[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by IronDrago56

I just took the car out this morning and drove 35km and the temp gauge is steady at the half way mark.

If there is constant air flowing through the radiator, its unlikely to run hot.
I assume the temperature is going high when the car is stationary or inching in bumper to bumper traffic.

There is a temperature sensor that sends instruction to the ECU to activate the radiator fan in timed intervals and after the temperature rises beyond a certain degree. If that is not happening or the sensor is sending wrong information, it won't turn on the radiator fan (when aircon is off) causing the temperature to rise. It appears to be turning on the fan but a little too late. You're almost bordering on boiling point which is risky.

[Tgo]

Originally Posted by IronDrago56

So once I've sorted that issue out I'll also have Mr. Murgan (the Mechanic at SMK Automobiles) check this problem out.

I would suspect the condenser fan, due to the age of the vehicle.

Only because I have seen a 5 year old fan functioning erratically due to mechanical failure. In mu duster, the fan bearing gave way. So sometimes it would run and sometimes it used to get stuck in an awkward spot and just let out fumes from the fan motor due to excessive heating. AC wouldn’t blow cold air when this happened. This issue was noticed when I was using the car for short trips. The temp gauge did not even budge in my case. So on longer trips with air flow through the condenser you won’t even come to know.

[IronDrago56]

Hi Sandeep,

Yeah It was scary, but Yesterday when I spoke to Mr. Murgan, He said that a contsant problem with the 1.6 is overhearting. He says that if the car hasn't been used in over a week, the Coolant gunks up the Thermostat housing. And he says that this is how the car is designed, poorly in terms of engine cooling.

What he suggests is that next time, the car overheats or teeters above the half way mark, he said to pull over and rev the egine to 2-2.5k RPM for a few seconds to force the thermostat to open. He said if that doesn't work, then most likely we'll have to replace the thermostat.

Also as I mentioned earlier, On the highway yesterday Morning, The car was at the half way mark and did not budge. On normal Driving conditions otherwise, it would start overheating, but yestderday It didn't. I drove for 35-40 km yestderday.

The Overheating seems to be occuring on start and stop traffic...

TGO, according to an old Recieipt found in the car, the Radiator was changed at 77,000 KM in 2018 and so was the fan and its relay. For me, when the car goes near Hot, the AC starts cutting in and out. I'll see if Mr. Murgan's advice helps otherwise I may have to spend a bit more in terms of getting the thermostat housing cleaned and/or replaced.

[IronDrago56]

Originally Posted by IronDrago56

Hi Sandeep,

Yeah It was scary, but Yesterday when I spoke to Mr. Murgan, He said that a contsant problem with the 1.6 is overhearting. He says that if the car hasn't been used in over a week, the Coolant gunks up the Thermostat housing. And he says that this is how the car is designed, poorly in terms of engine cooling.

What he suggests is that next time, the car overheats or teeters above the half way mark, he said to pull over and rev the egine to 2-2.5k RPM for a few seconds to force the thermostat to open. He said if that doesn't work, then most likely we'll have to replace the thermostat.

Also as I mentioned earlier, On the highway yesterday Morning, The car was at the half way mark and did not budge. On normal Driving conditions otherwise, it would start overheating, but yestderday It didn't. I drove for 35-40 km yestderday.

The Overheating seems to be occuring on start and stop traffic...

TGO, according to an old Recieipt found in the car, the Radiator was changed at 77,000 KM in 2018 and so was the fan and its relay. For me, when the car goes near Hot, the AC starts cutting in and out. I'll see if Mr. Murgan's advice helps otherwise I may have to spend a bit more in terms of getting the thermostat housing cleaned and/or replaced.

Update:

The Mechanic has identified that the 2speed fan (The speed of fan for the cooling) Is running very slow compared to the A/C Fan and this is the cause of the overheating. This seems to be intermittent as it works sometimes. He is diagnosing the problem. He is thinking the main culprit is the Fan Relay/Resistor or the Fan Motor itself.

Will keep you posted.

[Tgo]

I remember one incident I faced with an Ikon we borrowed from my uncle for a trip. We were driving to a resort outside Pushkar and on a desolate road, there was sudden smoke from the bonnet and the engine temp gauge shot up. My dad was driving with 3 other occupants, they all came out and the hood release was pulled before coming out. The engine was still running but they all slammed the doors shut and in the ikon, I think the doors auto lock if the engine was running.

Now we all are standing outside with a running, overheating engine, hood opened but doors all locked. I was in the other car, and was quite surprised to see what had happened. Poured some water in the coolant reservoir and the engine gulped it up and blew steam out from the heater core connection near the firewall. The connection was broken and I then realised that the engine was tilted to the left side abnormally. Had to figure out a way to stop the engine. Disconnected the battery somehow but the car was still running. We were starting to get worried now because of all the serious damage that the car could have if not shut. There was no coolant in the engine as all of it had drained out of the broken heater core joint.

