[diyguy]

Originally Posted by R2D2

If a battery feels warm (little over body temperature) but not unusually hot to the touch it is ok.

Thanks, I did this test and both my batteries are absolutely cool to the touch. They are functioning well but I am seeing a constant current on one phase and was thinking it might be due to a bad battery, reading the experiences a few posts back.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by diyguy

Thanks, I did this test and both my batteries are absolutely cool to the touch. They are functioning well but I am seeing a constant current on one phase and was thinking it might be due to a bad battery, reading the experiences a few posts back.

Are the batteries in series or parallel? Did you use a clamp meter or ammeter to measure the current? How much was it? If it exceeds 1A over a period of time, please check your inverter's charging circuit. Amps should drop to <1A as the battery charges up to 100%. If you have a DMM also check the charging voltage. Float should be between 13.2-13.8v. Also, how frequently do you need to top off the DW in the batteries?

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Back in the day... well, more like back in my dad's day (pre-alternator, etc) it was important to have a battery charger at home. Being unable to start the car on frosty mornings and all that. In more recent decades, when I have been caught out by car-battery failure, it has been out on the road anyway. And it has been end of life for a previously completely reliable battery.

But, would it be worth keeping a charger for inverter, and even car, batteries, that can do this sort of reconditioning? Would it be expensive?

Basic battery charges would be quite inexpensive. As far as I was concerned, I made my own - Transformer with a few taps + tap selector switch, Selenium rectifier and an ammeter, all told under Rs 100, 40 years ago. Some thing like this
https://www.amazon.in/BATTERY-CHARGE...attery+charger

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Basic battery charges would be quite inexpensive.

I remember them as being inexpensive, but does it take anything special to recondition the battery?

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

I remember them as being inexpensive, but does it take anything special to recondition the battery?

There is a way of doing this manually. Use a simple charger with separate voltage and amp controls and built-in meters preferably digital for accuracy.

Bump up the voltage to 15.8 keep a close eye on the battery water level and temperature. Stop earlier if the battery gets very hot or over 50 Centigrade. Continue till the Sp. Gr of all 6 cells is the same or in about 4-6 hours whichever is earlier. Read more here:

Equalization

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Are the batteries in series or parallel? Did you use a clamp meter or ammeter to measure the current?

the batteries are independent and connected to two inverters and power different rooms in my house. I checked the digital home meter that is fitted by the government electricity board. It shows me a consistent amperage of 2A, but this could be other devices in the line. I am yet to isolate only the inverters and investigate further. I have seen the current shoot to 4A when I switch on the inverters even after a two minute shutdown. I top off the water in one battery every three months. The other one does not seem to be ever need a top up, but it works just fine. Will check the voltage across the terminals using a multimeter.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by diyguy

the batteries are independent and connected to two inverters and power different rooms in my house. I checked the digital home meter that is fitted by the government electricity board. It shows me a consistent amperage of 2A, but this could be other devices in the line. I am yet to isolate only the inverters and investigate further. I have seen the current shoot to 4A when I switch on the inverters even after a two minute shutdown. I top off the water in one battery every three months. The other one does not seem to be ever need a top up, but it works just fine. Will check the voltage across the terminals using a multimeter.

@diyguy, I was referring amps in the DC line i.e. the leads that go from the inverter to the battery. I thought it is that reading never goes below 2A which was a genuine surprise to me. So you have 2 batteries and 2 inverters. 1 battery to 1 inverter, right?

You can isolate the UPS/inverters to check the loads. Pretty easy to do if required. Just pull the plugs of all appliances on that phase and check the load. The 4A you see after power returns is probably a temporary surge caused by the inverters which begin charging the batteries. Check them a few minutes after power returns to check their steady-state power draw.

[sgiitk]

Lithium batteries -- are they coming?

I am wondering whether Lithium Batteries are available. Can they be used. They will be far more compact and have a longer life. The negatives may be compatibility with existing systems, and costs. With prices dropping price may not be that big a criterion soon.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

[b]The negatives may be compatibility with existing systems, and costs. With prices dropping price may not be that big a criterion soon.

Yes Li batteries are coming and prices will eventually drop to more affordable levels.

But my biggest concern about Li Ion/Polymer is temperature sensitivity and their literally explosive nature which can be a fire hazard. Not yet convinced they are suitable for hot tropical countries like India where even regular inspection and maintenance are taken lightly.

PS - As I recall there were a few posts about a Li battery based inverter on this thread.

[Red Liner]

Guys,

I have a UPS at work, that has 22 Exide EL+ 80AH Tubular batteries connected in series. One battery has conked out, and I need to replace it.

Checking online, and there are no 80AH tubular batteries available. Can I go with a 100AH? Or will this create a problem? What are my options? I wonder if a 100 AH battery will up the voltage to the UPS and screw things up.

Now with this errant battery, the whole UPS ceases to function, and we're having a torrid time at work. Just have to get that replaced asap.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Guys,

I have a UPS at work, that has 22 Exide EL+ 80AH Tubular batteries connected in series. One battery has conked out, and I need to replace it.

Checking online, and there are no 80AH tubular batteries available. Can I go with a 100AH? Or will this create a problem? What are my options? I wonder if a 100 AH battery will up the voltage to the UPS and screw things up.

You can add that 100 AH battery and it won't mess up the voltage. Only thing is it might not be charged at the right current. But in the overall scheme of things, it won't be a big deal.

[hserus]

Any decent battery dealer should have 80 AH batteries. Amazon only seems to offer shady and unknown brands online for 80 AH, so just find the nearest dealer and have him install the new battery and meanwhile do any general maintenance work on your UPS that might be necessary as well.

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Guys,

I have a UPS at work, that has 22 Exide EL+ 80AH Tubular batteries connected in series. One battery has conked out, and I need to replace it.

Checking online, and there are no 80AH tubular batteries available. Can I go with a 100AH? Or will this create a problem? What are my options? I wonder if a 100 AH battery will up the voltage to the UPS and screw things up.

Now with this errant battery, the whole UPS ceases to function, and we're having a torrid time at work. Just have to get that replaced asap.

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by Prowler

it won't be a big deal.

Originally Posted by hserus

Any decent battery dealer should have 80 AH batteries.

Checking with the local guys now, to find this exact EL+ series of 80AH batteries. They come with an amazing 5 year warranty from Exide. I think I will just go with it for the peace of mind for good.

Now to find the battery...

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by Prowler

You can add that 100 AH battery and it won't mess up the voltage. Only thing is it might not be charged at the right current. But in the overall scheme of things, it won't be a big deal.

I am getting overall feedback that either the 80 ah series is not in stock or has been discontinued. In this case, if i put the 100 ah, the only issue is the battery will not be optimally charged, therefore reducing the life of the battery, is it not?

[aim120]

Assuming your EL+ is more then 5 years old, the the capacity of all the batteries will be much lower then 80ah. My 40ah EL(not EL+)after 7 years of use, its capacity is down to around 20ah.

So putting a 100ah in series will cause a imbalance in both charge and discharge cycle. During discharge the other batteries will get discharge to lower voltage levels or deep discharge level and the ups will only see the sum voltage of all batteries in series. The newer battery beside it being a higher capacity means it will have a higher voltage then older batteries.