Team-BHP - Motorcycle Tyres : Compared!
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Quote:

Originally Posted by r_nairtvm (Post 3458584)
Not about tyres but related.

Are the major tyre shops equipped to balance the wheels after tyre installation ? Last time I changed a MC Tyre in India was ages ago and hence, this question.

What sort of weights are used - the sticker type or conventional wedges ? Also are led weights which fits on the spokes still available ?

Best Regards & Ride Safe

Ram

IIRC none of the tyre changing/balancing shops in India currently have anything for two wheelers, be it alloys or rims.

Quote:

Originally Posted by r_nairtvm (Post 3458584)
Not about tyres but related.

Are the major tyre shops equipped to balance the wheels after tyre installation ? Last time I changed a MC Tyre in India was ages ago and hence, this question.

What sort of weights are used - the sticker type or conventional wedges ? Also are led weights which fits on the spokes still available ?

Best Regards & Ride Safe

Ram

Unfortunately no. None of the rim replacements done by Bajaj for their KTMs (or Ninjas) have weights. None of the new 390s either. The old 200s had weights. Stick on types. Bajaj does prescribe a manual method of rotating the wheel and balancing it (by gravity) for the Ninjas and KTMs, but wonder how many of their authorized serice stations actually do it .....

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebonho (Post 3458781)
Unfortunately no. None of the rim replacements done by Bajaj for their KTMs (or Ninjas) have weights. None of the new 390s either. The old 200s had weights. Stick on types. Bajaj does prescribe a manual method of rotating the wheel and balancing it (by gravity) for the Ninjas and KTMs, but wonder how many of their authorized serice stations actually do it .....

Doc, I think D200 still have weights on the rims - I remember seeing them on the rims of my bike.

--Anoop

^^ My 390 (feb 2014) also has the stick on type weights

This will be slightly different review as in it is of a scooter tyre and not a motorcycle tyre. This tyre is installed on our Mahindra Flyte and ridden for 10K kms.

Metro Continental Navigator

Application:Front and Rear
Commonly used sizes : 3.5-10
Costs approx 1100 Rupees with Tube

If there was one of the worst tyres that i would like to list , this tyre would top that list! Mediocre wet grip and strictly average dry grip. Skids at the slightest hint of moisture on the road. No confidence at all to brake on wet roads forget pouring rain! Rock hard sidewall offers little or no cushioning. The rubber compound is hard and will easily last for 40K kms! There is hardly any wear after 10K kms.

Pros:
Average DRY grip

Cons:
Dangerously bad wet grip
Hard compound
No confidence in braking and turns

One word - AVOID . Continental tyres are crap. And this is no exception and holds the bad characters of continental tyres well!

If you want the tyres to last 40K plus kms then go for it. If you are putting this on your family vehicle then you are putting them at Risk!

Dunlop Geocruiser
Sizes: Rear 100/90-18, 100/90-17, 120/80-17

During a time when the trend was to put bigger tyres on your bike irrespective of all other factors, I foolishly bought a tube-type 120/80-17 Geocruiser on the rear of my P150 UG1 for about 2000 rs. They were good for about a month after which they dried out, or the soft outer layer wore off, or something.

Hands down this was the worst tyre I've had the misfortune to fit on my bike. Almost got into huge accidents because they would just start to slide at a hint of brake, whether it be wet or dry, mud or tarmac. No grip at all, it seems they are there solely for the sake of having something between the wheel and the road. The things should not be made in sizes to fit anything larger than 100cc.

MRF Zapper S

Size: 100/80-17 rear, Soft compound, used in the Yamaha R15 V1

The best tyre I have ever had on my P150. These were amazing in the dry and okay in the wet. I tend to drive sedately in the wet, so I can't really comment on the wet road performance. But they lasted only about 6000 kms on the heavier P150. After a long ride, you could sink your nails into the tyre and there would be a mark on it!

Kooway Geocruiser
Size: 100/90-17 Rear

Yup, that's right, KOOWAY Geocruiser! This is a Chinese replica of the Dunlop Geocruiser that I bought for the P150 so that it would have a good tyre when I sold it. stupid: Cost me 1100 bucks in 2013, inclusive of tube and fitting. I ended up keeping the bike and repainting it. It's not very good, but still better than the original Dunlop Geocruiser! Since I don't ride as hard as I used to, I can make do with these till I find something better, as they grip fairly well, being a medium-soft compound.

Can anyone suggest a good tyre for wet-dry use in 100/90-17 or 100/80-17 for Pulsar 150?

Hi Guys,

Need Help

I am a proud owner of Royal Enfield.
I have decided to change the wheels on my bike. I was looking for Shinko super classic 270 130/90 16". I even tried buying it through online shopping but due to customs restrictions, it was not cleared. :Frustrati

It would be great if you guys could help me get this tyre or similar size tyres from any brand or point me toward the vendor who can support me in getting the same? please:

Samuel

I changed tyres for my Ninja 250 today.

