[amitk26]

Originally Posted by architect

Not used brick hardener ever.

The biggest problem you will face with exposed brickwork is the white patches that will develop in a few weeks after masonry is done. . But you can try washing the brick wall surface with tamarind water to get rid of the white efflorescence marks when it appears. I am enclosing a photo to show you efflorescence.

Instead of painting the brick, I would suggest you leave them in a natural state and colour the mortar

Thanks, This is how the brick masonry is coming up.

Will keep the tip of washing with tamrind water in mind.
Thinking of ponting the joints with white cement or may be leave it grey as well.
Joints are 15mm kept uniform using a piece of plywood.

[Pancham]

Originally Posted by architect

Not really. It will take longer for every coat and the overall wall in drying. However, on a more humanitarian note, scores of petty contractors are literally on the verge of starvation. Even a small work like a flat would be godsend for them, so please give them extra time to do a good job and give them work. If they do it carefully and dry every coat properly, it shouldn't be a major issue if the walls themselves are dry.

Many thanks! Yes I fully agree to what you are saying.

I got a quote for INR 9/sq. ft for Asian Paints - Tractor Emulsion and INR 14.5/sq. ft. for Asian Paints - Premium Emulsion. I have no clue if paying a premium of INR 5.5/ sq. ft will make much of a difference. The rates seem reasonable. No?

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Pancham

Many thanks for your detailed response. Another noob question: Is monsoon the right season to get the interiors painted? If not, what issues can I face going forward?

Also, by stone counter you mean the granite work right? That has already been provided by the builder. Also, the walls are overall in good condition since the apartment has just been handed over. Some levelling work may be required though.

Monsoon results in high humidity. That increase the time for the paint to dry. It can take upto 3 days during rains. As said the labour may be cheaper so you can go ahead, but let each coat dry, do not hurry. You can use fan based room heaters to speed up the drying if you are in a hurry.

I am confused by "Leveling". If it is walls then you have to straighten the walls, normally plaster of paris will do the job. If it is floors, then it is difficult.

One thing that is normally an irritant is the leveling of the bathroom floor. Check the leveling with water. If it flows back to the drain naturally, fine, Other wise you may have to redo the floor. A badly leveled floor will always have water pooling at some spot, a lifetime irritant.

[Pancham]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Monsoon results in high humidity. That increase the time for the paint to dry. It can take upto 3 days during rains. As said the labour may be cheaper so you can go ahead, but let each coat dry, do not hurry. You can use fan based room heaters to speed up the drying if you are in a hurry.

I am confused by "Leveling". If it is walls then you have to straighten the walls, normally plaster of paris will do the job. If it is floors, then it is difficult.

One thing that is normally an irritant is the leveling of the bathroom floor. Check the leveling with water. If it flows back to the drain naturally, fine, Other wise you may have to redo the floor. A badly leveled floor will always have water pooling at some spot, a lifetime irritant.

No I actually meant levelling the wall. Apologies for not using the technical term. Nothing planned for the floors for now.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Pancham

No I actually meant levelling the wall. Apologies for not using the technical term. Nothing planned for the floors for now.

Once constructed the wall can only be "leveled" by adding another layer of coating. This is usually plaster of Paris. The advantage is that not only does the wall become straight and smooth, but if properly applied and dried will not "wrinckle" in future. It is an ideal base for synthetic paints as no paint soaks into it. Just ensure that the wall is smoothed properly and give it a couple of days to dry.

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by architect

You can use natural pigment ('surkhi') or expensive pigments from laticrete.
..
In the photo we have used laticrete pigment.

One follow up question

Which Laticrete pigment /product specifically I should use ?

I searched online and found few Laticrete products

1. Laticrete 190

https://myklaticrete.com/products/ti...laticrete-190/

The description indicates colourless silicon based sealant for porous surfaces like brick and marble.
This kind of fits my requirement as colour of bricks is uniform and surfaces are smooth similar to Mangalore roof tiles I only need a protective coating to give them longer life.

2. Other products on Laticrete website which look useful for this usecase are Maxiseal (three variants)

https://myklaticrete.com/products/ti...maxiseal-plus/

Maxiseal plus which is described as nanotechnology based imprignating sealer for porous surfaces and there are three variants maxiseal plus,

Maxiseal aqua ( water based sealant) and Maxiseal.

These three maxiseal products are also colourless.

By description this category of products should also fit in.

[suzuki san]

Hi Guys,

I had fitted Tata Bluescope Durashine metal sheets (tile finish design) on my garage roof last year.
For some reason, the stupid fabricator did not remove the protective sheet / sticker with the Tata logo on it even though it says to remove immediately and I told him a few times as well.
Anyway, went to extend the roof last week and saw this sheet still there. Tried to remove it but was well near impossible. Does anyone have any ideas as to how to remove this protective sheet / sticker without damaging the reddish coating below?

Thanks & Regards,
SS

[architect]

Originally Posted by amitk26

One follow up question

Which Laticrete pigment /product specifically I should use ?

