[govigov]

Gurus,

Any recommendations for silk based cones in the component system in the 5.25 or 6 inch range? I can see most are poly-propylene and paper based cones.

[sultanofswing]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

They have a sensitivity of 91db, so 65W should be more than enough.
Dont go by the 60W claims of *ANY* HU - anything running off a 12V supply cannot push out more than 17-23W per channel to 4 ohm speakers.

IMO, spending 24K on a speaker when you don't have a good installer is pretty risky. Anything above 10K, you need to have a good installer who knows his work (and maybe a few little extras like damping) to get any benefits from the additional money you are spending. I've heard plenty of 6 figure installs where the installer was simply fitting speakers without giving much thought to things like isolation, placement, speaker axis alignment etc.

I would say instead of spending money on equipment, spend some effort in finding a good installer - or take a trip to chennai/hyd where there are known good ones.

Thanks so much for this. So you're saying the Zapco 65W one is enough to drive these and a pair of Co Ax (in the future)?

I'm not averse to spending on audio - For reference I have an Audioengine HD6 as my primary speakers at home, i've always used iems and headphones above 150-200$. My current travel companion is the excellent Sony XMIIs which I got since launch and I'm eyeing a Topping DX7 Pro and Focal Clear as an eventual (god knows) endgame set up for home.

However given i'll only MAX have the car for 4-5 years more, if that, I didn't want to go overboard. I feel the Android HU I got is itself overpriced, but I wanted the convenience of a tab based system.

Point fully taken about skilled installer. If no one is able to suggest anyone in Vijayawada, please let me know a known contact in Chennai or Hyderabad I'm happy to drive down - I have relatives in both places who would be happy with a surprise visit not to mention the roads are amazing.

TLDR: If anyone can suggest a trusted high-end audio installer in HYD/Chennai - Please suggest. Even if it comes at a labor premium, I'm willing to travel and get it done there.

But I'll go ahead and order the Virtus 602s to build the system around, then?

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by sultanofswing

TLDR: If anyone can suggest a trusted high-end

But I'll go ahead and order the Virtus 602s to build the system around, then?

Not so fast. From what I've seen, most of the better installers will have their own inventory and portfolio of brands they prefer. They usually will NOT appreciate it if you show up with a full list of equipment and want them just as an installer.

Generally they prefer to be treated as audio consultants, with a high level problem statement of what you need from audio, what your tastes are, budget etc, from which they'll usually recommend a config you can proceed with.

Some of them may be ok with installing outside equipment, but generally they're going to do the bare minimum since you're just using them as a commoditized service provider.

We have plenty of gurus here, but must 'good' installers tend to be Divas with whom it's their way or the highway, and are not keen on getting inputs from customers. I've gotten a curt "if you know everything then you do everything, why you come to me" quip from a few installers, so i usually let them do their stuff in peace, and do my tweaking myself at home. They don't like any other chefs in their own kitchen

[sultanofswing]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

I've gotten a curt "if you know everything then you do everything, why you come to me" quip from a few installers, so i usually let them do their stuff in peace, and do my tweaking myself at home. They don't like any other chefs in their own kitchen

I set out for a known dish from a good youtube chef, but you seem to be leading me towards a Michelin star

Please feel free to DM details of such 'consultants' in case this is taking away the spotlight from the thread. I'm open to advice and tastes. I do enjoy a curated experiences and I'll be open to brands. I do have an experience / audio preferences in minds which can be built around.

Only question is if I can afford such artists. I can't do 6 figures in one go.

[greenhorn]

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/chennai/

I will leave this here. I don't have much personal experience with any of them.

In my book anyone buying a 24k pair of comps is well on his way to a high end install

[Tuisha110HP]

Hi Car Gurus,

I have been contemplating installing a good ICE for my Skoda Rapid. Got that installed from Motorconcept, Delhi couple of days back. Here is the set up:

a) Mercury CE-165 components -Rs 17000
b) Amplifier : DD Redline LA400.4 : Rs 9500 plus wiring 4000
c) Sub: Sundown 6.5 : Rs 18000

After the install, somehow I am not satisfied with the output. The bass is good, but the clarity and brightness from the components are gone. Earlier, I was using just the Mercury components from headunits, and I was 70% right there for the liking of the brightness of instruments and clarity.

I was thinking that adding amp and sub would amplify the experience, but I'm not sure something is missing.

a) The comps have mellowed down; I don't get to listen to the minute details of music from the fronts.

b) The bass is OKAY. I do not need anything more.

Is this something related to tuning? In the amp, I saw the HPF was not turned OFF for fronts and was set to FULL. I changed that to HPF which somehow brought back the musicality, but something is still missing.

Can somehow please guide how to go about setting this thing up? Or what to tell the tuners when I visit them back?

P.S. I dont listen to load music, volume is max at 30%. Genre I listen to are Classical rock, Coke Studio type music with loads of instruments and bass and drums.

