[amitk26]

I need urgent help for BESCOM temp connection bill calculation for under construction site.

Due to lock down the electrical contractor through which I got temporary connection is not reachable. Till now he used to update the reading from site
to BESCOM and I could make online payments based on it.

This month it is not done so on BESCOM website against the consumer id the amount due is show as zero.

I got this months reading and previous months reading the connection is for 1KW and total consumption is 100 units approx. ( this month 1368 last month 1268)

How do I calculate the amount to be paid online ?

Earlier once reading was missed and after 4 days BESCOM disconnected temp connection and I had to shell off 1OK more to take new temp connection and I got connection through another contractor. This time I don't want to be in same situation

Any help will be appreciated.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by amitk26

I need urgent help for BESCOM temp connection bill calculation for under construction site.
How do I calculate the amount to be paid online ?
Any help will be appreciated.

I don't know about BESCOM, but in TNEB (Tamil Nadu EB) , you just pay what you paid in the last cycle. I usually do this for my rented apartment when it is vacant.

[keroo1099]

Originally Posted by amitk26

I got this months reading and previous months reading the connection is for 1KW and total consumption is 100 units approx. ( this month 1368 last month 1268)

How do I calculate the amount to be paid online ?

I agree with Prowler, just pay what you paid last month.

[diyguy]

I purchased a CRI 1HP jet pump for my borewell last year. The purchase was made in a hurry the day I landed from the US and we had no water as the previous motor was jammed. It is a rented house and the older one seemed more than 10 years old. I purchased a single stage pump which I was told will support upto 120ft of well depth.
I now realize that my pump may be underpowered to lift water from a 60ft borewell directly up to our overhead tank. The pipe length it needs to traverse is roughly about 130ft with about 8 bends along the way. It takes ages for our overhead tank to get full and consumes a lot of power.
I was under the impression that the water was insufficient but have come to realize that the fault is mine and the pump is just unable to pump that high.
I plan to replace this with a 1HP 2 stage pump. Can anyone advise if this will suffice and or if I should go for the 1.5HP and throttle the water to avoid drying up the well?
I plan to go for CRI again though I am unhappy with the current one as it failed once and I had a tough time getting it serviced and we were without water for this duration. I will retain this older one as a backup for such an eventuality in the future.
Any suggestions for another brand? I have texmo as a pressure pump at home.

[Jaguar]

I was trying to replace the hinges of my kitchen cupboard with soft close ones and screwed up. The holes I drilled are of larger diameter. I am guessing the materiel is laminated particleboard. What is the easiest way to fix this? I looked online and read about using wood filler. Is that available in hardware shops here and what's it called in local lingo? Or am I better off trying to source bigger (thicker) screws?

[rdst_1]

Originally Posted by diyguy

I purchased a CRI 1HP jet pump for my borewell last year. The purchase was made in a hurry the day I landed from the US and we had no water as the previous motor was jammed. It is a rented house and the older one seemed more than 10 years old. I purchased a single stage pump which I was told will support upto 120ft of well depth.
I now realize that my pump may be underpowered to lift water from a 60ft borewell directly up to our overhead tank. The pipe length it needs to traverse is roughly about 130ft with about 8 bends along the way. It takes ages for our overhead tank to get full and consumes a lot of power.
I was under the impression that the water was insufficient but have come to realize that the fault is mine and the pump is just unable to pump that high.
I plan to replace this with a 1HP 2 stage pump. Can anyone advise if this will suffice and or if I should go for the 1.5HP and throttle the water to avoid drying up the well?
I plan to go for CRI again though I am unhappy with the current one as it failed once and I had a tough time getting it serviced and we were without water for this duration. I will retain this older one as a backup for such an eventuality in the future.
Any suggestions for another brand? I have texmo as a pressure pump at home.

