[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by shibujp

The Creta is already a very quiet and refined vehicle so this question might be redundant but have you noticed a real difference in NVH with the cladding in place?

I fully agree with you Sir that the Creta is brilliant in terms of NVH levels even the engine note is heard mildly unless one is at top of the revv range.

My motto for getting this engine hood insulation was never for decreasing the NVH levels but to cover that ugly underside of the hood. Hope this helps.

[a4anurag]

A/C & Engine Air Filter Change

Was observing reduced A/C effect so checked the A/C filter and found it to be greyish-black in colour with no effect to tapping or low-pressure cleaning hence decided to change the filter. Same was for the Engine Air Filter. Both these were changed during the 20,000 kms service.

I have bought 3 sets of each of the filters from MOBIS outlet and will be changing the Engine Air filter every 5K kms. The A/C filter will be changed every 10K kms but IF REQUIRED will change when need arises.

Engine Air Filter
Part Number: 28113-A0200
Price: ₹ 320

A/C Filter
Part Number:97133-2H001
Price: ₹483 (I paid)


*****************


Srisailam Temple Visit - Solo Drive

Was a long pending visit for me hence started off without much thought.

Got on the road at 07:30 after breakfast and prior to leaving checked the Google Maps once and it said 5 hours in total so I would be reaching the temple by 12:30 which is okay since it wouldn't be crowded be it on the road to the or in the temple itself for the Darshan.

Onward Journey

• Started at 07:30
• Reached Temple at 12:00

One 5 minute break taken for Tea.

After reaching the Temple, parked the car near to the entrance area and headed straight for the Darshan that was completed in 30 minutes due to no rush at the temple.

Return Journey

• Started at 13:30
• Reached Temple at 17:30

Toll Paid (Multiple Journey):

At Kadthal: ₹55
At Kontipuram: ₹30

Some Images of the drive

Trip distance and figures

******

The Ghat Section


Be it on the highway or the Ghats, the car performed really well. The remap done with emphasis to better low-end did show it's positive side today during the whole journey. Absolutely nice to drive and behaves really well.

The larger engine + remap made a huge huge difference and thanks to the brilliant NVH standards compared to the Swift, it was peaceful to be driving in with no fatigue at all.

Thanks to Android Auto, using Google Maps on-the-go was excellent as I got updates on both the route and tyre pressure.

*****************

FE Summary for the last two full tanks


FE returns from the car are phenomenal and rewarding thanks to the higher fuel prices that take toll on the monthly running costs.

That's all for now.

[a4anurag]

Around view monitoring system (AVM) Setting

Hyundai's AVM

Something in the lines of the above video is what I think AVM is.

While playing around with the HU (Refer Post No.: 132) I found an option labelled "AVM Setting". Curious checked it and it turned out to be Around View Monitoring which is nothing but 360 degree Surround View.

AVM setting in the HU (Engineer Mode, Go To Page 5).


Once clicked, System will reboot.


After reboot, go to Settings and Display. A new 3rd option will be visible - "360 degree Surround View".


Below settings available in the 360 degree Surround View option


When Reverse gear is engaged, this is how it looks.


I think, if the HU has a way to accept input from Front, Left, Right camera respectively then it will be possible to have this AVM option working.

I'll see if it can be explored.

**********************

Post No.: 131 in this thread, I had sent the Relay unit back to CarPlus for a replacement. Received it 3 days back so fixed the unit today. Took me half an hour to complete the job.

Items Needed for the job:

• 3M double sided tape
• Scissors
• Nylon zip ties
• Wire stripper
• Insulation tape
• Star & Philips screw driver
• Cloth/Fabric adhesive tape

3M double sided tape used


7.5A fuse protecting the relay unit


Folding Relay module


Wires that need to be connected


Complete set, Relay + wiring


Screw 1 to be removed to removed (located behind the door handle)


Screw 2 to be removed to removed (located under the flap the door cup)


Door pad removed...


