[mithun]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Stock wheel spanner with a 3/4 inch steel pipe of 1 meter length to act as leverage when needed should be good enough.

If you want something fancy this telescopic handle works very well. I use this
https://www.amazon.in/TSTOP-23768-55...%2C750&sr=8-17

Isn't that telescopic tyre wrench made of alloy steel(and not chrome vanadium) prone to breakage when we apply strong pressure?

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by carthick1000

if you really cannot exert enough torque with stock wheel spanner, use biomechanics to your advantage ...

Stand on it! I have very little arm muscle, and this has almost always worked for me. On one occasion it didn't. If the bolts have been overtightened with an impact wrench it may take more. I could not free the bolts. Neither could the "puncher" guy across the road (actually a 2-wheeler shop). Best I could manage was getting the tyre inflated so I could reach the tyre shop.

[Jaguar]

Originally Posted by Aroy

If the lug nuts are not super tight then a stock wheel spanner will do the job. A cross wheel spanner is easier to handle, so use it if you have one.

If the lugs are super tight then you may need some more leverage. In that case an extension rod on your 1/2" ratchet or a pipe on the stock wheel spanner is needed.

So for normal use cases, a cross-spanner is more convenient. That is what I wanted to know

Originally Posted by carthick1000

If you have used a torque wrench to tighten the wheel lug nuts in the first place, then a Stock wheel spanner or a cross wheel spanner should be sufficient for normal passenger cars.

My suggestion is to spend on a quality torque wrench if you can. And btw, if you really cannot exert enough torque with stock wheel spanner, use biomechanics to your advantage instead of carrying around a breaker bar. ie put on gloves or wrap a thick cloth around the spanner handle to increase the grip-span diameter which effectively help you apply more torque.

The thing is, the service center and tyre shop fellows use impact wrenches and over-tighten the nuts.

When it comes to biomechanics vs physics, won't physics always win ? I have resorted to standing on the stock wrench to loosen the nuts as Thad mentioned. Hearing about thinker handles helping for the first time.

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Stock wheel spanner with a 3/4 inch steel pipe of 1 meter length to act as leverage when needed should be good enough.

If you want something fancy this telescopic handle works very well.

Originally Posted by mithun

Isn't that telescopic tyre wrench made of alloy steel(and not chrome vanadium) prone to breakage when we apply strong pressure?

I also have the same concern regarding the durability of these.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by mithun

Isn't that telescopic tyre wrench made of alloy steel(and not chrome vanadium) prone to breakage when we apply strong pressure?

I have stood on it a few times and it has not broken till now.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by Jaguar

Need thoughts on which is the best tool for removing car lug nuts
1. The stock wheel spanner
2. A breaker bar along with the stock spanner
3. 1/2" ratchet drive
4. Cross wheel spanner

I haven't have had any issues with the stock wheel spanners. However, when I upgraded to alloys from stock steel rims (Maruti Zen), I found that the stock wheel spanner wouldn't fit due to the alloy design against the stock wheels. Then I bought a Taparia steel L-socket bar (3/4") and a good quality 19mm socket to go with it. The Taparia bar is literally indestructible.

In my other car; Civic, the stock wheel spanner works well with the stock alloys and to loosen or tighten, I always stand and even slightly jump on the spanner.

Regards,
Saket

[mithun]

Originally Posted by saket77

I haven't have had any issues with the stock wheel spanners. However, when I upgraded to alloys from stock steel rims (Maruti Zen), I found that the stock wheel spanner wouldn't fit due to the alloy design against the stock wheels. Then I bought a Taparia steel L-socket bar (3/4") and a good quality 19mm socket to go with it. The Taparia bar is literally indestructible.

In my other car; Civic, the stock wheel spanner works well with the stock alloys and to loosen or tighten, I always stand and even slightly jump on the spanner.

Regards,
Saket

You meant this: https://www.amazon.in/TAPARIA-SOCKET.../dp/B07N5K97VL

Right?

[saket77]

Originally Posted by mithun

You meant this: https://www.amazon.in/TAPARIA-SOCKET.../dp/B07N5K97VL

Right?

The handle bar is longer than this one and 3/4 socket size. I bought it offline some 9-10 years ago.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by mithun

You meant this: https://www.amazon.in/TAPARIA-SOCKET.../dp/B07N5K97VL

Right?

The joint between the L and the extension is the weak link. The extensions are supposed to take longitudinal load and not transverse, that may loosen and ultimately spoil the joint.

I prefer a longer L (say 250mm or longer) which is available from some specialist manufacturers.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Socket.../dp/B07XXYJ11H

https://www.grainger.com/category/to...ebParentSkuKey

https://www.amazon.in/TEKTON-15356-2.../dp/B00MWVAUT6

[mithun]

Originally Posted by Aroy

The joint between the L and the extension is the weak link. The extensions are supposed to take longitudinal load and not transverse, that may loosen and ultimately spoil the joint.

I prefer a longer L (say 250mm or longer) which is available from some specialist manufacturers.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Socket.../dp/B07XXYJ11H

https://www.grainger.com/category/to...ebParentSkuKey

https://www.amazon.in/TEKTON-15356-2.../dp/B00MWVAUT6

You meant this: https://www.flipkart.com/good-year-l...ESTCTN9ZBAJCLS

Right?

[sagarpadaki]

Here is a 15 inch breaker bar from a reputed brand

https://www.amazon.in/GROZ-applicati...08S7RPV13&th=1

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by mithun

You meant this: https://www.flipkart.com/good-year-l...ESTCTN9ZBAJCLS

Right?

That seems to be only 10", a longer one say 15" would have more leverage.

[Amrik Singh]

Originally Posted by Aroy

That seems to be only 10", a longer one say 15" would have more leverage.

It may not be possible to store longer lever in Car. However steel pipe with internal diameter sufficient to take in the arm of this will provide additional leverage required. So you can slide the pipe over this as and when required beside ease of storage.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Amrik Singh

It may not be possible to store longer lever in Car. However steel pipe with internal diameter sufficient to take in the arm of this will provide additional leverage required. So you can slide the pipe over this as and when required beside ease of storage.

The boot has enough space for a 30" pipe let alone 15" one. I keep a steel rod of 48" in my boot for emergency use.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Have about 10 meters of exposed CPVC pipe taking hot water from a centralised heater to 4 bathrooms. What can be used to insulate it? Had searched Amazon and found 3 things -

1. Nitrile foam class 0
2. Gasket foam.
3. Aluminium butyl tape.

Which of these, (or alternatives) would be suitable for my purpose?

TIA.

[Amrik Singh]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

Have about 10 meters of exposed CPVC pipe taking hot water from a centralised heater to 4 bathrooms. What can be used to insulate it? Had searched Amazon and found 3 things -

1. Nitrile foam class 0
2. Gasket foam.
3. Aluminium butyl tape.

Which of these, (or alternatives) would be suitable for my purpose?

TIA.

Technically speaking - Closed Cell Elastomeric Foam Tape. I don't know under which brand they sell here. It is 50 mm wide x 3 mm, Thick, adhesive backed and can be spiral rolled over the pipe.