[StreetAddict]

Originally Posted by Azzitcr

I recently bought a Classic 500 (a second hand, '15 model).

Note: I just installed a 100/90 H4 bulb with a relay kit so the amp meter goes right off the charts whenI turn on the headlight, and that auto decomp problem started right after this installation.

Ae, an ampmeter on CL500? Aftermarket??

[Azzitcr]

Originally Posted by StreetAddict

Ae, an ampmeter on CL500? Aftermarket??

Not after market. It was converted to run on a UCD33 carb and so the fuel injection and the sensors were taken off. I got the ampmeter fitted instead of the stupid fuel gauge because its so much cooler, and vintage, and helpful

Its not aftermarket though. RE's very own

[surjaonwheelz]

Hello Riders,

Where are all the Classic 500 owners? Are your machines working flawlessly, then do share your ownership and ride stories.

Less than 10 posts in 2018!

Anyways, I'm a classic 350 owner and posting here for my recent tyre change. As it applies to Classic 500 owners too.

Ride: classic 350
Color: black
Year: 2014
Odo: 40,600

Old tyres: MRF Zappers (stock)
Yes I kept using my stock tyres for four and a half years but I strictly do not advise that to any Classic owner. My past 1.5 years ride was restricted to city and occasional weekend rides. Still I managed to log a lot of kms.
One should change the stock tyres within 3 years. The Zappers do not loose tread but gets hard and surface cracks are visible. This results in occasional slides and minimal wet grip.





The odd rim size leaves us with very few options
Front: 90/90 19"
1. MRF Zapper Y (stock)
2. Ceat Zoom plus (stock in some batches)
3. Michelin Sirac (street)
4. Ralco Blaster F
5. Others - 3.5x19 tyres.
Some rear tyres can be used as front, like Ceat Milaze, TVS Jumbo etc.

Rear tyres: 110/90 x 18"
1. MRF Zapper C (stock)
2. Ceat Zoom plus (stock in some batches)
3. Michelin Sirac Street
4. Ralco Speedbaster
5. Others







I wanted the set of Ralco for both front and rear. But could not get the front tyre in Ralco. Hence got ceat at front and Ralco at the rear. In addition, had to up size rear profile to 120/80x18. Finally fulfilled the dream of up sizing
This set me back by 4000 INR. (all inclusive)

Let's go through the pictures.







Michelins are the costliest but I was sceptical about its weight handling capabilities and presumed would wear out fast. Already had MRFs so was not keen on getting another pair. But I was lucky enough to have only one puncture at the rear wheel for all these years and kms. Touch wood!

Ralco s are tubeless tyres, used it with a tube. I had already recommended bhpian //M for his Desert Storm and got good feedback. Thanks.

Ride safe
surjaonwheelz

[katoom]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

Hello Riders,

Ralco s are tubeless tyres, used it with a tube. I had already recommended bhpian //M for his Desert Storm and got good feedback. Thanks.

Ride safe
surjaonwheelz

Sorry to say this but Ralco Speedblaster is just crap on wet/slush.
Used it on the front for the Odyssey last year for almost 16k kms and I only managed to stay upright owing to the TKC at the rear. This one just goes all over the place.

However, I am curious as to how it behaves in the rear though. Keep us posted.

[su1978]

i also have a thunderbird 350. I have ceat on both front and rear. Somehow i have less confidence on these tyres as i find them to be offering lesser grip as compared to the regular zapper tyres. I am saying this because i did drive my friend's classic 500 shod with zappers. They offered a better ride and control. Even on the broken roads, they offered much more compliant ride quality. i want to change them to zappers when they will wear out.

[LazyGunner]

Originally Posted by katoom

S
However, I am curious as to how it behaves in the rear though. Keep us posted.

I'm using it on my classic rear wheel for the last 12k kms. I have to say it is much better than Zappers on wet tarmac. I have taken it on dry and wet tarmac, rough roads, no roads and slush. In fact I changed it when my stock Zapper had done only 18k and was perfectly fine because I was headed to a ride with a little bit of monsoon off-roading and I had heard good things about Speedblaster.

Because I upsized from 110/90 to 120/80, it might have reduced the FE. Also, I do not expect it to run for more than 15k kms. Another 3k kms and I'll be swapping it with a new Speedblaster again! BTW, I am running on stock tyre in the front and planning to replace it with a new Zapper when I change my rear tyre.

Originally Posted by su1978

i also have a thunderbird 350. I have ceat on both front and rear. Somehow i have less confidence on these tyres as i find them to be offering lesser grip as compared to the regular zapper tyres. I am saying this because i did drive my friend's classic 500 shod with zappers. They offered a better ride and control. Even on the broken roads, they offered much more compliant ride quality. i want to change them to zappers when they will wear out.

Are you sure it is the tyre? Because there are way too many parameters here that changed, not just the tyres. Although I do not have the first hand experience with CEAT tyres, haven't heard any of my friends complaining.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by katoom

However, I am curious as to how it behaves in the rear though. Keep us posted.

A co-rider had the Ralco at rear on a sub 8k km's ride we did, the tire was brand new when we started the ride, other than wearing down at a faster rate than expected there were no issues as far as grip went, though we only did face mild wetness here and there.

