[white-rabbit]

Yes.This information is there in RE official website.It worked for me. I pressed select+set for 2-3 sec and switched on ignition,and held the buttons for another 2-3 sec.It vanished.

Is there any riders from mysore here?

[rbppt]

Hello.

So I have a Bullet Electra 5S (2009). A few days ago, when I was on my Bull, it putt-putted and stopped, like it was low on petrol - only that it wasn't. Later I realized that the horn was barely audible (it only let out a meek sound) and whenever I turned on the headlights, the bike just stopped. I figured that the battery must have drained out majorly. Got it checked and found out that the battery levels had reduced to just 7V! So I got it recharged, hooked a multimeter to the terminals and now it reads approx 13V without load (ignition on of course) and when I turn the headlight on, it drops to 12.8V. That means the battery's charged properly and ain't dead. PROBLEM : Since the original problem originated out of the battery being discharged severely, I guessed recharging the battery should do the trick. But the Bull won't start. I have an ES model, but have removed the ES from the Bull. The bike will neither kickstart nor push start. No issues with spark plug, for I had a new one fit only a few days before. Removed the plug cap to check signs of current - none. As I kicked and kicked, I saw absolutely NO current at the end of the cable. Can someone help me troubleshoot the problem? I'm a little weak when it comes to electricals.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by rbppt

Hello.

So I have a Bullet Electra 5S (2009). A few days ago, when I was on my Bull, it putt-putted and stopped, like it was low on petrol - only that it wasn't. Later I realized that the horn was barely audible (it only let out a meek sound) and whenever I turned on the headlights, the bike just stopped. I figured that the battery must have drained out majorly. Got it checked and found out that the battery levels had reduced to just 7V! So I got it recharged, hooked a multimeter to the terminals and now it reads approx 13V without load (ignition on of course) and when I turn the headlight on, it drops to 12.8V. That means the battery's charged properly and ain't dead. PROBLEM : Since the original problem originated out of the battery being discharged severely, I guessed recharging the battery should do the trick. But the Bull won't start. I have an ES model, but have removed the ES from the Bull. The bike will neither kickstart nor push start. No issues with spark plug, for I had a new one fit only a few days before. Removed the plug cap to check signs of current - none. As I kicked and kicked, I saw absolutely NO current at the end of the cable. Can someone help me troubleshoot the problem? I'm a little weak when it comes to electricals.

Probably the battery although re-charged does not have enough juice to crank the engine.
Have you changed the battery since the bike was purchased?

My suggestion would be to swap the battery with a good one and check first .

[bj96]

Originally Posted by rbppt

... I kicked and kicked, I saw absolutely NO current at the end of the cable...

Most likely there is problem in wiring/sparkplug lead. In my case, the ignition switch cable was cut near the steering (under petrol tank) due to constant rubbing against the frame. After I joined and taped it things are fine, 2+ years no issues.

After battery was charged, do you see the ignition (green) light come up when you switch on the key? In my case it was not coming on ( my gear neutral switch was OK).

-BJ

[rbppt]

tharian - I'll check that. But doesn't the over-12V reading indicate that the battery's charged properly and holds enough juice to crank the engine? Can you explain a bit to me? Like I said, I'm a noob in electricals. But I'll try starting it with a different battery. Hope it's that simple (although I would have to buy a new battery, right?).

bj96 - I'm a little doubtful it's a cable issue, for the bike ran properly before showing signs of low battery charge a few days ago. Although, there's no harm in checking it. Superficial checks first. And I've removed the Electra casquette. My HL sits on a TB tree. No green light. Is there another way of checking if the ignition on/off points work?

[vrajaram]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Cross posting my query at another thread,

O-chain is the norm these days and the rubber ring aids in improved lubrication, preventing dirt from entering the chain links. Go for it, also remember to buy a lubricant and apply every 500-800 kms or so (whenever chain is dry)

[commonman]

Currently I am going through a peculiar problem. Mine is a 350 CC classic ES 2011 bullet.
ES is not working when the handle is straight. I have to turn the handle to left side,if the ES needs to work.This all started after the battery and ignition coil was replaced. The mechanic is unable to identify the problem .He is saying the entire wiring needs to be redone.Everything else is wonderful.Can anyone help ?

[bj96]

Originally Posted by rbppt

.. No green light...

Tell-tale sign of a ignition circuit problem if the bulb is OK and your gear neutral switch was working alright before. Remove the petrol tank and carefully check all connectors, cables going to the battery and headlight fairing.

-BJ

[ArizonaJim]

commonman

It is highly unlikely the entire wiring harness needs to be replaced or redone.

The most likely cause is one of the wires that connects the starter button to the starter solenoid was accidentally unplugged while the mechanic was replacing the ignition coil.

When I say unplugged I am not saying it is now totally loose with the ends dangling out in space. The wires would look like they are still connected but the actual metal wiring connectors are not touching each other when the handlebars are pointed straight ahead or turned to the right.
When you turn the handlebars to the left, it moves the wiring harness causing the loose ends of the metal connectors to make contact and suddenly, your starter is working fine.

To find the source of this problem you or your mechanic must remove the headlight from the casquette. Inside, you will find a maze of wires coming out of the main wiring harness.
These wires may be partially covered by a large rubber cover. Fold the cover back on itself to expose all of the wiring connections.

Look for a blue wire with white stripes and follow it to where it plugs into another blue/white wire. Try unplugging it. It will most likely unplug without using any strength at all. In any case, plug the ends firmly together so that they fully engage one another.

