[fhdowntheline]

Originally Posted by Sebring

They cover the floor these days before painting. Ours was done to perfection. Even dust is sucked in by their scrapers (Plz pardon the Low res pic shared by contractor)

So tiles first is what you are saying effectively.Re tiling is indeed a messy business and is almost a necessity in places like Pune with the huge difference in temperatures. Having said that, my parents live in a 35 year old building with zero maintenance on tiling/ flooring and no wall cracks/creases. Everything there appears to be made with atleast two brick layers.

[whencut86]

Originally Posted by fhdowntheline

Folks,
I have a simple question. I need to redo my floor tiles as well as repaint my flat. Which should be done first? I am told that tiles should be done first, but not entirely convinced because there could be paint smears om them afterwards.

I have recently completely redone an apartment I purchased. Painting will be done finally only since the putty, scrapping and final coats will cover the skirting marks from tile laying and all the cement marks or dirt marks on the walls from laying tiles.

1. Current tiles will be demolished.
2. Floor levelling will be done.
3. New tiles will be laid.
4. Contractors generally cover the tiles with gypsum/POP if any other civil work is to be done in apartment.
5. At the time of painting the gypsum will be removed and grouting/epoxy filling will be done on tiles post which the painting process will start.

A round of deep cleaning will be done post painting and the paint marks in the tiles will be scrapped from the tiles with a plate and some liquid and this wont affect the tiles no create any marks on the tiles.

Removing paint smears on the tiles is easier than painting first and then doing putty work and painting again after tiles are laid.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Flood prevention hump

Various changes to the inside and outside have rendered our water prevention bump ineffective in the kind of super-heavy rain that has become expected rather than exceptional. We cannot go any higher without being unable to drive over it (raising existing design by a couple of inches or so) so the next step is to rebuild the pillars and rehang the gate.

But... does anybody know the secret to designing the hump to allow the car to pass over it safely?

I was chucked out of the maths class at school: it's beyond me! <Blush>

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Flood prevention hump

But... does anybody know the secret to designing the hump to allow the car to pass over it safely?

Increase the length of the hump?

Increase the floor height after the hump and make it like a ramp?

Increasing the height of the car parking area itself?

How about going to the next level and installing a flood barrier that you could raise when you sense water is going to enter and lower otherwise?

Possibilities are there, but I am not sure what your current implementation is and what are the limitations

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by audioholic

Increase the length of the hump?

Increase the floor height after the hump and make it like a ramp?

Yes! And that is where the question begins.

We know the height we require.
We know the space available to the road edge.
the space inside is much more flexible.

How to calculate the exact shape so that the car passes it safely?

The method, I've been living with for years. It's the maths that baffles.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Yes! And that is where the question begins.
How to calculate the exact shape so that the car passes it safely?

The method, I've been living with for years. It's the maths that baffles.

For a car to not scrape a tall hump, the length of the hump in driving direction must be slightly longer than the wheelbase of the car. Hence it might sound impractical for doing this half way into your house and the other half on the road. So once the front wheel finishes the hump and begins descending, the rear wheel should have climbed or started to climb the hump. This will prevent the underbody from scraping. For the front to not scrape, this is where approach angle comes into picture.

Considering all this, if you want something like a one feet high hump, that's still going to create a small hill . So I would suggest looking at other options considering one feet of height isn't enough for the flooding you are expecting. Otherwise you really have to build a humongous hill at the entrance of your property and then might end up featuring in news channels.

Instead get a water tight gate designed and installed. That might look better and not catch too much of attention. The sad part at least in Bangalore is that when new tar is laid, they do it on top of the existing layer and do not try to recover the existing asphalt and relay it. This increases road height over time and you can never consider any sort of hump kind of barrier to prevent it. Hope someday the officials realise what a stupid plan it is

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Yes! And that is where the question begins.

We know the height we require.
We know the space available to the road edge.
the space inside is much more flexible.

How to calculate the exact shape so that the car passes it safely?

The method, I've been living with for years. It's the maths that baffles.

A slope of 1:5 is good enough. If you want a height of 1m then the approach and departing slopes will be 5+5 = 10m or 30 feet. Ideal shape is a parabola, but circular shape will do.

[carboy]

My home has 2 bathrooms & a loft above the 2 bathrooms. It's a old home & the ceiling of the bathrooms (i.e. the intermediate ceiling between the bathrooms & the loft) started dropping - the guy I called said that it's because the iron rods inside must have got rusted. There were also cracks on a beam on the ceiling of the loft.

So they broke off all the cement/plaster on the bathroom ceiling & loft beam & then put some chemical on the bars (they called it polymer) & then recemented everything. He said to wait for a few weeks before painting it.

Now, I was wondering what kind of paint is needed for the bathroom ceilings? Will a whitewash/regular paint do or it need to be some plastic/oil paint? I am asking because the bathroom is a moist/wet place - so will whitewashing/regular paint be good enough or will I have go for a more expensive paint?

