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Originally Posted by a4anurag Congratulations Parag……So the target now is 300000 kms is it?
Cheers,
Anurag. |
Thanks Anurag! In fact, 100000 itself was never a target but it just happened and believe me, I never ever dreamt that I will hit the 2L mark too. It’s a car that has never given me any trouble and performs as good as new even today. A reason good enough that I should not get rid of it. The Tallboy has simply grown over me now/
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Originally Posted by Ashkait Kapoor I needed some advice on my WagonR.
Its a 2005 model, done 38k kms.
The ride is quite bumpy, and the braking feels hard than normal. What could be the problem?
Also, is it normal for my car to give 10km to a liter given that i drive in a hill station?
please help!  |
Like Anurag mentioned it could be various reasons behind the bumpy/harsh ride (not that the ride quality can be compared to some well planted cars).
I am sure at 38k you would be running on stock tires? If Yes, they might be of JK make which usually offer a hard ride.
Both JKs and Bridgestones in my car (1st and 2nd Set) offered hard rides when driven alone but once I shifted to XM1+ (3rd) and XM2( 4th), I have faced no issues with the ride whatsoever.
Now comes your suspension – If the ride is Hard – The suspension is not at its best. Get the struts, Mounting bushes, Lower arms inspected. If needed, replace as necessary. Remember that the condition of these parts will completely depend on how the car has been driven in those 38k kms.
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Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar Wow congrats on the amazing milestone.200k under Indian driving conditions is a extraordinay achievement.So how is it you go about your maintenence?Any tips for us?Also i am surprised you didn't go the diesel way with so much running. |
Thanks Sumeeth. Till date I have never stepped away from my car whenever it has gone for Service. I have developed good people relationship at both the major ASCs wherever I have given it for service that every SA knows that I will prefer so stay with the car and never ask me “Saar, what time you want the Vehicle to be dropped?? We will call you once its ready”
One reason to do this is to know every detail/aspect of component and also ensure a supervision exists when those mechanics start using hammer to remove the wheel hub or try to tighten any bolt without a Torque Wrench or even start working on cleaning Plugs, Filter without the basic hygiene of disconnecting the negative battery terminal.
I have learnt a lot of things during each of my visit that it has immensely aided me in accomplishing many DIY Projects in my car too.
Why I didn’t consider Diesel??- I purchased this in 2006. Budget, too less options in Diesel Segment. Moreover, I don’t think I ,myself knew I will drive this so much. Even the second one we got for our extended family is a Petrol car. May be I will remain a Petrol head.
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Originally Posted by Ashkait Kapoor The tyre pressure I'am maintaining is 30PSI. |
LXi comes with 145/70 while VXi with 155/65. The air pressure recommended for 145 is 33PSI and for 155 is 32 PSI. Check the sticker on the A pillar on the driver side door. You will be able to read this.
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Originally Posted by Ashkait Kapoor ….so I'am guessing the brake pads have not been replaced till date. |
Yes. You may want to check the life of the pads inspecting the wear indicator on the pads and then replace it. Also, better to get the Drums and Rear Shoes cleaned and also get the slave cylinder pistons aligned to center position when you get this cleaned.
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Originally Posted by Ashkait Kapoor However, after i have had the car, I've got the engine oil, air filter, fuel filter and front bushing changed so far.
And I forgot to mention the gear shifting feels a bit hard. Is the clutch plate at fault? |
The Gearshift in the F10D model has been quite infamous for being notchy. I may have driven around 5 F10D WagonRs in the past few years and apart from Mine and a friend’s car, most of them had a horrible gear-shift. In fact, every time I visit the ASC, the SA or the Mechanic is impressed that the gear-shift in my car is unlike a typical F10D. That usually has been a proud moment for me.
But yes, regular replacement of transmission oil will definitely make a difference. Apart from that, I have also spent around Rs.1,100 to replace the gear-Shift mechanism (Lever, 2 rods and bushes that link to the gearbox) after I started having a weird difficulty in shifting only to 1-3-5 gears. It was found that the rubber bushing below the lever had become hard and worn out. Replacing the shift mechanism brought back my gear shifts back to its usual normalcy. You may want to get that inspected too. Its fairly simple task to remove the whole shifter assembly and check the rubber parts.
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Originally Posted by Geo_Ipe No ordinary feat!
I had the F10D Wagon R from 2009 - 2012, bought at 64k km and sold at 74k km, and absolutely adored it. Did some memorable drives in it, including Vellore - Mangalore - Vellore, and my solo Vellore - Kottayam! |
Thanks Geo. The F10D is a gem of an engine the way it’s performing even after 202000 kms today.
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Originally Posted by extreme_torque Congratulations on reaching yet another milestone. You must be a veritable wagon r expert. I have a query for you. I have a 2006 wagon r which has done 44k kms. From the past sometime the fuel average is pretty low at around 11 kmpl. I can see dense black soot in the exhaust when I put my finger in. What could be wrong? Does it need some sort of tuning? Thanks in advance. |
Thanks extreme_torque! Well, every day is a new learning for me when it comes to my WagonR. I get too finicky even for the slightest sound/noise or drop in performance. Perhaps that is what has helped me keep the engine in top notch condition.
By the way, is that black soot unusually deposited? I think a normal black layer in the inside of the exhaust is quite normal. Suspecting bad sparks and incomplete combustion here. You may want to get the Spark plugs checked. The Stock plugs for the F10D model are CHAMPION (I forgot the Model code) and NGK (DCPR7E). Both these plugs differ by double the amount in terms of cost and I don’t know why (~60 and 125). And most of the times, the ASC will have no stock of NGK and will install CHAMPION.
I for one have been particular about NGK-DCPR7E and if the ASC doesn’t have it, I get it myself from the nearest MGP Dealer or even from the Authorized NGK stockist from Siddaiah Road (Bangalore). I have always experienced the performance of NGK is definitely better to that of Champion. Since the past 80k Kms, irrespective of the Service interval, I replace the plugs myself. Also, I have installed the stock specified NGK plugs in Iridium (DCPR7E-IX) and feel they are even better at idling speeds to lug in 2nd gear (with the AC On) as well as above-4000 RPMs. The response has been excellent even till date.
You must get the Plugs checked, Throttle valve inspected for dirt (on the Throttle body) before we begin to suspect anything else.
In city the FE for me varies between 14-15kmpl with 100% AC while on the highways, I still manage to get around 17-18kmpl with full AC use and speeds between 100-120kmph which I feel is good enough.