[comfortablynumb]

Originally Posted by Wolfheart

Hi Vikram, Yes it is an Mhawk. In fact it was the service rep at Mahindra (Wakad) who told me that the air filter shold have been replaced at 20k kms. If it's indeed 40k then my SC is not to be blamed.

Okay. IIRC, the manual says that if your driving is in very dusty conditions, then you should change the air filter at 20k. If it's normal city/highway driving, then 40k is fine. In fact, the filter itself has an indicator which will tell you if it needs to be changed or not. There's also a sticker on it which mentions the change interval.

EDIT: My SLE is also nearing 36k kms, and the air filter hasn't been changed yet.

Cheers,
Vikram

[n.devdath]

Originally Posted by sudipta

By any chance did you check how they connected the laptop to the car and what softwares did they use?

The laptop is connected using a COM port located near the steering column below the steering wheel. The SW used is M&M proprietory SW which connects to the ECU and checks for errors based on the codes generated and then suggests possible areas of error and troubleshooting steps.

[ssadwelkar]

Scorpio 2007 SLX Clutch and mountings replaced.


My car is 5 years old and strictly one owner driven and done only 41000 kms, I am not in
the habit of riding the clutch pedal but somehow the clutch had got worn out, I could feel the car shudder while releasing the clutch in stop and go traffic, early morning starts and after long drives.

Also recently I could feel the engine vibrations in the cabin while idling, I had got the engine mountings and the gearbox mounting checked recently by Sai service but the report given by the mechanic was that we have re-torqued the mountings there is no need to replace them.

I had to get the clutch replaced as soon as possible to avoid a break down in the middle of the road as the shudder was scaring me, so took an appointment at G3 Motors, Malad, the appointment was after 20 days.

On the day of the appointment I drove to G3 Motors upon parking the vehilce in the garage the security guard comes hurriedly to me and tells me "Saab, ab Scorpio ka kam yahan pe nahi hota." but I said "meri appointment hai idhar", then comes another gentleman saying the workshop for Scorpios has been moved to a new location near Oberoi Mall at Goregaon, I asked why I was not informed earlier that it has been moved to a new location, he says messages were sent out to all customers about the move, I said I did not receive any message. He says sir, please take your vehicle to this new location and he roughly gave me the location of the new place and telephone number. I eventually found the place after driving around for some time, it seems they had moved to the new location just a couple of days back and were not completely setup, there is still some construction work going, the place is not very big but fortunately there wasnt much rush.

Anyway coming back to the main point, they completely overhauled the clutch, replaced the clutch plate, pressure plate, flywheel and the bearing, I had specifically told them to replace the engine mountings and the gearbox mountings even if they looked good so they replaced them too, I had also told them to drain the old cooloant, flush the radiator and add new coolant as it was 5 years old, all this cost me 29155 with parts and labour.

I got the delivery of the car last night, and I would like to mention that the clutch is really smooth now, the gear shift too has become effort less, and the cabin vibration while idling is not noticeable anymore.

Replacing the mountings has made a big improvement in reducing the vibration considerably in the cabin while idling.

[asdfvinay]

2005 Scorpio CRDe Clutch Shudder

I have a 2005 Scorpio CRDe with 87k on the odo and still on the original clutch. On taking the car out yesterday, clutch felt easier and softer than normal. I could press the clutch with say 75% of my normal effort. Then I thought it might just be my feeling and neglected it used the vehicle yesterday normally.

I check this thread for new posts everyday and SSADWELKAR's post caught my attention as I thought this is probably my situation too.

If I recollect properly, the car started shuddering a little(very little and not always) since a week. Initially I thought this could be because of air filter or fuel system, but now I think it is time to replace the clutch. I asked them to replace clutch last time as it was hard, but they insisted that I use it as long as it lasts and seems like it is now time.

Is this soft clutch and shudder an indication to replace the clutch? There is no slip in the vehicle. Shudder started since a week or 10 days and the clutch has become a little softer since yesterday.

