[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by sharkbait

Regarding water in the tank, its highly unlikely that there's water leaking in. To avoid rust, I got my tank coated with an epoxy coating as well. But yeah, both sliders on both carbs have very similar white markings on them.

I had done epoxy coating in one of my Standard CI's fuel tank about 5 years back and the shoddy job done by the epoxy coating guy resulting in my carb getting jammed with epoxy gunk and wreaking a havoc with carb jets and internals. It was so bad that my carb started leaking due to jammed float and throttle valve(also known as slider). I got the carb completely overhauled and serviced and got the fuel tank stripped off the epoxy coating and got it redone from elsewhere. This time I categorically asked for the epoxy coating to be dried inside the fuel tank for at least 48 hours. Result was as I expected and the bike still runs well without any issues after 5 years.

Regarding it running too lean, is there anyway a novice like me can check to figure what tuning my mechanic has set it to? Dont know if there's a way to tell, which is why I wanted that second opinion from another mechanic.

You can remove the spark plug to see if the tips have become white. If yes then it is a sign your motorcycle is running lean. As it is RE AVL engines run lean which is why they are called LB(Lean Burn) making it run even leaner will result in engine overheating and spark plug tip turning white. I have sent you an email of how my carb issues were taken care of by that mech. Do show him the bike once and see what he has to say.

[VM1]

Need some help with an electrical issue in my TB350 2007 electric start model. The bull runs fine but when the headlight or blinkers are turned on, the RPM needle dips. With blinkers on, the RPM needle keeps going up and down, and with headlight on it falls to 0, while the motorcycle keeps running. However, the horn becomes very weak and the engine dies if the bike is not moving, say at a traffic signal. Hence riding at night is a challenge now.

I am suspecting some wire grounding. What and where do I look for?

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by VM1

I am suspecting some wire grounding. What and where do I look for?

Check the alternator output. Replacement might be required.

[nityamishra14]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

"The bike is working on Electric Start but not always. "

This is not specific enough.
It could mean the starter motor doesn't run at all.
The starter motor runs but the engine does not crank.
The starter motor runs and the engine cranks but the engine doesn't start.

Most likely it is failing to fire while the motor is cranking it. If this is the case I would suspect the spark plug cap (connector) as the cause.

" I am planning to change the spark plug wires but I am not sure how are they connected (haven't been able to remove the Fuel Tank Yet) . Is there a connector which splits a single wire into two spark plug wires(high tension wires)."

I am not in India and I haven't seen how the dual spark system is set up.
There could be two ignition coils, one for each spark plug or, there could be one ignition coil with a high tension wire for each spark plug.

These high tension wires could screw into the ignition coil allowing you to just replace the wires or, they could be permanently bonded into the coil(s).
If they are a permanent part of the coil, you will need to replace the coil to replace the wires. (Perhaps someone familiar with the RE Dual Spark can enlighten both of us?)

The ignition coil is a transformer that changes the 12 volts from the battery or alternator to over 25,000 volts so it can create the spark at the spark plug.
It may be round or rectangular. One (or more) of the high tension wires connected to the spark plug(s) will go directly to it.
The ignition coil is usually located under the fuel tank.


"Are there any other electrical components in the line which is used for Ignition."

There are several other things that control the ignition on the UCE engine.
There is a sensor that determines the position of the crankshaft.
A sensor that determines the position of the throttle
The computer that determines the correct time for the spark to occur and then causes the ignition coil to "fire".
The wiring harness, ignition switch, kill switch, fuses....

"Is there any kind of document available for complete electrical wiring and components in the New Electra UCE. "

There are a number of electrical wiring diagrams available on the internet.
Just be sure the one you use is for a UCE. Wiring for the older Iron Barrel and AVL is different.

These wiring diagrams are not always correct and they often don't show some of the electrical components that may be on your motorcycle at all.

Use them as a general guideline but not as gospel.

Hi ArizonaJim ..

Last few weeks , i have done everything I could do to rectify the Electric start Issue ... but still no luck ...

I have changed both the Ignition coils, connecting wire to spark plugs, connectors for spark plugs and Spark Plugs also.
Yesterday I got a new Battery also.

the issue still remains intact. The bike Cranks , but it does not starts when starting through Electric Start. Otherwise the bike is one Kick Start.

To Be specific - The electric Start Runs, The Engine Cranks but the engine does not starts.

Sometimes it does starts but still not able to find out the core issue with the electric start.

Any leads will be very helpful. Should I try changing the TCI unit , can it be a cause given that bike kick starts in a single kick.

[ArizonaJim]

nityamishra14

Sorry to hear the gremlin is still lurking around your motorcycle.

If the TCI was causing the problem, I think a similar problem would be noticed when kick starting it.

It still is possible that the extra battery power used by the starter motor is dropping the system voltage to a level that makes a marginal electrical connection stop conducting electricity.

I suggest that you carefully unplug the TCI or ECU as the case may be and examine all of the electrical connectors.

Even just a slight corrosion (discoloring) of the metal connectors can increase their resistance to the needed flow of power.

If you notice any areas of the connectors that are not clean/shiny bright, carefully scrape them with a sharp knife or, if it is available, use an electrical contact cleaner spray.

After you reconnect things, if you find that this solves the problem I suggest that you buy a small (tiny) tube of dielectric grease and once again, carefully remove the wiring connectors.
Apply a very light coating of the dielectric grease to the terminals to protect them from further corrosion and reassemble the wiring.

Hopefully, this fixes your problem for good.

