[nasirkaka]

Thanks for the links. I am now getting very interested in putting spoke wheel at the front... Is there someone on the HSR, Koramangala side who can help?

As suggested by doc, Indimotard guys are the ones u can trust with major modifications such as these. Infact the pic of the modified 390, with spoked rim which was floating a while back was done by them. That bike is still lying at their garage. They are located lose to ESI hospital at white fields and their garage is called grease house.


Some r&D going on for the luggage plate. seems to be some issues with measurements. The holders will have to be re-made now. :(

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Some r&D going on for the luggage plate. seems to be some issues with measurements. The holders will have to be re-made now. :(

Looks very nicely made. Is it going to be over the pillion seat or will the pillion seat still be free?

Also, depending on the type of weight you plan to mount on this, would be a good idea to have a cross strut on each side between each rearmost corner of the platform and the bottom of the two pillars which are going to bolt into the two bolt holes of the grab rails on each side - to make a triangle, and distribute forces.

[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

...

Some r&D going on for the luggage plate. seems to be some issues with measurements. The holders will have to be re-made now. :(

Your original measurements may be correct but designing with sheet metal requires bend allowances to be added to compensate for metal in the bends. I don't know if this is the source of the mistake.

The frame seems to be bolted to the brackets. Do you intend to use the brackets for other purposes also? If not, then the frame and brackets could be a one-piece part and thus add reliability.

The frame looks nice but keep in mind that laser cut steel sheet has very sharp (but burr-free) edges and soft materials like nylon or other plastics can be cut quite easily.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

The frame looks nice but keep in mind that laser cut steel sheet has very sharp (but burr-free) edges and soft materials like nylon or other plastics can be cut quite easily.

You know motard I was thinking EXACTLY the same thing - for something related I was planning to do.

You know a problem most Duke guys have (am surprised I have not read about it any place) is the fact that the split grab rails are open on one (rear) side. So the bungee hooks or buckled straps (of saddle bags for instance) do not get decent purchase, and have the risk of simply slipping off backward when the bike goes over a bump or pothole at speed. So you risk losing your luggage on tour.

What I was planning was getting either a hole or a slightly elongated slot cut into the slight inward bent ends of each of the grabrails - and that is when I though of exactly the same point your brought up - i.e. sharp edges fraying the nylong straps of my saddle bags or the bungees.

So the solution I was thinking about was chamfering - or going at the edges manually with a file or a rotary burr.

P.S. We have been cribbing about this one small thing since the 200 days now. BAJAJ PLEASE GIVE US LUGGAGE HOOKS!

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

BAJAJ PLEASE GIVE US LUGGAGE HOOKS!

Can't afford that 0.005g increase in weight.. - KTM Logic!

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Can't afford that 0.005g increase in weight.. - KTM Logic!

Two things are a major pain in the rear wrt luggage mounting when on tour.

1) No luggage hooks

2) Position of rear indicators

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

1) No luggage hooks

2) Position of rear indicators

Agreed completely. Ironically, I have even used the indicator stacks as bungee hook points!

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Agreed completely. Ironically, I have even used the indicator stacks as bungee hook points!

Did you stop doing that after you paid 650 bucks to replace each of them?

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Did you stop doing that after you paid 650 bucks to replace each of them?

Not really. They held up well. It was only a light backpack with a couple of clothes.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Not really. They held up well. It was only a light backpack with a couple of clothes.

Actually the rear fender is pretty hard plastic. I don't know how it would take the stress of bungee hooks if we drilled holes on either side? Or just slots/notches.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Actually the rear fender is pretty hard plastic. I don't know how it would take the stress of bungee hooks if we drilled holes on either side? Or just slots/notches.

Yep the plastics are hard. Even that indicator stack is tougher than it looks. One idea I thought during a cursing session while securing the tail bag was to make a u shaped clamp that can be bolted to the screws/allen key bolts on the under side of the rear fender.

Or drill the hole as shown below like some guys had already done.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Yep the plastics are hard. Even that indicator stack is tougher than it looks. One idea I thought during a cursing session while securing the tail bag was to make a u shaped clamp that can be bolted to the screws/allen key bolts on the under side of the rear fender.

Or drill the hole as shown below like some guys had already done.

That hole is a common fix though not needed - because the two hooks close to the rider have many different places they can be snagged against, no problem. The pillion footrest pillar close to the plastic cowl, the trellis frame, being two commonly used ones.

Its the two hooks to the rear that need a safe and secure and strong anchor point.

The allen key bolts idea of yours might work though I would be very wary because they are threaded into plastic (lower into top) and not into metal chassis foundation, and can (will?) simply rip off over time.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

The allen key bolts idea of yours might work though I would be very wary because they are threaded into plastic (lower into top) and not into metal chassis foundation, and can (will?) simply rip off over time.

Aah! I thought they bolted directly onto the subframe! If they are going into the plastics, then I would'nt put a sideways load on that!

[nasirkaka]

Looks very nicely made. Is it going to be over the pillion seat or will the pillion seat still be free?

Also, depending on the type of weight you plan to mount on this, would be a good idea to have a cross strut on each side between each rearmost corner of the platform and the bottom of the two pillars which are going to bolt into the two bolt holes of the grab rails on each side - to make a triangle, and distribute forces.

Thanks for the inputs. my friend who made the drawing for this said that we do not require the cross struts as we are using 2.5mm CR MS sheet. We would be requiring the same if the sheet thickness was lesser. But even i feel what you suggested would make it much more sturdy. And the plate is coming over the pillion seat, else there would be too much of cantilever. Main idea was that i could mount my givi replica hard box on to this place using the 4 holes. Will take it as first proto, and refine it thereafter.

Your original measurements may be correct but designing with sheet metal requires bend allowances to be added to compensate for metal in the bends. I don't know if this is the source of the mistake.

The frame seems to be bolted to the brackets. Do you intend to use the brackets for other purposes also? If not, then the frame and brackets could be a one-piece part and thus add reliability.

The frame looks nice but keep in mind that laser cut steel sheet has very sharp (but burr-free) edges and soft materials like nylon or other plastics can be cut quite easily.

we had factored in bending tolerances. Its more like a case of bending angles not being correct. Also i had to keep the bracket and the plate as separate parts, else i will not be able to fix the pillion seat. will files the holes a bit before powdercoating to prevent the sharp edges.

[black12rr]

I just transferred the rack from 200 to 390 . Very helpful to move the bike and haul all kinds of loads .