[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by bluevolt

Is there any specific interval to replace the belts also?

There are 3 belts in your WagonR.

1. Alternator Belt/ AC Belt - 60,000 Kms
2. Water Pump Belt - Replaced every 60k Kms (or 72 Months)
3. Timing Belt- Replace every 1,00,000 Kms

Ideally, the below numbers represent the tension for both the AC and the Water Pump belts:

• Water Pump Belt : 6-7mm
• Air Conditioner Belt: 8-9mm

An unusually tight belt can also cause the belt to heat up and could be related to burning smell also.

We had a recent case where a colleague who's i20 Diesel was back after accidental repair was resulting in rattling noise that changed upon revving the engine and when we opened the bonnet and poured water (on the belt as the noise was clearly coming from that area) and we could control the noise and hence zeroed in on the belt. The tension was unusually tight when I felt that from my bare hands.

The next day, the belt broke after spinning like a string on the way to office releasing bad burning smell inside the bonnet.

It is always good to periodically check these belts and replace them as per intervals.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

If it is the brakes then the car won't be rolling freely, Right?!

Absolutely yes and with that tiny 1.1L with 64 horses any load including AC or an extra passenger can easily be felt. So I am sure bad pads rubbing harder with the discs obstructing free rolling would leave a smell too.

Won't the belts shear or snap if it starts to get fried?

Yes, and so I mentioned the case above with that i20 of my colleague.

It depends on the tension of the belts. Just like you check the chain on your Karizma! If it is loose then it is time to change them. Though i am curious on this aspect. I have not changed an belt on my car till date except for the timing one @ 100000 kms. Parag bhai, your input is needed!

Yes Anurag, right said! Normally the belts tension may give a simple hint if its lose or tight but there are cases where its become hard and often cracked all over. It is better to change the belts exactly at the intervals mentioned in the manual.

Hhmm! The belts are located under bonnet only!

Actually, in the WagonR, both the belts' tension (AC & Water Pump) can be easily felt using bare hands even with that limited area. Better to check this when the engine is cold for safety reasons.

Anurag.[/quote]

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

There are 3 belts in your WagonR.

1. Alternator Belt/ AC Belt - 60,000 Kms
2. Water Pump Belt - Replaced every 60k Kms (or 72 Months)
3. Timing Belt- Replace every 1,00,000 Kms

Thanks for the information.

Is there any problem if all the three belts are changed at a shot than wait the specific intervals if budget is not an issue? I mean preventive maintenance!


Anurag.

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Thanks for the information.

Is there any problem if all the three belts are changed at a shot than wait the specific intervals if budget is not an issue? I mean preventive maintenance!

Anurag.

No problem whatsoever to replace them before the interval as preventive maintenance.
In fact many times the ASC folks show me something that can last a lot more but I have insisted them on changing these parts.
For instance I know my brakes were getting weak and when they felt the thickness of pads they said no need to replace even when they had run 63000 kms as the wear indicator was showing life for another 10k kms easily.
They said they will bleed the fluid and rub the surface with sand paper but that didn't help; all because the pads had become hard and I myself could feel it.
I didn't want these hard pads to ruin the rotors or affect the braking though those ASC folks said braking is "fine saaar".
Similar case was with the Alternator/AC belt that had no cracks but I made sure it was replaced at least 5000 kms before scheduled interval as I normally drive on highways where revving is higher than city.

[bluevolt]

It was an expensive affair this time - Rs. 15,400 for the service + clutch replacement job.

The burning smell + shrilling noise + clutch pedal shuddering was due to the older clutch plate & associated rings/shaft/flywheel.

Got the service done from DD motors, peeragarhi yesterday. I contacted the service manager and told about the inconvenience I had to face last time when I had to take my car back home as they wanted me to leave the car in workshop for two days. This time he assured me that I will get the car on same day and as promised I got it back on same day with all jobs complete. I handed over the car to the SA at 9.30 am and got it back at 6.30 pm.

Complete clutch set was replaced with a new one. Mechanic told that brake pads have enough life for next 10,000 KMs, pads have not become much hard either. After cleaning the brakes have regained the bite and I think the mechanic was right. Weak brake feeling earlier might be due to the fact that I am accustomed to my City's brakes. Tyres are also good enough for next 5000-7000 KMs according to the SA.

Following are the details of the service & clutch replacement job.