Michelin Pilot Street 110 x 70 x 17 for front and 130 x 70 x 17 for the rear.

The Handling has gone haywire after the tyre change (which was very good before the swap). It is hard to turn around and once upon cornering the tyre seems to stick to the position and hard to revert back to normal position.

What could cause this? No issue with the fork setting (rechecked it) and this strange behavior is only after tyre change. Should i replace the tyre? Check for fitting?

Suggestions welcome.

Tyre Pressure - 28 PSI front and 35 PSI Rear. Running on Nitrogen.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadBiker (Post 3467111)
I changed tyres for my Ninja 250 today.

Michelin Pilot Street 110 x 70 x 17 for front and 130 x 70 x 17 for the rear.

How many KMs you have ridden on these tyres? The reason I ask is that tyres take around 200-300 KMs to properly break in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rachit.K.Dogra (Post 3467126)
How many KMs you have ridden on these tyres? The reason I ask is that tyres take around 200-300 KMs to properly break in.

Rachit,

I have done about 50 by now and It is still the same. I understand it may take a while to break in - But a new tyre should not make the riding really tough. Even for speeds around 30 - 40, It has been tough to manoeuvre within the city and becoming dangerous at higher speeds.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadBiker (Post 3467111)
I changed tyres for my Ninja 250 today.

Michelin Pilot Street 110 x 70 x 17 for front and 130 x 70 x 17 for the rear.

The Handling has gone haywire after the tyre change (which was very good before the swap). It is hard to turn around and once upon cornering the tyre seems to stick to the position and hard to revert back to normal position.

What could cause this? No issue with the fork setting (rechecked it) and this strange behavior is only after tyre change. Should i replace the tyre? Check for fitting?

Suggestions welcome.

Tyre Pressure - 28 PSI front and 35 PSI Rear. Running on Nitrogen.

This is a know issue with these tyres. Couple of other members have also experienced the same. Feeling of heaviness.

I would suggest that you break in the tyre by riding a thousand kms. I have read that the grip is awesome. Things will get better once the tyre has broken in

^^ All I have done is 15k + in three years.

I want an upgrade. The one on ZMRs are the worst I have ever come across.

A friend suggested mich.

I want something better.

Never in my life I have been so scared. One of the worst zappers in all my 4L of riding.

Please suggest a more stable Tyre that can settle down in 100 kms.

A 1000 kms breakin period for a tyre is not acceptable. Atleast not in these times!

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadBiker (Post 3467130)
Rachit,

I have done about 50 by now and It is still the same. I understand it may take a while to break in - But a new tyre should not make the riding really tough. Even for speeds around 30 - 40, It has been tough to manoeuvre within the city and becoming dangerous at higher speeds.


Put the bike on a center stand/paddock and rotate each wheel. While doing that, observe if the tyre beadings have seated properly or if there is a variation somewhere.

Either this or the alignment (chain tightening settings at the half-axle) are misaligned. Do check and report back.


Quote:

Originally Posted by YaeJay (Post 3467262)
Never in my life I have been so scared. One of the worst zappers in all my 4L of riding.

Please suggest a more stable Tyre that can settle down in 100 kms.

A 1000 kms breakin period for a tyre is not acceptable. Atleast not in these times!

Hunt for MRF Zapper FV 2.75x18. THis tyre comes in only one size and do not confuse with the crappy Zapper FS. This is the best tyre you can get for this size. My ZMA runs this tyre and RX ran same tyre when it had an 18inch front wheel setup. This tyre has white reflective strips on the sidewalls as standard so distinguishing would be easy.

http://www.mrftyres.com/products/tyres/zapper-fv

For the rear tyre, I have the Michelin SIrac Street 100/90-18 on my RD and its been horrible. For the ZMA, I chose Ceat Secura Zoom and it has been surprisingly good! Much recommended.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi (Post 3467292)
Put the bike on a center stand/paddock and rotate each wheel. While doing that, observe if the tyre beadings have seated properly or if there is a variation somewhere.

Either this or the alignment (chain tightening settings at the half-axle) are misaligned. Do check and report back.

Removed the tyre, refitted it - Issue still persisted.

Lowered the Tyre pressure by 5 PSI and noticeable improvement. I believe it could be an error with the Meter used. Would remove / refill normal air and play around with it to find the sweet spot.

For now, reducing the tyre pressure seems to have helped a bit, Thanks!

Where can we find tyre manufacturer recommended PSI ratings? Automobile manufacturers do give the recommended numbers but that could be keeping in mind everything else but the grip and longevity of the tyre, like FE for example.

Does anyone know if the motorcycle manufacturer's and the tyre manufacturer's recommended PSI is the same? If not, which one do you / would you rely on?


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