[trammway]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

Hey...!! I now remember Raju saying that this part "has" to be removed to accomodate the FFRA.

I still didn't solve a puzzle on why did only Mahindra Classic required 24" axle while your CJ340 or any other SWB from JEEP lineup needed only 23" axle?

If I need to use 23" axle and remove the thrust block then the axle will still be going inside and I believe 24" is the correct size for Classic.

There is a probability that the Auburn LSD's spider gear assy is one inch deeper than the open type or the locker that you use. But then if we say Dana 44 differential, does it not mean the entire housing and internal gearings ? Then how come difference in the differential unless the difference is in the axle itself.

[Jaggu]

One more stupid question i thought there was something in the spider/star gears that held the axle in place of SFRA?

Next time i need to observe more!!!

[trammway]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

One more stupid question i thought there was something in the spider/star gears that held the axle in place of SFRA?

Next time i need to observe more!!!

Thrust block is the part between the inside ends of the axle shafts, hence the lesson I learned in my FFRA conversion that The thrust block must be removed when converting to full floating axles. See the exploded view of Dana44 shared by Spike in Santhosh's thread for better understanding of the thrust block position in the Dana44



Bits from Internet:

A word about axle shaft thrust blocks: A few differentials, such as the Jeep AMC and the older 19-tooth Spicer 44 axle, use a thrust block between the inside ends of the axle shafts as a part of the end play adjustment

Perhaps the "thrust block" needs to equalize things in SFRA.

[trammway]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

One more stupid question i thought there was something in the spider/star gears that held the axle in place of SFRA?

Next time i need to observe more!!!

Sorry my previous post was expired before I could edit this information.

I took this picture of Willys Jeep's spider (note 10splines) and see the id of the spider has no stopper for the axle and without thrust block it will surely go inwards crossing the spider itself.

Originally Posted by trammway

While I'm writting this post the Mechanic has made some alteration to the nagaraja/grease cup to accommodate the extra projected part of the axle and really not removed this thrust block or ground the axle. good that he didn't ground the axle, I think I can do this experiment of removing thrust block on my next service. Does anyone have another problem foreseen if I drive this axle 1/2" project as shown in the previous post? Or the non-removal of thrust block could do some damage to my LSD ?

This is how the grease cup altered to accommodate the extra length of the axle.


Finally My explorer is setup with FFRA, Auburn LSD, new PowerZone 90amps battery, pumpkin guard for front differential, and new steering box.

Some more pending items are

1. Wiper motor replacement
2. Wiper blade replacement
3. Headlight bulb replacement and some electrical issue correction
4. an Offroad with my new setup
5. and the Major task of Tinker and Painting

Until point number four, will be done prior to my US visit which is scheduled in another 10days

to be continued...

[Jaggu]

Thanks man now i got it. I thought there would be some circlip kind of stuff which will hold the axle in place.

ps: Add one more thing to the list. A THOROUGH WASH! I hate when you put up that wheel pics with so much muck in it!!!

[trammway]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Thanks man now i got it. I thought there would be some circlip kind of stuff which will hold the axle in place.

ps: Add one more thing to the list. A THOROUGH WASH! I hate when you put up that wheel pics with so much muck in it!!!

Yeah! the problem is that my steering was broken condition when I moved the jeep to garage. The garage doesn't have water wash facility hence I need to wait till the mechanical repair works to be completed before I move it to water wash.

[svsantosh]

Did you remove the thrust block? Do the issues still remain? Not clear from this pic angle what was done to the nagaraj cup, another angle please?

[trammway]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

Did you remove the thrust block? Do the issues still remain? Not clear from this pic angle what was done to the nagaraj cup, another angle please?

Nope the Thrust block is not been removed, I had already discussed with Mr.UBS also and looks like keeping the thrust block with FFRA is not an issue and no damage will be done. So instead of taking a risk of dismantling the brand new LSD kit, I'm opting to drive this setup for some more time to see if any issue arrises.

Actually if you look at the nagaraj cup flat surface where it is bolted to the flange some discoloration could be spoted. That is due to tin work done to make the bowl part extend for 1/2inch so the project axle could be accomodated inside the nagaraj cup. Will take some pics after waterwash to show you the exact modifications.