Parts

-> oil seal = Rs. 75
-> Clutch flywheel = Rs. 1015
-> bearing input shaft = Rs. 105
-> clutch set = Rs. 1770
-> bearing clutch release = Rs. 515
-> oil seal - left & right side gear box = Rs. 120
-> wiper blades = Rs. 530
-> coolant = Rs. 210
-> engine oil = Rs. 1000
-> gear oil = Rs. 800
-> Misc items = Rs. 100
-> Service kit (all filters + spark plugs + brake fluid) = Rs. 720

Labour

-> brake cleaning = Rs. 650
-> oil pump strainer cleaning = Rs. 675
-> fuel injector cleaning = Rs. 550
-> Throttle body cleaning = Rs. 700
-> Clutch overhaul = Rs. 2550
-> Paid service = Rs. 1300

Taxes = Rs. 1850

Total = Rs. 15,400

After the service the car feels and runs like new. The engine has become much silent and smoother now, gear shifts have become slicker as well, and there is significant improvement in pickup of the car also. The service adviser told to replace rear RHS suspension arm and it would take 2-3 hours more to replace but I refused because of shortage of time. He also advised to replace the LHS gear box casing which costs Rs. 9,000 because some part in it has worn out and it might cause some noise in future - I refused this job also because I felt this was unnecessary as of now..





This was the part which was advised by SA to replace which costs Rs. 9000 because the below part in it has worn out? I was not sure about this so refused the job as of now.





old clutch and new clutch set







Though this service has definitely pinched my pocket hard but since I have no plans of selling my car anytime soon I went ahead with all service & repair jobs. So the WagonR is good enough for another next 10,000 KMs before the next service. Current ODO reading is 44,100 KMs.

Will update soon with post service mileage figures and some photos.

[paragsachania]

^ That's a relief I must say. Don't worry on the amount spent. It's normal barring what you have paid for Clutch overhaul which is on the higher side as usually it costs less than 1600 INR.

The pictures you posted clearly signify a lot about the health of the clutch. With the new Clutch set with the flywheel I am sure the operation would be much smoother than before??

You should notice an immediate difference in 1st-2nd Gears as it would become more responsive with the new clutch.

Also, what I can see from the pics of the new clutch is you have got installed VALEO clutch with CEEKAY being another MGP clutch that MSIL uses for the F10D WagonRs and Previous gen Alto.

I am running on the 3rd Set of clutch and the last 2 are Ceekay as I personally preferred them over VALEO due to some instances I have mentioned in the past.

Generally, It the moment you realize the clutch is weak, car is under-performing despite all the other things taken care of, its time you replace the clutch irrespective of whether you can live with it for another 10,000 kms.

I for one have always replaced all my clutches as part of preventive maintenance before it starting losing grip or slipping.

I am sure you will not have much to worry in terms of mechanicals associated with transmission now!

EDIT: 2 questions for you:

I see from the list that the Input shaft bearing was also replaced. May I know the reason?

Also, what is the Job that the ASC was asking you to replace that cost 9000 INR? Could you be more clear? The shaft is clearly hinting at the Gearbox side

[bluevolt]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

^ That's a relief I must say. Don't worry on the amount spent. It's normal barring what you have paid for Clutch overhaul which is on the higher side as usually it costs less than 1600 INR.

Yep the labour charges for this job is bit on higher side but I had no choice and I don't know any reliable garage from where I can get the job done with complete peace of mind.

Originally Posted by paragsachania

The pictures you posted clearly signify a lot about the health of the clutch. With the new Clutch set with the flywheel I am sure the operation would be much smoother than before??You should notice an immediate difference in 1st-2nd Gears as it would become more responsive with the new clutch.

Yes there is significant improvement in pickup, slick gear change and light clutch pedal operation. The older clutch appears to be completely worn out?


Is this normal life I got from the previous clutch? I anyhow expected that to last till 50K KMs but since I mostly use WagonR for inter city commutes it's quite ok.

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Also, what I can see from the pics of the new clutch is you have got installed VALEO clutch with CEEKAY being another MGP clutch that MSIL uses for the F10D WagonRs and Previous gen Alto.

I am running on the 3rd Set of clutch and the last 2 are Ceekay as I personally preferred them over VALEO due to some instances I have mentioned in the past.

Honestly speaking I have no idea about the different brands of clutches used by Maruti. How good is this VALEO brand? I will refer to your thread as well.

