so the brain focusses on what is intelligible.

When the same CD is played on your ipod the midrange is not recessed or smeared and hence you hear the vocals more clearly. The ear is very senstive to the midrange so differences in this area are most obvious.

Sorry for the rant.

[SRShrikanth]

Originally Posted by navin

Sorry for the rant.

Navin Jee,

Beautifully explained, as ever.

If this is rant, am sure we're loving it.

cheers:

[redfire]

Originally Posted by navin

Sorry for the rant.

Thanks for the detailed and beautiful explanation. Really learned something today. As Shrikanth said, if this is rant we're loving it .

[navin]

SRS/Red,

Did Sam put you guys up to this?

People dont usually compliment me for my rants. See the older posts. Something is fishy, like the time Bhagwan asked for help/opinions for his i10 install or Vivek's CCTB.