[AstaAddict]

Originally Posted by kraft.wagen

Unfortunately Carfax is not a single source of truth. Dealers/Car Owners can easily not report any service records or accident history.
Always take the car for valuation to Carmax or one of the service shops when buying from independent sellers.
Or you may have to spend a few extra $$ to get car from a reputed dealership.

Agreed. The 21 point inspection at Sears Auto is another good option which we have in our area. They charge reasonably, $21 if I remember it correct. Lots of people just blindly rely on CarFax and I was a part of that band. Just this week I realized that the report generation date of CarFax also needs to be considered. They also print a time & date stamp which the dealers can easily change by altering the time zone settings on their computers while printing the report.

[kraft.wagen]

Originally Posted by AstaAddict

Agreed. The 21 point inspection at Sears Auto is another good option which we have in our area. They charge reasonably, $21 if I remember it correct. Lots of people just blindly rely on CarFax and I was a part of that band. Just this week I realized that the report generation date of CarFax also needs to be considered. They also print a time & date stamp which the dealers can easily change by altering the time zone settings on their computers while printing the report.

Also CARFAX is not updated regularly, I think every 3-6months kinda thing.

Like Jeroen mentioned, if you feel the seller is not genuine jus walk away. And look at the recall listing esp if its a Honda or Toyota.

[AstaAddict]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Now the good news: the number of good second hand cars in the USA or Western Europe for that matter is absolutely staggering! So if for whatever reason you have a bad feeling about a car or the dealer, move on quickly. You have only lost some of your time, chalk it up to experience.

Jeroen

Absolutely true! There is no dearth of cars or dealers here in the USA so we always have the leverage of choosing the best. None of the dealers I've met till now were willing to loose potential customers like me and the amount of follow-up they do is just mind boggling.

[amitoj]

Originally Posted by kraft.wagen

Also CARFAX is not updated regularly, I think every 3-6months kinda thing.

Another thing that is known to happen is that you buy a car with a clean CarFax report, and then a couple of years later you go to sell the car, you find out that CarFax has updated their report to include an accident or total loss that happened before you purchased the car!

[vineethvazhayil]

Originally Posted by amitoj

Another thing that is known to happen is that you buy a car with a clean CarFax report, and then a couple of years later you go to sell the car, you find out that CarFax has updated their report to include an accident or total loss that happened before you purchased the car!

Talking about which, this just was in the news yesterday Carfax reports - how reliable?

With the quality of bodywork and repairs, it's kind of hard to tell visually if a car was in an accident, even if you doubt carfax reports. I would only be afraid of cars with damage to their structural frame and airbag deployment mechanism - they are not the same anymore after a crash.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by vineethvazhayil

I would only be afraid of cars with damage to their structural frame and airbag deployment mechanism - they are not the same anymore after a crash.

Done properly there is no reason to worry. Actually these days, modern repair facilities can often repair even structural damages within tighter tolerances then the car was manufactured at. Airbags just get replaced, including sensors.

Look at it this way; I you buy a repaired, 10 year old car that has been in an accident that set of the airbags you are buying a 10 year old car with brand new air bags and sensors.

Which one, do you think statistically would have a bigger chance of the airbag failing:

- a 10 year old car with the original air bags and sensors
- a 10 year old car, repaired, with brand new air bags and sensors

The trick is of course, the repairs need to be done properly. In the USA and Europe, as long as the repair work was carried out as 'insurance' it will be done properly. Insurance companies are very particular how they want the repairs carried out, because the car will remain under the same insurance and as they are the ones that inspect the damage, authorise the repair etc. they have a big stake in ensuring it gets done properly.

Back in the Netherlands through my contacts in the various car owners club, we arranged various excursions. Every other year or so, we usually went and see a car repair shop. It is truly amazing what these shops can do.

Jeroen

[GullwingGT]

Time to buy my first car in the US !