...placed away


Coupler connected


Double sided tape used to stick the relay module onto the door


All connected and Secured

[francis_vaz]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

MODIFICATION #9 & 10: DIY conversion of the Central cabin lamp, the two Reading lamps and Boot lamp to LED

Very impressive DIY's sir, have been following your thread for a long time.
I have ordered these LED bulbs for my car.

Can you please share how the lights are working(i.e any light has given up yet) and are there any issues with heating of the bulbs?

Thank You!

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by francis_vaz

Can you please share how the lights are working(i.e any light has given up yet) and are there any issues with heating of the bulbs?

Thank you sir for the kind words.

All the lights are working properly. No issues with the LED so far. No flickering or any issues.

No heating issues either.

[a4anurag]

MODIFICATION #23: LED Fog Light + DRL

Main motto of this modification is NOT to use the LED's as fog lamps. It was ONLY for the DRL's in this design that I love a lot over other fog lamp DRL's. Since the weather in Hyderabad never witnesses fog, the LED is actually useless and is of no use in terms of improving the visibility. If one is looking for better visibility, please let the OE fog lamps remain stock and look elsewhere for the DRL's.

Items Needed

1. LED Fog lamps
2. A pair of hands to help (thanks to BHPian interc00led for this)
3. Socket Tool Kit
4. Hot air gun
5. Heat shrink tubes
6. Extra star screw driver to remove the bumper fasteners
7. Scissors
8. Tesa Tape (Automotive cloth tape)
9. Insulation tape
10. Nylon Zip ties
11. Screw-type retainer clips (if original set was misplaced!)
12. 1 sq.mm dual core wire
13. Bullet connectors

Process of Install in a broader way

• Park the car on a flat ground, engage the parking brake
• Disconnect the negative terminal (-ve) on the battery
• Remove the front bumper and disconnect the fog lamp connectors
• Using the star screw driver, remove the 4 screws that hold each of the fog lamps
• Fit the new LED fog lights
• Connect the OE fog light connectors into the LED connector and also connect the DRL wiring into the respective harness
• Secure any extra/loose wiring using zip ties
• Connect the DRL power to any 12V source as you may find it correct
• Re-connect the negative terminal of the battery
• Switch it to see if all works...
• ...if all okay, re-fit the bumper

Bumper Removal

Since purchase, this is the first time the front bumper has been removed and it was fairly easy to remove it. It is held by 4 star screws on top; 1 star screws in the wheel well where the fender panel and bumper meet. Other than these screws each wheel well has 2 bumper retainer clips; 5 + 4 retainer clips that are at the base, holding the bumper + plastic guard.

Once all these screws and retainer clips are removed, from the sides (under headlight area), pull the bumper outwards. Once that's free on the sides, pull the whole unit outwards and it'll slide out easily (Thanks to Niranjan Sir for all the discussion we had over this subject since he has removed the bumper earlier!!).

Connections

It is a straightforward install where everything is connector to connector type (read plug & play). We played conservative and decided on how-to connect the DRL to a 12V power source. We were clear on what the connection would be so things fell in place as it went. There are two choices to get the DRL functioning. They are:

Option A) From the engine bay, source a 12V power and an earthing point to complete the circuit. I literally failed to find any such locations that could tap the power.

Option B) Pull the wiring inside and connect it to a Fuse Tap cable and connect it to a fuse that functions ONLY when ACC/igniton mode.

We chose Option B since it is easier and faster to undo also if in case I had to in future.

Images of the Install as below. Since this was a semi-DIY, couldn't click many images.

The pair of LED Fog lamp + DRL


DRL's in the form of 'L' shape that I like


LED's that light up when fog switch is flicked. What I like of this design is that the LED's placement is in such a way that it 'projects' the light onto the reflector rather than throwing it straight ahead


Rear view


Wiring and connectors for the DRL and Fog lights


Wiring harness that was provided. The bundle on the top was used to connect the DRL. For fog light LED's the stock H27/881 connectors have fit tight into the H8 connectors as seen on the New fog lamps


Bumper removed


H27/881 fog lamp connector as seen and also the washer tank


OE fog lamp held by 4 star screws


OE fog lamp removed


New LED fog lamp fixed


Connecting the DRL wiring


Wired and tested


A close up of the DRL. Taken in zoom from a distance when it was switched on during the test


All done and out of the FNG


Current drawn by the LED's.