Also, how long can I leave it unpainted? I have some more repairs to be done in the home over a few months & I want to do all painting at the end. Will there be any issues with the plaster if I leave it unpainted for some time.

This is what it looks like



Also the loft beam itself - is it necessary to paint it at all or can I leave it cemented just like that? I mostly will get it painted along with everything else - but I am just curious - are there technical reasons to paint over the cement?

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Aroy

A slope of 1:5 is good enough. If you want a height of 1m then the approach and departing slopes will be 5+5 = 10m or 30 feet. Ideal shape is a parabola, but circular shape will do.

Thanks again! the husband of a friend of my wife (acupuncturist!) said he'd be happy to visit and give us some advice on this and any other related issue*. He's also an acupuncturist, and yes, I did at first wonder how much help this would be, until Mrs G explained that his day job is civil engineering


*entirely on a neighbour/friendship basis, which is nice.

[earthian]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Thanks again! the husband of a friend of my wife (acupuncturist!) said he'd be happy to visit and give us some advice on this and any other related issue*. He's also an acupuncturist, and yes, I did at first wonder how much help this would be, until Mrs G explained that his day job is civil engineering

There is a saying about not looking a gift horse in the mouth.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Indeed. I'm very grateful

[IM_PARTHRATHOD]

Originally Posted by abhinav.s

How good is the sound insulation of AAC blocks? As in if used as a partition wall in the house, does it insulate the sound to an extent or will it transfer most of it? Asking coz if the kitchen and bedroom share a wall (which typically owing to Vastu we end up doing it), it would be a royal pain to hear the water in the sink/mixer running when you are a later riser while the family wants to go about their usual routines.

The sound insulation is really good in 9'' and 8'' blocks. 6'' and 4'' are not so much. I suggest that you use atleast 8'' blocks so the sound insulation is not that much and one can go do their regular routine inside the house.

Originally Posted by locusjag

Thanks for writing in! Much appreciated.

Speaking of superior insulation with AAC blocks, there are even YouTube videos showing a blowtorch being used on a AAC block versus a brick; the AAC block doesn't pass on the heat from one end to the other unlike a red brick despite the stupendously high heat involved.


In my research, there was mention of a special type of screw that they use to set up cupboards off of walls made with AAC blocks. I guessed that they're referring to screws that fan out upon penetration of the wall and anchor in place (those screws are used to hang structures off of plaster walls that homes in the US are typically made of).

The heat insulation is superb and the video that you was proves it. Coming back to the screw and holding something onto the AAC blocks, one can use self priming screws which can be atlest 4 inches long so that it can hols the cupboards and the vanities else you can use wall fastners as well for better attachment but they tend to be on a costly side.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Aroy

A slope of 1:5 is good enough. If you want a height of 1m then the approach and departing slopes will be 5+5 = 10m or 30 feet. Ideal shape is a parabola, but circular shape will do.

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Thanks again! the husband of a friend of my wife (acupuncturist!) said he'd be happy to visit and give us some advice...

Well, it really was without obligation, but, none the less, we are giving him the jobs of rebuilding the gate pillars, increasing height, also adjoining compound wall; design and building of the hump/slopes; rehanging gate accordingly.

As I have mentioned before, we have talked about several schemes, and had recently become quite enthusiastic about raising the house, although my enthusiasm was tempered with fear . Another member had suggested prioritising keeping the water out. That is the short to medium term answer, and this limited build will be hugely cheaper than such a project.

[JMaruru]

Originally Posted by FURY_44

I have applied 2 coats of FOSROC Brushbond RFX on my terrace for waterproofing and finished it off with 2 coats of Damp Proof Advanced, so far it's looking good, will need to review on a long term basis.

Is this 'FOSROC Brushbond' prerequisite for 2 coats of the 'Damp Proof Advanced'?

I need to paint my cement concrete slope roof, which was covered by brick tiles earlier. Had to remove them as falling coconuts used to break them.

What is the difference between 'Damp Proof' and 'Damp Proof Advanced'?
How is 'Damp Proof Advanced' holding up during rains? Does it get affected by foot traffic?

Please advise.

[JMaruru]

Originally Posted by JMaruru

Is this 'FOSROC Brushbond' prerequisite for 2 coats of the 'Damp Proof Advanced'?

I need to paint my cement concrete slope roof, which was covered by brick tiles earlier. Had to remove them as falling coconuts used to break them.

What is the difference between 'Damp Proof' and 'Damp Proof Advanced'?
How is 'Damp Proof Advanced' holding up during rains? Does it get affected by foot traffic?

Please advise.

Could any others help me with some advise.

Does slope roof warrant Dr. Fixit? As of now, there are NO prominent leakages BUT some dampness where water collects during rains.

So, wanted to go for either 'Damp Proof' OR 'Damp Proof Advanced' from Asian Paints.