Hi Amit, in the photos I shared, the pigment used is 'geru', a natural colour. Laticrete pigments are very expensive and feasible only for interior / high-cost finish usage. But, I have asked the site team to send me the contact details of the Laticrete representative and I shall send the same to you by PM. Please remember to be careful with the application or get the authorised applicator.

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by architect

Hi Amit, in the photos I shared, the pigment used is 'geru', a natural colour. Laticrete pigments are very expensive and feasible only for interior / high-cost finish usage. But, I have asked the site team to send me the contact details of the Laticrete representative and I shall send the same to you by PM. Please remember to be careful with the application or get the authorised applicator.

Thanks a lot on IndiaMart Laticrete 190 is shown as 8000/- for 20 L and coverage is shown to be 75 sq feet per liter.

So leaving 1.5 feet beam aside roughly 10 feet running length section should be covered in 1 liter.
May be I will go for it for exposed exterior as there are ample bay windows and french windows in my house it may work out provided it can prevent erosion of brick due to rains/acid formed due to pollution.
I have seen geru being used in my childhood for coloring.

However my Mestri and contractor had never heard word geru they are suggesting red oxide.

Anyone knows where I can find geru locally in Bangalore and what it is called here ?

[Pancham]

Guys, I have a bathroom query. I live in the top floor of a 4-storey apartment building and quite naturally the water pressure in the taps and showers is terrible. It is very very low. So to fix this, can I fit a small pressure pump? My building is quite old (~35 years) and the pipes and all are pretty old. Also, there is a lot of iron sedimentation for sure. Will it help? If not is there anything else I can do?

[Sebring]

Just look up the SCALA2 pump from Grundfos. It ensures perfect pressure in taps

Originally Posted by Pancham

Guys, I have a bathroom query. I live in the top floor of a 4-storey apartment building and quite naturally the water pressure in the taps and showers is terrible. It is very very low. So to fix this, can I fit a small pressure pump? My building is quite old (~35 years) and the pipes and all are pretty old. Also, there is a lot of iron sedimentation for sure. Will it help? If not is there anything else I can do?

[architect]

Originally Posted by Pancham

Guys, I have a bathroom query. I live in the top floor of a 4-storey apartment building and quite naturally the water pressure in the taps and showers is terrible. It is very very low. So to fix this, can I fit a small pressure pump? My building is quite old (~35 years) and the pipes and all are pretty old. Also, there is a lot of iron sedimentation for sure. Will it help? If not is there anything else I can do?

The worry is that if your pipes are old and have been operating on low pressure so far, they will leak if you increase the water pressure, causing seepage. This has happened in some old buildings. I would advise replacing the supply pipes before adding a pump.

[akhil_007]

Originally Posted by Pancham

Guys, I have a bathroom query. I live in the top floor of a 4-storey apartment building and quite naturally the water pressure in the taps and showers is terrible. It is very very low. So to fix this, can I fit a small pressure pump? My building is quite old (~35 years) and the pipes and all are pretty old. Also, there is a lot of iron sedimentation for sure. Will it help? If not is there anything else I can do?

GI pipes corroding is the reason. Change it to CPVC and see if pressure improves, as volume of water flow increases. Next remove, clean and refit all taps. Get the geyser cleaned(basically remove the scaling inside drum). Pressure and flow will definitely improve. If you're still not satisfied, go for a pressure pump.

As explained by the other member, if you install pressure pumps first, pipes might burst.

[Pancham]

Originally Posted by architect

The worry is that if your pipes are old and have been operating on low pressure so far, they will leak if you increase the water pressure, causing seepage. This has happened in some old buildings. I would advise replacing the supply pipes before adding a pump.

Originally Posted by akhil_007

GI pipes corroding is the reason. Change it to CPVC and see if pressure improves, as volume of water flow increases. Next remove, clean and refit all taps. Get the geyser cleaned(basically remove the scaling inside drum). Pressure and flow will definitely improve. If you're still not satisfied, go for a pressure pump.

As explained by the other member, if you install pressure pumps first, pipes might burst.

Great suggestions. Thanks. That puts my plan to rest as changing the pipes under the current scenario is a strict no. It will require major works I presume. So postponing it for now.

[Aroy]

As you are on the top floor changing pipes is relatively easier.

1. Use a 25mm CPVC pipe from a major manufacturer. The pipe walls should be thick, from the overhead tank, instead of the older 23mm/19mm GI pipes.
2. It is best to fully remove the older pipes. That is a major exercise as you will have to cut the wall to get at the old pipes.
3. Use 25mm pipe upto each location - Kitchen, bathrooms etc. For internal routing the normal 19mm pipe is sufficient.
4. While you are at it, get all the taps cleaned. Replace them with single lever types if they are more than 30 years old.
5. As suggested get the geysers descaled.
6. If you have a washing machine or a dishwasher, then connect them to the 25mm pipe. It is best to have these devices on the shortest path.

Here are links

https://dir.indiamart.com/impcat/cpvc-pipe.html

https://www.familyhandyman.com/proje...plumbing-pipe/


The above steps will increase your water pressure quite a lot. It may even double if the pipes are old and choked.