[petrolhead_chn]

Good day again! I hope some good soul can help understand the below in easy terms. The specs are of Pioneer 6350 BT. Would help in gaining knowledge and take a plunge too. I went over lot of YouTube videos but unable to put that into use.

Power
MOSFET 50 W x 4

RCA Pre-outs
3 (4V)

Maximum power output
50 W x 4
50 W x 2 ch/4 ohms + 70 W x 1 ch 2 ohms (for subwoofer)

Maximum power output
22 W x 4 (50 Hz to 15kHz, 5% THD, 4 ohms load both channels driven)

Preout Level (max)
4.0 V

Few questions based on the above-
1. Does the HU with above specs still need an amplifier? I am not going to add a sub though.
2. I don't listen to heavy rock/bass songs. But songs with decent thumps is a bliss.
3. Is there a significant difference between 4V pre out and 2V?
4. Does MOSFET 50w x 4 HU still need an amplifier?
5. The speakers are Focal Auditor RSE 165 components in the front and Focal RCX 165 in the rear

Apologies if any of the question is silly. Your responses will help decide.
Thanks in advance and good day again.

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

Good day again! I hope some good soul can help understand the below in easy terms. The specs are of Pioneer 6350 BT.

Few questions based on the above-
1. Does the HU with above specs still need an amplifier? I am not going to add a sub though.
2. I don't listen to heavy rock/bass songs. But songs with decent thumps is a bliss.
3. Is there a significant difference between 4V pre out and 2V?
4. Does MOSFET 50w x 4 HU still need an amplifier?
5. The speakers are Focal Auditor RSE 165 components in the front and Focal RCX 165 in the rear

1. For regular sane listening levels with ordinary music, HU is enough.
2. if you need thump, 6.5"ers all around may not be enough- you may get some mild bump with eq tweaks, but your built in amp may not be enough. try 6x9 coax in the rear on an MDF parcel shelf if thump is needed but sub is also not an option. else underseat sub is what I have done
3. No - just a tiny bit more clarity as you will have better signal/noise ratio
4. 50Wx4 is marketing. true RMS is closer to 14W per channel

[Zodak]

Hello experts,

I have a 2020 Superb Sportline and I'm looking to enhance its audio system by adding a subwoofer with amp. However, I want to ensure that I don't run into any warranty issues or have to cut any wires during the installation process. I'm hoping some of you can shed some light on this topic and suggest plug-and-play solutions that might be suitable for my situation. I was hoping that I could get something like this installed - https://www.amazon.in/JBL-BassPro-Spare-Tire-Subwoofer/dp/B07PSQ693G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 . Also if someone can guide me to a good installer in Delhi/NCR, that would be awesome. Thanks

[petrolhead_chn]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

1. For regular sane listening levels with ordinary music, HU is enough.
2. if you need thump, 6.5"ers all around may not be enough- you may get some mild bump with eq tweaks, but your built in amp may not be enough. try 6x9 coax in the rear on an MDF parcel shelf if thump is needed but sub is also not an option. else underseat sub is what I have done
3. No - just a tiny bit more clarity as you will have better signal/noise ratio
4. 50Wx4 is marketing. true RMS is closer to 14W per channel

An update and further insights.

Below is the latest addition/upgrade done on the car.
1. Pioneer 5290BT HU
2. Focal Access 165 AS comp in the front
3. Focal RSE 165 comp in the rear
4. Alpine BBX F1200 Amp
5. Scosche wiring (could be wrong)
6. Dr.Artex damping on all doors

Pls note that there is no sub woofer at all and I do not want to add at all.
Can you please advise or point me to any link that will help me tune the amp reasonably. There is HPF/LPF/Gain/Frequency/Bass EQ on the amp and I am unsure what to do. TIA

[Mr.Boss]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

please advise or point me to any link that will help me tune the amp reasonably. There is HPF/LPF/Gain/Frequency/Bass EQ on the amp and I am unsure what to do. TIA