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Generally, It the moment you realize the clutch is weak, car is under-performing despite all the other things taken care of, its time you replace the clutch irrespective of whether you can live with it for another 10,000 kms.

I for one have always replaced all my clutches as part of preventive maintenance before it starting losing grip or slipping.

Though the clutch pedal was bit hard to press, there was no other symptom for clutch replacement. There was hardly any slipping either.

Originally Posted by paragsachania

I am sure you will not have much to worry in terms of mechanicals associated with transmission now!

touchwood

EDIT: 2 questions for you:

Originally Posted by paragsachania

I see from the list that the Input shaft bearing was also replaced. May I know the reason?

The SA told be that this part is of clutch assembly and will be replaced.

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Also, what is the Job that the ASC was asking you to replace that cost 9000 INR? Could you be more clear? The shaft is clearly hinting at the Gearbox side

The SA told be that the gear box is made of two parts - the one with all gears and other containing the clutch set. The housing which contains the clutch assembly needs to be replace because the gear you see in the picture has worn out due to the shrilling noise and that is part of the housing only. He told me this can cause little noise on pressing clutch pedal. After the SA left the mechanic told me that it's not necessary to have the job done right now as this will not cause any mechanical problem. There is no noise as of now and I hope this remains as such.

[bluevolt]

Had the front right tyre punctured today morning, the entire tube also got damaged due to this cut.



For the time being I got the tyre repaired from the puncture guy by applying some seal and installed the new tube. This will serve as spare tyre now.

Tyre Repair = Rs. 200

New tube = Rs. 350

Total = Rs. 550

___________________________

Edit - This is the tyre which got punctured. It has good amount of tread left for at least another 10k KMs. Can I safely use it as main stream tyre after repair seal dries up in couple of days?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by bluevolt

Edit - This is the tyre which got punctured. It has good amount of tread left for at least another 10k KMs. Can I safely use it as main stream tyre after repair seal dries up in couple of days?

I advice you to go change the tyre than play with your life. A repaired tyre such a cut is dangerous. At decent Road speeds ur can tear away and not that our roads are silly smooth for you to cruise. The debris and stones will deteriorate the tyre, air pressure loss and heat build up - Tyre burst!

Change the tyre boss! That's all that I have to say my Lord!

OT: If possible paint those rims Black. It is a cheap @ home DIY. The white wheel cap and white rims don't get well.

Anurag.

[bluevolt]

I am planning to replace all four tyres shortly. What all options I have for the stock size tyres? Prices, better brand?

Current one is jktyre.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by bluevolt

I am planning to replace all four tyres shortly. What all options I have for the stock size tyres? Prices, better brand?

Current one is jktyre.

What is the stock size?

145 section or 155 section? I guess you'll have Michelin XM 2+ or Bridgestone Turanza ER 60.

Anurag.

[bluevolt]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

What is the stock size?

145 section or 155 section? I guess you'll have Michelin XM 2+ or Bridgestone Turanza ER 60.

Anurag.

Stock size is 145 cross section.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by bluevolt

Stock size is 145 cross section.

If it is 145/80 R12 then you have Bridgestone Turanza ER 60.

Anurag.

[bluevolt]

WagonR has 13" wheels -145/80 R13

[paragsachania]

WagonR Lxi 13 inch. Rim size 13 x 4j. Tire profile 145 70 13.
WagonR Vxi 13 inch. Rim size 13 x 4.5j. Tire profile 155 65 13.

You can easily fit 155 65 13 on Lxi Rim without any issues. My WagonR is also Lxi and current is 4th set which is 155 65 13 since last 3 sets.

My choice would be Michelin XM2 any day for a considerable improvement in ride quality also.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by bluevolt

WagonR has 13" wheels -145/80 R13

Originally Posted by paragsachania

WagonR Lxi 13 inch. Rim size 13 x 4j. Tire profile 145 70 13.
WagonR Vxi 13 inch. Rim size 13 x 4.5j. Tire profile 155 65 13.

You can easily fit 155 65 13 on Lxi Rim without any issues. My WagonR is also Lxi and current is 4th set which is 155 65 13 since last 3 sets.

My choice would be Michelin XM2 any day for a considerable improvement in ride quality also.

Sorry for the wrong information as I got it confused with the M 800.

Michelin's are utmost one for all but as a choice I think Bridgestone is also avaliable.

Anurag.