[navin]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

A 4-channel amp makes more sense, since while adding a sub (listening to a good system always shows up the insufficient low-bass in your system, so it is always a matter of time before one feels the need for it) the tray ovals can be shifted to the HU internal amp, and the sub connected to the freed up channels in bridge mode.

in addition to the above I'd like to add the following:

In most installs the front door speakers are less efficient than rear deck mounted speakers. This is because a speaker system is a combination of the speaker, it's enclosure and in this case the realtion of the location of the speaker vis-a-vis the listenter.

A door speaker operates with a small and acoustically lossy rear enclosure (namely the door) the rear speaker operates in a large (so large that loss is not a significant concern) enclosure (namely the trunk). All things remaining equal a speaker in a large box will be more efficient (be able to produce higher sound levels per electrical watt used) than one in a small box (even so a lossy box).

Hence to compesante for this difference in efficiency it makes sense to make more electrical watts available to the speaker that is LESS efficient.

There are 2 added benefits.

a. One can HPF the front door speaker using the crossover in the amp hence protecting from the very low (sub 50Hz) frequencies tht might stress the mechanical elements of the speaker

b. A speaker in a larger box tends to have less protection from it's box against excursion (mechanical stress). Since it has less protection it is prudent to limit the number of watts it receives.

I hope all this helps. Sam used to often say I tend to confuse (rather than clear up) people with what I post. Alas Sam is not around anymore to "protect" you guys from the ramblings of an old man. :(

In short: Use the amplifier for the door mounted speakers and the HU's internal amp for the rear deck speakers.

[coolkurt]

I have a 2007 Honda Civic. I'm looking to upgrade the speakers and am a novice
when it comes to car audio.

I am looking to do an upgrade in 2
stages. First the speakers. then 8-9
months down the line, add a sub nd amp.

Can anyone suggest some good speakers?
Should I go for component speakers at
the front and co-axials at the back? any
particular speakers and / or brand of
speakers recommended? And can I stick to stock tweeters? ( Civic has a 4 speakers + 2 tweeters setup)

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by coolkurt

... can I stick to stock tweeters? ( Civic has a 4 speakers + 2 tweeters setup)

You have components in front in your Civic - midbass, tweeters and a cross-over together. No, you shouldn't take away the midbass and use only the tweeters. That will cause a severe mismatch.

Best would be to go to dealers and audition whatever you can get - Infinity, Bull, JBL, Morel, DLS, Boston, Polk, JL, ... You will like the sound signature of some, and hate some. Let your ears decide.

[glidealong]

I have taken delivery of Brio SMT.

The OEM ICE is nice, it sounds good when I am playing solo instrumentals, especially accoustic guitar - Trace Bundy. The mid bass that it delivers is great, compared to what i am getting from Pioneer HU, Pioneer 6500F amps, infinity primus and kappa components in my swift vdi. But when it comes to ambient, post rock, shoegaze , electronica kinda genres, the Honda OEM ICE loses out in its ability to separate the instruments. The sound is fatiguing , whereas i can keep on listening for hours in my Swift with custom setup. Must be for the components.

Now that I am thinking about selling the Swift, I am considering lifting some of the setup for improving Brios ICE.

Does anyone know if the Honda Brios ICE quality would improve if i just throw in the pioneer amp into Brio?

Or is it a must to get components in the front?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by glidealong

... Does anyone know if the Honda Brios ICE quality would improve if i just throw in the pioneer amp into Brio?

Or is it a must to get components in the front?

Just putting in the amp is not going to change anything in the Brio (other than ability to go louder without distorting). The main difference is the components. If you are selling the Swift, put the Brio OE speakers into it before selling - and take out the rest of the stuff.

[coolkurt]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

You have components in front in your Civic - midbass, tweeters and a cross-over together. No, you shouldn't take away the midbass and use only the tweeters. That will cause a severe mismatch.

Best would be to go to dealers and audition whatever you can get - Infinity, Bull, JBL, Morel, DLS, Boston, Polk, JL, ... You will like the sound signature of some, and hate some. Let your ears decide.