Luckily, some good sense prevailed, I started disconnecting a few sensors I could see in the engine bay, and I guess, disconnecting the MAP/MAF sensor (or was it the throttle body connection?) cut the engine off.

The car was taken to the ford service centre in Ajmer. They by-passed the heater core and filled fresh coolant and drove it there. Broken engine mount had caused the engine to tilt, breaking the heater core connection causing coolant leakage. New head gasket, engine mount, heater core and some machining work on the head later we had to cough up 16k to get it fixed. This was also the 1.6 ZxI nxt.

[IronDrago56]

Originally Posted by Tgo

I remember one incident I faced with an Ikon we borrowed from my uncle for a trip. We were driving to a resort outside Pushkar and on a desolate road, there was sudden smoke from the bonnet and the engine temp gauge shot up. My dad was driving with 3 other occupants, they all came out and the hood release was pulled before coming out. The engine was still running but they all slammed the doors shut and in the ikon, I think the doors auto lock if the engine was running.

Now we all are standing outside with a running, overheating engine, hood opened but doors all locked. I was in the other car, and was quite surprised to see what had happened. Poured some water in the coolant reservoir and the engine gulped it up and blew steam out from the heater core connection near the firewall. The connection was broken and I then realised that the engine was tilted to the left side abnormally. Had to figure out a way to stop the engine. Disconnected the battery somehow but the car was still running. We were starting to get worried now because of all the serious damage that the car could have if not shut. There was no coolant in the engine as all of it had drained out of the broken heater core joint.

Luckily, some good sense prevailed, I started disconnecting a few sensors I could see in the engine bay, and I guess, disconnecting the MAP/MAF sensor (or was it the throttle body connection?) cut the engine off.

The car was taken to the ford service centre in Ajmer. They by-passed the heater core and filled fresh coolant and drove it there. Broken engine mount had caused the engine to tilt, breaking the heater core connection causing coolant leakage. New head gasket, engine mount, heater core and some machining work on the head later we had to cough up 16k to get it fixed. This was also the 1.6 ZxI nxt.

That sounds like Quite an Ordeal! don't think My Ikon has automatic central locking but this is something I should look out for if this happens to me!

[jeeva]

Originally Posted by IronDrago56

What he suggests is that next time, the car overheats or teeters above the half way mark, he said to pull over and rev the egine to 2-2.5k RPM for a few seconds to force the thermostat to open. He said if that doesn't work, then most likely we'll have to replace the thermostat.

Simply get rid of the thermostat. Will save you a lot of head-ache. With the Ikon, the temperature switch can get cranky at times. You might want to check that too.

[Tgo]

Originally Posted by IronDrago56

That sounds like Quite an Ordeal! don't think My Ikon has automatic central locking but this is something I should look out for if this happens to me!

I am not sure. Was there an SxI version too? Don't remember if it stacked above of below the ZxI. But the doors locked up automatically if the engine was running and unlocked if it was turned off. It was an OEM system as I remember the round remote with grey rubberized, oval shaped large and small buttons.

[IronDrago56]

Originally Posted by Tgo

I am not sure. Was there an SxI version too? Don't remember if it stacked above of below the ZxI. But the doors locked up automatically if the engine was running and unlocked if it was turned off. It was an OEM system as I remember the round remote with grey rubberized, oval shaped large and small buttons.

If memory serves me correctly, the SXI model was introduced in the 2004 Model year. I believe pre 2004 Models had STD, EXI and ZXI Trims.

Also Jeeva - Yes, but as explained before it seems to be a Fan issue. The Thermostat has been rules out as a probable cause. However, won't the engine get damaged if we drove without a thermostat?

[Tgo]

Originally Posted by IronDrago56

If memory serves me correctly, the SXI model was introduced in the 2004 Model year. I believe pre 2004 Models had STD, EXI and ZXI Trims.

Also Jeeva - Yes, but as explained before it seems to be a Fan issue. The Thermostat has been rules out as a probable cause. However, won't the engine get damaged if we drove without a thermostat?

Thermostat initially is closed and prevents coolant circulation. Purpose initially is to get the engine to optimal operating temp. After that it opens up and the radiator and dan do the job of removing the heat from the engine.

If left open all the time (by removing) the engine Will take longer to reach optimal operating temperature. If the runs are shorter it might never reach that temp.

What happens then? Just a little incomplete combustion or higher fuel consumption because the engine control module will keep the fueling rich till to help it reach that temp.