[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by sach.sri

What is this L5 reset - and how can it be done? Can i do it myself or will i have to goto the A.S.S for getting it done?

The precise details of how to perform L-5, after tyre rotation or otherwise.

[cnaganathan]

Here are my issues with my White SLE which has now done 40k kms and is 2 years old.

1. Clutch slave cylinders changed twice under warranty and entire clutch assembly changed once under warranty.

2. Rear wheel bearings changed (under warranty) after a botched up 35k service.

Now with the vehicle sent for 40k service following issues are to be addressed

1. Coolant leak at the firewall - seems to be the hose that is used by the Aircon for heater mode.

2. Power steering hose leak

3. Repeated blow out of Fog lamp bulb

4. Blistered head lamp glasses

5. Gear Stick that will put a rattle snake to Shame

6. Bad clutch - again

Estimated bill - 11k!!!!

[m_upreti]

Facing a major problem with the door handles this monsoons.

First the drivers side door refused to open from outside, initially it was opening after a couple of locks / unlocks with the remote, after that opening using the key manually and then finally from inside only.

Since today morning the driver door is fine and now the rear right passenger door is struck.

Any DIY suggested as I am not finding the time or the inclination to visit the workshop in these heavy rains.

[n.devdath]

Originally Posted by m_upreti

Any DIY suggested as I am not finding the time or the inclination to visit the workshop in these heavy rains.

Try spraying WD 40 inside them and lubricate the hinges too. That should help.

[hvkumar]

Originally Posted by m_upreti

Facing a major problem with the door handles this monsoons.

First the drivers side door refused to open from outside, initially it was opening after a couple of locks / unlocks with the remote, after that opening using the key manually and then finally from inside only.

Since today morning the driver door is fine and now the rear right passenger door is struck.

Any DIY suggested as I am not finding the time or the inclination to visit the workshop in these heavy rains.

Originally Posted by n.devdath

Try spraying WD 40 inside them and lubricate the hinges too. That should help.

I have the same problem. Sprayed WD40 in the inside of the handle & through the gap in the latch, it cleared up the rust & is working fine. NO need to visit workshops & pay a bomb - just take a WD40 can & do it yourself.

[desertfox]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

The precise details of how to perform L-5, after tyre rotation or otherwise.

Attachment 1115124

This whole gizmo is highly inaccurate, I dont trust the Scorpios tyre pressure system at all, a pretty worthless exercise if indulged in I would say.

The offset is as high as 5 to 6 psi at any given time. And that's a lot.

[cnaganathan]

How many of you have had to change a leaky Power Steering hose in your vehicle? My MASS tells me that 40k kms and 2years is reasonable and that it is not covered by warranty. Moreover it costs 2.3k + Oil + Labor to change

On the contrary, for my Indigo XL which was with me for close to 50k kms and over 2.5 years, I never had a problem with the power steering

[ramkya1]

My 2 yr old Mhwak, 30 K kms, has developed starting problems. Typical pattern, repeated cranks, engine not firing, open bonnet, manually press the plunger on the Diesel pump 5-10 times, crank and it starts. The first incident started 45days back, which I connected to post-fuelling, so had to be bad fuel. The problem would suddenly occur out of the blue, open bonnet do the routine and it would start, happened almost 5-6 times. ASC said tank needs cleaning, we'll do it after a long trip due to shortage of time.

On my North India run recently, I used acetone based additive, did not have the problem AT ALL for 10 days, fuel from different places in North, thought problem got resolved. Started filling fuel at Ahmedabad, no additives & things were OK. On 19th, 23rd and today morning it re-appeared but started with the routine.

Took it to the ASC, they say the Bosch pump unit is electronic now, has to be replaced, about 7-8 K for a new one!!! They also said no warranty as usually it's bad fuel. I am trying with my contacts to see that this is replaced without a big cost to me. The questions:

1. Can bad fuel permanently damage the fuel pump?
2. Can it not be repaired by Bosch?
3. Cleaning the tank is also recommended by the ASC, will this alone not work?
4. How to ensure the fuel you get is non-adulterated ? Never had the problem in the Crde, have filled fuels form remote places in India.
5. Is the MhWAK more sensitive to fuel because of the change in Pump? I think the Crde has a different type of Bosch Pump.
5. Anybody faced similar problems in Scorpio or other diesels?

Thanks in advance for your inputs.

--Ramky
=====

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by cnaganathan

How many of you have had to change a leaky Power Steering hose in your vehicle? My MASS tells me that 40k kms and 2years is reasonable ....

Heh heh, they don't make 'em like mine anymore!
Aug2006 2.6 CDRe 4WD.
The only thing changed in year 5 was the starter motor for Rs.6000/- at the FNG.

[1100D]

Originally Posted by desertfox

This whole gizmo is highly inaccurate, I dont trust the Scorpios tyre pressure system at all, a pretty worthless exercise if indulged in I would say.

The offset is as high as 5 to 6 psi at any given time. And that's a lot.

I do find it very useful, without relying on accuracy. It does tell my if any tyre is loosing air, without having to indulge in a routine air-fill exercise to bring about the bad news (as is with my other cars).

Besides this, in somecases, I can time my tyre repair based on how much the tyre in question is loosing over a day or period.

