[samschenker]

Originally Posted by theexperthand

I will be replacing the whole set (now I have done 18K+ on one set) and the SVC quoted me around 3400 for the change, inclusive of labor changes.

What is the typical chain\sprocket replacement interval for Duke 200? How much mileage does one gen on average from a chain\sprocket set?

Do I have any other (better) options available aftermarket? Or, is it best bet to go ahead with SVC? Is the price quoted fair?

--Anoop

3.4K for D200 sounds expensinve, check if they quoted for a 390 or 200, AFAIK 390 kit costs more and around the price you have mentioned. I paid much less when I changed the kit first time at ~15K km on the odo.

For the second time(around 32K km) opted for rolon kit which I had bought from a shop in Jayanagar, they are also available in JC Road (Nilesh Auto, contact# nine nine 4 5 nine 7 6 nine 1 zero). Rolon has two kits 42T and 43T rear sprockets, costed around 1.7K.

Rolon are the OE suppliers for bajaj and they are as good as the OE replacements. I am due change for my chain/sprocket kit soon.

Contact indimotard they might be able to get the rolon kit for you.

[Darth Sid]

Originally Posted by unk9ja

and it resonates at a particular rpm range of 4-4.5k. Other than these there are no other observations. I was one of the few who picked up these in the early days and it is not powder coated. So it stands out.

On my 200, it resonates at around 6k rpm. I haven't yet got around to installing any rubber washers yet. This weekend I will try to make something on my own, if possible. Do you have a picture of the uncoated plate on your bike. I am curious as to how it looks.

Originally Posted by theexperthand

Went to SVC today to get the chain adjusted and while the rear sprocket and chain are in good condition, my front sprocket teeth are slightly bend (forgot to take a picture) so they will need replacement in near future.

I will be replacing the whole set (now I have done 18K+ on one set) and the SVC quoted me around 3400 for the change, inclusive of labor changes.

What is the typical chain\sprocket replacement interval for Duke 200? How much mileage does one gen on average from a chain\sprocket set?

Do I have any other (better) options available aftermarket? Or, is it best bet to go ahead with SVC? Is the price quoted fair?

--Anoop

The teeth do not bend. The get worn out in that manner. On my P220 I had stretched the chain set to about 20,000+ km which was longer than on our old Bullet. However, you can replace just the front sprocket to use the chain set for a short while longer. On the Bullet it was a time consuming task to get to the front sprocket but not on these more contemporary bikes. I used to get the front sprocket at least once before changing the whole set.

Before I got my last chain set replacement done, I got the front sprocket replaced twice whilst paying only for labour as the SVC took the old worn sprockets off other bikes which had come in for chain set replacement. They did that because I didn't want to spend money at the time as I had a ride planned on some dusty and dirty trails and didn't want to spoil the new chain set.

Now I got the new chain set in the end of May, I think. Costs had gone up so my bill was around 2100 to 2200, including labour. It used be under 2k a couple of years back. 3.4k is too damn much! @samschenker has already provided some really good advice. I'd say ask at another SVC too.

Originally Posted by samschenker

For the second time(around 32K km) opted for rolon kit which I had bought from a shop in Jayanagar, they are also available in JC Road (Nilesh Auto, contact# nine nine 4 5 nine 7 6 nine 1 zero). Rolon has two kits 42T and 43T rear sprockets, costed around 1.7K.

Rolon are the OE suppliers for bajaj and they are as good as the OE replacements. I am due change for my chain/sprocket kit soon.

Rolon is the OEM for many manufacturers. The only other reputed maker of drive chains is Diamond. Our old Bullet's final drive chain is Rolon, without o-rings. The primary chain was Diamond. We buy spare chain locks made by Diamond and have been since I can recall.

If the 43T version is available, I would go for that but I have already got mine replaced. The 43T version was slightly more fun and the bike felt peppier with it. The 42T version dulled that slightly.

[unk9ja]

Originally Posted by Darth Sid

Do you have a picture of the uncoated plate on your bike. I am curious as to how it looks.

Here you go

The stock plastic cowl


The Indi bashplate


Bottom view


Another pic


View from the handlebar area


Side profile


Another view

[theexperthand]

Originally Posted by samschenker

3.4K for D200 sounds expensinve, check if they quoted for a 390 or 200, AFAIK 390 kit costs more and around the price you have mentioned. I paid much less when I changed the kit first time at ~15K km on the odo.