If I have to replace the clutch, do I have a weeks time(say another 250kms) or should I stop using the car and take it straight to the ASS? As my other car is also at ***, next week is when I will be comfortable to send the Scorpio for clutch replacement.

[agbenny]

Break failure:

Friends,

On Sunday, suddenly the break failed but fortunately, I was in low speed and there was no traffic. I managed to stop the vehicle by God's grace.
I found the pedal was going in freely, but worked 10%, but when the car reaches to 0KMPS, the break totally went down. I didn't go for a hill drive for months, and the driving was as usual within city limits. No unusual breaking. Also, I did my 35000 service only last month.

But, I stopped the engine, and restarted twice, an found the break working again, so, I was able to come back to car - with a fear in mind, I came home slowly.

I've given the vehicle for checking, and they find everything fine after the test drive, However I asked them to give a full inspection. Could anyone let me know what caused this one-time break failure. I do not want to get into this trouble again with some mistakes existing within the break assembly.

I wish I get a check list to ask the A.S.S to check fully. Thanks.

[hvkumar]

Originally Posted by agbenny

Break failure:

Friends,

On Sunday, suddenly the break failed but fortunately, I was in low speed and there was no traffic. I managed to stop the vehicle by God's grace.
I found the pedal was going in freely, but worked 10%, but when the car reaches to 0KMPS, the break totally went down. I didn't go for a hill drive for months, and the driving was as usual within city limits. No unusual breaking. Also, I did my 35000 service only last month.

But, I stopped the engine, and restarted twice, an found the break working again, so, I was able to come back to car - with a fear in mind, I came home slowly.

I've given the vehicle for checking, and they find everything fine after the test drive, However I asked them to give a full inspection. Could anyone let me know what caused this one-time break failure. I do not want to get into this trouble again with some mistakes existing within the break assembly.

I wish I get a check list to ask the A.S.S to check fully. Thanks.

Have the Booster, Master Cylinder, Vaccum pump & vacuum pipes checked thoroughly.

If they are found OK, have the rear brake cylinders also checked for leaks & proper working

[4x4addict]

Originally Posted by agbenny

Could anyone let me know what caused this one-time break failure. I do not want to get into this trouble again with some mistakes existing within the break assembly.

As hvkumar said, it is most likely an issue with the booster system of the brakes. If it was an issue with rotor/caliper/drum etc, the brakes fails slowly and dosn't get right without repair.

The most likely culprit is your brake booster or the vacum pump from the alternator to the booster. As a precautionary measure check/change the vacuum hoses from vacuum pump to boost. As them to check the vacuum pump and booster also.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by agbenny

...suddenly the break failed but fortunately, I was in low speed and there was no traffic. I managed to stop the vehicle by God's grace.
I found the pedal was going in freely, but worked 10%...

Vacuum booster valve sticking. Probably dust accumulation. Have them clean the booster unit with a high pressure AIR hose.

[hvkumar]

Originally Posted by 4x4addict

As hvkumar said, it is most likely an issue with the booster system of the brakes. If it was an issue with rotor/caliper/drum etc, the brakes fails slowly and dosn't get right without repair.

The most likely culprit is your brake booster or the vacum pump from the alternator to the booster. As a precautionary measure check/change the vacuum hoses from vacuum pump to boost. As them to check the vacuum pump and booster also.

One simple test to check if the booster has failed.

With the engine off, pump the brake pedal till it becomes hard.
Keep your foot pressed on the hard pedal.
Start the engine.
The moment the engine starts, the brake pedal should go in (since vacuum gets into the system)
If the pedal does not go in or goes in with a delay, there is a problem with the vacuum pump or the booster.

In the 300,000 kms that I have run my Scorpio, I have changed the Brake Booster/Master Cylinder twice and also replaced all the rubber vacuum system pipes. Vacuum pump is still the same original.