I am graduating in a month from my masters and need to get a car. I initially planned to get a Mustang Ecoboost premium MT or a Challenger V6 SXT Plus.

But I don't have any credit history and I feel this might hamper the loan process or even the possibility of getting a new car. So what do you guys suggest should I buy a used one and save some cash for the first year?
And if used one I will only go for a VW CC .

I will spend anywhere between 29K to 34K on the new cars for the above models and if VW CC then it should be between 15K and 18K for a 2012 or a 2013 model. I checked this in Northeastern region NY and MA. Most probably my first job would be in these states.

[Jomz]

Originally Posted by GullwingGT

Time to buy my first car in the US !

.

You sure a huge torque RWD is what you want in NY & MA?? I would suggest waiting for the Ford RS.

Anyway, Most car companies have offers for new grads. The APR offer from Honda is valid whatever your credit score is as long as you are a new grad. Look for such offers from Ford/ Chrysler.

A sample, here is Honda's new grad offer. I know this was given to students on OPT

http://www.hondafinancialservices.co...e-grad-program

Here is Ford's. I dunno whether you need a Green card for this- since it says only for residents.

http://www.ford.com/forddrivesu/

And finally Do check out the GM college grad program. The Camaro might be a good alternative.

https://www.gmcollegediscount.com/

[amitoj]

Originally Posted by GullwingGT

Time to buy my first car in the US !

I am graduating in a month from my masters and need to get a car. I initially planned to get a Mustang Ecoboost premium MT or a Challenger V6 SXT Plus.

But I don't have any credit history and I feel this might hamper the loan process or even the possibility of getting a new car. So what do you guys suggest should I buy a used one and save some cash for the first year?
And if used one I will only go for a VW CC .

Originally Posted by Jomz

You sure a huge torque RWD is what you want in NY & MA?? I would suggest waiting for the Ford RS.

Aye if that's what he wants, who are we to interfere?

But VW CC is an interesting choice. What made you (GullwingGT) choose this one? It has terrible terrible depreciation. You will get it cheap in the used market but then it will be yours... forrrevvver!!

It is really a shame that Civic Type R wont be here anytime soon though.

It is also a shame that WRX does not come as a wagon any more. But you can still consider it.

[maddy42]

Originally Posted by amitoj

Arre bhai log! (O Brothers!)

Just very proactive brothers to get you to open that wallet

Originally Posted by guyfrmblr

Hi All, I have recently relocated to Boston. I'm looking for a used car probably Toyota or Honda

At 10k you get way too many cars which are as reliable as the two mentioned. You are in the craziest car market so you should actually look around for a gem. You could get a lot of coupes in this range and Hyundai and Nissan which are also considered reliable do come in this price range.

Originally Posted by AstaAddict

Now the questions:-

• How is it possible that such a major accident doesn't show up in CarFax? Has this happened to anyone else on this forum?

Carfax is a good place to look but not 100% accurate. Do look around and get a list of cars you would want to choose. Again all cash buyer so you can look at private party too. My friend got a elantra from an old white guy. Its a gorgeous car with low miles. The seller didnt know what KBB is!

Originally Posted by GullwingGT

Time to buy my first car in the US !

I am graduating in a month from my masters and need to get a car. I initially planned to get a Mustang Ecoboost premium MT or a Challenger V6 SXT Plus.

Congrats and this is awesome your graduating.

First question: Why a new car? Get a decent runner for about 5k for 6 months, build your credit history and then proceed buying anything. Do remember you just started and there is no race. You will thank me in 3 years when you dont have to bother too much about payments and depreciation.

Buy a older used now, save up and upgrade to a newer and nicer used. There are a lot of hot used cars out there.


Finally folks I have decided on getting myself a radar detector. Escort 9500ix. Anybody owns one? What should i do to get the best setup possible?
Had to get it just to avoid any tickets. Mind you i am not into any street racing Just that auto nut who tries to be 5-10 over.