Thank you - will check if they are trying to give me a D390 kit. The OEM on my bike is Rolon - I checked my chain and confirmed that. Will check with SVC if they are OK if I procure the chain from outside and if they are not, then I will head over to Indimotard.

Originally Posted by Darth Sid

The teeth do not bend. The get worn out in that manner. On my P220 I had stretched the chain set to about 20,000+ km which was longer than on our old Bullet. However, you can replace just the front sprocket to use the chain set for a short while longer.

Here is the picture of my sprocket. This is 19K when I clicked the picture. Even though the other parts looks fine, I am not much interested in getting the front sprocket alone changed since I believe it is better to change the set together.

Before I got my last chain set replacement done, I got the front sprocket replaced twice whilst paying only for labour as the SVC took the old worn sprockets off other bikes which had come in for chain set replacement. They did that because I didn't want to spend money at the time as I had a ride planned on some dusty and dirty trails and didn't want to spoil the new chain set.

Good strategy!

Now I got the new chain set in the end of May, I think. Costs had gone up so my bill was around 2100 to 2200, including labour. It used be under 2k a couple of years back. 3.4k is too damn much! @samschenker has already provided some really good advice. I'd say ask at another SVC too.

Rolon is the OEM for many manufacturers. The only other reputed maker of drive chains is Diamond. Our old Bullet's final drive chain is Rolon, without o-rings. The primary chain was Diamond. We buy spare chain locks made by Diamond and have been since I can recall.

If the 43T version is available, I would go for that but I have already got mine replaced. The 43T version was slightly more fun and the bike felt peppier with it. The 42T version dulled that slightly.

Thank you - I will certainly check about the chain set more before I change. Old D200s used to come with 4 stem rear sprockets and then they changed it to 6 stem sprockets. My bike is a 6 stem model, so not sure if 43T is avilable in my configuration, but still worth checking

--Anoop

[Darth Sid]

Originally Posted by unk9ja

Here you go

Now I wish mine was uncoated aluminium too! Black looks very inconspicuous and melds into the styling of the bike but bare aluminium makes it look like the bike has been prepped for some off road duty. I think by the time my plate gets scuffed enough to warrant a complete strip of the coating I will have sold the bike off. Might buy a Himalayan next year. Or the 390 Adv if it comes out by then.

Originally Posted by theexperthand

Here is the picture of my sprocket. This is 19K when I clicked the picture. Even though the other parts looks fine, I am not much interested in getting the front sprocket alone changed since I believe it is better to change the set together.

Thank you - I will certainly check about the chain set more before I change. Old D200s used to come with 4 stem rear sprockets and then they changed it to 6 stem sprockets. My bike is a 6 stem model, so not sure if 43T is avilable in my configuration, but still worth checking

--Anoop

Yes, that's how the sprocket looks after extensive use. I am usually very hard on the throttle what with shifting at 10k and then there is the engine braking I do. It is indeed better to change the whole set in one go but changing the front sprocket alone can also be a good choice if your chain hasn't stretched to its limit. No matter the condition of the sprockets, if the chain adjustment is at its maximum (axle at farthest back) setting, replace the whole set.

I have had sprocket teeth chip off on our Bullet but mostly on the rear sprocket, anywhere from 14 to 20+ out of 40, and the only trouble I faced was noise. On my 220 I have had almost half of the teeth shear off when I didn't maintain the chain and keep the tension at the recommended setting. Usually it is every second tooth that breaks. Your sprocket shows proper maintenance of the chain and that's why the wear is uniform and normal.

Oh, I forgot that the newer models have the 6 lug hub centre like in the 390. I wonder if that's why the chain set is now expensive. Since mine is a 2012, the rear sprocket fits on the 220 and I have tried it. Also, only the 2012 came with the 43T sets.

[theexperthand]

Originally Posted by Darth Sid

Now I wish mine was uncoated aluminium too! Black looks very inconspicuous and melds into the styling of the bike but bare aluminium makes it look like the bike has been prepped for some off road duty. I think by the time my plate gets scuffed enough to warrant a complete strip of the coating I will have sold the bike off. Might buy a Himalayan next year. Or the 390 Adv if it comes out by then.

Now that you have told this, I think it would have complimented the stripped off look of Lisbeth also.

Yes, that's how the sprocket looks after extensive use. I am usually very hard on the throttle what with shifting at 10k and then there is the engine braking I do.
...
Since mine is a 2012, the rear sprocket fits on the 220 and I have tried it. Also, only the 2012 came with the 43T sets.

