[ranjitnair77]

My house has a sloping concrete roof which used to have mangalore tiles earlier. However we had to remove that because of seepage. This has now resulted in the roof getting uncomfortably hot in summers. I was thinking of installing cool roof tiles. Does anyone have any experience or feedback on this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKG9pFRD1BM

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by ranjitnair77

This has now resulted in the roof getting uncomfortably hot in summers. ]

Even painting it white will help, and won't cost much.

Next step would be to go for a heat-reflective white paint. We have done this, and I can walk on our terrace with ease in midsummer, whereas on bare concrete, such as the drive, it hurts my feet to put them down even for a moment.

I don't have a brand name. We did try a big-brand product once, but it was not satisfactory. Ours is done by a local guy whose "German Technology" small ad caught our eye. It is for waterproof and heat resist. We get it redone every few years. Small business, but the guy honours his warranty and comes and fixes problems for us. Last time, his workers did not do a good job: we called him back and he immediately agreed and did it again. If you were in Chennai... But anyway, this kind of product would definitely be a lot cheaper than tiles.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by IP_Man

Dear Civil engineers/experts on Team-BHP, pl. help.

I have open adjutant terrace to my new flat, suffers from weird moisture leakage around the grout from the beginning as shown in the figure.

I raise this issue with the builder. He opened all the tile joints and carefully filled with Epoxy-Grout, but despite of this problem remains unsolved.

My online study on this matter revealed that epoxy grout is not suitable for outdoor open terrace because of UV exposure and expansion and contraction due to day/night temperature difference.

Please suggest a solution to this problem. Engineering department of builder is bewildered due to this problem and don't know what to do.

Is the terrace "Cantilever", that is supported only at the joint? If so then the problem is "flexing", that is the cantilever will bend with load and then return back once the load is removed. In suck cases a hard grout is useless. Instead, use "flexible" grout - tar based or silicone based that do not harden, seep into every crack nd move with the gap.

A friend once brought a tube of Silicone grout from US (it is quite cheap) that helped seal similar crack. I think that similar grout is now available in India. Here is an interesting product that may help you
https://www.amazon.in/Dr-Fixit-302-S...%2C205&sr=1-33

[Amrik Singh]

Originally Posted by Aroy

A friend once brought a tube of Silicone grout from US (it is quite cheap) that helped seal similar crack. I think that similar grout is now available in India. Here is an interesting product that may help you
https://www.amazon.in/Dr-Fixit-302-S...%2C205&sr=1-33

If you are suggesting Silicone sealant, it is available at most of the Hardware/Plumbing Shops in Cartridge (Tubes). The applicator gun needs to be purchased from Tools Shop.
Sealant is available in Clear and White, the two colours I have used. Only thing that while purchasing, check and ensure that it should not be too old packed. Stored in hot places, it starts solidifying.

[IP_Man]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Is the terrace "Cantilever", that is supported only at the joint?

I don't think so. Mine is on top floor flat and open terrace is actually rooftop of flats one level bellow.

[earthian]

Advice required for water softener and DG set:

3M WTS 28

The dealer has quoted as under:

MODEL – 3M WTS28 Fully Automatic water softener system + 801F Pre-filter System

1 HARDNESS : 200 PPM
2 OUT PUT SOFT WATER HARDNESS : BELOW 50 PPM
3 SOFT WATER OUT LET : 3,000 LITERS / HOUR Max
4 REGENERATION PERIOD : Every 4 days ( Use – 1000 LTR/Day )
5 WORKING PRESSURE : 1.5 KG/CM2
6 MAXIMUM OPERATING PRESSURE : 5 KG/CM2
7 TEST PRESSURE : 8 KG/CM2
8 SOFTENER VESSEL : FRP vessel with cabinet unit
9 Softener Cabinet Dimension (H x W) 1 44” x 10”
10 3M RESIN Volume : 28 LITERS
11 SALT Storage capacity : 100 KG
12 Salt requirement 2.7 KG per regeneration
13 Softener Pre Filter 1 IAS801F 3M Sediment filter (5 Micron)
14 MULTIPORT OPERATING VALVE 1 Automatic
* QUANTITY 1 SET
* UNIT PRICE Rs. 1,24,990.00

Note:
• Any Kind of Civil, electrical and Plumbing works are in customer scope
• Plumbing Materials are in Customer Scope.
• Considering Site Design, Relay panel require for Auto Softener, Additional cost Will be @9000 Rs.


