[anand.shankar]

Guys,

has anyone here sucessfully bored out a UCE 500 to 535 ?

I know there were some discussions in the thread, could not find the final updates on the mod or whether the mod was done at all.

I'm in the middle of this process, have give the block for the lathe work, should get it back tomo. Its a lil late to ask, but are there any konwn issues with this change? Anything to watch out for ?

Along with the Rebore, also getting porting done, is there anything with fueling that needs to be changed ?

[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by anand.shankar

Guys,

has anyone here sucessfully bored out a UCE 500 to 535 ?

I know there were some discussions in the thread, could not find the final updates on the mod or whether the mod was done at all.

I'm in the middle of this process, have give the block for the lathe work, should get it back tomo. Its a lil late to ask, but are there any konwn issues with this change? Anything to watch out for ?

Along with the Rebore, also getting porting done, is there anything with fueling that needs to be changed ?

Throttle body, intake valves and if I remember correctly then injector also.

[anand.shankar]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

Throttle body, intake valves and if I remember correctly then injector also.

Thank you.

Can I run the stock setup on these for now without causing any harm ?

[Randhawa]

You might not get the benefit without the complete setup but one thing you need to keep an eye on is the spark plugs. You don't want to be running lean and plug colour can tell a lot.

[Malhi]

Hello everyone. Firstly, I hope everyone is safe and with their loved ones during these hard times of the Covid-19 pandemic.

I took my ds500 for a basic service at the authorized centre yesterday. Oil was replaced and so was the oil filter and I asked them to fix a leaking seal of the kick starter or the one above that. The job was done, I took the bike home but I noticed some oil seep out again.

The next morning, to be on absolutely sure, I took the bike to the workshop before starting my 400 km journey back home. I insisted that the seal has leaked again but they tried to convince me that it was in fact the chain lube seeping down from the front sprocket. Because I was in a rush I took their word and thought to myself that even if it's a little leak I should be able to reach home.

I was highly mistaken and majorly miscalculated the stupidity and unprofessionalism of the re people. The oil leak was major and leaked during the entire journey. Unfortunately for me I didn't take any stops in between and only after reaching home did I realise that the oil was empty. My heart shattered into pieces. I called up the service centre and blasted them but in vain. They were still convinced that it was the chain lube.

I have sent them the photos but I am not hopeful about anything.

Kindly, assist me on what my plan of action should be regarding sorting the mechanical issues and/or if any formal complaint can be filed with Royal Enfield.

Thanks.

Ps- the engine did not cease so I guess the seepage was gradual. I did experience an increase in vibration and loss in top end speed during the last 50 odd kms (stupid me thought it was because of continuous riding).

Here are the photos. The motorcycle was thoroughly washed after the service.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Malhi

Ps- the engine did not cease so I guess the seepage was gradual. I did experience an increase in vibration and loss in top end speed during the last 50 odd kms (stupid me thought it was because of continuous riding).

So let me get this straight, in spite of knowing you had a leak and in spite of having an oil level inspection window, you decided it was best to do a non-stop haul without inspecting oil level, which you kept going at even after observing resistance from the motor?

Anyhow, first line of action would be to resolve the leak in question, I'd suggest DIY'ing cause patience and dexterity goes a long way when it comes to replacing seals.

After that fill the engine will oil and do a compression test, or ride her around and then observe if there is any oil burning, by either inspecting spark plug or running a finger round the inside of the exhaust tip, you'll know what youre looking for.

If all is well, then keep riding and make sure to observe the next drain to see if anything thats not supposed to fall out has come loose, if all well then consider yourself blessed.

Also make it a habit to inspect oil level inspection window whenever you take a break on an extended ride and it goes without saying to check it first thing in the morning before riding.

Life isnt ideal, but you really don't want to cause self harm and make it worse.

Cheers,
A.P.

[ArizonaJim]

Malhi
I have several thoughts about this oil leak. Based on the photos, I don't see enough evidence of enough oil on the engine, frame, centerstand or silencer to be convinced that your engine was harmed.

You didn't say that you heard a massive clattering sound during the later stages of your trip and this tells me that your engine was not starved for oil. You see, these UCE engines use hydraulic valve lifters. If the oil pressure drops down to dangerous levels, the lifters will not remain pumped up. If this happens, your valve rocker arms will sound like someone is inside the engine with a hammer, pounding rapidly at anything in sight. There is no way you could not have heard the racket.

The picture of the oil level window which shows no oil makes me wonder, did you rest the motorcycle on the side stand and then sit it back upright on the center stand without starting the engine again? If you did, the oil shifted to the left side of the engine and it did not totally refill the right engine case to the normal level. This is common with the UCE engine design. The only way to get a good indication of the oil level is to have the bike on the center stand. Then, start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Then, turn if off and wait for a minute. After doing these things in this order, your sight window will show an accurate oil level. I'm not saying your oil level is not low. It may be. But, until you use this method of establishing the oil level, you won't know.

About that oil seal.
At one time, the hole that locates the seal was not exactly in the right place relative to the bolt holes. If the mechanic just used the bolts to line up the cover, the shaft that the seal is supposed to seal will be off-set relative to the seal. This can cause the seal to leak. This isn't a obvious problem and I doubt that Royal Enfield has changed the cover holes to fix it even after all of the years the engine has been in production.

