[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Ferrari1976

Thanks again. I check with Surender cycles, he quoted 1200 per tyre!! Was a bit shocked since I did not expect it to be so costly. Is this the correct price?

He also suggested an alternative in Schwalbe (he could not remember the details) @1100 INR per tyre.

Any suggestions or alternatives?

Maxxis Detonator 26x1.50 on sale for 920 bucks here

http://onlinebicycles.in/product/max...tonator-m203p/

[ninjatalli]

Originally Posted by Ferrari1976

Thanks again. I check with Surender cycles, he quoted 1200 per tyre!! Was a bit shocked since I did not expect it to be so costly. Is this the correct price?

He also suggested an alternative in Schwalbe (he could not remember the details) @1100 INR per tyre.

Any suggestions or alternatives?

If you want good international brand based tires, be ready to plonk ~1k or more per tire.

Originally Posted by ebonho

Maxxis Detonator 26x1.50 on sale for 920 bucks here

http://onlinebicycles.in/product/max...tonator-m203p/

That is a pretty decent slick mtb tire. Had (have) it for almost 6 months and ~1000+ kms. Very durable and good tires.
And a decent deal; I paid 1200 odd for it last year.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

That is a pretty decent slick mtb tire. Had (have) it for almost 6 months and ~1000+ kms. Very durable and good tires.
And a decent deal; I paid 1200 odd for it last year.

Ninja, if everything goes as promised by the manufacturer (Ralco), I might get a set of these early next month

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shifti...ml#post3728367

A little Googling showed that they are a copy of the very popular MTB slick by Raleigh called Streetwise.

Size is again 26x1.50 (37-559).

My concern (something I had queried Prabuddha here on earlier as well) is the smooth profile rubber (no ridges/lines, dots, etc.) with only these L shaped rain(?) channels.

Will it be safe for cornering?

I know that in bikes, the smoother the rubber the more the contact and better the grip. Hence race slicks in the dry. Does that also hold true for cycles?

The reason bike tyres have channels as tread is mainly for aquaplaning. I read somewhere that because of the weight and the hugely narrower contact patch, cycles NEVER aquaplane! So theoretically this tyre should be ok. Am only concerned about the practicals.

Thanks, Doc

[ninjatalli]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Ninja, if everything goes as promised by the manufacturer (Ralco), I might get a set of these early next month

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shifti...ml#post3728367

...

My concern (something I had queried Prabuddha here on earlier as well) is the smooth profile rubber (no ridges/lines, dots, etc.) with only these L shaped rain(?) channels.

Will it be safe for cornering?

Theoretically these might not be a good set for the same reasons as above. Practically & realistically these would be more than sufficient for our kind of riding (unless you are planning to do some hardcore offtrail riding at high speeds).

Having said that, I could not find a lot of reviews on these tires (irrespective of going by either name) - not sure how puncture resistant or durable these are. And to me, those are more practically important aspects than chances of aquaplaning or cornering issues.

Originally Posted by download2live

Shame on me. My 11km ride takes gets done at 15km/hr. Only mitigating factor will be that the terrain is not flat. A bit hilly. But even on flat terrain I will not be nearing 20+ km. Mine is not a road bike. A steel commuter bike - Jamis Coda Sport.

Btw that is a very no-nonsense VFM steel frame bike - one that is used heavily by long distance commuters. Considered to be very durable and reliable!

And I wouldn't worry too much on the kmph factor. Every rider is different, and the comfort factor with his/her bike as well as the condition of the bike also makes a suitable impact on the speeds. Average of 15kmph is a pretty decent speed. Keep pushing (on speed and/or distance) and you could easily map your performance and gauge the improvements.

[ebonho]

Thanks for the advice Ninja. Will keep my current nylons on till the rains are done, and then try on the thinner smoother tyres.

[download2live]

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

Btw that is a very no-nonsense VFM steel frame bike - one that is used heavily by long distance commuters. Considered to be very durable and reliable!

Indeed they are. Very simple and just keep going. The consensus is that they outlast the rider.

omafiets.com.au/blogs/news/16625097-upgrading-your-jamis-coda-sport

Check out the last section of the webpage.
That guy covered a distance of around 3900Kms on his modified Coda Sport.

Need to buy the waterproof cover for the shoes. Once drenched they take ages to dry.

[FINTAIL]

The rains are here!

Cyclists; what do you do to protect your cycle from the wet elements?

Wax it; put a coat of oil over it; or not use the bicycle at all?

I have my own methods- shall share later. The chains get very wet during monsoons; though. Need to relube and clean frequently.

_________________________

P.S: The Bianchi Via Nirone went for it's first 'overhaul'. Certain parts which are not to my liking- will be replaced.

Might consider changing tires to slightly wider ones. Hunting for GatorSkins.

[ebonho]

BHPian sukiwa kindly came over to my place all the way across town on a Sunday morning to work on my bike and help me out with my front gear shifting issues.

Thanks a ton Suhas. Your gesture was greatly appreciated, and the mark of a true enthusiast!

