[JayPrashanth]

Originally Posted by akshay4587

You Can Also use Synthetic oils,for Cars Like Mobil1 or shell for LB 500 or Any CI RE,not for Twinsparks though.

A friend always used Mobil1 for his AVL 350 and The 4L Can used to Last him around 8K kms.

Yes, for UCEs, make sure that the synthetic oil you buy has JASO-MA rating(fit for use in wet clutch motorcycles). If it does, you can rest assured that your clutch won't slip.

This isn't necessary for CIs and AVLs as the clutch has it's own oil bath and the engine oil doesn't come in contact with the clutch.

Cheers,

Jay

[rajitn]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

Jay- I want to get Pirelli for front but any tyre with tread like Zapper FQ might take in nails hence I wanted to get the rear tyre with block design. I will have a look and see what I can get in Pirelli.

Essyouwe- It should work but hard to get the stuff in India. Dont want to go tubeless but can try the stuff in the tube. Any Idea if we can get that in India?

Rajit- Do you still have the older design chain cover? The new one is better but still hits the filter intake tube with pillion. Although if the chain cover is not aligned properly then it will hit the chain anyway. Do check if your chain is not loose.

Hey Randhawa,

Sorry for the late reply, but i'm still have issues with my chain. I checked the chain cover, its not the old one. Also, the chain is not loose.
My doubt is that it is hitting a little projection behind the silver medallion like thingy which is next to the front foot rest on the right! Could that be the case? If yes how can i rectify it?

[Randhawa]

@endofdays- I will recommend it for sure but I suggest you wait till 5 or 6K.

@bbkp-Jay has put it quite correctly about 300v oil change. If RE recommends an oil change at every 6k then surely 300v will last far better then the usual oil which is b Motul but not fully synthetic. I normally was getting the oil change at every 3k as I strongly felt the oil loosing it's charm between 500-1000k. As engine used to feel rough but I will see for how long does my engine feels smooth. I will be able to say for sure after I do at least 1K with this oil.

@S3va- Hey thanks for the appreciation budy. On here we all like to share a bit of experience and in return we all learn a lot.

[Randhawa]

@endofdays- OK here it is how I changed my oil this time;

Engine was a bit worm so did not needed to warm it. Removed the drain plug, let the oil drain until it stops. Crank the engine(short cranks) while bike leaning towards right(kick side). You will see more oil oozing out. Did it couple of times. Removed booth the filters and tilted the bike booth sides for any remaining oil. cleaned the sump filter and changed the oil filter along with rubber o ring. Closed the drain plug but kept it a bit loose. Before putting in the oil filter I had drenched it in 300v. Then added 300v about 300ml. Cranked the engine for few seconds then started her. Left it for around 30 seconds then switched it off. opened the drain plug slowly to get rid of any oil mix with previous oil and for any debris. Drained around 70ml, then repeated again twice after cranking it couple of times and adding around 200ml more. I did it in total three times until I did not see discoloration of 300v. I had drained in total 300 ml in this process. Then added 2L of 300v and started the engine, after a short ride switched off the engine. After 10 minutes, checked the oil level and added a bit more.

@Rajit- I think I know your problem now as I had the same but resolved it easily. Chain guard is attached by two support bars. The one near the engine is the culprit. It might have bent a bit if your rear tyre was removed and while putting it back it touched the chain guard and spoilt it's alignment. To resolve this you need to push the chain guard from the kick side with your hand a wee bit backwards or pull it backwards by putting your hand from gear lever side towards yourself. But if the chain is touching on the roof of the chain guard(less clearance from the top) then you will have to undo the bolt of the support bar ad raise it a bit and then tighten it. If you are not to much confident then take it to your RE workshop and explain them the issue alongside with the remedy and the should be able to sort it out in a min. Also check for the alignment of the chain guard from back to front, it should align with the chain.


An update on my RPM meter installation

I have hit a hurdle. After connecting the supply wires to the meter, I connected the signal wire to one of the three alternator wires. RPM meter did moved but instead of showing around 1k RPM, it was showing 3k but responded normally to the increase in rpm.

So any one out here who can help me with this or any one who can share their wiring diagram from TBTS or just tell me where does the yellow wire from the RPM meter gets it signal? Really need your help lads. I am too bad with ignition and stuff so cant think of the reason it's playing around with me or what wrong am I doing.

