MRA V-Flow Z-Type Windshield - Installation & review Why a windshield?
I am using the bike, whatever the designer intended usage, as a tourer largely. However the Duchess becomes very canine when you cross 120kmph. The wind buffeting makes it a pain to ride & downright dangerous. So, if you are going to use her as a tourer, a windshield is a must. The dinky standard issue one is a joke!
The alternatives
The KTM thread on T-BHP has a couple of low cost options where windshields from other bikes are being re-purposed for the Duke 390 with varying degrees of success. The Fazer windshield seems to be the front-runner - being cheap & easy to mount and being fairly effective. The CBR250 windshield has found favour with a few.
In my opinion, the installs are very kludgy by their nature, despite the obvious expertise of the people who have done it. The angle of the borrowed windshields are are too steep to be aesthetically pleasing, at least to my eye.
So, I decided on getting a 'proper' windshield. Considered MRA V-Flow C type, Z-type, RNB and the Givi windshield. The Givi I dropped because it was expensive, a pain to cart from Malaysia and clear. I did not like the RNB. It was a toss up between the C-type & Z-type. I plumped for the Z-type because it was 'for the Duke 125' - bad choice!
In retrospect, the C-type is the correct alternative. The Z-type is not an eyesore but is certainly not for the Duke!
I sourced it from JV Promoto & Vikas Malhotra there is thoroughly professional to deal with. Recommend the man & the company wholeheartedly!
Installation
Everything needed for installation comes in the box. Even though you might think otherwise, trust me, it is ALL there! I thought the shim for the clamp & one bolt was missing but the buggers were just hiding in plain sight!
The things for attaching the windshield
The windshield itself
While the installation is simple, it is fiddly.
Kit
You need a complete set of hex or Allen keys, a screw driver, a cutter, a decent box spanner set & your own selection of choice swear words.
Process
To start with, remove the existing dinky screen. Remove the 4 bolts & the screen comes away easy. But if you decide, like me, to put back the bolts in the same place (sans screen), beware that the rubber flange is actually the bolt also. If you press too hard, it will fall in & you will have to open the head light assembly to fish it out. (I learnt this the hard way!)
Also, do the process in a well lit area with sufficient space. Murphy works overtime when you put this on - one bolt escaped and dropped into the sump protection plastic shroud. Had to open all six bolts to take it out!
The first problem was finding the space on the handle bar to fit the clamps! If you like the hand guard, like I do, there is precious little space. I have also installed a phone holder - a very useful device on the move. So that ate up real estate as well. So, the first problem was creating the space. I undid the bar-end side of the hand guard so that I can put the shims on. I also had to remove the tie-rap that holds the cables from the lever together.
I had a strange problem - I could put the clamps on the shim on the RHS. On the LHS, I could not close the clamps, come what may! Must have been due to the curve of the handle. Got hold of a couple of rubber shims from bicycle mounting gear & put it on. (You need to put the clamp with the depression end down, put the bit that holds the bar that holds the windshield on it, put in the long bolt & place the nut on the bottom clamp locator. Then, you need to kind of force the bolt into alignment with the nut. The description is involved but in practice, it is quite easy. But on the LHS, it would not align at all with the given shims but did with the rubber shims).
The rod connecting the screen to the clamp has a ball jointed flange which takes a couple of Allen key bolts for tightening the ball joint. The holes on the flange for these are of specific orientation.
Then the screen is then attached to the flange with 2 allen keys each. It is fairly simple to do this but take care to :
- - Centre the screen. The rods should be roughly equal
- - Ensure that the screen is NOT touching the instrument cluster.
. I found, on usage, about 1 cm clearance is required. Avoid the temptation to mount it close to or touching the pod. This rattles pretty badly, being cantilevered, whenever you hit any unevenness on the road.[/list]
After mounting & tightening all the bolts, add on the caps provided for a clean finish. Viola, you are done! (Took about 90 minutes including fishing for various parts which went AWOL!)
Images after installation:
From the side
Front:
Profile
Usage
Other than the rattle issue, the windscreen works as designed. On the test run this morning, I hit 140kmph+ a couple of times. The wind blast was absent.
Personally, I felt the noise had increased as the wind is directed towards the helmet. I think with a few minor tweaks, this should get addressed. If you are so inclined, I think you can easily crouch behind it for greater speed.
At night, the instrument cluster reflects back into the screen - could be distracting for some. It did not bother me.
Conclusion
The MRA screen is certainly better than the OEM screen & serves the purpose. Is 9000 worth it? In my honest opinion, no. One should be able to source something equally good at around 3000-4500. My thought process in going with a 9k option was that it is not bike specific. Therefore, if you are a hardcore biker, it is worth the money. If you are more casual, may be not be.
Is it better than cobbled up Fazer/ CBR windscreens? Certainly. But cant beat the price!
I believe it is safer. But dont want to find out!