[nasirkaka]

The original Metzelers are still lasting at 12K kms? No scary moments in the twisties?

yes yes.. th metz are holding good and thank god, did not have any scary moments on the highways or ghats. One thing i noticed was the weight of the saddle bag did impact the lean-ins, as the difference was greatly felt on one of the days, when riding without the saddle bag.
one friend on a DS500 lost the grip on the rear tyre at one of the curves on the hill and got kissed by an oncoming jeep. the bulls silencer got pushed inwards and the RHS rear indicator and number plate got damaged. However, there is was fall, and no injuries.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

And Doc, my metz is still holding up okay at 13700Kms although TWI is out and I am guessing it might last for only another 200-250kms of city use.

What is TWI? (aaah, sorry, tyre wear indicator! )

I wish these tyres had harder compound in the center. They are an expensive consumable, and when you are belting in a straight line, I keep wondering what a waste that nice soft sticky rubber is and wish there was a magic button I could press to convert them to MRF Revz for that moment/stretch/day/tour .....

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

What is TWI?

I wish these tyres had harder compound in the center. They are an expensive consumable, and when you are belting in a straight line, I keep wondering what a waste that nice soft sticky rubber is and wish there was a magic button I could press to convert them to MRF Revz for that moment/stretch/day/tour .....

Tread Wear Indicators. Now my wear indicators are at the same level as the tire tread.

Actually, the Sportec M5s already has a dual compound construction for the center and sides. Hard one for the center and softer ones for sides. Also the underlying steel belt has different tensions at different sections for optimum grip while cornering.

PS: Check these links out

http://ashonbikes.com/content/metzel...ract-technical

http://www.ashonbikes.com/content/me...-interact-test

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

PS: Check these links out

http://ashonbikes.com/content/metzel...ract-technical

http://www.ashonbikes.com/content/me...-interact-test

Good stuff!

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Good stuff!

I have stopped cribbing about the price of the Metz ever since reading those articles. I guess this picture alone should describe its capabilities.



Quoting Kevin

It's not supposed to... but look at the S1000RR lift its rear wheel, even in the wet!

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by basuroy

Rode for 5 kilometer without stop but not straight (frequent turns but devoid of traffic ) using only rear brake and front just once for a few seconds halfway through the ride . Average speed indicated on console was 54kmph with 25/30 kph frequent fluctuation either way.

Front was warm , not hot but not slight either . Ambient temperature outside should be around 23 cel. Didn't feel abnormal though (not that I have an accurate idea but my guess ).

Rear was scorching hot . I have previously observed after rides involving both brakes(rear only during turns , slowing down ) that the rear is always hotter than the front - suppose it is because of the smaller dia. of the rotor.

After that I rode about another 10km using front and the temp. was not high at all .

Your findings indicate the front brake is not dragging and overheating so ruling that out leaves several other possibilities.

I have read on the forum that at some dealerships the people who wash the mototcycle after the mechanics finished their work have washed the disk brake calipers and disks using some sort of petroleum. As I recall, they had used diesel fuel.
The use of anything other than regular water on these parts will contaminate the disks and brake pads. I realize you have not had a mechanic work on your motorcycle but if you have cleaned the disk brakes with anything but water there is a chance that your disk and pads require the use of a dedicated disk brake cleaner.
This fluid totally destroys any petroleum or soap that has been deposited on the brake parts.

Another possibility is some air has entered your brake system. This usually produces a "spongy" feeling in the brake lever. It can be corrected by bleeding the brakes hydraulic system.

Also possible is a break down of the rubber hose that connects the master cylinder at the hand grip to the brake caliper. This can also create a spongy feeling in the hand grip. If the hose has a woven metal braiding on it the reinforced hose may produce poor braking when little pressure is applied but seem normal when a great deal of pressure is applied. This can be a dangerous condition and can only be repaired by replacing the defective hose.

The brake caliper normally moves laterally very little but it must be free to move when the brakes are applied. If corrosion or a lack of the proper lubricant on the sliding pins or surfaces is the case, poor braking will result.
This can only be corrected by disassembling the caliper unit and should only be done by a good mechanic.

