[redfire]

From the feedback I got from many friends, Bosch is a very good battery. All the guys used/using that one vouch for it. Even I am also considering it on next change. But the Amaron which I got OE in my swift is working fine for the past 9 months.

[BHAGWAN]

SP1700

Product Family: Batteries

Stinger was the first to bring you the Dry Cell Battery for Car Audio! And we have continued to offer the most powerful, compact and reliable car audio batteries available, anywhere! Utilizing advanced battery technology, Power2’s were created with the car audio enthusiast in mind. Offering staggering high current capability, superior fast recharge rate, and true deep cycle operation, this “Dry Cell” battery allows complete discharge with no negative effects. Corrosion free, zero maintenance design that allows for custom installation inside the vehicle or engine compartment; the versatility of the Power2 allows it to be used as a secondary deep cycle battery or primary engine start power source.

POWER2 Battery Dimensions: 6.75” H x 13” W x 6.5” D (Add 5/8” to height for battery post)
Black powder finish protective steel case

SPECIFICATIONS:
Internal resistance: 3.5mohm
5 Second Cranking: 1700A
Short circuit current: 3500A
Weight: 58.5lbs
Temperature range: -40C to + 60C

Constant current discharge in amps to 10 volts:
CCA rating: 875
Ah rating: 72Ah
30 min.: 103
5 hr: 13.2
20hr.(C/20): 3.6

Stinger Electronics :: Where It's Loud

This is the option - problem is the price !!!
Cannot import is direct - have to buy from dealer - weight will kill you...

[St. Anger]

I went to Cherry International, the Bosch Dealer in Santacruz (W) today and he asked me to go in for a Bosch Silver '55B24L' Battery. However, he didn't have it in stock. Unfortunately i have to return my spare battery to the local guy and he stocks only Exide.
Does anyone know of any dealer in the western suburbs who'll have this particular model in stock?

[mohang_j]

Hi gurus,
I have started fiberglass sub box for my alto.I am having difficulties in the resin and hardener ratio.It is taking long time to dry(8 hrs).Is it because of low temperature or hardener quantity / i had closed the boot lid after applying resin in the night (12pm)not able to diagnose.I have used 3% hardener and the resin guys says 2-3%.should i increase the hardener quantity? somewhere i read that increasing the hardener make fiberglass brittle.I have used talc powder and bulb to dry.Any suggestions.

[DerAlte]

Neither the talc nor the bulb is going to help.

Did you mean not dry as in 'tacky to touch'? It takes about a day to set, and yes, at lower temps it takes longer to set. The chemical reaction is exothermic, though. Patience, you are not doing anything wrong, other than may be the hardener was not uniformly distributed.

[mohang_j]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Neither the talc nor the bulb is going to help.

Did you mean not dry as in 'tacky to touch'? It takes about a day to set, and yes, at lower temps it takes longer to set. The chemical reaction is exothermic, though. Patience, you are not doing anything wrong, other than may be the hardener was not uniformly distributed.

It is dried from liquid form to paste,(don't know how to explain) in the previous batch it was dried much faster.I had read that temp will increase the setting time thats why i had used the bulb.If hardener is not mixed properly is there any way i can do now.Could be possible since did it in the night -low light.

[navin]

Originally Posted by mohang_j

I am having difficulties in the resin and hardener ratio.

It is taking long time to dry(8 hrs).

Is it because of low temperature

1. did you not use a catalyst?

2. temp and humidity will affect drying time. I add a bit more catalyst in the monsoons.

because of settling of resin, corners take longer to dry. If I were you I would have taken the trunk cover off (a carpet like material usually covers the trunk) and resin coated it on a flat table. but done is done. just get some heat to it.

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Neither the talc nor the bulb is going to help.

A bulb can help.

take a good 300W bulb and if you can fashion a reflector (the kind europenas use for sun tans will work fine) it will help focus the heat in a small area. the heat will also dry the resin and reduce the relative humidity around the drying area.

[mohang_j]

Originally Posted by navin

1. did you not use a catalyst?

bulb can help.

I have used 3% catalyst but no accelerator.The manufacturer recommends 2-3%.Can i add more? I am using 200w bulb now.
I wanted to get the skeleton made.I had to join the MDF and the side wall fiberglass( which i had made 3 days back) since did it in the car.

[navin]

Originally Posted by mohang_j

I have used 3% catalyst but no accelerator.The manufacturer recommends 2-3%.Can i add more? I am using 200w bulb now.

no dont go over 3%. get more heat to the area instead.

[mohang_j]

Originally Posted by navin

no dont go over 3%. get more heat to the area instead.

Ok i will do that.In case if catalyst is not mixed properly is there anything i can do.

[ketchup]

Hi Guys, I would like to share my experience with using a system that doesn't have a sub.

This is my current setup:
HU: Pio 7950ub
Front: GTO 607c comps
Rear: GTO 937
Sub: *None*
Amp: Sony 554
Wiring: Monster
Car: Honda City

The setup is 1 year old, I did not buy a sub as I don't need too much bass and wanted to keep the price in check. I thought I'd try this setup and then add the sub later if needed.

My sound preference is a clean all round sound. I've tried to get this out of the setup, but I've not been entirely successful.