Some basics for understanding

https://www.crutchfield.com/lg_120/A...ng-Guides.html

https://www.wikihow.com/Set-the-Gain-on-a-Car-Amplifier

https://soundcertified.com/how-to-se...-audio-system/

[petrolhead_chn]

Originally Posted by Mr.Boss

Some basics for understanding

https://www.crutchfield.com/lg_120/A...ng-Guides.html

https://www.wikihow.com/Set-the-Gain-on-a-Car-Amplifier

https://soundcertified.com/how-to-se...-audio-system/

The links were informative. Although I couldn't absorb all of it, I went through the 3rd link and that seemed more easy

Just to confirm-

1. Since I do not have a sub woofer connected, I TURN OFF the LPF to ensure bass is nullified in amplifier
2. I TURN ON the HPF on CH-1/2 and CH-3/4 (all speakers)
3. I set the frequency at 70Hz apps for all speakers
4. The GAIN is used to set the max amplification that can be sent to speakers to point where distortion might pop in

I am a little confused about the BASS EQ option in my amplifier model and what do I set it to and this option is available under CH-3/4 only

[kpkeerthi]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

An update and further insights.
2. Focal Access 165 AS comp in the front
3. Focal RSE 165 comp in the rear
4. Alpine BBX F1200 Amp

These components can't handle below 60Hz and your amp has a -12db slope. At a 70Hz high-pass cut-off you would be sending a ton of distorting signals to the driver. You may want to consider a cut-off in the range 100-120Hz. I personally would recommend a nice sub that can play as low as 20-40Hz and cut out a low pass at 80Hz to round off the missing freqs. (These are just recommended starting points based on your equipments' specs and may need little fine tuning)

The bass eq of your amp is at 45 hz and since it is driving only the comps (that cannot play in the 45 hz range) you should have it turned off.

[petrolhead_chn]

Originally Posted by kpkeerthi

These components can't handle below 60Hz and your amp has a -12db slope. At a 70Hz high-pass cut-off you would be sending a ton of distorting signals to the driver. You may want to consider a cut-off in the range 100-120Hz. I personally would recommend a nice sub that can play as low as 20-40Hz and cut out a low pass at 80Hz to round off the missing freqs. (These are just recommended starting points based on your equipments' specs and may need little fine tuning)

The bass eq of your amp is at 45 hz and since it is driving only the comps (that cannot play in the 45 hz range) you should have it turned off.

Appreciate the reply. I think the guys recommended this amplifier as I told them I am not interested in a sub at all. I don't think I can connect a sub to this amplifier too (Alpine BBX F1200).

If I set the HPF at 100Hz for all speakers, will I be missing out on even the mediocre bass (unsure of correct term)? Can't add another amplifier for sub alone.

[greenhorn]

Generally very few amp the rear speakers. When a 4 ch amp is used. It usually drives the comps in front and the sub. The rear speakers will be connected to the head unit

Why do you want to hpf your speakers? Are they distorting or are you getting vibrations?

Personally I feel 60-70 hz bass is important and I would not high pass above 80 unless there is a corresponding lpf driving a sub

[petrolhead_chn]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

Generally very few amp the rear speakers. When a 4 ch amp is used. It usually drives the comps in front and the sub. The rear speakers will be connected to the head unit

Why do you want to hpf your speakers? Are they distorting or are you getting vibrations?

Personally I feel 60-70 hz bass is important and I would not high pass above 80 unless there is a corresponding lpf driving a sub

I have components installed in the rear too. I have been reading too many articles now and a little confused I hope.
Moreover, I am of the understanding that LPF must be set to OFF as there is no sub. HPF to be set around 70Hz or 80Hz to ensure clear output. The guys at the installation has kept the HPF and LPF to OFF position at CH-1/2 and CH-3/4. I am not sure what gains are set at as I am unable to see it clearly.

I guess I've been worrying too much over this and it is causing confusion
I really love listening to songs with decent thump and so I want to set the correct numbers. What do you suggest I set the amplifier at? I definitely do not need a sub pls.