He did say that we could negotiate some discount? How much is possible?

10 KVA Genset

While on the subject, require advice for finalising a Genset. Offers are as follows:

Would welcome advice. Thanks.

[Aroy]

There are a lot of costs involved in owning a generator.

Apart from the initial cost, please find the following :

1. Service interval in hours
2. Service cost - both parts and labour
3. Major overhaul interval, as well as its cost
4. Fuel consumption at your stated load

Once you get these, you will be able to calculate the "cost-of-ownership" over the life of the generator.

I would always prefer a 4 cylinder over 2 cylinder engine both from the point of view of smoothness as well as from running costs.

[earthian]

Originally Posted by Aroy

I would always prefer a 4 cylinder over 2 cylinder engine both from the point of view of smoothness as well as from running costs.

Any difference in reliability? Thought 4 cylinder vs 2 cylinder would be relevant for smoothness if on a vehicle.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by earthian

Any difference in reliability? Thought 4 cylinder vs 2 cylinder would be relevant for smoothness if on a vehicle.

My guess is that the smoothness here we speak about is related to the way the alternator is driven. In a two cylinder engine, the power strokes of the two cylinder would be followed by one non powered stroke after which the second cylinder would fire. In a four cylinder engine this would be continuous, ie every stroke, one cylinder would fire. The result is that in the non powered stroke of the two cylinder engine, load on the alternator could create a drop in engine speed and there by frequency of the output, whereas in a four cylinder engine this would be much stable. This is just based on my understanding and am open to correction.

[HTC]

Dear all,

Need your advice, inputs, guidance and suggestions on UPvC windows.

I'm starting construction of house with five 2 bhk units in Mysore. I'm evaluating UPvC option for windows and five balcony slider doors. The building contractor has given a quote of 410-430 INR/feet. Brand is 'Simta'. Since multiple units are there, he can workout a better deal is what he said. When I checked on other established brands like Finesta etc, their rates are upward of 1700/-. Bit confused here. Can experienced members who are aware of UPvC's provide some insights please.

1. For budget construction ( read rent purpose) which is better? UPvC or wood?

2. Longevity of UPvC?

3. Why there is such a price difference between upvc brands?

4. Specs to consider when evaluating price vs product

5. Honest downside of UPvC compared to traditional wooden windows.

6. Any inputs on 'Simta upvc or suggestions on other vendors are welcome.

At the end of the day, I'm looking for asimple, long lasting solutuion which can take rental abuse and will be easy fix if needed.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by HTC

Dear all,

Need your advice, inputs, guidance and suggestions on UPvC windows.

I'm starting construction of house with five 2 bhk units in Mysore. I'm evaluating UPvC option for windows and five balcony slider doors. The building contractor has given a quote of 410-430 INR/feet. Brand is 'Simta'. Since multiple units are there, he can workout a better deal is what he said. When I checked on other established brands like Finesta etc, their rates are upward of 1700/-. Bit confused here. Can experienced members who are aware of UPvC's provide some insights please.

1. For budget construction ( read rent purpose) which is better? UPvC or wood?

2. Longevity of UPvC?

3. Why there is such a price difference between upvc brands?

4. Specs to consider when evaluating price vs product

5. Honest downside of UPvC compared to traditional wooden windows.

6. Any inputs on 'Simta upvc or suggestions on other vendors are welcome.

At the end of the day, I'm looking for asimple, long lasting solutuion which can take rental abuse and will be easy fix if needed.

Things that comes from experience :
1. In general a rented house will have more maintenance compared to owner occupied one.
2. Using state of art material is of no use, unless the rental rates require it.
3. A house on rent has to be painted and repaired every 2/3 years or when the occupancy changes.

