[arunphilip]

Originally Posted by samaspire

1) What size are these fuses? Mini?
2) Can/How do I tap the 3 pronged fuses?
3) Which fuses can I use safely in each box?
4) What amp fuse to use for the accessory socket?
5) What amp fuse to use for the DRL?
6) 5A for the Dashcam, right?

Those fuses look to be more like Micro2 and Micro3 fuses (with 2 and 3 prongs respectively), since the mini ones have prominently tapered prongs, although the angle of the photo might be misleading. See this Wikipedia image for an illustration:

The Wikipedia page on car fuses gives the sizes of different fuses, so you could measure them to confirm:

Alternatively, you could ask Ford service to confirm the type of fuse, and compare it against what is used in the EcoSport (the EcoSport uses mini fuses).

Use the passenger compartment fuse box to wire the dashcam and 12V accessory sockets (since these sit in the passenger compartment, you don't have to run wires through the firewall), and the engine compartment fuse box for the DRLs. Don't use the battery fuse box for any additions at all, since its a high-current fuse box with specific & core uses (starter, ECU, etc.). I'm not sure if the 3-prong fuse sockets can be tapped, and all the fuse taps I've seen are the 2-pronged variety.

I'm not sure what fuse the DRL will require, but the DRL installation instructions should specify it. For the 12V accessory socket, your Aspire uses 20A fuses for the built-in socket (see fuse #6 in the engine compartment). You might wish to go in for a lower rated fuse to prevent excessive draw from the passenger compartment fuse box, but sized to give you enough power for your accessories. For instance, a 10A fuse will itself give 120W of DC power. If you're planning on using the accessory socket to power electronics (phone/tablet chargers, etc. or anything that uses a USB interface) then 5A to 10A should suffice. However, if you're using electrical items like a car cooler, then check its instructions to see its power draw and size the fuse accordingly.

For the dashcam, fit the smallest capacity fuse (e.g. 2A or 5A) you can lay your hands on. Realistically, a dashcam will draw under 1A of current from the fuse box (since even 1A at the fuse box is 12W of power). Therefore, ensure that the dashcam kit you install (to convert the car's 12V DC to the required 5V DC) has an inline fuse.

The Garmin hardwire kit that I use has an inline fuse in the cylindrical container on the red wire. As an aside, on the topic of fuse sizing, note that this hard-wiring kit supplies just 0.5A current at 5V DC (i.e. 2.5W power) at its output, which means the power draw at the fuse box is roughly 0.3A even factoring in DC-DC conversion losses. It just goes to show how any fuse that we install to tap power for a dashcam is grossly oversized, which highlights the importance of an appropriately sized inline fuse.

[kavensri]

I am using mini805 dashcam which is currently powered through 12V power socket. Recently i have purchased hardwire kit from aliexpress and now i want to connect it to my dashcam. I do not know anything about this and would like to know if anyone can help me in doing this DYI job.

[samaspire]

Originally Posted by arunphilip

Those fuses look to be more like Micro2 and Micro3 fuses (with 2 and 3 prongs respectively), since the mini ones have prominently tapered prongs, although the angle of the photo might be misleading.

I will measure them again, but I think they are micro2 and micro3. In this case what type/size Fuse tap should I order?

[arunphilip]

Originally Posted by samaspire

I will measure them again, but I think they are micro2 and micro3. In this case what type/size Fuse tap should I order?

If it is definitely a Micro2 fuse, then you'd need to look for Micro2 fuse taps or ATR fuse taps (ATR is the name of the blade style). For instance, a quick search on Amazon.com gives this Lumision Micro2 fuse tap, and AliExpress also has a lot of choices.

[shifu]

Originally Posted by arunphilip

If it is definitely a Micro2 fuse, then you'd need to look for Micro2 fuse taps or ATR fuse taps (ATR is the name of the blade style). For instance, a quick search on Amazon.com gives this Lumision Micro2 fuse tap, and AliExpress also has a lot of choices.

Amazon India has this. I have ordered it last week to fix a accessory socket in my Nano. I should receive the package in another 2 weeks...

[arunphilip]

Originally Posted by shifu

Amazon India has this. I have ordered it last week to fix a accessory socket in my Nano. I should receive the package in another 2 weeks...