A few images of the DRL's and Fog lights

[ecosport rules]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

MODIFICATION #23: LED Fog Light + DRL
n by DRL.[/center][/b]

Awesome job Anurag

How is the plastic quality of the light ?
How is the light output of fog only when the headlamp is switched off ?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by ecosport rules

How is the plastic quality of the light ?

It is good and sturdy. Looks and feels OE.

Originally Posted by ecosport rules

How is the light output of fog only when the headlamp is switched off ?

Absolutely nothing. Hence I mentioned, if one is looking at this swap for better visibility, then look elsewhere.

[pacman2881]

Good one. DRLs look brighter than stock pilot lamps.

There are two lamps inside? Or is it designed to look like that?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by pacman2881

Good one. DRLs look brighter than stock pilot lamps.

Much brighter than the pilot lamps. Here are some day light shots.

Only DRL


Pilot Lamps + DRL


Pilot Lamps + DRL - Close Up


Pilot Lamps + DRL + Fog light


Pilot Lamps + DRL + Fog light - Close Up

Originally Posted by pacman2881

There are two lamps inside? Or is it designed to look like that?

DRL - it is a single LED strip in the 'L' shape consisting of 9 LED's.

Fog light - consists of 4 LED's with two on top portion and 2 LED's on the underside.





Hope this helps.

[a4anurag]

MODIFICATION #24: Footwell Lighting

As I have done this DIY in the Swift, it was a mere repeat for the Creta with little extras this time. During the time of Swift, the footwell lighting was restricted only for the front footwell but for this time I decided to get the lighting done for the rear too.

First and the foremost thanks to BHPian Non-Stop Driver for sending me the footwell lighting that he had an extra which wasn't of any use and he had got it for free. I used a part of that kit for this DIY.

Link to that item: Bluetooth RGB Car Footwell Light For Android IOS

LED Strip that I used was same that I used for Swift, here are the specs given below. Reason I did not use the same strip as in the kit was, it wasn't giving a white light output. It was more of bluish-white that wasn't to my taste hence used the Wipro LED strip that is more towards white:

Wipro Garnet 3528 LED


Manufacturer: Wipro
LED Name: Garnet
Product code: D43540
Wattage: 4.8 W per meter
Colour Temperature: 4000k
Voltage: 12V DC

Items Needed

• LED Strip
• A pair of hands to help (thanks to BHPian interc00led for this)
• Star screwdriver + Flat head screwdriver
• Hot air gun
• Heat shrink tubes
• Soldering kit
• Chocolate Block connector
• 1 sq.mm dual core wire
• Insulation tape
• Nylon Zip ties
• Bullet connectors

Process of Install

• Disconnect the negative (-ve) battery terminal;
• Using the star screwdriver, remove the central cabin light and remove the light connector and bluetooth mic connector;
• Using a panel removal tool, slowly dislodge the A-pillar trim and also remove the left side panel of the dashboard to route the wires easily;
• Pass the dual core wire from the central cabin light to the base of the passenger side footwell carefully and avoid letting the wire touch the curtain airbag (may interfere in functioning of the airbag);
• Solder two wires on the central cabin light connector to draw power from here and then crimp one end of the dual core wire using bullet connectors to the wires that were just soldered to the cabin light.
• To the other end of the dual core wire that is in the passenger footwell, connect it to one side of the chocolate block connector
• Stick the 4 LED strips of the desired length in the locations as preferred and then route the wiring in a clean manner.
• Strip the wires and connect the wires to the other end
• Connect the -ve terminal of the battery and connect the cabin light connector and check if all lights are working.
• If all okay, refit the cabin light back to its position, re-fit the A-pillar trim, dashboard panel and passenger side beading.