[VLOCT]

I've thoroughly enjoyed this thread. Brought out a lot of memories of my Bullet 350 in the early eighties. I loved that bike. It never rusted or let me down. Not once did it breakdown. And I rode the wheels of it.

Cheers.

[EssYouWe]

Originally Posted by EssYouWe

After draining all the oil out, add the flush and let it run for 5-10 minutes. Drain that as well and then add the synth oil.

Originally Posted by JayPrashanth

Nope, the engine oil stays.

Oops. Apologies for that screwup. Wonder why I wrote that! I got two engines flushed and shifted to synth this past month!

@Randhawa

I am busy making a digital speedo.

[madhkris]

Originally Posted by JayPrashanth

I've been running on 300V for about 10K on my LB500. No issues so far. I use the 15W50 while RE recommends 20W40. I do this as my LB500 isn't stock and also as I ride a bit hard. A few more LB500 friends have been running 15W50 300V for ages without issues.

Cheers,

Jay

Thanks Jay. I will wait until run-in is over and then probably go in for the 300v oil. I recently changed the stock silencer to a short bottle one. I have done 1200km till now.

[rajitn]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

@endofdays- OK here it is how I changed my oil this time;


@Rajit- I think I know your problem now as I had the same but resolved it easily. Chain guard is attached by two support bars. The one near the engine is the culprit. It might have bent a bit if your rear tyre was removed and while putting it back it touched the chain guard and spoilt it's alignment. To resolve this you need to push the chain guard from the kick side with your hand a wee bit backwards or pull it backwards by putting your hand from gear lever side towards yourself. But if the chain is touching on the roof of the chain guard(less clearance from the top) then you will have to undo the bolt of the support bar ad raise it a bit and then tighten it. If you are not to much confident then take it to your RE workshop and explain them the issue alongside with the remedy and the should be able to sort it out in a min. Also check for the alignment of the chain guard from back to front, it should align with the chain.

Hey Randhawa,

My problem's finally resolved. The guy at the service center just flipped the chain lock (u-clip kind of a thing) onto the other side of the chain and that has apparently fixed the issue. Im not sure what difference that made but it worked. I hope the flipping of the u-clip wont create another issue

[hollywoodhogan]

am told there is an enfield service camp in bangalore at the bannerghatta road workshop. any more info?

[Dhruva]

Originally Posted by hollywoodhogan

am told there is an enfield service camp in bangalore at the bannerghatta road workshop. any more info?

Also at HRS Rajajinagar till the 8th. Involves checking of 10 parts.
Is it happening in other service centers also?

[Randhawa]

@VLOCT- You are one lucky chap who has some lovely memories of a trouble free beast-y from yester years.

@Achint- Holy moly! I cant get the rpm meter working and you are on to a digi meter. I am all ears my friend

@Rajit- I cant make out how the flipping of the chain lock will help but in your case it did and it all that matters. Just check if he has not changed the direction of the lock. I think the open end of the lock is fitted at anti-clockwise direction.

@Dhruva-Service camp was held in Chandigarh for two days 26 and 27 April. Nothing checked but if anyone had a problem then they were attending to it.

@Rishi- I looked at the meter and I just find it a bit expensive and ugly. I like the one on my c5 in it's standard form. Plus there is to much of chopping of wires to do which I feel would be sacrilegious to my bebe.

[jingaboysr]

@EssYouWe @Randhawa,

There's a company in Bangalore who makes Digital speedos specially for bullets. It has RPM meter and temperature sensor built into it and is supposed to be a straight fit for all enfields (except TB). I'd once seen a demo, but decided not to go for it as they were ready to offer me only 3 months warranty.

May be your guys can have a look, the company is Radon, if I am not wrong.

-Rishi

[indian21r]

any of you considering getting disc brakes on the rear ? Also if it is possible, where can we get it done in Mumbai

I use headlamps fulltime which is draining battery at a rapid pace. I enquired with the dealers about it and they say there is no help for Bullet batteries from Exide as of now. I will make further enquires about the same.
I was stranded real bad yesterday evening for 20 minutes. So I finally learned how to kick start

My bike is facing two instability issues:
1. Speeds above 90 + it acts as if wind can sway the bike . Sometimes it feels like the bike had a puncture
2. Even a small amount of water on the road makes the bike feels slippery. This is at speeds as low as 50 with rider wt of 75 kgs and pillion 92kgs.

