[kedar3223]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

In their chronological order:

1. If you could perhaps let us know the MY bike you're looking into, it would be even more helpful.

It is a oct 2022 bike.

2. Engine oil level should always be checked on a lukewarm engine, But for instantaneous correct reading a mildly warmed up engine, and waiting for 5 mins will yield correct oil level.

Noted. Will check it again. I'm guessing when I checked, the bike wasnt started for a few days as the battery while starting dropped to around 6.5v and had to be cranked 3 to 4 times before starting. But quickly regained it's juice and charged back to the usual 14 14.5v. Did not see any oil pressure warning, so I guess it should be fine.

3. 1550 to 1650 RPM for a warmed up engine.

The cold start had the bike fluctuating between 1.5 to 1.9K. Once ridden it did fall down but it wasn't a dead constant idle like on a 150cc bike. There was a little fluctuation in rpm.

4. The newer gen bikes are accustomed to this.

5. You can perhaps get some insights from the given service center manager, if they are kind enough to show it from their computer screens or a print out. I would suggest, they would oblige at least if you want to look into the screen and take a photograph of the last maintenance record, that should help clear the doubt.

I will look into this. Had varying experience with different brands, with royal Enfield being the most cooperative.

[accidental.doc]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Speaking of pillions, I'm looking for a pillion compatible luggage solution, and came upon this rack (very difficult finding stuff for the Gen 1 Dukes now ... Mostly its for 2017 and beyond Dukes, which will not fit our bikes) -

I had one of the standard 4 point mount rear luggage attachment for a year, it had a weight limit of 10KG but the unit self weighed 5KG or so and with a loaded box it exceeds 10KG and it broke the upper mounting points on the chassis .
Had to get the chassis mount points welded and got GIVI D390 gen 1 unit, difficult to find/ nobody keeps stock, but much lighter, even distribution of weight and can hold a 10KG box.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by accidental.doc

I had one of the standard 4 point mount rear luggage attachment for a year, it had a weight limit of 10KG but the unit self weighed 5KG or so and with a loaded box it exceeds 10KG and it broke the upper mounting points on the chassis .
Had to get the chassis mount points welded and got GIVI D390 gen 1 unit, difficult to find/ nobody keeps stock, but much lighter, even distribution of weight and can hold a 10KG box.

I don't want a huge box or anything. Just a small duffle bag with clothes for 2 for maybe 3-4 days. Would be surprised if it weighs more than 5 kilos.

Sharing a couple of photos with a generic Gen 1 Duke tail rack, clicked and shared by Team BHPian @surjaonwheelz





Cheers, Doc

[ebonho]

Hey guys. Especially Gen 1ers. But would love to hear everyone all the same.

What RPMs do you have your Shift 1 and Shift 2 lights set at?

I've been probably still pussying the bike around as I get back my road legs but I was mildly disappointed at never seeing the telltale red flashing from the periphery of my vision.

So went back to my trusty online copy of the manual (much cyber thumbed off late) on my phone and checked what I have it set at on the clock right now (plus the actual clock was running 2 hours late too and needed to be set to my phone time ... actual wrist watches now being like fountain pens, a fashion accessory ... but I ramble on and digress) and checked.

Shift 1 8000 rpm.

Shift 2 9000 rpm.

So not surprising (happily for self and all around) that I'm not seeing the red flashing ...

So what would be good settings for spirited fast riding in and around the city (no highway, no race track-y ghat twisties)?

Looking forward to your views and personal set points!

Cheers, Doc

[Dhruv Shetty]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Hey guys. Especially Gen 1ers. But would love to hear everyone all the same.

What RPMs do you have your Shift 1 and Shift 2 lights set at?

I've been probably still pussying the bike around as I get back my road legs but I was mildly disappointed at never seeing the telltale red flashing from the periphery of my vision.

Looking forward to your views and personal set points!

Cheers, Doc

Hey Doc,

I have set shift light 1 at 8000 and shift light 2 at 9500, for my style of riding. But now as I have recently gotten addicted to full throttle acceleration, will need to increase it by 500 or ignore it and go by the sound and feel of the engine.

Take your time and get to know the bike again, it took me 3 years to understand mine. The bike still surprises me to this day, I still have to max out this bike, there's lot more to learn from this 390.

Cheers,
Dhruv Shetty.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Dhruv Shetty

Hey Doc,

Take your time and get to know the bike again

Cheers,
Dhruv Shetty.

Golden words Dhruv.

Cheers, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Hey guys. Especially Gen 1ers. But would love to hear everyone all the same. What RPMs do you have your

I've maxed out on both the RPMs on mine primarily to diss the constant reminder of karva chauth insurance policy.

