[vinvin]

Originally Posted by Crazy_cars_guy

Dear folks,

Request for your advice on the below please.

I am looking to replace the head unit on my Honda City ZX. Have changed the front speakers and tweeters to Audible Physics, and the rear speakers to Helix. Though the quality has increased, albeit it is just slightly better to the OEM setup.

I have been told that this is due to the weak power output from the OEM head unit. The installer's solution was to add an Amplifier, which I am not keen on until my car warranty is in place.

So, the other option would be to change the head unit itself.

Which model of Audible Physics do you have?
I have recently upgraded the speakers in my car to the Tandav OEM speakers and the output was unsatisfactory. Upon checking their website, these speakers have low sensitivity at 85.5db. You need good power to drive them. The Helix speakers on the other hand are efficient at 91db. Meaning they require lesser power. If these are not co-axial speakers, I'd recommend you to swap the Audible physics with Helix and give it a listen.

I too was apprehensive of adding an amplifier, but having a heard how it sounds in another car with the same make, I decided to go ahead. Also, there wasn't any wire-cutting or splicing involved. With the amp, it is a night & day difference with Audible Physics. Also, wouldn't the same conditions of warranty apply if you were to change the head unit? Also, you lose the left-cam functionality!

[Crazy_cars_guy]

Originally Posted by lxskllr

You don't have to let go of your OEM head unit… Don't replace your OEM unit.

Originally Posted by Mr.Boss

Adding DSP + Amp is the viable solution to extract better output from the already installed aftermarket speakers.

Originally Posted by prashantuchil

Just FYI - cutting of wires is not required for installing the DSP/Amp - so it should not void any warranties.

Originally Posted by vinvin

With the amp, it is a night & day difference with Audible Physics.

Thanks lxskllr, Mr.Boss, prashantuchil and vinvin for your thoughts and advice.

Following your advice, I have installed a Morel 4 channel amplifier and a MTX subwoofer. The amp powers the front Audible Physics component speakers and the subwoofer. I have left the rear Helix speakers as is and that’s powered from the head unit.

Overall, very satisfied with the output. There is a richness in the output quality, which can’t be penned down in words! Absolute bliss!

Thanks again for showing me this path, much grateful.

[vinvin]

Originally Posted by Crazy_cars_guy

Following your advice, I have installed a Morel 4 channel amplifier and a MTX subwoofer. The amp powers the front Audible Physics component speakers and the subwoofer. I have left the rear Helix speakers as is and that’s powered from the head unit.

Overall, very satisfied with the output. There is a richness in the output quality, which can’t be penned down in words! Absolute bliss!

Thanks again for showing me this path, much grateful.

Glad to hear that you are now enjoying the setup. Life is short to hear bad audio!

Could you tell me what model are the Helix and Audible Physics speakers you have? I have a 4 channel Morel amp too. I'll keep the model numbers in mind, when I upgrade.

[S1200]

Hi Gurus!
In my 1 year old dzire car, current setup is as follows:
Pioneer 5290 BT, JL Audio C1 components at front and C1 co-axials at rear (JL Audio door speakers only because of the mouth-watering deal I had got). None of the speakers are powered by amplifier.

I am now upgrading current setup with a subwoofer but wish to place inside cabin and at the same time do not wish to go down to 8 inch driver. Hence going with 10 inch JL Audio thin line (TW3) as there aren't many choices in thin line version and it is available easily and with the recommended height (as low as 3.75 inch internal) and size of sealed enclosure (0.5 cu ft) can be placed under front seat (by extending the enclosure 3-4 inch outside seat back as we are a family of 3 members).

My query is:
1. Will you recommend to produce the sealed enclosure with 12mm (0.47 inch) plywood with correct reinforcement from inside, as it will further help to lower enclosure height and is with me already and, instead of the recommended 0.625-0.75 inch mdf?

2. Can I place the subwoofer upside firing without making the seated person uncomfortable due to bass?

3. If upside firing will make the passenger uncomfortable, is it fine to place the subwoofer downside firing considering subwoofer's long term good shape? How much gap should be there between floor and subwoofer?

Thanks in advance!

[S1200]

In pictorial form what I am trying to say -





What will be preferred - downside firing or upside firing?

[straight6]

Originally Posted by S1200

Hi Gurus!
In my 1 year old dzire car, current setup is as follows:
Pioneer 5290 BT, JL Audio C1 components at front and C1 co-axials at rear (JL Audio door speakers only because of the mouth-watering deal I had got). None of the speakers are powered by amplifier.