I have a KSB 1.5HP borewell pump which is at 150ft inside the borewell and another 30ft to the tank. It used to pump around 100LPM for that height. Now I have a different setup as I needed to add filtration, so I got a normal Kirloskar 1.5HP pump as well which only has to pump the last 30ft but through 18 bends and it still pumps around 200LPM.
I used this calculator to calculate friction loss in terms of head loss and added to my 30ft of actual head and bought a pump that suited my requirement. I actually was lucky to buy directly from the Kirloskar distributor and he told me that minimum head and maximum head are both equally important when buying a pump. Don't buy one whose minimum head rating exceeds your actual head. Been using the KSB pump simce 2016 and I actually use it to water our fields as well. The Kirloskar pump is in duty for only 1 year now. If I would need to replace the borewell pump, I might end up going for Kirloskar again, but that is purely due to the distributor guy as well as the service guy who I had the pleasure of interacting with for a minor thing I broke when installing the pump. Both were beyond excellent in their behaviour even to a small fish like me.

http://www.freecalc.com/fricfram.htm

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by diyguy

..........
I plan to go for CRI again though I am unhappy with the current one as it failed once and I had a tough time getting it serviced and we were without water for this duration. I will retain this older one as a backup for such an eventuality in the future.
Any suggestions for another brand? I have texmo as a pressure pump at home.

If your pump can lift water to the ground level, then instead of changing it for a higher capacity one, you can try the following
. Use the pump to lift water from the well/bore and store it in a large Sintex Tank. That will help in desilting the raw water.
. Use a small 1/2HP pump to lift the water from ground to the over head tank.

The advantage of this is that you have a tank and a pump that you can carry with you if you change the house, assuming you will leave the bore well pump where it is.

[audioholic]

Does anyone have experience of converting an existing RCC pillar into a metal one? In my grandmothers place there is a pillar that supports a beam which supports a walkway on the terrace. The walkway just connects to the terrace but does not directly hold the load of the roof. This pillar is placed in a position which will restrict the space available below. The intention is to move this pillar by two feet which will allow me to park a bigger car. Instead of going the masonry way, I have seen quite a few buildings which have been restructured by using iron beams. Hence I thought of installing an iron pillar two feet away from the existing pillar and demolishing the pillar. Will this idea work out well and cost effective or is it better to construct another RCC pillar? The load on the pillar is just the walkway, and the house is a single level house. Maybe I should share a picture for better understanding.

Originally Posted by Jaguar

I was trying to replace the hinges of my kitchen cupboard with soft close ones and screwed up. The holes I drilled are of larger diameter. I am guessing the materiel is laminated particleboard. What is the easiest way to fix this? I looked online and read about using wood filler. Is that available in hardware shops here and what's it called in local lingo? Or am I better off trying to source bigger (thicker) screws?
Attachment 2001725

I am not sure of this but how about epoxy filler or M Seal? You might have to do some artwork on the area so that the filler can sit in the form of tentacles so it can hold the load.

[keroo1099]

Originally Posted by audioholic

Does anyone have experience of converting an existing RCC pillar into a metal one? In my grandmothers place there is a pillar that supports a beam which supports a walkway on the terrace. The walkway just connects to the terrace but does not directly hold the load of the roof. This pillar is placed in a position which will restrict the space available below. The intention is to move this pillar by two feet which will allow me to park a bigger car. Instead of going the masonry way, I have seen quite a few buildings which have been restructured by using iron beams. Hence I thought of installing an iron pillar two feet away from the existing pillar and demolishing the pillar. Will this idea work out well and cost effective or is it better to construct another RCC pillar? The load on the pillar is just the walkway, and the house is a single level house. Maybe I should share a picture for better understanding.

If I understand correctly, you have a beam supported at two ends with just a walkway on top and a pillar somewhere in the middle of this span. If this is the situation you could get away by installing a MS column anchored securely to the beam above (base plate welded to the beam reinforcement) and the required pedestal/footing below.

Install the MS column, and provide additional support to the walkway along the empty span (MS centering jacks) before you demolish the RCC column. You need to get a Structural Engineer to give you the details of the MS column (traditional 'I' section is stronger than a box section) and foundation/anchoring details.

A pic or sketch would be helpful.