Would be great to hear your thoughts and how you might set this up if it were you car. Thanks again for responding back.

[greenhorn]

If you listen at mostly low volumes or if you are not getting any signs your speakers are not able to handle the bass (distortion/rattling) keep hpf as off. A little lf content doesn't hurt.

If you're worried about keeping the speakers in good shape and avoiding any damage, then yes, an lpf of 50-60 might help. If you're trying to coax some bass out of your current setup, and don't mind pushing the speakers a bit, leave the lpf off.

[kpkeerthi]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

If I set the HPF at 100Hz for all speakers, will I be missing out on even the mediocre bass (unsure of correct term)? Can't add another amplifier for sub alone.

https://www.focal.com/sites/www.foca...ical_sheet.pdf

Do check the freq response of the comps. If you cut-off at 100 Hz at -12db per octave, the components will be playing 50 Hz at about -12db spl, 75 Hz at about -6db spl which perfectly aligns with the frequency response of the drivers.

Also, as you can see from the freq response curve the driver's performance at 70 Hz and below is mediocre (these ranges are better given to a sub). Hence it make no sense to cut off HPF at this frequency. Forcing them do so will cause distortion. Again it's your preference - if you do not hear the distortion it's good for you

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

The guys at the installation has kept the HPF and LPF to OFF position at CH-1/2 and CH-3/4. I am not sure what gains are set at as I am unable to see it clearly.

They might have set the HPF directly in the headunit. Do check there.

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by kpkeerthi

https://www.focal.com/sites/www.foca...ical_sheet.pdf

Do check the freq response of the comps. If you cut-off at 100 Hz at -12db per octave, the components will be playing 50 Hz at about -12db spl, 75 Hz at about -6db spl which perfectly aligns with the frequency response of the drivers.

Also, as you can see from the freq response curve the driver's performance at 70 Hz and below is mediocre (these ranges are better given to a sub). Hence it make no sense to cut off HPF at this frequency. Forcing them do so will cause distortion. Again it's your preference - if you do not hear the distortion it's good for you

IMO you should be doing the opposite. you want your amp/hu output to be the inverse of your speaker response. The woofer has usable output up to 50hz (like you said, its only 12 db down). and 12 db is within the capabilities of an EQ, which both the amp and the HU have, and we have a shot at equalizing the response to flat using some eq. Granted, power handling, xmax put limits to what levels this can be used, but for low volumes this should be achievable.
agree that it should be HPF'ed below 50

[KadiNiSikhiya]

My budget is 80K to 1L. I'm looking to upgrade my year-old i20 base variant which is currently running stock speakers with Nippon Android HU. Tasks/jobs I'm planning for include:
1. HU upgrade to a more SQ-oriented one BUT with Android Auto support as I need Navigation
2. All 4 doors, boot lid, and floor damping
3. Front Components but should fit in stock location including tweeters
4. Rear Coaxials would do
5. 4-channel Amplifier
And if budget allows then an under-seat subwoofer.
I haven't browsed, let alone selected any of the items for the build due to paucity of time, and hope to defer the task to the experienced and nuanced members of the forum.
For installation, my preferred destination would be Panchkula/Chandigarh and next would be Delhi but will be needing suggestions/references here for this too.

[SanjuInGgn]

Originally Posted by Zodak

Hello experts,

I have a 2020 Superb Sportline and I'm looking to enhance its audio system by adding a subwoofer with amp. However, I want to ensure that I don't run into any warranty issues or have to cut any wires during the installation process. I'm hoping some of you can shed some light on this topic and suggest plug-and-play solutions that might be suitable for my situation. I was hoping that I could get something like this installed - https://www.amazon.in/JBL-BassPro-Spare-Tire-Subwoofer/dp/B07PSQ693G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 . Also if someone can guide me to a good installer in Delhi/NCR, that would be awesome. Thanks

Hi Zodak - I have a similar requirement for my Sportline. Were you able to find any alternatives that dont impact the warranty?