Wiring Diagram that was followed

Images of the install

Footwell Lighting Kit


Part of the kit that wasn't used (including the strip as given in the kit)


Soldering kit


Strips with 3M tape ready-to-stick at the desired location (Has rubber stoppers on both ends to keep it dust free and safe from it getting hit by shoes etc


Nylon zip ties used


Wire stripper


Push the tab to open the sunglass holder to reveal the screws


Two star screws hold the light which need to be removed


Connectors of the cabin light & Bluetooth Mic


Under-side of the cabin light and Area highlighted where the soldering needs to be done to draw power


Two wires being soldered onto the underside of the cabin light...


...and other end of the wire was crimped with bullet connectors (female part)


One end of the dual core wire was crimped with bullet connectors (Male part) and the Male + Female part connected


Wires soldered to the Wipro LED strip


Drivers side LED strip stuck in position


Passengers side LED strip stuck in position


Rear left side LED strip stuck in position (Under the seat on the right side seat rail)


Rear right side LED strip stuck in position (Under the seat on the left side seat rail)


Wires from all sides meeting at the passenger footwell (1 - Passenger side strip wire; 2 - drivers side strip wire; 3 - Rear left side strip wire; 4 - Rear right side strip wire)

Footwell Lighting Output Shots


Driver side


Passengers side


Rear Left side


Rear right side


Front end footwell glowing


Rear end footwell glowing


Complete Footwell glowing


Closeup of the strip glowing

PS: In the lighting out shots the light output is yellowish in colour but in reality is more towards white. I am not sure why it happened as those specific images were clicked using my mobile and the other light output images were clicked using my DSLR.

*******

Last but not the least, here is a closing image after completing two consecutive DIY's on the car. Here's the condition of the boot of the Creta. Had it been the Swift, life would be hell due to lack of space but in the Creta it is heaven to store and work around.

Boot condition

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Footwell Lighting

Really well done.

I liked the use of the correct tools including a soldering iron, wire stripper/cutter, rosin solder wire, bullet and butt connectors, zip ties etc. You forgot to show us a pic of the crimping tool.

This is a very good example of how to modify car (or even home) wiring without running the risk of short circuits and loose connections.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by R2D2

You forgot to show us a pic of the crimping tool.

Here's the image of Crimping Tool used.

[a4anurag]

Bought the engine oil for the 30,000 kms service. Have read a lot of positive reviews for this oil so decided to try it this time when I send the car for the 4th service.

AMSOIL Heavy-Duty Synthetic Diesel Oil 5W-40

Specifications that the oil meets:

• API CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4+, CF
• Volvo VDS4.5, VDS4, VDS3
• Mack EOS-4.5, EO-O
• Renault RLD-4, RLD-3
• Cummins CES20086, CES20081
• Caterpillar ECF-2, ECF-3, ECF-1-a
• DDC 93K218, 93K215, 93K214
• DFS 93K222
• ACEA E9, E7
• MB 228.31
• MAN 3575
• MTU Type 2.1, II, I
• JASO DH-2
• Deutz DQC III-10LA
• Chrysler MS 10902
• Ford WSS-M2C171-F1

Creta's 1.6L takes 5.3L quantity of oil so I purchased 1 US gallon (3.78L) + 2 US Quart bottles (0.946ml + 0.946ml = 1.89L) so a total of 5.67L. I'll be having ~400ml extra after the oil change.

Price paid:

1 US Gallon Can: ₹ 2,700
1 US Quart Bottle: ₹ 680 x 2 = ₹ 1,360
Net Total: ₹ 4,060/-

AMSOIL (5W40)


Pricing


Specifications




Shall update the thread on the car feels with this oil over the useless Servo 15W40 engine oil that the ASC fills.

[francis_vaz]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Shall update the thread on the car feels with this oil over the useless Servo 15W40 engine oil that the ASC fills.

Hello sir, I have some questions regarding the engine oil upgrade.
1)Is fully synthetic oil approved for the Creta by Hyundai?
2)Won't the car's warranty be voided if you are using oil (read grade 15W40 as opposed to 5W40) that is not recommended by the manufacturer?
3)Last time I asked my SA about switching to full synthetic oil for my Ertiga, he said Maruti Suzuki does not allow any other engine oils other than the ones recommended by the company, and doing so will void the entire warranty on the car.