Malik the mechanic did some work on the swing arm sometime back. That rectified the problem of shaking when the roads are uneven but not the high speed instability. I will have a word with engineer from RE about the same this weekend in Kurla, Mumbai. I need a solution for this asap.

[Randhawa]

My Bebe broke the 130km/hr barrier and touched 137 I am so chuffed

Yes she has done me proud. Yeah I know before critics shatter my happy moment that speedo does not show the accurate reading. I am still happy.

On my previous speed runs, she maxed at 124 and did not oblige me further. That was on a 2km stretch where I usually do my testing. Today I went on a 300km trip where I had plenty of opportunities to push it to limits. Oh boy today was my day

Although I must say that vibrations topped the chart, rattle snake would have been put to shame speaking sarcastically.

Speed run stats;
Ambient temp around 40°C
Front tyre pressure 20 Psi
Rear 30Psi
Totally stock bike with OEM exhaust.
Straight road with no gradient
A bit windy
700km since last oil service, running fully synthetic Motul 300v.

I wish I could take a picture of the speedo at that time but I was getting free massage from top to bottom and kissing the mother Earth was the last thing in my mind.

Did I had any wobble? No- Bike was rock solid at 137 although I was not. Now you may ask how is that possible when almost all the C5 around our country are experiencing wobble and as I said in my first post the trick which works on my bike is a bit lower tyre pressure on rear.

May be it was the good road or the little trick which an RE mechanic did on my bike worked. Basically he placed a skinny spacer inside the rear hub to solve the wobble problem. Given some space on a longer stretch I bet my bike now will cross 140 on speedo as 137 is where I regained my sanity and didn't wanted to test my Ninja helmet for its safety features. By that time I regained consciousness in my almost num hands. I realized that I had managed to piss off a swift driver who was just not so pleased to be overtaken by a Bullet. I do not propagate rash driving or racing on public roads and wish to avoid any chances of road rage so I left him in peace and slowed down to the humble 80.

@Rahul-I was told by an RE engineer that alternator on a C5 chucks out 220w and it has enough juice to power couple more headlight so I am a bit confused as how can the battery on your bull unable to handle a headlight. I have heard of only one c5 with an rectifier problem but still get it checked properly by your local RE engineer. Its a three phase alternator and provides enough juice to your battery I believe. Do get your battery checked.

For your first issue I say it again, please get the rear chain adjuster cam on booth side for no of splines. It should be equal on booth the sides and also get the front checked for over tightened bearing. Try 20Psi at front and 27 or 30 in rear with single rider. Anyway if you have got all checked then wait with the rest of the C5 gang for an upgraded swing arm by RE for the said wobble issue. According to them, all previous owners of C5 will be given an offer to upgrade at additional cost. I am eagerly waiting for it.

Your second issue is because of the rear tyre. Its a hard rubber compound and not a good design for wet or slippery roads. I face the same issues as you do. I want to switch over to Pirelli but cant find one in my city. In mumbai, you will have plenty to choose from.

I really want to upsize the front skinny tyre as well along with the rear tyre on priority basis. I am thinking to try 19 on front as an experiment that is if my dealer agrees to loan me one from C3.

[gbanavar]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

My Bebe broke the 130km/hr barrier and touched 137 I am so chuffed

Although I must say that vibrations topped the chart, rattle snake would have been put to shame speaking sarcastically.

I wish I could take a picture of the speedo at that time but I was getting free massage from top to bottom and kissing the mother Earth was the last thing in my mind.

By that time I regained consciousness in my almost num hands.

Randhawa:

Congrats on achieving this top speed.. I know it is a great feeling to touch this speed on a small stretch!

great sense of humour though describing the "vibrations", I could not help sitting at my tube chuckling. If you like top end like I do, you should test a free flow hot tube that will help reduce vibrations and put you across the 140 mark. I know, I know, bottom end will suffer, but a 500s got plenty of torque across the spectrum!