Because the Duke has ABS, it's possible the ABS control has developed a problem. As you know, the ABS will reduce the braking power if it detects a wheel lock up. A defective ABS may be reducing the braking power even though the wheel is not locking up.

Please make a major point of your brake issues when you have your motorcycle serviced. Make sure they totally understand that the issue grows worse after using the brakes hard while riding for some distance.
You do not want their mechanic to take it on a once around the block ride only to return and tell you "everything is fine".

[AMG_ang]

Yesterday I got my 1st paid service at KTM KALYANI MOTORS, Banshankari 3rd stage.
After the service, i'm facing a problem that whenever I lean on to the corners, I feel that the rear of the bike is resisting the turn and not following the front end of the bike. I suspect that there is a problem that the cone-set of the bike is gone stiff. Has anyone faced such a problem? Or could there be any other problem with the bike?

[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by AMG_ang

Yesterday I got my 1st paid service at KTM KALYANI MOTORS, Banshankari 3rd stage.
After the service, i'm facing a problem that whenever I lean on to the corners, I feel that the rear of the bike is resisting the turn and not following the front end of the bike. I suspect that there is a problem that the cone-set of the bike is gone stiff. Has anyone faced such a problem? Or could there be any other problem with the bike?

The culprit could be wrong air pressure in the tyres. Check that first.

[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Your findings indicate the front brake is not dragging and overheating so ruling that out leaves several other possibilities.

...
You do not want their mechanic to take it on a once around the block ride only to return and tell you "everything is fine".

@basuroy
I agree with Jim's advice but have you compared the braking of your bike to another 390? Brand new brake pads do tend to be a bit grabby and as they bed-in the bite reduces a bit until it becomes constant. This effect is more pronounced with new bikes since both the pads and the discs are new and have flat surfaces.

[anilp]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Had a good 4 days trip to Valparai and Munnar. My first longish ride on the 390 after 12k kms on the odo.
First day into the ride and i think my fuel sensor went kaput. Even on full tank it showed low fuel warning throughout. That was a bummer as i could not keep track of other data from the console. (has anyone faced similar issue? how much it takes to get it replaced? is is readily available?) .

That's a great ride you had the fuel sensor is really available. Did the petrol pump guys handle the dispenser roughly by any chance while filling fuel?

I'm asking this because I saw the same issue happen to my bike twice in the initial days. Both the times the guys had just plonked the dispenser nozzle in the tank and walked away for other work. Thankfully the gauge started working normally after some time. Although I'm not sure that is the case, insist that the pump guys fill petrol carefully every time you fill up.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by anilp

I'm asking this because I saw the same issue happen to my bike twice in the initial days. Both the times the guys had just plonked the dispenser nozzle in the tank and walked away for other work. Thankfully the gauge started working normally after some time. Although I'm not sure that is the case, insist that the pump guys fill petrol carefully every time you fill up.

I am not sure if that is an issue with the fuel level sensor. Sometimes the Duke's fuel gauge will take some time to get to the correct reading after a fuel refill. Moreover, like other bikes, the Duke too has a stopper plate at the fuel inlet to prevent the nozzle from going all the way down and creating any damage.

[anilp]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

the Duke too has a stopper plate at the fuel inlet to prevent the nozzle from going all the way down and creating any damage.

Only the RC has it right? I'm yet to see this plate on the 2013 models. I'll check that.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by anilp

Only the RC has it right? I'm yet to see this plate on the 2013 models. I'll check that.

Have'nt seen the plate in RC, but I am guessing that it should be there. Although the stopper plate may not be easily visible in the Duke, it is very well there and is doing its job.

[anilp]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Have'nt seen the plate in RC, but I am guessing that it should be there. Although the stopper plate may not be easily visible in the Duke, it is very well there and is doing its job.

The RC one is quite visible. Of a type I've not seen on Dukes. It just doesn't allow the nozzle to be dunked into the tank, as is the case with Dukes.

[ebonho]

Useful Duke Trivia

If the rubber bands holding the tool kit to the pillion seat break or are lost etc., and you cannot find the original ones the company gives with the bike (which is almost always), then the best solution is to use Bajaj Pulsar NS 200's oil filter O-ring (Part No. JG571016). List Price Rs. 5.07 each.