Since my daily route have a healthy dose of curves and some empty stretches, I often readlines the bike and uses engine breaking, but I lube the chain on every alternate weekend, and make sure that the chain is not loose.

I think the 6 stem configuration might be the cause of the hefty price tag - but will get it confirmed again.

--Anoop

[Darth Sid]

Originally Posted by theexperthand

Now that you have told this, I think it would have complimented the stripped off look of Lisbeth also.


I think the 6 stem configuration might be the cause of the hefty price tag - but will get it confirmed again.

--Anoop

Indeed. I have rarely seen any bike (or a picture of it) with a bash plate that is not silver.

Let us know what you find out about the chain set. If too expensive, the Rolon direct product will be a good choice.

I started my bike today after it sat unused for the whole weekend. As soon as I turned on the ignition I saw the low battery warning again. I might ride to Chandigarh this weekend. If I do, I will find out the price of the Exide Xplore XLTZ9 there and buy one if cheap. SVC told me over the phone their batteries carry only one year warranty cover.

Still haven't been able to go to the SVC to get my ECU diagnosed.

[theexperthand]

Few pictures from couple or recent rides:

















--Anoop

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by theexperthand

Few pictures from couple or recent rides

Nice pics bud!

Q) You obviously like to go off the beaten path. You don't miss or ever feel the need for more dirt worthy tires or do Michelins really suffice?

[theexperthand]

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

Nice pics bud!

Q) You obviously like to go off the beaten path. You don't miss or ever feel the need for more dirt worthy tires or do Michelins really suffice?

Thanks!

The Michelins are OK if the trail is hard packed, but falls short if there is mud or loose gravel. How I wish I could get Anakee 2 or Pirelli MT60 or something similar - or even the good old M45s.

Sadly, there is not much choice when it comes to dual sport tyes and though I am reluctant to resort to running tubed tyres, I may just do that when it is time to go for next set, to get better grip off the road.

--Anoop

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by theexperthand

Sadly, there is not much choice when it comes to dual sport tyes and though I am reluctant to resort to running tubed tyres, I may just do that when it is time to go for next set, to get better grip off the road.

--Anoop

Thanks for the feedback Anoop!

Ya, there is a dearth of choices, especially the front 17 incher

At least in Delhi, we have some pretty decent choice of rubber for the rear - Vee Rubber VRM 163 in 130/80/17 and 140/80/17

Review - http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...t-tire.671097/

Price - 3k fitted . Excellent user reviews. Great on and off road - a true Dual Sport rubber

For the front, we have the Sirac 100/90/17 or the Ralco Speed Blaster 110/80/17. Both are actually rear tyres that probably should be flipped around when running in the front. Good part - both are tubeless and cost well under 2k fitted. But I have heard mixed reviews on both when it comes to street use, especially w.r.t. hard braking

There are many in my group that are working on a cost effective solution of fitting an Enfield's 19 incher up front. Like this - http://www.theautomotiveindia.com/fo...m-rallying.jpg

Something should definitely be materializing for some of the folks by the end of this month. Cant wait to try their set up and if it feels OK, I will definitely take a plunge and keep a set of super sticky Metz / Pirelli for track duties or a "spirited" twisty ride

[theexperthand]

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

Thanks for the feedback Anoop!

Ya, there is a dearth of choices, especially the front 17 incher

At least in Delhi, we have some pretty decent choice of rubber for the rear - Vee Rubber VRM 163 in 130/80/17 and 140/80/17

Review - http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...t-tire.671097/

Price - 3k fitted . Excellent user reviews. Great on and off road - a true Dual Sport rubber

I want, I want, I want. Wow, never knew about this - next time, I am definitely getting this.

For the front, we have the Sirac 100/90/17 or the Ralco Speed Blaster 110/80/17. Both are actually rear tyres that probably should be flipped around when running in the front. Good part - both are tubeless and cost well under 2k fitted. But I have heard mixed reviews on both when it comes to street use, especially w.r.t. hard braking

I have the Sirac on my Unicorn and it is just ok-ok. Not even a patch on M45. Ralco seems interesting. I will any day prefer dual sport tyres for my daily ride since I pass few patches every day where these will be extremely useful.

But have to say that the current set shines when it comes to hard breaking and wet riding on tarmac - they blow the OEM MRFs out of the water completely.