Thanks for the reply. So if I do want to change the speakers, I will have to put in component speakers at the front and co-axial speakers at the back?

Okay. I'll do that. But any idea about the min wattage of the speakers? If I'm looking to add a good sub and amp later?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by coolkurt

... But any idea about the min wattage of the speakers? ...

Don't worry about the wattage of the speakers, concentrate on whether you like the sound signature of the speaker. Most decent ones will be in the 70-110W RMS range, whereas your amp would be 40-60W RMS per channel.

[nitrous]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Just putting in the amp is not going to change anything in the Brio (other than ability to go louder without distorting). The main difference is the components. If you are selling the Swift, put the Brio OE speakers into it before selling - and take out the rest of the stuff.

That's right.
OE speakers are mostly made of paper cones and foam surrounds to keep costs as low as possible (read "free" )

Apart from the horrible audio quality from these OE paper speakers, their tolerance to stronger amplified inputs is low, which could in the worst case result in a blown amplifier.

[rayjaycleoful]

Can an aux line be added to a kenwood kdc-mp333?

[offroad_maniac]

Was reading last night regarding different types of woofer enclosers. Came to know that the usual Boxed type of enclosers are good for tight & accurate bass, but wont give that much of a boom.
Whileas the vented type enclosures are best for boom boom type effect as it allows for more woofer flex.

Now the query is, which type of box should I use for my 12" single JBL sub? Currently its fitted in sealed box. Will it cause any issues to woofer if air flow is restricted?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by offroad_maniac

... which type of box should I use for my 12" single JBL sub? Currently its fitted in sealed box. Will it cause any issues to woofer if air flow is restricted?

That question can only be answered by you! If you like boomy bass, a ported box is the way to go. BTW, a good sub in a good ported box will not produce boomy bass, but controlled loud bass (due to more efficient energy conversion). Maybe not as tight as a sealed box, but close to it. What say LBM paaji?

No, the sub will not suffer any ill-effects due to the restrictions imposed by a sealed box.

[DRIVE_ADDICT]

I'am planning to add comp's to my Figo's OEM audio system.

I have a Sony 4 channel amp comes with 'High level input' along with RCA. Since my Figo's OEM audio system doesn't comes with a pre-out, the installer suggest that we can feed in the amp with High level input, which nullifies the need for Hi-Lo converter.

Is there any -ves in using the High level input?

[navin]

Originally Posted by DRIVE_ADDICT

Is there any -ves in using the High level input?

Not reallyexcept the "Hi-Lo converter" or Line-level adapter as it is also known needs to be really good as a bad one can introduce engine whine into the system.

[dilsoft]

Hi guys,

I have an Sx4. Today I got alphine MRX-65, and a rockford sub R1s412 installed. 2 channels amp connected to front components (polk) and the rest bridged to the sub. Rears are left to the head unit as it is. But I realise that rears lack the clarity. So I want to go for a monoblock connedted to the sub and use those channels to the rear ovals.

Please suggest me a class d matching amp for R1S412.

[sudeep11787]

Hii BHPians !
A small issue !
I recently upgraded my audio system.. Setup is as follows:
HU : Pioneer 3150 UB
Speakers: Front: JBL CS 4 (4" Coaxial)
Speakers Rear: Pioneer A394 (6x9)

Upgraded with:
AMP: Blaupunkt 4 channel : Gma 455 I guess with bills n warranty
Sub: Pioneer 12" bass tube with bills n warranty
Wiring: OOPS , A substandard BOSS. It's not good as it costed me just 1000 bucks.

Overall soundquality is good except the soundstage thing.

I am sick of cars catching fires so frequently nowadays. It even worried me to an extent that i almost sold my amp and sub.

I also have horns and 100/90 bulbs with relays.
I want no fire hazard, is it safe to keep on using the cheap wiring ? And what to do in the case of short? How can i prevent it?

Admins kindly move it to the appropriate thread as required.

Thanks