For those interested, the blue/white wire connects the starter button switch to the starter solenoid to supply the electrical power to activate it.

While your in the area, try unplugging all of the electrical wiring connectors. They should be tight but if you find any other connectors that unplug easily, plug them firmly into each other to prevent other electrical circuits from failing.

[rbppt]

Alright. I was tightening one of the upper bolts of the oil pipe (the one that clings on to the engine) when the bolt broke. I have a 2009 make Electra 5S (CI engine). The bolt that just died had three holes. And when I went inquiring about, I was unable to find one that fits the bill. Everyone gave me a bolt with two holes, saying that this is what fits. (I went to the Enfield showroom + 4 more spare parts shops) I showed them the remains of the three-holed bolt and all they could tell me was that this got discontinued a few years ago. They assured me that the one with two holes also fits on Electras with CI engines. Well, sure. But clearly my CI engine specifically had three-holed bolts holding the oil pipe in place. (Also, the one I bought is longer than the old one by almost 5mm) I bought it nonetheless. Came home and tried fitting it on. It goes in nicely till halfway, but after that it gets a little tight to twist it in. I tried putting it in as much as I thought it safe (I didn't want to damage any inner parts) to do so and it looked like a snug fit to an extent. Kickstarted the engine, but as was expected, the oil started oozing out.

I can't believe I'm immobile because of a small bolt. Should I should try tightening it more if this is what fits CI engines? It feels ridiculous to even realize that it's economically messed up to order a part such as this online.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by rbppt

Alright.

I can't believe I'm immobile because of a small bolt. Should I should try tightening it more if this is what fits CI engines? It feels ridiculous to even realize that it's economically messed up to order a part such as this online.

Please don't tighten it further. Post a picture of the bolt in question in this forum and I am sure a fellow bulleteer will be able to source it out for you.

regards adrian

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by rbppt

Alright. I was tightening one of the upper bolts of the oil pipe (the one that clings on to the engine) when the bolt broke. I have a 2009 make Electra 5S (CI engine). The bolt that just died had three holes. And when I went inquiring about, I was unable to find one that fits the bill. Everyone gave me a bolt with two holes, saying that this is what fits...

I am speculating but I bet the reason the design changed from a 3 hole bolt to a 2 hole bolt is the 3 hole bolt doesn't have enough material between the holes to take the torque that is needed to properly tighten it.

The lack of material between the holes will break and shear off too easily.

Now that I mention it, that is exactly what your problem is.

For those who have never investigated the fitting, it's called a banjo fitting (at least in the US) and it is used to connect the oil supply to the cylinder head. It supplies the oil to lubricate the rocker arms and valve stems.
We call it a "banjo fitting" because the body of it looks like the sound producing part of a banjo with the connecting tube looking somewhat like the neck.

Oil or fuel comes into the hollow body thru a tube. From there it travels around the center bolt that holds it in place and finds the holes that are drilled thru the sides of the bolt. The oil/fuel then travels thru a hole that runs down the center of the bolt and goes to where it's needed.

Getting back to the design, if the holes thru the side of the bolt are equal to or greater in area to the outlet hole that runs down thru the center of the bolt there is no need for additional holes.

Simply put, the 2 holes in the newer banjo bolts makes it stronger than the old 3 hole bolt and I have no doubts that it will be more than adequate at supplying enough oil to the rocker arms and valve stems.

It is highly recommended that when these banjo bolts and fittings are removed or loosened and retightened that the two copper washers (one on each side of the banjo body) are replaced. These washers provide the seals to keep the fluid from leaking.

If this is not practical, apply a very thin coating of a oil resistant sealant to all of the interfacing surfaces of the washers. Also, it is imparitive that no dust or dirt is on any of the sealing surfaces.

The important things about these banjo fittings and bolt is the thread size must match the original part. The body diameter of the bolt must match the hole in the banjo's body. The thread length must match the original bolt.

If any of these features on a new bolt do not match the old bolt, do not attempt to install it.

Do not overtighten these bolts. Even the 2 hole bolt is relatively weak and the threads in the alloy cylinder head are short and fairly weak.
Overtightening the banjo bolt will either shear it off or strip the threads in the cylinder head.

Ride Safe.
Jim

[Rennjit]

@rbppt, just for info sake how does the hole sizes on the two bolts compare?
Its the open area that matters more than the no of holes. Usually a 2 hole banjo bolt would be ok. Place the bolts you have side by side, see where lies the difference & trim the thread length or add crush washers to the banjo end, making sure the banjo ring sits around the neck section. Like drain plugs, a snug fit is enough. Prefer aluminium crush washers as these are softer.

cheers..,

[Sujair]

I have two unrelated issues .
1) My Classic 350 has a big oil leak problem from the engine . I started noticing this after fitting an Indore silencer.Is there a relation between oil leak and silencers ? And how do I get this resolved ? Service centre guys are certainly not able to identify the cause.

2) After facing 3 punchers late in the night , I'm considering shifting to alloys and tubeless tires. How do I go about this modification ?

[rbppt]

Hello.

Here are some photos of the banjo bolt that I'm looking to replace. Still can't find it anywhere in Margao. I may make a trip to Panjim soon, but I'm doubtful. Can anyone source this for me?

Bullet Model : 2009, Electra 5S (gearshift on left side), CI engine.
Bolt : 3 holes.

And is there a more apt thread for this post?

Cheers!