Maddy

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by maddy42

Finally folks I have decided on getting myself a radar detector. Escort 9500ix. Anybody owns one? What should i do to get the best setup possible?

Make sure you understand the legislation in your state, and or the states you might find yourself travelling in.

See http://www.ebay.com/gds/Radar-Detect...7628850/g.html

I owned two different models in 2011-212. Long story short, I was never that impressed with them. Too many false alarms. Maybe they have gotten better over time.

Also, a lot of speed traps in the USA are based on cops sitting in their cruiser by the side of the road and using one of these hand speed guns. They are very accurate, but more importantly the reading is more or less instant. So the cop will get your speed at the same time you get the alarm. It's too late then.You can't detect them when they are not pointing it at you and when they do its too late.

These radar detectors tend to be most effective against permanent radar setups. There are some other ways of avoiding those. Some GPS units, such as for instance TomTom offer GPS with a database of the known radar traps. So you get an alarm way in advance. In fact that is still my preferred method back in Europe as well, where there are many more speed traps and average speed checks then in the USA I find. My TomTom has the locations of all known speed traps and it also shows locations known for mobile speed traps (e.g. the cop in his cruiser with a hand speed gun).

Good luck, careful with that right foot!

Jeroen

[Technocrat]

Originally Posted by amitoj

I have signed up for the Basic Motorcyle Rider training program at the Nashua DMV from 24th to 26th April.
Can't wait for summer to start!!

I plan to do the same, probably in May when the weather is better.

Originally Posted by amitoj

Thanks!
As for bikes, if and when I decide to buy one, it looks like I am going to be in a world of confusion!! So, I am not putting any thought into that right now.

Same here, too many choices & I get confused so decided that I should first get a license then think about which bike

[GullwingGT]

Originally Posted by Jomz

You sure a huge torque RWD is what you want in NY & MA?? I would suggest waiting for the Ford RS.


http://www.hondafinancialservices.co...e-grad-program
http://www.ford.com/forddrivesu/
https://www.gmcollegediscount.com/

I checked the GM one and one should be a permanent resident for it. I wanted to avoid all Japanese cars except the 2016 Mazda 6.

Originally Posted by amitoj

Aye if that's what he wants, who are we to interfere?

Haha, I take it as a warning

I know it carries such bad resale, but somehow I like it. In my university the popular ones are Subaru WRX, Jetta GLI. Should I consider a used Jetta GLI?

Why CC?
I want some exclusivity

Originally Posted by maddy42

Congrats and this is awesome your graduating.

First question: Why a new car? Get a decent runner for about 5k for 6 months, build your credit history and then proceed buying anything.

I was skeptical about putting down big 30s early on that's why asked team-bhp's advise. But do you think I should buy for 5K now and change in 6 months or get one for 15k and change after 1.5 or 2 yrs? Or even 15K is too much to start? Some of my friends have gone ahead and bought new cars for upto 30k so I thought it shouldn't be a problem.

I was even considering used E-Class coupes, but myself decided it will be a overkill right out of grad school.

Thanks guys for all your suggestions.

[maddy42]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Make sure you understand the legislation in your state, and or the states you might find yourself travelling in.

See http://www.ebay.com/gds/Radar-Detect...7628850/g.html

Good luck, careful with that right foot!

Jeroen

Thanks Jeroen. I did check in our state its legal but the only trouble is the cops use Laser. So if you find a cop the cop knows your speed. I specifically got this to get no false alarms and gps functionality. Its one thing i wanted to prevent anything stupid.

Originally Posted by Technocrat

I plan to do the same, probably in May when the weather is better.

Awesome Techno. Its a good experience atleast going for the class. Just found out a track day which occurs in phoenix once a month. Need to check them out next month.

Originally Posted by GullwingGT

Haha, I take it as a warning

I know it carries such bad resale, but somehow I like it. In my university the popular ones are Subaru WRX, Jetta GLI. Should I consider a used Jetta GLI?