Ok now the completed FFRA differential housing picture (rear underbody view)


and the front pumpkin guard with brand new differential door picture (front underbody view)


Now watchout this space for ideas to increase ground clearance and better supension of Mahindra Classic(another trial and error starts). After water wash I will measure the current ground clearance and install the new setup then measure the optimised one for your review.

STAY TUNED.

to be continued...

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by trammway

Nope the Thrust block is not been removed, ...... So instead of taking a risk of dismantling the brand new LSD kit, I'm opting to drive this setup for some more time to see if any issue arises...

Oh I forgot the LSD pic, looks like it is needed and comes within the LSD.

So what plans for height Increase eh? Spoa?

[trammway]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

Oh I forgot the LSD pic, looks like it is needed and comes within the LSD.

So what plans for height Increase eh? Spoa?

Hmmm I wanted to add one more correction here, the thrust block in LSD could be an option due to the fact that the LSD could be used for SFRA or FFRA.

So the manufacturer would have assumed that the thrust block will be removed when installed with FFRA and needed when installed with SFRA setup. This decision may be an output of inventory management practices. Otherwise the company may have had two different part numbers for SFRA and FFRA setups.

PS: All front differentials are full floating type, But rear could be semi or full floating types

[trammway]

Phase two for Explorer Improvement plan

A. Snorkel installation

Finally I have decided to opt Tejas duct design for my snorkel installation, however now the query is which is the best snorkel duct material? Not sure if this sounds sense, but I wanted to ask anyway.

1. Steel duct with black paint on the outer surface
2. Stainless steel duct
3. Plastic duct
4. FRP duct

I read the following are the three most important reasons for installing snorkel

1. Cleaner input air
2. Cooler air
3. Water protection

Hence I believe there could be some characteristic of Steel, Stainless Steel, Plastic or FRP will have some advantage for snorkel duct (dust filter, air cooling, rust protection etc.)

B. Tin work for front driverside platform

C. Improved ground clearance

I appreciate the prodigy Janaiah, when I'm writing this post the Janaiah's special spring plate fabrication with helper plates are loaded to the Jeep for installation.

Thanks a ton to Fazal bhai for helping me with the procurement.

D. Legal papers

This is time for my jeep to go for Fitness Test, successfully 15 years passed and this test is to ensure the fitness for next five years.

Along with this FC task, I will be converting the annual tax component of my Classic to Life Tax. But then without you (Classic owners), it is not going to be possible as the RTO people are demanding a copy or invoice to calculate the tax. I request all the classic owners to help me with a copy of your old invoice.

E. Rims & Tyres

Last upgrade for this season is to have a 3 spoke alloys with at least 30" tyres - Please post your suggestions for good set of Offroad and Onroad capable tyres which could go with 15" 7.5J or 8J alloys.

[fazalaliadil]

Hi Shiva,
Your pumpkin looks good zinc plated.
Did you use longer bolts where the diff. guard fits or the same length bolts?
Looking forward to your report on "Janaiah springs".

Regards,

[Tejas@perioimpl]

I'd say stainless steel or steel with black paint.

Plastic may crack on impact during OTRs.

[trammway]

Originally Posted by fazalaliadil

Hi Shiva,
Your pumpkin looks good zinc plated.
Did you use longer bolts where the diff. guard fits or the same length bolts?
Looking forward to your report on "Janaiah springs".

Regards,

I don't know how long that zinc effect will last. The diff door was produced by PIC. I may have to paint it, let me see for some times if it lasts for a while.

Yes, the regular bolts will not suite for the diff. guard, we need to buy little extra length one.

Janaiah Spring will be installed on tuesday and I will surely post the reports.

Originally Posted by Tejas@perioimpl

I'd say stainless steel or steel with black paint.

Plastic may crack on impact during OTRs.

I'm thinking of the same line, however why not FRP? The recent FRP technologies are way forward and they are stronger than we think.

Just imagine a single composite fiber could hold the whole jeep. So What will be the effect if we fabricate the duct using FRP?

[Tejas@perioimpl]

Originally Posted by trammway

I'm thinking of the same line, however why not FRP? The recent FRP technologies are way forward and they are stronger than we think.

Just imagine a single composite fiber could hold the whole jeep. So What will be the effect if we fabricate the duct using FRP?

Cheaper. Much cheaper with steel. There's no added advantage with FRP.