The "fix" for this problem is to drill out the mounting screw holes that are in the cover, enlarging them about 0.4 mm. This will allow the plate to shift slightly with the oil seal doing the job of locating the plate in the right location before the bolts are tightened.
I suggest that you print this out and show my comment about this to your mechanic or to the shop manager so they are aware of this potential problem.

[Malhi]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Malhi
I have several thoughts about this oil leak. Based on the photos, I don't see enough evidence of enough oil on the engine, frame, centerstand or silencer to be convinced that your engine was harmed.

Thanks ArizonaJim.

Fortunately I did not hear any very loud sounds but there was increase in handle vibrations and engine sound. To be precise, during the last 60kms or so I was unable to cross 110kmph and riding at 100kmph felt 120 (sound and vibrations-wise).

No I did not put the bike on side stand after coming to a halt (I hardly do) however there was still some oil left in and it showed up in the glass when I tilted the bike, but it only covered a quarter of the glass after even after the tilt. My estimation is it shouldn't be more than let's say 250 Ml. Rest I'll have to check.

I think my first step should be to fill it up and listen to noises, if any, at idle and then take it to a competent mechanic.

Yes, I will take a print out of your pointers. Thanks a lot for that.

[ArizonaJim]

Please do the oil level check as I described before you add any oil. The only way of getting a reliable reading is to run the engine while the motorcycle is resting on its centerstand and then shut it off and let the oil drain back down from the upper cylinder area. Be sure the centerstand is resting on a level surface.
That "level surface" is a important part of the test. If the surface is tilted, the entire motorcycle will also be tilted. That will give a misleading oil level indication in the sight gauge.

If, after you do the test, you see that the oil level is at least covering the bottom of the sight gauge, I suggest that you leave things alone. Adding additional oil could overfill the engine and, having too much oil in the engine is just as bad as having too little.

[Aniruddha_Ch]

Hello everyone,

I own an '2016 Bullet standard 500 carburettor' model, with 43,000 kms on odometer without any issues. I've noticed few cracks on rubber hose, which connects carburettor & engine. Also 2 years ago at around 30K kms, I've replaced the metal ring on the same, when it came off loose.
Does that rubber hose needs immediate replacement?






What is the ideal interval for decarbonisation, of an UCE engine which is being serviced every 3000 kms? Is it recommended for my bike?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Aniruddha_Ch

Does that rubber hose needs immediate replacement?

Replace at the earliest, don't think twice, just replace.

Also make sure to replace any consumable that accompany the manifold such as O rings.

What is the ideal interval for decarbonisation

Decarbonization is a scam, at least when it comes to 4T motorcycles, you can take my word for it.

Cheers,
A.P.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Replace at the earliest, don't think twice, just replace.

Also make sure to replace any consumable that accompany the manifold such as O rings.

Decarbonization is a scam, at least when it comes to 4T motorcycles, you can take my word for it.

Cheers,
A.P.

I agree. Decarbonization in a modern 4 stroke engine isn't needed in today's world.

60 or 75 years ago when all motor fuel contained lead and ignition systems used mechanical ignition points which were almost always out of adjustment or pitted and making poor contact, the buildup of lead and carbon in the engine's combustion chamber and on its pistol was quite common. You could plan on getting your automobile engine rebuilt after 50,000 miles (85000 km). Motorcycle engines usually needed rebuilding after 15000 miles (24000 km).

In today,s world with lead free gasoline that often has additional detergents in it, coupled with vast improvements in ignition systems there is no lead to build up and the misfire's common to old engines have all but disappeared.
Add to that the improvements in motor oil and we have automobiles that can easily go 100,000 miles (161000 km) without even changing their spark plugs. When was the last time you heard anyone say, "My car's not running very well. I better get it decarbonized." ?
The same can be said for modern 4 stroke motorcycle engines.

Now, I'm not saying the little 50 and 100 cc motorcycle engines don't need to be rebuilt more often. Those little engines work especially hard at what they do and they are often pushed to their limits trying to give their rider all of the power they can. Constantly pushing any mechanical device to its limits causes wear and tear so worn out bearings, pistons and valves are to be expected but here again, I don't think carbon buildup in a 4 stroke engine will be needed before the other parts need to be replaced.

[Aniruddha_Ch]

Also make sure to replace any consumable that accompany the manifold such as O rings.

Thank you so much clarification. Is it possible for you to elaborate on the above point? Thanks in advance.

I agree. Decarbonization in a modern 4 stroke engine isn't needed in today's world.

Thank you Jim, that was very helpful, I will definitely keep that in mind.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Aniruddha_Ch

Thank you so much clarification. Is it possible for you to elaborate on the above point? Thanks in advance.

There would most likely be an O-Ring sealing the manifold, when replacing the manifold make sure to get a new O-Ring as well.



A dab of silicon sealant would also help set your mind at ease.

Cheers,
A.P.

[Malhi]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Please do the oil level check as I described before you add any oil.

Thanks @ArizonaJim. I did top up the oil and not more than 250 ml was required for it to reach till 85% level on the glass. So in total I must have lost around 350 ml. I had previously thought that all of it must have drained.
I've taken the bike for small rides and fortunately there are no unwanted noises.
But kudos to your judgement on estimating the oil leakage just by looking at the photos.