I was even considering used E-Class coupes, but myself decided it will be a overkill right out of grad school.

Thanks guys for all your suggestions.

Subaru is a good choice. I mentioned 5k as selling this will be a easy job in a couple of months. Also i was getting a Miata for 5k!

This is my personal opinion and frankly is from my experience. Banks will want you to get a loan as your a prime candidate for a high interest rate. Just calculate the interest for 35k at 7% vs 35k at 2% for just a year. They will mention refinancing but wont mention that there is a fee involved in it.

Plus the first 2-3 year payments just goes along with the depreciation. If you intend on selling your car at the end of the third year you would cover the loan amount on it.

Enough of finance advice but its better you go for used and wait for that pricey buy for now. Buy something fun and you will love it.

Let me know if you want some advice, i can take this offline.

Good luck in the hunt. It can be frustrating at times.

Maddy

[amitoj]

Originally Posted by kraft.wagen

we are just being supportive and nice

Originally Posted by maddy42

Just very proactive brothers to get you to open that wallet

Finally folks I have decided on getting myself a radar detector. Escort 9500ix. Anybody owns one? What should i do to get the best setup possible?
Had to get it just to avoid any tickets. Mind you i am not into any street racing Just that auto nut who tries to be 5-10 over.

Maddy

Yeah yeah. There is nothing left in the wallet worth opening after springing for new exhaust and coilovers for the Charger

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Make sure you understand the legislation in your state, and or the states you might find yourself travelling in.

These radar detectors tend to be most effective against permanent radar setups. There are some other ways of avoiding those. Some GPS units, such as for instance TomTom offer GPS with a database of the known radar traps. So you get an alarm way in advance. In fact that is still my preferred method back in Europe as well, where there are many more speed traps and average speed checks then in the USA I find. My TomTom has the locations of all known speed traps and it also shows locations known for mobile speed traps (e.g. the cop in his cruiser with a hand speed gun).

Good luck, careful with that right foot!

Jeroen

True! And do not drive into Canada with a radar detector even in your boot. It will be confiscated. Speaking of other means, I think the social networking based map app Waze gives real time updates on speed traps. Of course it is based on people reporting it, so if you are travelling down an isolated road, you may not get a warning about a speed trap.

Originally Posted by Technocrat

I plan to do the same, probably in May when the weather is better.

I dont know about NJ but the course here in NH gets filled up real fast. I applied in February, gave 12 preferred date-location combinations and got the 10th one on the list!! The courses are starting from 10th April but i got the one for 24th only.

Originally Posted by GullwingGT

I was skeptical about putting down big 30s early on that's why asked team-bhp's advise. But do you think I should buy for 5K now and change in 6 months or get one for 15k and change after 1.5 or 2 yrs? Or even 15K is too much to start? Some of my friends have gone ahead and bought new cars for upto 30k so I thought it shouldn't be a problem.

I was even considering used E-Class coupes, but myself decided it will be a overkill right out of grad school.

Thanks guys for all your suggestions.

I think if you can afford the high interest payments for first 6 months, you should go for a loan. Your credit score will shoot up much faster with a car loan in 6 months than with credit card payments for 6 months. Most credit unions wont charge a refinancing fee. Even if they do, it wont be more than $50 or so. The thing about buying a 5K worth of a car is that you may get stuck with it if you find your credit score has not moved much in 6 months, because you hardly have a credit

But if you want to go for a 15K used car, then the options are endless. Consider a Pontiac GTO. Or my all time favorite, Mazdaspeed 3.

Another thing. Dont get too hung up about getting an AWD just because you are going to be in NY/MA area. A good set of winter tires, cautious driving and a prayer will get you through the worst winter even in a RWD. Hehehe. But you will have a blast rest of the year.

Good luck making up your mind. *add another winking smiley here*

EDIT: Articles like these just make me lose faith in the used car market:
Scam Artists Get Clean Titles for Totaled Cars
I hope these are few and far in between.