I am now upgrading current setup with a subwoofer but wish to place inside cabin and at the same time do not wish to go down to 8 inch driver. Hence going with 10 inch JL Audio thin line (TW3) as there aren't many choices in thin line version and it is available easily and with the recommended height (as low as 3.75 inch internal) and size of sealed enclosure (0.5 cu ft) can be placed under front seat (by extending the enclosure 3-4 inch outside seat back as we are a family of 3 members).

My query is:
1. Will you recommend to produce the sealed enclosure with 12mm (0.47 inch) plywood with correct reinforcement from inside, as it will further help to lower enclosure height and is with me already and, instead of the recommended 0.625-0.75 inch mdf?

2. Can I place the subwoofer upside firing without making the seated person uncomfortable due to bass?

3. If upside firing will make the passenger uncomfortable, is it fine to place the subwoofer downside firing considering subwoofer's long term good shape? How much gap should be there between floor and subwoofer?

Thanks in advance!

Hi,

I have the same car and here are my recommendations.

1. Damp as much of the car as you can, even if you have to do it in stages. I have damped the roof, doors, floor and the boot lid. Only the boot floor and walls remain. You will be amazed how good your system will start sounding. Damping the roof will reduce the sound of the rain and damping the floor will reduce road noise.

2. Since you are a family of just 3 I would highly recommend going for a proper subwoofer in a sealed box in the boot as this will still give you enough luggage space. The under seat ones will never be satisfying enough especially since it will be an aftermarket enclosure and not one by JL Audio. Also, the problem you said about vibrations from under the seat will be prominent and also it will be too close to either the floor or the seat. I have a cut out in the rear armrest which allows the bass to come into the cabin even better which gets hidden when the rest is folded back up.

3. Plan a 5 channel amp for the entire system. This will mean you need just 1 wiring kit and it will power the 4 speakers and the subwoofer. This will take your speakers sound to the next level. My front components are also JL Audio's older base series which I had got in 2015 and used in my previous car the SX4 and they still sound amazing being just 50 watts rms.

4. I use the same HU and I use hi res flac files in a pen drive and if I'm streaming from BT I use Apple Music. This will also make a big difference in the experience.

[S1200]

Originally Posted by straight6

Hi,

I have the same car and here are my recommendations.

1. Damp as much of the car as you can, even if you have to do it in stages. I have damped the roof, doors, floor and the boot lid. Only the boot floor and walls remain. You will be amazed how good your system will start sounding. Damping the roof will reduce the sound of the rain and damping the floor will reduce road noise.

2. Since you are a family of just 3 I would highly recommend going for a proper subwoofer in a sealed box in the boot as this will still give you enough luggage space. The under seat ones will never be satisfying enough especially since it will be an aftermarket enclosure and not one by JL Audio. Also, the problem you said about vibrations from under the seat will be prominent and also it will be too close to either the floor or the seat. I have a cut out in the rear armrest which allows the bass to come into the cabin even better which gets hidden when the rest is folded back up.

3. Plan a 5 channel amp for the entire system. This will mean you need just 1 wiring kit and it will power the 4 speakers and the subwoofer. This will take your speakers sound to the next level. My front components are also JL Audio's older base series which I had got in 2015 and used in my previous car the SX4 and they still sound amazing being just 50 watts rms.

4. I use the same HU and I use hi res flac files in a pen drive and if I'm streaming from BT I use Apple Music. This will also make a big difference in the experience.

Thank you very very much for such a detailed reply, which I really was looking for. Now I am very clear about the purchase (12 inch in sealed enclosure).

Yes I am definitely going to damp all 6 sides of car and may be that is the reason I haven't installed an amplifier for door speakers yet.

I use paid subscription of Saavn app and it gives very good quality audio output. I also did liked amazon prime (paid subscription) audio quality which I had used once while being with my brother. I also have FLAC files downloaded into pen drive, although tiny collection as it is very difficult to get over internet. Talking about Apple music, I tried very hard, but the payment mode issue always kept me away from using it. Still I will try once again.

Folks, I am very new to premium speakers. So need suggestion for 12 inch subwoofer model in price range 25,000 to 30,000 for tight sounding bass? I am not looking for very loud bass and I think won't need too considering the small size of car. (I have a mono amp purchased already - Sony XM GS-100)

[straight6]

Originally Posted by S1200

Thank you very very much for such a detailed reply, which I really was looking for. Now I am very clear about the purchase (12 inch in sealed enclosure).