[CasperRider]

A strange problem re-appeared again. Every morning before I start the engine, the brake pedal is very hard and cannot press( I normally start the Engine with breaks pressed). Once the Engine starts, the pedal goes down. Scorp is at 46K KMs now. This issue had come up ~20K KMs, and the break modulators were replaced. This only happened if the beast is left idle for overnight or so and is inconsistent in reproducibility. I also feel the breaking ability has gone down slightly, though it may be physiological as I know there is something wrong. Any idea?

[m_upreti]

Originally Posted by CasperRider

A strange problem re-appeared again. Every morning before I start the engine, the brake pedal is very hard and cannot press( I normally start the Engine with breaks pressed). Once the Engine starts, the pedal goes down. Scorp is at 46K KMs now. This issue had come up ~20K KMs, and the break modulators were replaced. This only happened if the beast is left idle for overnight or so and is inconsistent in reproducibility. I also feel the breaking ability has gone down slightly, though it may be physiological as I know there is something wrong. Any idea?

Get the brakes blead and adjusted for play, that should take care of the issue.

One question after you switch off the vehicle for the night do you continue pressing the pedal after engine off, since the vehicle allows only 2 - 3 pumps in engine off condition, and as a result the pedal will be non operational before you start again in the morning.

[Real_man]

Hi All,

I need some expert opinion here for diagnosis of my issue.

I have a 2010 Mhawk SLE which done 50K. I can hear/feel a mild vibration kind of a sound at a particular position while turning the steering slowly to extreme left or right.

Yesterday took the Scorp for a scheduled servicing to G3 Nerul, got the car delivered in the evening confirming that nothing major identified. Somehow i am not convinced here, as per my past experience with Mahindra service centers the problems only gets resolved after multiple visits and an escalation to Mahindra Customer Care.

The Service advisor kept on insisting for engine de-carbonization and manifold cleaning - is this really recommended, somehow I did not go for it.

My fog lamps are vapouring up, I came to know that lamps go through stringent testings - if thats the case I wonder if this is covered under extended warranty

Thanks

[n.devdath]

Originally Posted by Real_man

I have a 2010 Mhawk SLE which done 50K. I can hear/feel a mild vibration kind of a sound at a particular position while turning the steering slowly to extreme left or right.

Does this happen at all speeds, even when the truck is at a standstill? Does it make a noise which can be heard outside the truck? Does your steering vibrate even when the truck goes on a rough patch of road? If yes, your steering column could be faulty, else it sounds like the tires are rubbing somewhere. What size of tires are you using?

Originally Posted by Real_man

The Service advisor kept on insisting for engine de-carbonization and manifold cleaning - is this really recommended, somehow I did not go for it.

My fog lamps are vapouring up, I came to know that lamps go through stringent testings - if thats the case I wonder if this is covered under extended warranty

Manifold cleaning can be done but engine de carbonisation is not required so early.

If the fog lights have water vapour inside them, they will be replaced under warranty unless they are cracked.

[asdfvinay]

Originally Posted by Real_man

Hi All,

I have a 2010 Mhawk SLE which done 50K. I can hear/feel a mild vibration kind of a sound at a particular position while turning the steering slowly to extreme left or right.

Thanks

If you are talking about the sound at the lock position(extreme right and extreme left), then that is normal and not an issue.

While stationary and idling, roll down the window and turn the steering to the extreme right/left and hold it there, you should hear some zzzzzzzzz kind of sound. If you turn one notch back, you will not hear it. Is this the sound you are talking about, if it is then it is normal and happens on both left and right extremes. I was told that some valve opens up at the exteme positions to pump oil to back to the line to reduce high pressure.

[m_upreti]

Hi, My OEM security system has stopped working suddenly, first the audio warnings stopped after the vehicle came back from A.S.S. after the Engine Check light issue, now the syatem has stopped working completely as I can just unlock and start with the key now.

Would be raising this to M&M tomorrow for sending the Nippon technician to my place.