[The Great]

Originally Posted by wanderernomad

The bullet starts well and then idles perfectly, however, the moment I turn the accelerator up, it sort of dies out but the moment I let go, it settles back to a nice idle.

Do check for any water accumulation in the fuel tank too.
I had faced a similar situation in my CI 350 and turned out that there was water in tank.

[Williams_f1]

Hi,

I had similar issues with my recently bought used AVL 500, my air intake hose was torn, leading to the slide getting damaged as dirt got sucked in. The bike during cold starts would switch off again and again, idle rpm was varying, the engine was missing and also there was a loss of power, though it got better once the engine warmed up.

My mech suggested I should change the carb as the issue can't be fixed. He suggested I should go in for a UCE 500 carb (UCD 33), costing around 5.5k. I started my own research, with help of Tbhp member Eric (Ringoism) and the internet I was able to verify that AVL 500 has a BS29 carb which is also used on the UCE 350s and costs around 2.6k.

The AVL 350 uses a BS26 carb.

I bought mine yesterday, initially the shop owner offered me a BS26 carb which costs around 4.6k, later upon checking the catalogue and me inisisting, the shop owner handed me the BS29 carb, with UCAL packaging
and costed me 2.3k along with a six month warranty.

On reading international forums, I also came to know about the made in Italy - Dellorto carb, suppose to be good upgrade for the AVL 350, there are some vendors selling them, like this one: http://www.royalenfieldzone.com/assorted_components.asp
I enquired but it is only for the AVL 350 and currently out of stock also could be pricey.

Hope this helps.

[wanderernomad]

Its more than 15 years bro. But the compression is ok as I have been riding it through the hills as well with load. And there is no misfire. Most probably it is a stuck slide which I will confirm this weekend once I have opened the Carb.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by wanderernomad

Its more than 15 years bro. But the compression is ok as I have been riding it through the hills as well with load. And there is no misfire. Most probably it is a stuck slide which I will confirm this weekend once I have opened the Carb.

You could push the manifold over to one side and have a look at the slide now. Lift and drop the slide a couple of times with your finger to see if all is well.





Don't use a screwdriver as I'd used back then, I was young and still had a bit of the stupid streak left in me.

Regards,
A.P.

[ssingri]

It has happened to me many times on my 2004 tbird the prime suspect is water in the float bowl. Water sits at the bottom so the main jet is in water the idle jet gets good fuel so it runs on idle and low throttle. Just use the drain bolt to drain the carb once and it should work fine after that. It happened to me 2 days ago and I fixed it at the side of the road using the tool kit screwdriver. Hope it works for you.

[wanderernomad]

Well opened the carb and cleaned it properly. Also I was surprised to see that my Carb is different than most of the carbs I ahve seen in the youtube videos. Anyway, the bullet is running just fine after the 15 mins clean up. The pictures.

[Williams_f1]

Originally Posted by wanderernomad

Well opened the carb and cleaned it properly. Also I was surprised to see that my Carb is different than most of the carbs I ahve seen in the Youtube videos. Anyway, the bullet is running just fine after the 15 mins clean up. The pictures.

Hi, maybe you have the Dellorto Carb on your bike, the first Machismo 350's came with this carb before they changed over to the BS26. These are suppose to be really good carbs, all this info is from international forums.


thanks,

[StallionAmit]

Hi RE experts , need suggestion, I just changed the battery for my RE classic 350, as soon as I switch on the lights, the fuse breaks, I have got 3 damaged fuses in a interval of 10 mins, any suggestions what could be the reason ?

[MohanBabu.P]

I am using Thunderbird which was bought on Mar 2017. From the day1 there is start up issue very frequently as follows:
1. Kick rod start will not work at all especially in the morning.
2. If we start with choke and leave accelerator for few seconds engine will stop. Ideally Engine should not stop in neutral. I compared with my Yamaha FZ as engine will never stop in that bike

I complained about this service centers every time when I gave it for servicing. But never got full resolution. They say they changed air filter, batter check done etc., but it is not solved yet.

Is it happening for all Thunderbird bikes? If so what is best solution to fix this issues?

Thanks.
Mohan

[Bottom Torque]

It's normal for Thunderbird and most of the Royal Enfields especially in the morning. I am using Thunderbird (2015) model and daily morning when I take it out for office commute, I had to use the choke and allow the engine to run for a few minutes to warm up. The same happens in the evening when I go back home. I'll allow the engine to run with choke on for a few mins. My concern is to be safe because riding a few yards and engine knock off will upset me more.

Comparing RE with Japanese bikes like FZ will only disappoint because Royal Enfield and Yamaha are very different when it comes to engineering and technology. So, its obvious that Thunderbird won't behave like FZ.

To conclude, your Thunderbird's behavior is normal.

[SS80]

Originally Posted by StallionAmit

Hi RE experts , need suggestion, I just changed the battery for my RE classic 350, as soon as I switch on the lights, the fuse breaks, I have got 3 damaged fuses in a interval of 10 mins, any suggestions what could be the reason ?

I faced the exact same issue and found that the problem was with the tail light wiring was worn at one point and was touching the metal mudguard. Do this simple exercise, disconnect the black coupler near battery that connects everything in the rear and insert new fuse then check, if issue is fixed, all you have to do is, remove the whole wiring for tail light (takes less than 5mins and very easy) and find the place where insulation is worn out and tape it.

My issue:
I have a Electra 2012 and it's been 6000kms since I bought it, previous owner has used it for 55000kms.