Yes I am definitely going to damp all 6 sides of car and may be that is the reason I haven't installed an amplifier for door speakers yet.

I use paid subscription of Saavn app and it gives very good quality audio output. I also did liked amazon prime (paid subscription) audio quality which I had used once while being with my brother. I also have FLAC files downloaded into pen drive, although tiny collection as it is very difficult to get over internet. Talking about Apple music, I tried very hard, but the payment mode issue always kept me away from using it. Still I will try once again.

Folks, I am very new to premium speakers. So need suggestion for 12 inch subwoofer model in price range 25,000 to 30,000 for tight sounding bass? I am not looking for very loud bass and I think won't need too considering the small size of car. (I have a mono amp purchased already - Sony XM GS-100)

To sign up for Apple Music you need to do it on the pc or laptop and then sign in from the phone. Make sure you enter all fields of address or else it wont let you go ahead to the payment screen. None of the others you mentioned have better than 320 kbps quality for premium. I was using Spotify for the last 2 years paying yearly and even that is 320 kbps.

The amp you have does 600 rms @ 2 ohms so no point going for any sub handling more than 600 rms. The budget you have kept for a sub is too much for your requirement. Some of my suggestions would be Pioneer tsw1212D4 (500 rms), Pioneer tsw3003D4 (600 rms), Nakamichi NSW-Z1206D4-II (600 rms), Sony XS-W124ES (500 rms).

I would suggest using the rest of your sub budget for damping apart from doors.

[S1200]

Originally Posted by straight6

To sign up for Apple Music you need to do it on the pc or laptop and then sign in from the phone. Make sure you enter all fields of address or else it wont let you go ahead to the payment screen. None of the others you mentioned have better than 320 kbps quality for premium. I was using Spotify for the last 2 years paying yearly and even that is 320 kbps.

The amp you have does 600 rms @ 2 ohms so no point going for any sub handling more than 600 rms. The budget you have kept for a sub is too much for your requirement. Some of my suggestions would be Pioneer tsw1212D4 (500 rms), Pioneer tsw3003D4 (600 rms), Nakamichi NSW-Z1206D4-II (600 rms), Sony XS-W124ES (500 rms).

I would suggest using the rest of your sub budget for damping apart from doors.

Thank you very much!

I tried Apple Music today again.
At the first time, I had added UPI payment method. Since then, the payment process doesn't go forward. Today also, it is not going ahead of "Payment Method Confirmation" page. I think I will need to change payment method to a card which will need an apple device. I will need to find an apple guy but now will do the search positively.

Regarding the subwoofer, I had ordered JL Audio shallow subwoofer (10 inch TW3 model) with a trusted online supplier on 8th of this month, which arrived today. Being this model is low running and was specially ordered for me (the supplier made it available from the factory), it is not returnable (of course for the exchange with other model despite I am willing to bear his losses during shipping). Looks like I have made the purchase in a hurry. Let's enjoy 10 inch JL Audio subwoofer.

[nfs_2_GT]

Hi Everyone,

I was looking to give my 2018 Ford Freestyle an ICE upgrade(instead of giving in to an itch for an upgrade) and was looking for some suggestions.


Based on my read of some of the threads and replies on the post I deduced I will need to add the following for a decent upgrade:
1. Front component speakers
2. Coaxials will do for the rear
3. DSP + Amp
4. Underseat subwoofer if possible
5. Damping

I was thinking of an overall budget of 50-60k and talked to two Bangalore ICE shops mentioned on Team-BHP(Evo and Top gear). I am looking for advice on two things:

1. Some suggestions on the products
2. Any additional shops in Bangalore which are good in member's experience. I found the Team-BHP directory for ICE in Bangalore to be quite outdated. From the directory, it seems that most of us Bangaloreans are more interested in a shiny car as evidenced by higher number of threads on PPF or detailing

[straight6]

Finally went with a dual sub setup and wow this is exactly what I needed.

[nik0502]

Hi Everyone,

I sold my Honda Civic 6 months back. I had upgraded the music system in it and while selling I uninstalled the equipment thinking of upgrading the sound system in my 2020 Ecosport which has a very average set up. However my experience with Civic hasn’t been good because of the installation. The issues I faced with Civic were

1. Constant whistling noise from the setup.
2. Battery draining issues when the car was not being used.
3. Front speakers would go off (powered by amp) and amp would show a red light. Restarting the car solved this most of the time.

Now I want to upgrade the set up in Ecosport.

