Originally Posted by BB311
Popping-In the discussion above:
>Synthetic Engine Oil should not be used for first 10k KM's as it will increase the engine running-In time for your car.
>Start using synthetic engine oil from the point you feel an increase in ease of revving and increase in mileage.
> For my Swift Petrol I made the change at 10k KM.
> Considering you are not going to use your car for more than 1-1.2 lakh km, the only advantage of synthetic would be, the last 2k KM of 10k Service interval. A car on synthetic engine oil will normally still feel like a "just serviced" car.
> Car's run on synthetic engine oil always feel more revv-happy.
On a side note, I can't use synthetic engine oil on my Ecosport as according to Harpreet Ford - Delhi, This will void the warranty. Is it possible for a manufacturer to not recommend synthetic Oil ?
I don’t understand how using synthetic engine oil would increase running in of an engine.
Using mineral oil for first 5,000/10,000 kms is old wives tale & was may be true 20 years ago not any more. Tribology has moved on a lot in last 20 years & you can use synthetics from get go without any problem what so ever.
Going by above logic engines in cars from OEMs such as Audi, BMW, Porsche, Mercedes Benz, JLR & other luxury brands would never be broken in properly as their engines (all their models) come factory filled with full synthetics.
Our here every car from all the OEMs (yes even the big 3 Americans) comes factory filled with either a synthetic blend or full synthetic oil. GM does this officially by calling it DEXOS (their in-house spec). Ford, Chrysler, Honda, Toyota, Hyundai & all the other mainstream OEMs use low viscosity oils such as 0W/5W-20/30. Fact of the matter is such low viscosity oils cannot be manufactured without using some percentage of synthetics in it.
I have a little bit of knowledge in this field having worked for over 22 years with oil majors in the field of lubricants & having dealt with OEMs such as Ferrari, Mercedes Benz, BMW, Chrysler, GM & Suzuki (till 2012 when they folded their North American operations).
If you’re still uncomfortable using full synthetics from the get go, run your engine till about 1,000 kms, dump the oil & switch to full synthetics.
The only car that cannot use a synthetic is Mazda RX-7 with a rotary engine.
As for the befits of synthetics there are many.
Synthetics flow better as compared to mineral oils. 95% of engine damage occurs at start up. As synthetics flow much faster they are able to reach the innards of engine much quicker thereby providing protection to the valve train & other componentry immediately.
When your car is going up that hill in 40C & your air-conditioning is on, your mineral oil is practically cooking in the engine resulting in oxidation, it being subjected to intense elevated temperatures. Synthetics are much more shear stable, have a much better low & high temperature properties & would keep your engine healthy far longer.
Let me put this into perspective. If you drive 20,000 kms a year & your car averages 15 KMPL, you will be spending approx. Rs 95,000 on gasoline. If you change your oil twice in a year based on average oil change interval of 10,000 kms you would likely spend Rs 5,000 (maybe) more for a synthetic oil change in that year.
I think it a damn good deal if it ensures your engine longevity & prevents other secondary problems.
Originally Posted by drive_angry
Ahhh..finally found engine Run-In thread. So, by gods grace, I will be taking delivery of Innova Crysta ZX MT on Friday. After going through the posts, this is what I have concluded.
1. Never rip on the cold starts, let the engine idle for 5-10 minutes at the start of each day.
2. Do not keep your RPM constant, new engine is supposed to experience complete range it has to go through its life period
3. For first 10k KM, do not use synthetic oil as it has know to slow down the Run-In Process due to its lubrication properties.
4. Mineral Oil till 10K KM.
5. First service at 1K KM.
6. You can use climate control during Run-In period.
7. Keep Revs under 2200rpm for first 1K KM and then 2500 to 2800 rpm till 1.5K KM and so on.
Now the questions that's been bugging me.
7. It has been advised to avoid bumper to bumper traffic but what if one lives in infamous traffic cities of India (Delhi-NCR)?
8. For engine in its Run-In period how much time should be ‘On’ at a stretch or it doesn’t matter?
9. It is also advised that long highway trips should be avoided. How much KM one should travel before putting the car to rest?
10. We intend to go on a weekend getaway on some hilly location, is it safe/okay to travel to a hilly location for a car in its Run-In period?
11. When is one supposed to change other fluids (Like Coolant, Purolator, etc) in the car?
Please pardon me for naive questions, if any. Thanks much!
Okay I have taken care of use of synthetics during running in so let’s get it out of the way.
Now coming to idling; you cannot do a greater disservice to your car if you’re idling for anything more than 10 to 15 seconds.
Warming up your car before driving is an old practice from a time when carbureted engines dominated the roads. Carburetors mix gasoline and air to make vaporized fuel to run an engine, but they don't have sensors that tweak the amount of gasoline when the engine is cold. As a result, you have to let older cars warm up before driving or they will stall out.
So unless you’re driving a car with carburetted engine, do not idle you engine at start up, the engine does not need it.
Modern MPFI engines detect if the engine is cold & will run a rich mixture at start up. If you drive away with 5 to 10 seconds after cranking your engine, the engine will reach its optimum operating temperature much faster.
If on the other hand you continue to idle, the rpm will be low so the amount of oil that is reaching rings on the piston will be less, second major problem is gasoline that is being dumped into the cylinder. Ideally at the operating temperature this gasoline is vaporised by the injectors however in a cold engine some portion of the gasoline remains liquid. Now gasoline is a great solvent & it will wash off the lubricant from the cylinder walls & reduce life of your cylinder liners & piston rings. It will also reduce your fuel economy drastically as ECU will run a rich mixture during idling.
Now comes the question whether you should drive on highway/ drive to hill station/use air conditioning so on & so forth.
Please note that the idea is to vary the load/speed of the engine during the running in period. Basically what this means is don’t drive at a constant speed during running in, that’s all. The owner’s manual will have detailed instruction as to how fast in respective gears (in case it’s a manual transmission) can you go during the running in. Please follow that. I don’t see why you cannot drive to a hill station when the engine is being run in. And yes you can use air conditioning continuously during this period.
You’re in India; how long do you think you will be able to go at a constant speed whether on highway much less on city streets
As for changing the fluids such as engine/ transmission/coolants etc., please follow the instructions given in your owners’ manual. It is your bible please read it.
My two cents..