As I do need some amount of bass, I've tried different equaliser settings and loud settings. Finally the setting that gave me the cleanest sound with a little bit of bass is: Loud @ Level 2 (out of 3), Equaliser at Flat, Fader at Rear Level 3 (out of 10). This setting gives me adequate bass for my taste.

I'm still not happy with the quality of the sound, I would describe the sound as a bit heavy / discotheque. Here's why:

• The loud function itself kills the Clean-ness of the sound. Remove Loud and its too drab.
• The sound Stage is behind me (I sit in the front of the car). Moving the stage a bit front kills bass.
• I don't think I'm getting to enjoy my expensive front components the way I should - too much sound from the rear.

However if I sit in the backseat, I'm quite happy with the quality of the sound.

I'm now planning to buy a sub with an amp/monoblock as I feel this will give a well balanced system, this was the plan a year back too.

I'm sharing my personal experience incase anyone's wondering if they really need a sub.

Gurus please advise if my line of thinking is right.

Cheers,

Giri


*****************

This setup's 1 year old. As you can see, there is no Sub and I'm feeling the need for it.

I want good clean well balanced sound. I don't need heavy bass, and so a basic sub might do.

Can anyone please describe the difference in the type of sound from an 8"sub vs 10" vs 12", if all three were played at the same volume of output? Obviously the smaller ones would have lower RMS rating and the peak bass output is lower, however at say a "medium" volume what would be the quality of bass from each of these?

I'm looking for balanced bass, not too tight or not too soft. I do NOT want the bass to overly dominate either. I'm budgeting an extra spend of Rs 8k-10k.

1. What should be the options I should look at.
2. Will my current Sony 554 do / Should I get a new amp / Dump my current amp?
3. Should I consider the Blau THB 8"Active Sub?
4. How much damping & where?

Your valuable suggestions are appreciated as always.

Cheers,
cheers:

[navin]

Originally Posted by mohang_j

I'm budgeting an extra spend of Rs 8k-10k.

1. What should be the options I should look at.
2. Will my current Sony 554 do / Should I get a new amp / Dump my current amp?
3. Should I consider the Blau THB 8"Active Sub?
4. How much damping & where?

Your valuable suggestions are appreciated as always.

options: JBL, Blaupunkt, Ground Zero (if avaialble in your neighbourhood)
unless you are tight for space the Blau sub can be bettered for the price
damp the front doors, trunk, rear doors, under carpet and firewall in that order (depending on budget).

an idea...
get a 8-10" sub. Something that is comfortable in about 15-20 liters sealed.
use 554 for sub and front components and HU for rear.
if you like the bass stick with it. if you want more doubel your budget and repeat and get a nicer 4 ch. amp (from Blau, Kenwood, JBL, Pioneer) for the front and rear.

8-10" sub budget 5-6K
box for above 1-2K
------------------
6-8K for "now"

2nd sub 6-7K with box
4 ch. amp 7K
----------
if not satisfied with "now" add this afor about 14K later.

[ketchup]

Hello Navinji,

Thanks for your prompt response. Your suggestion of adding a sub now and then think it over if I need another sub/amp later is great - I think I'll follow that.

I want to keep my system minimalistic from a space use point of view, so I think It'll have to be just one sub in the long plan. So I'll get the sub now and drive it using the Sony 554 amp, and then if needed I'll perhaps get a monoblock later. Good suggestion.

Question is what size of sub: 8" / 10" / 12"? Is there any difference in the quality of thump from these - at a med-high volume? Would it still be effective if I placed an 8" or 10" in the boot of my Honda City, I sit in the front and will putting an 8" in the boot be ok? Or perhaps I should get a 10" or a 12" and put the sub in the spare well of the boot as per this post titled: Sub woofers in the spare wheel well.

There is a 2nd hand Pioneer 306DVC Premier 12" sub on sale for Rs 2k. Should I consider it, or should I stick with a better brand like JBL / GZ?

What would be a VFM monoblock for around 200W RMS?

Thanks again...

[navin]

Originally Posted by mohang_j

Ok i will do that.In case if catalyst is not mixed properly is there anything i can do.

Not after you have poured it.

Originally Posted by ketchup

I want to keep my system minimalistic from a space use point of view

Honda City, I sit in the front and will putting an 8" in the boot be ok? Or perhaps I should get a 10" or a 12" and put the sub in the spare well of the boot

There is a 2nd hand Pioneer 306DVC Premier 12" sub on sale for Rs 2k. Should I consider it, or should I stick with a better brand like JBL / GZ?

What would be a VFM monoblock for around 200W RMS?

If you want to reduce space occupied you could consider 2 8" subs in 2 small boxes that can be fit into the "wheel well niches" drive them with the 554 and get another better 4 ch. amp for the front and rear.

A single 8" wont be adeuate for the City. 10" or 12" is what you need. My mom has a NHC and she heard the a few 10" and 12" subs and finally settled for an Infinity 12".

If you are looking a wheel well sub please see who bhagwan damped the wheel well on his Swift (pics in Sound off and Show off). a 10" would fit best give the small volume of the wheel well.

The Pio 306 needs quite a bit of power (250Wrms+). Your 554 wont drive it well.

[nripin]

I've beeen using local bangladesh battery in my car they have been well maintained with RainWater top ups every month and two years gone no problems at all

Their prices start from 1000 bucks lol