It's good habit for beginners to know where to shift to get the max out of each gear and RPM. The lights are very handy for beginners to prevent them from constantly over-revving/mis-matched gear/RPM ratio which can damage the engine.

For experienced riders as such, the reminder is superficial to say the least. Once they get used to the RPM and power delivery character of the bike, which is pretty much burned in memory of the rider, as he gets used to the bike, the bevy of little reminders wouldn't matter much.

As they say every rider is new rider on a new road.

Enjoy the machine doc

Cheers!
VJ

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

I've maxed out on both the RPMs on mine primarily to diss the constant reminder of karva chauth insurance policy.

Enjoy the machine doc

Cheers!
VJ

All true and well and good Vijay, but I want the two numbers please.

Next brain picking is gonna be rider weight and rear shocker setting.

Cheets, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by ebonho

All true and well and good Vijay, but I want the two numbers please.

Next brain picking is gonna be rider weight and rear shocker setting.

Cheets, Doc

Don't bother about the numbers doc, they don't matter.. for now. You riding it safe and sound is what matters. Rider weight and shocker setting is a good starting point. The bike has 10 settings and the stock is set at 3, going CW will soften and ACW will progressively increase the preload. Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Don't bother about the numbers doc, they don't matter.. for now. You riding it safe and sound is what matters. Rider weight and shocker setting is a good starting point. The bike has 10 settings and the stock is set at 3, going CW will soften and ACW will progressively increase the preload. Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

Oh 10?! I thought 5.

So what for a 85-ish guy (in only his bath towel)????

Closer to 88 off season.

Cheers, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Oh 10?! I thought 5.

So what for a 85-ish guy (in only his bath towel)????

Closer to 88 off season.

Cheers, Doc

Try 4th notch, it will stiffen the rear and prevent the infamous squat to a large extent. This also makes the bike maintain clearance with a loaded up rear. Try 4, it makes a difference doc, correct stiffness without compromising the cushioniness.

Cheers!
VJ

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Try 4th notch, it will stiffen the rear and prevent the infamous squat to a large extent. This also makes the bike maintain clearance with a loaded up rear. Try 4, it makes a difference doc, correct stiffness without compromising the cushioniness.

Cheers!
VJ

Thanks bro. Mine is at 7.

As I recall, it was at 5 (midway point) for the longest time. And I'd had the service guys ratchet it up two notches fir my saddlebags just before the north Sikkim tour in 2016.

I don't think I had them changed back when I returned.

And then she got garaged and forgotten till now.

I don't really have a problem with a stiff ride, coming off of 6 years of riding alloy race road bikes on 23 mm tyres pumped up to 110 psi.

Bracing becomes second nature.





Cheers, Doc

[ebonho]

How to measure Front and Rear riding sag on a motorcycle -

https://youtu.be/ZtzTyCKh5fY?si=IDREmVDpz-jQQrGj

The Duke 390 manual recommendation is to 50-55 mm for the rear.

This is in line with the general rule if thumb of 1/3rd your suspension travel ... which for the Duke 390 is 150 mm front and rear.

They also mention 3 clicks for Standard and 10 clicks for Full Payload.

Somewhere else I read 3 clicks for Standard (Street), and 6 clicks for Sport.

Cheers, Doc

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ebonho

How to measure Front and Rear riding sag on a motorcycle -

The Duke 390 manual recommendation is to 50-55 mm for the rear.

This is in line with the general rule if thumb of 1/3rd your suspension travel ... which for the Duke 390 is 150 mm front and rear.

Cheers, Doc

Most firang forums for the Gen 1 Duke 390 around 2015-15 feel 50-55 mm is a tad excessive as riding sag for fast riding, but okay for street.

The rule of thumb of 1/3rd of suspension travel is more for street, and for sport riding it is toward 1/4th of suspension travel.

So the general consensus for faster riding seems to gravitate more towards 40 mm of riding sag versus the recommended 50-55 mm.

Just putting it out there. I'm not recommending people go against what the manual recommends.

Cheers, Doc

[ebonho]

Chasing Demons!













Tamhini blast after centuries (last did this loop with the Ducati boys maybe 8 years back)! From Mulshi road. Went down the ghat and raced back up for some black coffee at Kokan Darshan.

Superb roads. Very little traffic. Twisties most of the way. 180 adrenaline filled kilometres with two litre class beasts, ridden by guys for whom this road is their private practice track. Know each corner, every turn. While I was rolling off the throttle (pinned most of the way in 3-4-5) on every blind crest or tightening loop. Good fun!

The return was much better, as I started getting the feel of my tyres and bike and the road surface. But then my furl pump started playing up (I hope). So limped back.

Cheers, Doc