[rohitsharma359]

Hi Car Gurus,

So I have below audio setup in my Tata Zest now:
Front Speakers - Focal RSE-165 Component
Rear Speakers - Morel Maximo 6 MKII Component
Amplifier - JBL Club 704 - 4 channels
Sub - Blaupunkt XLf 10A - Under seat active sub
Stereo - Sony XAV5500
Car Damping - Done


So, I have just installed the sub last week and somehow it has messed up the whole system. I was generally happy with my system but felt that sometimes it lacks the punch in few songs.
I have installed the sub from Twisters in Hyderabad (Jubilee). Now the bass is very overpowering and somehow the quality of the vocals and others instruments has diminished.

I tried tuning - by setting the HPF on amp that powers the speakers and setting LPF on sub but somehow sub is still overpowering and music is not clear.

So, I was checking the whole wiring and found out below:

1. For Speakers - Connection is taken for HI output and not from RCA connections. After taking connection from the wire, an RCA Line High to low converter has been installed and then RCA cables are used to input to JBL amp.
---- My question is , whether directly connecting the RCA cables to the destined RCA port in the stereo will improve any sound quality?

2. For Sub output, what Twisters audio person has done is that he has taken output from the rear HI speaker cables and not the dedicated Sub port on the stereo. Now, the rear HI speaker wire powers both rear speaker (input to JBL amp) as well as Sub.
--- If I remove that connection and try to directly connect with RCA wire, will it make a difference?

3. For JBL amp, we have installed the 4 gauge amplifier kit (setup done in Punjab) but here even when I asked them to install the amp wire kit they said no need and directly used the 10 gauge wire.
-- Is the 10 gauge wire good enough for 500-600 watts max power? Should I get an amplifier kit with maybe 8 gauge at least? Will that reduce noise?

4. I usually listen to Bollywood/Punjabi music usually in low volume and prefer a crisp bass, but right now the bass is very boomy and gives headache even on low volume after sometime.
--- Can anyone suggest a good car audio shop in Hyderabad which I can go and they can do these changes and tuning in good way.

Thanks in advance!

[s4ch]

I have a 2016 Scorpio S10. Pretty happy with the stock setup and not too fussed about the speakers.

But I would love to change the headunit to the late 2020 S11 refresh model that has integrated Android Auto and Apple CarPlay. Mahindra part no: 1501BAA02161N

Mod Sheel has had this done on his Scorpio (exact same year and model), and I would like to do this too, however have hit a roadblock with the service centre not willing to even try this out or give it a go.

Does anyone have any contacts who could help me do this? I believe it is not quite plug and play but also not too difficult to do. Just that I have no idea at all how to go about it or who to ask.

I would prefer to go with Mahindra's system rather than aftermarket, mostly because of the integrated TPMS system - I don't believe that it is possible to integrate this even with a Canbus compatible aftermarket system - or am I wrong?

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[vedirah]

Originally Posted by rohitsharma359

Hi Car Gurus,

1. For Speakers - Connection is taken for HI output and not from RCA connections. After taking connection from the wire, an RCA Line High to low converter has been installed and then RCA cables are used to input to JBL amp.
---- My question is , whether directly connecting the RCA cables to the destined RCA port in the stereo will improve any sound quality?

No, the amp will anyway convert the high level signal to low level signal internally. Whether you use a dedicated hi-low converter or not, it won't affect the signal. Only the voltage.

Originally Posted by rohitsharma359

2. For Sub output, what Twisters audio person has done is that he has taken output from the rear HI speaker cables and not the dedicated Sub port on the stereo. Now, the rear HI speaker wire powers both rear speaker (input to JBL amp) as well as Sub.
--- If I remove that connection and try to directly connect with RCA wire, will it make a difference?

Again, no. The active sub will internally convert high level signal to low level.

Originally Posted by rohitsharma359

3. For JBL amp, we have installed the 4 gauge amplifier kit (setup done in Punjab) but here even when I asked them to install the amp wire kit they said no need and directly used the 10 gauge wire.
-- Is the 10 gauge wire good enough for 500-600 watts max power? Should I get an amplifier kit with maybe 8 gauge at least? Will that reduce noise?

You typically won't use the whole 500W power. If you did, you'd be deaf within two days. Typically on regular listening levels we use a maximum of up to 20W. Again, it depends on the speakers, but I don't think you'd ever need anything more than 20W.

Originally Posted by rohitsharma359

4. I usually listen to Bollywood/Punjabi music usually in low volume and prefer a crisp bass, but right now the bass is very boomy and gives headache even on low volume after sometime.
--- Can anyone suggest a good car audio shop in Hyderabad which I can go and they can do these changes and tuning in good way.

Blaupunkt under-seat subwoofer is by nature boomy as far as I know. First check whether theHLPF of the speakers is set above 80Hz. If not, try that and see whether it solves the issue. Otherwise what you can do is -

1. Set your equalizer to neutral position in the head unit.
2. Then adjust the volume level of the head unit to a comfortable level.
3. Then, you'll find a gain setting on the amp. Use that to increase gain until the speakers are just loud enough to overpower the subwoofer.
4. If your sub has a gain control, you can instead adjust that.