Initially it looked like this;



This is how it looked nearing the end;



Couldn't find a better shot.

[ArizonaJim]

surjaonwheelz
To answer your question, after 7 1/2 years of owning my Royal Enfield UCE 500, it is running flawlessly.

In that length of time, I have put 22,860 miles (36,870 km) on it, mostly riding in Phoenix coupled with a number of 400 + mile (645+ km) trips.
In town average speeds = 45 mph (72 km/hr) and long distance trips average 60 mph (97 km/hr).

In that length of time the major problems were one rear engine mount bolt broken (replaced) and one small crack in a frame weld joint (rewelded).

Minor problems include a rear chain that was wearing out after 3000 miles and a rear view mirror which broke internally allowing the mirror to flop around.
The kickstand safety switch would cause the engine to mis-fire at riding speeds if I was riding on rough roads so I disconnected it by unplugging the wiring lead where it plugs into the main harness.

The seals between the valve covers and the cylinder head began weeping so I resealed the joints with a oil resistant silicone rubber gasket compound.

Service parts included replacing all of the fuses with ones made in the USA, several light bulbs, front disk brake pads and two sets of replacement tires (Dunlop K70 front, Avon Speedmaster rear) and I replaced the battery with a sealed AGM type once.

My motorcycle came with a replacement clutch cable so after 18,000 miles I replaced it even though it didn't need it.

All in all, my RE has been more reliable than my BMW K-75 was.
It never fails to start and has never let me down.

Happy Riding and keep it rubber side down.

[sureshkishore]

It's been nearly a year with my brother's 2015 CL500. Have been using it since he is out of the country. It's an absolutely no fuss machine. I used to ride an old bullet 350 between 2002-2010, which in comparison had to be used with a lot of care. Need to buy a battery charger since the occasional use has taken it's toll on the battery.

[gunin]

I have a 2012 Classic 500 and clocked around 36 k Kms till date. Yesterday, when I turned on the bike, I could not hear the fuel pump priming. I checked the relay in the fuse-box and it was making a clicking sound when I turned the key to ON position. I believe this is normal behaviour of the relay?
I proceeded to tap the fuel pump housing (below the tank) and the fuel pump whirred to life and the bike started as usual. I have some queries regarding this and any pointers would be helpful.

1. Is this an early sign of the fuel pump's failure?

2. As RE doesn't sell the fuel pump motor separately (most likely the part which has gone bad) and the whole fuel pump assembly is quite expensive (around Rs.15 k), is it possible to repair the motor or get the motor separately?

3. I have read that some car's fuel pump motor is compatible with the RE but have not come across any conclusive report on the same. Any feedback on this would be really helpful

Thanks.

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by gunin

1. Is this an early sign of the fuel pump's failure?

2. As RE doesn't sell the fuel pump motor separately (most likely the part which has gone bad) and the whole fuel pump assembly is quite expensive (around Rs.15 k), is it possible to repair the motor or get the motor separately?

3. I have read that some car's fuel pump motor is compatible with the RE but have not come across any conclusive report on the same. Any feedback on this would be really helpful

Thanks.

1. Looks like a loose contact. Though get that checked with a competent electrician.
3. I believe a Chevrolet Beat pump if of the same size. Better to remove and carry the pump alone and check it physically side by side with a mpfi car pump.

Regards,
Ilango P

[Chris_Xtreme]

Hello Friends, Planning to fix the bar end mirrors and finisher which RE has launched for the GT Twins for my Stealth Black C500. Any thoughts / suggestions?

[Sandman689]

Hi fellow riders,


I have a Desert Storm which has clocked 29k. Every time I ride, some voice at the back of my mind whispers "Gosh this desert iron horse needs a 5th gear"


But I haven't been able to find out the ratios of my current gearbox or if there is any gear with more that 1:1 ratio.


If there are any, I'd be very willing to swap them out as I feel the engine has to rev quite a lot as it gets near 120.


Please advice.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Sandman689

But I haven't been able to find out the ratios of my current gearbox or if there is any gear with more that 1:1 ratio.

If I'm right only the 3rd gear is the closest to 1:1 Ratio, anything above that is overdrive, though I'm not aware of the exact gear ratios.

If there are any, I'd be very willing to swap them out as I feel the engine has to rev quite a lot as it gets near 120.

A cheaper and convenient means would be to play with the sprockets, though keep in mind the UCE 500 is meant to be a Locomotive for the hills rather than a Sports Tourer.

Then there's also the option of de-restricting the exhaust which though I'm not a fan of makes quite a difference on RE's, especially the UCE 350 which I've experienced first hand, but then again the UCE 350 is a higher revving motor compared to the UCE 500 in spite of the latter sporting a wider bore.

So best to keep things stock or wait for inputs from experienced RE owners. I don't own a RE.

[Abhishek3001]

Originally Posted by Sandman689

But I haven't been able to find out the ratios of my current gearbox or if there is any gear with more that 1:1 ratio.

Here's the gear ratios for the classic 350 as well as 500.
The only difference in the drive train of these two is the different final drive ratios (ie secondary chain drive ratios)