[mvadg]

Originally Posted by audioholic

Does anyone have experience of converting an existing RCC pillar into a metal one? In my grandmothers place there is a pillar that supports a beam which supports a walkway on the terrace. The walkway just connects to the terrace but does not directly hold the load of the roof. This pillar is placed in a position which will restrict the space available below. The intention is to move this pillar by two feet which will allow me to park a bigger car. Instead of going the masonry way, I have seen quite a few buildings which have been restructured by using iron beams...

If you are moving the column, will it move along the centerline of the beam? If so, this will be a much simpler solution. You will just need to strengthen the beam a bit near the new junction, and put a column in the new position. Because the steel column required will be slimmer, you will have to compensate for buckling forces, so a larger section is always better. Alternatively, You could put a inverted "U" shaped structure, or an arch, and distribute the forces on the original pillar into two, going towards the edges of the building.

If the column is moving into a new position towards the edges of the beam, there will be eccentric forces. Far more complex.

Disclosure - not a practicing structural engineer, this is what I remember of the basic fundamentals.

[keroo1099]

Originally Posted by mvadg

Alternatively, You could put a inverted "U" shaped structure, or an arch, and distribute the forces on the original pillar into two, going towards the edges of the building.

The problem with this is that you need to demolish the RCC column before you can construct the arch which is a bad idea.

[Aroy]

Normally in older construction a simply supported beam is used. In your case the pillar supports two beams one on each side. So moving the pillar is not feasible from structural and safety point of view.

If the walkway is high enough, then you can consult a structural engineer and -
1. Design an I/H beam with at least 500mm or greater depth.
2. Cast the beam in three parts - Left and right of the column initially.
3. Once the concrete hardens, you can demolish the column/pillar and complete the beam. There will be supports to shore up the form work anyway.
4. Give the concrete at least 21 days to cure.

You can do the same thing using a Steel I/H beam, but in my opinion it may be more expensive than concrete.

[prasanth]

Mine is a 30 year old single storeyed house with brick wall. Walls are 9.5" thick. I would like to add two more floors. Is that possible? What are the things to take into consideration?

I would like to remove the outside staircase and extend the current roof a bit outside at the backside and thus have a bigger kitchen. Inside the house I would like to add a new staircase.

[amitk26]

How about demolishing the walkway / Chajja above and replacing it with steel supported deck roofing So you will have I Section as a column and welded steel rectangular tubes for supporting walkway and instead of RCC slab you can have lightweight 2 inch concrete layer on steel decking sheet.

Reduced load will allow to have smaller I section steel column and this will give modern look to existing portion.

May be little more expensive depending on size of walkway but safer and you can redesign as per need.

Originally Posted by audioholic

Does anyone have experience of converting an existing RCC pillar into a metal one? In my grandmothers place there is a pillar that supports a beam which supports a walkway on the terrace. The walkway just connects to the terrace but does not directly hold the load of the roof. This pillar is placed in a position which will restrict the space available below. The intention is to move this pillar by two feet which will allow me to park a bigger car. Instead of going the masonry way, I have seen quite a few buildings which have been restructured by using iron beams. Hence I thought of installing an iron pillar two feet away from the existing pillar and demolishing the pillar. Will this idea work out well and cost effective or is it better to construct another RCC pillar? The load on the pillar is just the walkway, and the house is a single level house. Maybe I should share a picture for better understanding.
.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by prasanth

Mine is a 30 year old single storeyed house with brick wall. Walls are 9.5" thick. I would like to add two more floors. Is that possible? What are the things to take into consideration?

I would like to remove the outside staircase and extend the current roof a bit outside at the backside and thus have a bigger kitchen. Inside the house I would like to add a new staircase.

It all depends on how strong the foundation is. If it is deep and wide enough 9" brick wall can support two stories. But to be on the safe side you can consider the following

1. If the built up area that you want to retain is less than 1000 sq.ft, and the new built up floor area more than 1600 sq.ft. It may be less expensive to demolish the existing structure and build a new structure based on RCC Frames (Beam-Column), designed to have at least 5 floors in future.

2. If the above is not to your liking, then get a structural engineer to design columns and beams to retrofit into your existing structure as well as take the load of a couple of floors.