Try this and see whether you get the required output.

[redCherry]

Planning to get the below Audio set-up in my car.
I am going ahead with the Sony stereo (although I'm not a big fan of this brand ) due to
1. Medium-size screen and smaller chassis that suits my car
2. 2 USBs, & 3 pre-outs.
Please suggest any alternatives for the Amplifier-Speaker combination.

1. Head Unit : Sony AX5500
2. Amplifier : Pioneer DM8704 (Any alternatives for this Amp-speaker combo?)
3. Speakers : Morel Maximo Ultra 602 (Front) (Any alternatives for this Amp-speaker combo?)
4. Damping : 4 doors with 2 mm sheets + Wiring

I'm not a heavy bass fan or don't need high volumes, so not considering a sub-woofer at this moment.
I listen to Kannada, Telugu, Hindi film songs, and the source is mostly 320 Kbps MP3 off the USB drive.

[civic-dk]

I have replaced ORM car audio in my wife's Tiago with Blaupunkt Key Largo 970 Android Car Stereo. The stereo is connected to front speakers and Woofer (in the boot) via Alpine bbx-f1200 4 channel amplifier, while the rear speakers are directly connected to the rear coaxial speakers.

While I am happy with the sound quality from this setup, there are a couple of issues I am facing as under:
1. Randomly, the car will not start first time I crank it, I take out the key and crank it again, then it starts normally.
2. Also, again randomly, I get thuk sound when I start the car.
3. When I switch off the car, the front speakers and woofer go off, however, I hear rear speakers still playing the sound, which goes off when I take out the key from the ignition.

Request guidance from Car Audio Installation Gurus on what the issues could be and what are the potential resolutions.

[singh.b86]

Congratulations on the upgrade.

Replies in order to the queries raised by you.
1. Does it keep cranking and the engine doesn't start running or does it not even crank? Any unusual light or blinking on the tachometer?
Get ODB connected and see if any errors pop up. If any, then take pics of the same.

2. & 3. It seems that the installer might not have connected the remote wire of the amplifier from the Stereo, which cause abrupt power supply/power loss to the amp when the car comes into ignition or goes out of ignition.

Originally Posted by civic-dk

I have replaced ORM car audio in my wife's Tiago with Blaupunkt Key Largo 970 Android Car Stereo.

[singh.b86]

Sony is a pretty darn sweet brand, and does not get its due respect in the aftermarket HU industry.

For the kind of music you listen to, the model of the HU and Amp you have chosen is pretty sweet, but why just 1 pair of comps (front), why not 2 pairs?

The experience will be leaps better, and if you can consider pushing the budget whilst sticking to just 1 pair of comps, then do consider JL Audio C1-650 comps. Much sweeter than Morel.

You don't get Polk DB6501 anymore, else nothing comes close to them.

Regarding damping, how many layers are you getting on each door? I got 3 on all 5 doors (boot inclusive). One on the outer layer, one on the frame, the other on the door pad and what a world of difference that has created, including the entire floor of the car damped.

Originally Posted by redCherry

Planning to get the below Audio set-up in my car.

[civic-dk]

Originally Posted by singh.b86

Congratulations on the upgrade.

Replies in order to the queries raised by you.
1. Does it keep cranking and the engine doesn't start running or does it not even crank? Any unusual light or blinking on the tachometer?
Get ODB connected and see if any errors pop up. If any, then take pics of the same.

2. & 3. It seems that the installer might not have connected the remote wire of the amplifier from the Stereo, which cause abrupt power supply/power loss to the amp when the car comes into ignition or goes out of ignition.

Thanks singh.b86. Actually, I believe it doesn't even crank. Could it be due to an overload on the engine? As for anything unusual on the tachometer, I noticed Engine Lock sign staying even after I had restarted the car (after it didn't crank the first time). I had to stop and restart the car for the Engine Lock sign to go away. I am attaching the Engine Lock image here.



As for remote wire connection, I will check with the installer.

[singh.b86]

If that is the light that shows up on the tachometer, then probably your car is unable to communicate with the chip inside the key fob, due to which authentication doesn't happen and it prevents itself from cranking.

This could only be caused due to low battery of the key fob which might need replacing and shouldn't cost more than 100-200 bucks if you do it on your own.

If the problem still persists, then visit a FNG who can plug in a scanner onto the car and see what the problem is.

Originally Posted by civic-dk

Thanks singh.b86. Actually, I believe it doesn't even crank. Could it be due to an overload on the engine? As for anything unusual on the tachometer, I noticed Engine Lock sign staying even after I had restarted the car (after it didn't crank the first time). I had to stop and restart the car for the Engine Lock sign to go away. I am attaching the Engine Lock image here.

Attachment 2388365

As for remote wire connection, I will check with the installer.