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by nityamishra14

the issue still remains intact. The bike Cranks , but it does not starts when starting through Electric Start. Otherwise the bike is one Kick Start.

To Be specific - The electric Start Runs, The Engine Cranks but the engine does not starts.

Is it getting the full crank while doing a electric start? Do also get checked the mechanical teeths of both the starter and the engine pulley.

[Beast]

Hi

I am facing a peculiar problem with my electra 2013 model. The Bike runs very bad with engine doing missing for first 5-6 kms post that it becomes smooth. I have got the carburetor leaned twice but no improvement.

Please guide what could be the cause .

Regards
Beast

[farhadtarapore]

Here are 2 videos of my bike starting. Not sure if the engine is supposed to crank so much before it actually fires up. Both times, the low battery icon starts flashing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ztI0Y12hp4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOBwoR_RLqk

I have gotten the battery fully charged last month itself and have been riding about 25kms every day regardless of the rains. Not sure what else to do to get the bike to start up normally. Once the engine warms up, say at the signals, etc. it starts up fine. This happens in the mornings and in the evenings when the bike has been parked for more than 8 hours.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Here are 2 videos of my bike starting. Not sure if the engine is supposed to crank so much before it actually fires up. Both times, the low battery icon starts flashing.

I have gotten the battery fully charged last month itself and have been riding about 25kms every day regardless of the rains. Not sure what else to do to get the bike to start up normally. Once the engine warms up, say at the signals, etc. it starts up fine. This happens in the mornings and in the evenings when the bike has been parked for more than 8 hours.

farhad mate saw both the videos and it looks like a cold start issue. I couldn't see your right hand giving the throttle a mild twist. If not then do try this method, remember only a mild twist just a little nudging.

Also did you try using the manual bi-starter lever?

[farhadtarapore]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

farhad mate saw both the videos and it looks like a cold start issue. I couldn't see your right hand giving the throttle a mild twist. If not then do try this method, remember only a mild twist just a little nudging.

Also did you try using the manual bi-starter lever?

Hi Navin, I did twist the throttle a bit (sometimes when I twist it too much, it just refuses to start or sputters and dies)

BTW, forgive my ignorance, but what is bi-starter lever? Is it the kick lever? I have almost given up on kickstarting the bike due to knee pain. It hardly ever starts with kick start. If self-start keeps failing, then I kick it twice and then try self-start again. But it's a vicious cycle.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Hi Navin, I did twist the throttle a bit (sometimes when I twist it too much, it just refuses to start or sputters and dies)

Mate if you twist the throttle too much while simultaneously thumb starting, the bike will refuse the start. Stick to very mild twisting only.

BTW, forgive my ignorance, but what is bi-starter lever? Is it the kick lever? I have almost given up on kickstarting the bike due to knee pain. It hardly ever starts with kick start. If self-start keeps failing, then I kick it twice and then try self-start again. But it's a vicious cycle.

Mate the bi-starter lever is also called choke it is besides the left side switchgear. Refer to page.35 and 45 of your owner's manual. I am sure you are thumb starting the bike in neutral and pressing the clutch lever while doing so. Also the fact that your battery light is flashing shows your battery is not holding charge to provide enough juice to the starter motor.

About kick starting the UCE 500 motor, yes it is challenging as it is a high compression engine compared to CI engines. To put less strain on your knee you can stand on the kick lever while kick starting while your left leg is in the air, meaning put your entire weight on the kick lever while starting. It might look and feel a bit funny but that's how riders used to start their big displacement motorcycles(with high compression engines) back in the day. Other simple option is use your left leg for kicking.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

I have gotten the battery fully charged last month itself and have been riding about 25kms every day regardless of the rains. Not sure what else to do to get the bike to start up normally. Once the engine warms up, say at the signals, etc. it starts up fine. This happens in the mornings and in the evenings when the bike has been parked for more than 8 hours.

Before you crank the bike in the morning switch on the headlight and press the horn and check the sound. If the horn sounds weak, it indicates that the battery is not having its optimal juice. If the problem is happening even after you charged the battery, it would be a good time to check the alternator.

[ContessMan]

Hello everyone,
I own a 3 months old Bullet Std 500, and with approximately 2000 kms on the odo, it is quite sparingly used. Yesterday morning, as I started the motorcycle using the electric start, the engine gave a bursting sound, like a small firecracker. And though the engine had started, the cracker-like sound (a little less louder than the first blast) continued, in sync with the beat of the engine, and a burning smell started coming from within.

I immediately turned off the motorcycle and started it again, still with the electric start, but the same thing happened. I do remember giving a slight squeeze to the throttle as I started and suspected a blown sparkplug. But on calling the service centre, I was told that it is a carburettor problem.

I haven't started the motorcycle since then, not have I attempted opening up anything, me being a novice at such things. Any advice regarding this problem, and what caused it, would be highly appreciated. Thanks.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by ContessMan

Hello everyone,
I own a, would be highly appreciated. Thanks.

Most probably engine spitting back through the carburetor due to lean jetting / cold climate. Check whether the rubber boot from resonator box to carburetor intake is intact. If it is OK, then slightly increase the air fuel ratio by turning the fuel screw 1/4th of a turn clockwise.

[Rugged]

Hi Bullet Guru's,
Need your advice. My Bullet a 2013 STD UCE, stops suddenly while driving, it's been from 2 days.It starts after multiple kicks. Today morning i got the battery checked, refilled. Bike service was done in March :( daily usage is less than 10km as i stay very close to office, this issue is giving me sleepless nights :( hence trying to figure out a solution at this hour.