So use good material that can be easily maintained/repaired, and avoid exotic paints/fixtures as the occupant may not appreciate it.

1. For rent UPVC is better as it is more economical.
2. Wood, Steel and Aluminum last for ages. UPVC will have a life of 30 years or so before deteriorating.
3. Price depends on both quality and brand image. Fenesta has better brand image so should be more expensive, but not 3 times. You get what you pay for (more or less) so a product at 1/3 price will definitely be flimsier.
4.
5. Wood is wood, nothing can replace it - elegance, ease of maintenance etc. But termites are a problem, unless you use seasoned Teak. UPVC is the in thing today, best suited for rental houses (in my opinion).

[earthian]

Originally Posted by earthian

Advice required for water softener and DG set:

3M WTS 28

The dealer has quoted as under:

MODEL – 3M WTS28 Fully Automatic water softener system + 801F Pre-filter System

* UNIT PRICE Rs. 1,24,990.00

He did say that we could negotiate some discount? How much is possible?

Finalised at 1,19,000 including 5 micron filter and 200 kgs salt tablets. 6 complimentary visits free with 1 year AMC. Including transportation and plumbing (labour) charges

[IM_PARTHRATHOD]

Originally Posted by Guite

A friend of a friend wants to add one more floor to an existing, 60 year old, ground floor structure. The existing walls are between 12" to 16" thick brick and roof is concrete. Is it safe? What precautions, if any, should he take?

1. Dig a square pit of 4ft by 4ft and dig till you reach the hard strate.
2. Check the old plans for footings and foundation structure. If the structure is present then check the structural plans for the height and width of the column and other ground beams if laid.
3. As said the existing structure the 60 years old then iam sure it will be a load bearing structure I.E all the load of the concrete slab will be on the thick side walls.
4. Escalate the sides of the house to see if there is any underground supporting structure like black rock wall also known as Rubble Masonry. If that is present then consult a local structural engineer.
5. If none of the structure are found then one has to demolish the house and get a new structure erected as per the new bylaws of the particular state and new designing can happen.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by IM_PARTHRATHOD

1. Dig a square pit of 4ft by 4ft and dig till you reach the hard strate.
2. Check the old plans for footings and foundation structure. If the structure is present then check the structural plans for the height and width of the column and other ground beams if laid.
3. As said the existing structure the 60 years old then iam sure it will be a load bearing structure I.E all the load of the concrete slab will be on the thick side walls.
4. Escalate the sides of the house to see if there is any underground supporting structure like black rock wall also known as Rubble Masonry. If that is present then consult a local structural engineer.
5. If none of the structure are found then one has to demolish the house and get a new structure erected as per the new bylaws of the particular state and new designing can happen.

Another solution is what many have done for old houses :

. Erect columns at four corners and then every 4m in between and at least 20 cm above the existing roof.

. If the house is more than 10m wide then at least one column in centre is needed.

. Now construct beams to join all the column tops. The beams should ideally be just under the terrace to support it.

. Fill the gap between beams and terrace and let the concrete set.

Now you have a frame structure to support higher floors, as well as retain your old roof slab.

a) Get a civil engineer design the columns and beams.

b) Design the frame structure to support at least 4 floors (future proof).

c) You have the option of retaining the existing walls or replacing them with thinner walls (6" instead of 16").

[Newpunter]

Originally Posted by earthian

Finalised at 1,19,000 including 5 micron filter and 200 kgs salt tablets. 6 complimentary visits free with 1 year AMC. Including transportation and plumbing (labour) charges

Does this include the pump necessary for regeneration (assuming you are installing the plant before the water tank)? I talked to the 3M team last week and they quoted 1.25 Lakhs for the same setup, including the pump. So maybe I have to negotiate more .

Did you talk to any other companies before finalizing 3M, or was it your only choice? We are planning to talk to Kent, ZeroB and another local company before finalizing.

Kent is very cheap compared to 3M, but after my experience using their water purifier, I would prefer not having anything to do with Kent again.