One more thing, this TPMS had indicated full tyre blow out in offroad condition, which I would have not found out easily given that the soil was soft and I was anyway running deflated.

So accuracy apart, TPMS is definitely a boon.

[ramkya1]

@ cnaganathan: 4 years of Crde + 2 years of Mhwak no Power Steering problems, not even a whisper.

@1100D: I agree, Gizmo locked on to a faulty valve on Rear Right quickly, it also flashed that my Front Right was very low, loosing air had a nail, got it out and plugged it. When I switch it on, wait for it to do one round of tyre check, gives you reassurance to see air is OK. The readings are inaccurate by 3-4 points, I fill air only in one place and have calibrated the errors by now.

@ Anupjji: You are the lucky one.

--Ramky
=====

[m_upreti]

Originally Posted by n.devdath

Try spraying WD 40 inside them and lubricate the hinges too. That should help.

Originally Posted by hvkumar

I have the same problem. Sprayed WD40 in the inside of the handle & through the gap in the latch, it cleared up the rust & is working fine. NO need to visit workshops & pay a bomb - just take a WD40 can & do it yourself.

Thanks Devdath, HVK,
Since the driver door is self healed now (and transferred the issue to the passenger door) and the passenger door is not a high priority will do this over the weekend

[desertfox]

Originally Posted by 1100D

I do find it very useful, without relying on accuracy. It does tell my if any tyre is loosing air, without having to indulge in a routine air-fill exercise to bring about the bad news (as is with my other cars).

Besides this, in somecases, I can time my tyre repair based on how much the tyre in question is loosing over a day or period.

One more thing, this TPMS had indicated full tyre blow out in offroad condition, which I would have not found out easily given that the soil was soft and I was anyway running deflated.

So accuracy apart, TPMS is definitely a boon.

THis part is fine, it can indicate whether there is low air pressure in one of the tyres, otherwise i would have thrown it off my Scorpio long ago.

[sach.sri]

Originally Posted by 1100D

I do find it very useful, without relying on accuracy. It does tell my if any tyre is loosing air, without having to indulge in a routine air-fill exercise to bring about the bad news (as is with my other cars).

Besides this, in somecases, I can time my tyre repair based on how much the tyre in question is loosing over a day or period.

One more thing, this TPMS had indicated full tyre blow out in offroad condition, which I would have not found out easily given that the soil was soft and I was anyway running deflated.

So accuracy apart, TPMS is definitely a boon.

Originally Posted by ramkya1

@1100D: I agree, Gizmo locked on to a faulty valve on Rear Right quickly, it also flashed that my Front Right was very low, loosing air had a nail, got it out and plugged it. When I switch it on, wait for it to do one round of tyre check, gives you reassurance to see air is OK. The readings are inaccurate by 3-4 points, I fill air only in one place and have calibrated the errors by now.


--Ramky
=====

I agree. It is quite a useful indicator, has helped me in couple of instances where i had minor punctures and the air was leaking out slowly, i could see the difference in the readings and take corrective action! Once, i did not have time to get a puncture fixed for 1 week and could survive by getting air filled in the tyre based on TPMS readings.

Also - i dont think that it is very inaccurate. 3-4 PSI deviation is there, but i have noticed that if i get it checked in the mornings, it is pretty consistent.

Also - the other good thing that TPMS provides is the tyre temperature! So we can know if the temp is getting too high and take corrective action.

I rely on this - and religiously keep an eye on the readings everytime i start the Scorp.


On this note - can one of you guys look at the temp shown after about 10-12 km running. I recently started using Nitrogen in the tyre and noticed that the tyre temp was showing 43-44 in all 4 tyres. Per my earlier exp - on air - it used to show 37-38. But i might be wrong - so asking for corroboration, either ways - air or nitrogen.

Originally Posted by desertfox

This whole gizmo is highly inaccurate, I dont trust the Scorpios tyre pressure system at all, a pretty worthless exercise if indulged in I would say.

The offset is as high as 5 to 6 psi at any given time. And that's a lot.

Well this is your POV. I would not debunk it, from my perspective - this is VERY useful device and helps in maintaining the tyres better using the readings and also the warnings from the sensor.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by ramkya1

......
1. Can bad fuel permanently damage the fuel pump?
2. Can it not be repaired by Bosch?
.......
5. Is the MhWAK more sensitive to fuel because of the change in Pump? I think the Crde has a different type of Bosch Pump.

.....

Ramky, bad fuel cannot cause permanent damage to the high pressure fuel pump.
Bosch should be able to service the pump, though I firmly believe that it would not be needed.
There is some other problem, much smaller than a major parts failure.
It seems that some non-return valve in the fuel line is not holding tight, thereby necessitating use of the manual plunger for a successful start.

There is a possibility of an injector or two also 'leaking/dripping' a wee bit; not permitting the HP line to remain pressurized during standing periods.

Please get a systematic check up done, preferably at a Bosch service station, not at M&M.

Cleaning the fuel tank should not be required for a two year old car!
Bad fuel is usually 'chemically' unsound; it seldom contains debris and solid particles. Cleaning of a tank is needed when too much debris or sludge has collected in it.