I am facing this very annoying and intermittent issue, this happens only when I am on high speeds.
1. Bike starts without issue after it idles for a minute, when I switch into gear and try to move forward, the bike stalls as soon as throttle is opened.
2. At 60 - 70kmph, the bike behaves like there is no fuel and then when you let the throttle down and raise again it runs fine.
3. The ammeter needle stays fine (right in the center) through out the ride with no other issues.
4. I already drained the carb bowl and checked, dint help to fix the issue.

Any advise on this please.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by SS80

Any advise on this please.

Sound like you have an issue with the vacuum piston.

In CV Carburetors the slide is operated by pressure differences, if the slide is stuck or not moving freely what happens is you get a lean state when the throttle is opened.

This explanation makes sense since after starting when you open throttle your AFR becomes lean and the motor dies, also makes sense that while riding you loose power to only regain it when you close and open throttle.

Remove the insulator on the Air Box side and lift the slide using a finger and then let it drop, it should be coming down with resistance, also blow compressed air into the top ports, this should cause the slide to lift, if not then you'd need to change the vacuum piston, at times the carburetors body would've gone through enough wear and tear that even with a new vacuum piston it'd not maintain a seal, in which case you'd need to change the carburetor.

If at all changing carburetors do compare prices with the BS29 available for the P180 as RE tends to charge a premium for its spares. I'd recently bought a BS29 for a friend and it cost about 2.5k. You can swap jets if required.

Now all this is provided that you've already inspected for an air leak, you do it using WD40 on a hot motor or when the motor is hot you could try pulling the Choke to get an idea of state of tune.

[SS80]

Thanks Ashwin for the detailed reply. I will surely work on the carb first before doing anything else.

Need your inputs on 2 other thoughts:

1.As you already know the Electra comes with 3.50x19 at rear, the corners are box shaped and I just cannot enter or exit any corner with even mild tilting, especially when it rains.

I thought of replacing the rear wheel (rim and tyre) from classic 350 (100/90R18), perhaps a used one from olx.

Is this a easy swap? Since I am 5.5ft tall, the reduced saddle height would help me riding in traffic too.

2. The spark plugs seem to be stuck in their position and I am unable to remove them to clean or replace, I just have the stock plug removal tool from the OEM kit. Is it okay to use wd40 to losen it?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by SS80

1.As you already know the Electra comes with 3.50x19 at rear, the corners are box shaped and I just cannot enter or exit any corner with even mild tilting, especially when it rains.

I thought of replacing the rear wheel (rim and tyre) from classic 350 (100/90R18), perhaps a used one from olx.

Is this a easy swap? Since I am 5.5ft tall, the reduced saddle height would help me riding in traffic too.

I do not own the said motorcycle, in fact I've not owned any RE to date.

But going by common logic you need to procure new Rim and Spokes and get the rear wheel rebuilt. Which would cost you under 2k, a decent tyre would again set you back by another 2k. So a total 4k. Now lets estimate cost of rebuild at 500/- so total estimate comes to 4.5k.

The reason I'm mentioning costs of brand new parts is cause this are things you shouldn't buy used for safety reasons alone.

Now coming to size, why 18? If you have the patience then do have a go at 17 for both front and rear. A 2.15 Inch Rim from the Impulse(Rear) costs 750/piece(Yes, its painted but cheaper than Chrome), installing them at both ends would set you back by 1.5k for rims. Finding matching spokes would be a headache but doable nonetheless and would set you back by less than 1k for both ends. Labour for rebuilding both rims would be under 1k. A pair of sticky tyres comes to around 5k.

Only tyres are expensive and you could wait till your current pair requires a replacement. With 17inch you get a lot more options, even soft compounds which though are pricey is worth every penny spent when it comes to safety.

Or if you're sticking to 18 then options are still limited but you could time the change to nearing a tyre replacement or Rim Truing or both so as to cut down on expenses.

Do give it some thought.

2. The spark plugs seem to be stuck in their position and I am unable to remove them to clean or replace, I just have the stock plug removal tool from the OEM kit. Is it okay to use wd40 to losen it?

Yes it is best to use penetrative oils, feel free to use liberally and let it set overnight before attempting removal. You absolutely do not want to strip those threads.

An even mix of Acetone and ATF is proven to work better than WD40.

Never clean a Plug, Simply Replace.

I've only used the OE Tool to date, though a friend and fellow enthusiast has once used a SP Socket in an emergency situation on my motorcycle. The OE tool would get the job done, but the quality of the one that comes with RE is questionable, I've seen them rust quite effortlessly.

While screwing in the new plug make sure to use finger force only, once seated(by hand) use the tool and turn till the crush washer is compressed. When limiting to finger force it is impossible to mess the threads and overtighten it as seen in your current case.

Hope that helps.

[meetarin]

Hello Enfield gurus! Some of you may have read about my bike stalling amidst nowhere due to an air lock few days back. It was rectified by RSA guys but now I’ve a different issue. The bike starts nicely and idles nicely too but when it moves, I get a stuttering feeling as if the fuel is running it. It doesn’t stall though. I’ve taken it to a local trusted mechanic. To start with, he checked and replaced the spark plugs and air filter. He’s kind of sure now that it’s the CDI unit or the pickup coil which is causing the issue. My bike is a 2019 BS4 Thunderbird 350x model. Is it recommended to change the CDI unit? Does it fault so soon? What other potential problems could be happening? Looking forward to hear from the experts.