This is what I have right now

Infinity Reference 6520 CX components (1 pair)
Pioneer E7004 Amp
Pioneer WX400DA Underseat Subwoofer.

I intend to replace the OEM Headunit (Fly audio) with an android one. I know purist would suggest a branded one however I like the convenience of android.

I always felt the bass is not enough from the underseat sub. Infinity reference are good and have excellent clarity but bass is almost negligible. Should I go for one more pair of bass heavy components? If yes then which one? And should those be installed in the front or back?

Can anyone suggest a good installer in Faridabad or nearby. I am very scared of getting the installation done from the local shops because of the fear of short circuits. They cut corners and use cheap wires with no connectors and only rely on thin layer of electrical tape.

Also, is it normal for battery to drain when car is stationary after audio upgrade. On Civic the battery used to last more than 4 weeks before the installation and barely 7-8 days after the upgrade. The battery was a brand new Amaron.

[NA-driver]

Originally Posted by nik0502

Hi Everyone,

I sold my Honda Civic 6 months back. I had upgraded the music system in it and while selling I uninstalled the equipment thinking of upgrading the sound system in my 2020 Ecosport which has a very average set up. However my experience with Civic hasn’t been good because of the installation. The issues I faced with Civic were

1. Constant whistling noise from the setup.
2. Battery draining issues when the car was not being used.
3. Front speakers would go off (powered by amp) and amp would show a red light. Restarting the car solved this most of the time.

Now I want to upgrade the set up in Ecosport.

This is what I have right now

Infinity Reference 6520 CX components (1 pair)
Pioneer E7004 Amp
Pioneer WX400DA Underseat Subwoofer.

I intend to replace the OEM Headunit (Fly audio) with an android one. I know purist would suggest a branded one however I like the convenience of android.

I always felt the bass is not enough from the underseat sub. Infinity reference are good and have excellent clarity but bass is almost negligible. Should I go for one more pair of bass heavy components? If yes then which one? And should those be installed in the front or back?

Can anyone suggest a good installer in Faridabad or nearby. I am very scared of getting the installation done from the local shops because of the fear of short circuits. They cut corners and use cheap wires with no connectors and only rely on thin layer of electrical tape.

Also, is it normal for battery to drain when car is stationary after audio upgrade. On Civic the battery used to last more than 4 weeks before the installation and barely 7-8 days after the upgrade. The battery was a brand new Amaron.

Hi,

Looks like you had wiring issues due to poor installation, someone who knows what they're doing is the most important thing in a car audio upgrade.

IMO you should upgrade to a proper subwoofer along with a monoblock amplifier or an active subwoofer with an in-built amplifier because an underseat "subwoofer" can't produce bass as well as a proper subwoofer.

You can go for a set of component speakers that has a mid-bass made of paper cone and silk dome tweeters, place them in the front doors and get the infinity ones in the rear doors.

There are some good installers in Delhi, For ex-Dream Audio (West Delhi) & Autoshack (Ghitorni) etc.

P.S. - I'm not associated with any of these shops by any means. I'm only suggesting based on my experience.

[self_driven]

Originally Posted by nik0502

The issues I faced with Civic were

1. Constant whistling noise from the setup.
2. Battery draining issues when the car was not being used.
3. Front speakers would go off (powered by amp) and amp would show a red light. Restarting the car solved this most of the time.

Can anyone suggest a good installer in Faridabad or nearby. I am very scared of getting the installation done from the local shops because of the fear of short circuits.

Looks like your previous installer didn't do wiring and routing properly.

As already suggested, you can add new components up front (after audition, don't go purely by recommendations) and move existing ones to rear. Power them with your existing amp and get the underseat installed for the time being. Based on how the thing turns out, you can then decide on replacing the underseat with a 12 inch subwoofer. That can either be powered off the rear channels of your amp or a dedicated mono.

Invest in good quality wiring like Scosche and ask the installer to run RCA and power wires separately. In Faridabad, Madaan Radios is the only decent place for car audio that I can recommend. Getting the upgrade done from Delhi opens up a lot of options. But follow-up visits for any future issues can be a pain.

[Mr.Boss]

Originally Posted by nik0502

is it normal for battery to drain when car is stationary after audio upgrade.

Should not be, unless the amplifier remote signal is tapped from battery +ve

Originally Posted by nik0502

On Civic the battery used to last more than 4 weeks before the installation and barely 7-8 days after the upgrade.

4 weeks itself is little lesser IMO.
I've parked my cars for 2+ months and never had battery drain issues.