There are many in my group that are working on a cost effective solution of fitting an Enfield's 19 incher up front. Like this - http://www.theautomotiveindia.com/fo...m-rallying.jpg

Something should definitely be materializing for some of the folks by the end of this month. Cant wait to try their set up and if it feels OK, I will definitely take a plunge and keep a set of super sticky Metz / Pirelli for track duties or a "spirited" twisty ride

While this seems like a good idea, I do not want to compromise and fit a tubed solution. The ease of fixing punctures on a tubeless is unmatched and I really don't want to go back to tubed tyres

--Anoop

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

Thanks for the feedback Anoop!

Ya, there is a dearth of choices, especially the front 17 incher

At least in Delhi, we have some pretty decent choice of rubber for the rear - Vee Rubber VRM 163 in 130/80/17 and 140/80/17

Review - http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...t-tire.671097/

Price - 3k fitted . Excellent user reviews. Great on and off road - a true Dual Sport rubber

Where the heck are Vee Rubber's available in Bangalore?!?! 3k fitted is insane value!

Any help please?

[theexperthand]

A long pending update - at last, I got the chain and sprocket kit replaced at Whitefield SVC. At 20K km, I believe I got a fair life out of my chain and sprocket.

D200 have two different set of chain and sprocket - the older models comes with a 4 stem design and is substantially cheaper. The later models uses a 6 stem design similar to D390 and is only few hundreds cheaper than the D390 set.

The total cost was around 3 - 3.2K, including the labor. For D390, it will be around 300-400rs extra.

The worn out front sprocket


Look how beautiful the tooth are curved - reminds me of Sun


The front sprocket


The six stemmed rear sprocket


The chain


The tooth and links count


--Anoop

[ArizonaJim]

theexperthand
Don't take this personally because you are not alone but, that first picture shows a chain that has been totally neglected.

Chains, like all moving metal parts on a motorcycle require lubrication and based on the rusty appearance that chain has not received any for a very long time.

Without the proper lubrication, the links in the chain will wear internally causing the distance between the rollers to increase.
When this happens, the sprockets teeth become bent, like the ones you have shown in the first two photos.
As the sprocket teeth become bent they cause further damage to the chain.

All of this could have been avoided if the sideplates and rollers had been oiled.

Almost any kind of petroleum motor oil can be used for this but if common oil is used it will be slung/thrown off of the chain making a mess.
IMO, that mess is a small price to pay as it is fairly easy to clean off.
IMO, a little cleaning costs a lot less than replacing a worn and damaged chain and sprocket.

There are lubricants made specifically for lubricating motorcycle chains.
The better ones come in an aerosol can so they can be sprayed on the chain easily.

These chain lubes are almost waterlike so they quickly penetrate down inside the chain to the areas that need lubrication. After a short period of time (1/2 hour or so) the "carrier" that makes them thin evaporates leaving a thick, tough oil film that does't fly off of the chain when the motorcycle is being ridden.

With oiling comes the problem of cleaning the chain as oil will collect dust.
Some people are almost obsessed with having a clean chain and become upset when even the slightest amount of dirt becomes stuck to the chain.
While this is perhaps a worthy attitude, IMO, it is unnecessary.

The dirt/dust that collects on the chain in the period between lubricating it won't cause much if any wear or damage to the chain or the sprockets.
The worst thing about mud is the water it contains.
Even the water won't harm the chain if it has been properly lubricated. The oil will form a protective barrier to keep it away from the steel where it can cause rust.

Again, in my opinion, wiping the dust/dirt/mud off using an old rag with some kerosene or diesel fuel will suffice.
Spraying the chain with high pressure water won't suffice. The high pressure will cause the water to wash off the lubricant. It even can wash out the oil between the sideplates and the rollers. This is the last thing one would want to do, so, if your mechanic has used a pressure washer on your chain, by all means, apply more lubricant as soon as possible.

If the motorcycle is being ridden in a dry, low dust area, the distances between lubricating the chain should be about 500-600 km.
If the motorcycle is being ridden in dusty, wet, muddy areas the distance between lubeing should be around 250-300 km.

WARNING
Lubricating a chain is an easy thing to do however, it must always be done with the engine turned off.
NEVER have the engine running and the transmission in gear while working on a chain.
A few people have mistakenly thought that having the engine idle with the transmission in gear would serve as a neat way to make the chain move while they were applying the lube.
Several of these people are now missing their fingers.
It is all too easy to get a finger or the rag they are holding caught in the chain where they can be pulled into the sprocket.
If that happens, the chain and sprocket will cut the finger(s) off as easily as a knife cuts butter.