Unfortunately, that is an APM/ATM size, which is the mini fuse, and not the Micro2 (ATR) fuse size that Samarth needs :-(

[shifu]

Originally Posted by arunphilip

Unfortunately, that is an APM/ATM size, which is the mini fuse, and not the Micro2 (ATR) fuse size that Samarth needs :-(

Oops. My bad!This is the link to the micro fuse...

[samaspire]

Originally Posted by shifu

Oops. My bad!This is the link to the micro fuse...

Don't think so. That's for low profile fuses. Mine is full length.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by samaspire

1) What size are these fuses? Mini?

Micro2 (ATR) Fuse Tap Cable

https://www.amazon.com/Lumision-SHIP.../dp/B00OZFNJI6

Micro3 (ATL) Cable

http://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/ca....html?limit=45

Originally Posted by samaspire

2) Can/How do I tap the 3 pronged fuses?

See the above link if useful for tapping the Micro3 fuse.

Originally Posted by samaspire

3) Which fuses can I use safely in each box?

ONLY use the ones in the passenger compartment. Don't go to anything else for dashcam, DRL.

Originally Posted by samaspire

4) What amp fuse to use for the accessory socket?

Four empty slots (Read 'Not Used') are there for you to use. No. 14, 20, 21 (Micro2) and No. 20 (Micro3).

Procuring a Micro2 fuse tap cable seems slightly easier, for your Dashcam, DRL and additional accessory socket, you can draw power from the three unused slots of Micro2.

Originally Posted by samaspire

5) What amp fuse to use for the DRL?

I remember adding 5A

Originally Posted by samaspire

6) 5A for the Dashcam, right?

Yes 5A is sufficient.

Originally Posted by arunphilip

Those fuses look to be more like Micro2 and Micro3 fuses (with 2 and 3 prongs respectively).

These type fuses are less used IMO. Very difficult to get the fuse tap cable for the Micro2 and Micro3 ones at sensible prices.

[samaspire]

Confirmation that the fuses in the Ford Aspire are Micro2.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Four empty slots (Read 'Not Used') are there for you to use. No. 14, 20, 21 (Micro2) and No. 20 (Micro3).

Why do the "Not Used" slots have fuses in them?

If I can use the 4 four empty slots, why do I need a fuse tap. Why not something like this?



(From your link)

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by samaspire

Confirmation that the fuses in the Ford Aspire are Micro2.

1 of the "Not Used" is Micro3. Rest three are Micro2.

Originally Posted by samaspire

Why do the "Not Used" slots have fuses in them?

Not sure why. Can you just check if these "Not Used" fuses have power connections (wired). Can you use a 12V tester to check?!

Originally Posted by samaspire

If I can use the 4 four empty slots, why do I need a fuse tap. Why not something like this?

You can use it but I am not sure if how safe these things are. Quality matters IMO.

[samaspire]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Not sure why. Can you just check if these "Not Used" fuses have power connections (wired). Can you use a 12V tester to check?!

I will have to order even the 12V tester online - not able to find a proper one in my town.

One doubt regarding that:
From what I can see, the contact points for the fuse are deep inside the fuse box, accessible only to blade tip of the fuse. Would a tester reach in that far?

[Mr.Boss]

Originally Posted by samaspire

If I can use the 4 four empty slots, why do I need a fuse tap. Why not something like this?

Juggads work, but not for ever.

Assuming the wire is soldered to the input side of fuse, your circuit will be running without a fuse at all (works even with the blown fuse)
or
if the wire is soldered to the output side, you should repeat the job of soldering every time the fuse is blown (or replaced)

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by samaspire

From what I can see, the contact points for the fuse are deep inside the fuse box, accessible only to blade tip of the fuse. Would a tester reach in that far?

A 12V tester pen would reach the inside of the fuse.

[samaspire]

Originally Posted by arunphilip

3. Test the Fuse Socket

For this step, you'll need an automotive tester. I used this Draper Low-Voltage Tester.

Attachment 1405239

Originally Posted by samaspire

I will have to order even the 12V tester online - not able to find a proper one in my town.

Can't I use a multi-meter instead of this tester?