The problem was two fold. One was that the chain was rubbing against the inside of the derailleur in some gears (noticed mainly on the middle chain ring.

We've managed to largely take care of that.

The other which we kind of have not is that the drop down (big to intermediate, intermediate to small) are smooth and achieved with a single click of the twist shifter.

But the climb ups (small to intermediate, intermediate to big) do not happen with just a simple click. You have to (I've learned this with experience - Suhas hadn't yet as it was not his bike) twist the shifter beyond the click point and hold it there as the chain climbs up and covers the desired chainring before letting go.

So its basically click + pull some more + hold and then the chain climbs. With pedaling of course.

Any pointers guys?

Or is this endemic to grip shifters?

[blackwasp]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

The rains are here!

Cyclists; what do you do to protect your cycle from the wet elements?

Wax it; put a coat of oil over it; or not use the bicycle at all?

An advantage of white cycles is that you get an impulse to clean the dirty bits as soon as it gets dirty. So after every ride I wipe down the cycle and have even taken it to a neighborhood car wash guy to wash the stubborn dirt once.

And yes one needs to clean and lube chain frequently. I dislike to get dirty but what needs to be done needs to be done.

5:30-6ish time is the time I go on Palm Beach road - not everyday but 3/4 times a week in rains. It's a complete different world out there.

[yogi1771]

Well the roadie is packed for the rains (polished &lubed) with a bit of WD40 on the bolts, etc. to prevent rusting. Use the MTB for the rains polished & lubed with WD40, after a ride I just use the blower to remove water & dirt from the cycle and lube the chains if necessary & a proper wash & polish after every 15-20 rides.


The products used:

[shipnil]

Originally Posted by ebonho

The other which we kind of have not is that the drop down (big to intermediate, intermediate to small) are smooth and achieved with a single click of the twist shifter.

But the climb ups (small to intermediate, intermediate to big) do not happen with just a simple click. You have to (I've learned this with experience - Suhas hadn't yet as it was not his bike) twist the shifter beyond the click point and hold it there as the chain climbs up and covers the desired chainring before letting go.

Ebonho, what essentially you are doing is giving the cable some additional pull. This additional pull effectively makes derailleur to pull the chain from smaller cog to next bigger one. As discussed earlier, what you need to do is tighten the cable to increase tension in it. Easiest way is by cable adjuster.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shipnil

Ebonho, what essentially you are doing is giving the cable some additional pull. This additional pull effectively makes derailleur to pull the chain from smaller cog to next bigger one. As discussed earlier, what you need to do is tighten the cable to increase tension in it. Easiest way is by cable adjuster.

Ya you are right. Extra pull beyond the indexed "click" point. And I forgot to mention, that to actually ensure the exact amount of pull, I usually look down to see the chain climb on to and cover the desired bigger chain ring. Though I've developed a feel for it now, I really do wish the same thing could be achieved with just a simple click.

We have adjusted both the barrel adjuster (for cable tension) as well as tuned the High and Low screws on the derailleur.

I've actually developed a nasty blister on my left thumb from all the trial and error testing and adjusting .....

Today I'm thinking of getting the cable replaced to see if things improve. Original Shimano inner. Do I need to replace the outer as well?

[shipnil]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Ya you are right. Extra pull beyond the indexed "click" point. And I forgot to mention, that to actually ensure the exact amount of pull, I usually look down to see the chain climb on to and cover the desired bigger chain ring. Though I've developed a feel for it now, I really do wish the same thing could be achieved with just a simple click.

We have adjusted both the barrel adjuster (for cable tension) as well as tuned the High and Low screws on the derailleur.

I've actually developed a nasty blister on my left thumb from all the trial and error testing and adjusting .....

Today I'm thinking of getting the cable replaced to see if things improve. Original Shimano inner. Do I need to replace the outer as well?

Not sure if you have done this but have you tried to completely unscrew the cable from derailleur then put it back with good tension (not maximum, it creates its own issues) and then adjust the barrel adjuster? Without this however much you adjust the barrel adjuster, it would still not give you enough tension to set it right.

I am not sure how significant role original vs. any indian cable would play in addressing the issue, but the most important issue is the movement has to be very smooth through the outer. The outer needs to be changed only if the new cable does not move freely.

[ACM]

How does one decide that a chain needs to be replaced?

A cycle let to be in the elements for a year will have a very rusted chain for sure especially if it was not lubricated prior to being left to the weather.

So should one replace a very rusted chain (1 years worth not 3) or does one get it serviced?

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by ACM

How does one decide that a chain needs to be replaced?

So should one replace a very rusted chain (1 years worth not 3) or does one get it serviced?

Knowing how corrosive the humid Bombay weather is- I'd say replace the chain.

That said; have seen instances of cycle chains lasting well over 6 years- if not more.

You don't want a chain failure; do you? Trust me; it had happened to me once in my older BSA. The chain links came apart.

Not a very good situation to be in; chain failure 15 kilometers from home. Tire punctures are manageable; but chain failures are extremely inconvenient.

All said and done; I'd say- Replace the chains. Personally; I replace them at ~3k kilometer intervals.