[joybhowmik]

Originally Posted by wantarangerover

the oil lamp comes on.

Check oil level on dipstick. If too low, you may need to top-up and then monitor the consumption over a month or so.
Are you burning oil?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by wantarangerover

However, the car still has issues with low idling rpm on a hot engine.

Do you mean the idling rpm varies continuously? Can you just get the engineers at Ford check the idle settings for rpm and fueling? I guess it had been set low and leaner than required.

EDIT: Any error codes found while scanning the ECU?

Originally Posted by wantarangerover

On engaging the clutch, the engine stutters and almost shuts off. Also, in crawling traffic in 2nd gear, the engine coughs and stutters and almost stalls, so have to use 1st gear.

Crawling speeds, I suppose 0-15 kmph, Right?! At these speeds 1st gear is what is advised rather than 2nd be it a diesel or petrol powered car. Using the 2nd gear puts unnecessary load on the engine + transmission causing it to switch off.

Originally Posted by wantarangerover

In both situations, the oil lamp comes on.

Have you checked the oil level in the car now? What grade oil are you using? Is the pump working as it should?

Originally Posted by wantarangerover

Power windows would make the rpm go down - still holds true...

I doubt the working of the alternator since the battery is new. Hope the wiring is fine and no other electrical equipment is interfering during the usage of power windows.

When the engine is off, do the power windows operate normally? I mean the speed of movement and sound of the motor is ok or do they feel strained?

Anurag.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by wantarangerover

Thanks to all of those who replied! Well, I had two mechanics tell me the battery is shot and a new one should be fitted. I tried in vain to get Amaron as many dealers said they did not have the battery with the rating I wanted. So went with Bosch (which apparently uses same oem as amaron).

Now the cranking is much quicker, still take 3 cranks to startup, albeit very quick ones instead of the tired ones earlier. However, the car still has issues with low idling rpm on a hot engine. On engaging the clutch, the engine stutters and almost shuts off. Also, in crawling traffic in 2nd gear, the engine coughs and stutters and almost stalls, so have to use 1st gear. In both situations, the oil lamp comes on. And the last point in my previous post - that the power windows would make the rpm go down - still holds true...

I think you have at least, an electrical problem. It is not normal for the rpm to drop when you lower the window. Without this particular symptom I would say check out the idle valve or whatever Ford calls it these days (air bypass valve). This valve is the known culprit for similar problems on many Fords. Here is a little test. With the engine properly warmed up just disconnect it. Ie. pull the electrical connector.. If the problems disappears you have found the solution, replace or fix the valve.

I think the oil pressure lamp comes on due to the very low RPM, nothing else. if there was a serious problem with the oil pressure, you would know pretty quickly because it would lead to a pretty much catastrophic failure pretty quick!

Jeroen

[wantarangerover]

Thanks to all for the replies...

Originally Posted by joybhowmik

Check oil level on dipstick. If too low, you may need to top-up and then monitor the consumption over a month or so.
Are you burning oil?

Oil was changed with the battery replacement. So I think it is not an issue.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Do you mean the idling rpm varies continuously? Can you just get the engineers at Ford check the idle settings for rpm and fueling? I guess it had been set low and leaner than required.

EDIT: Any error codes found while scanning the ECU?

The rpm is not varying continuously. It just dips on engaging the clutch to very low levels, and on idling, that the oil lamp comes on. Haven't got a scan done, will check that out.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

I doubt the working of the alternator since the battery is new. Hope the wiring is fine and no other electrical equipment is interfering during the usage of power windows.

The alternator had conked off a year ago (due to ps fluid leaking on to it) and had it replaced with a refurb one. Maybe it is nearing its death..

Originally Posted by a4anurag

When the engine is off, do the power windows operate normally? I mean the speed of movement and sound of the motor is ok or do they feel strained?

There is not any diff. in the speeds with engine on/off. And the motor always sound strained to me, guess it is an ikon (ie., old gen car) trait?

Originally Posted by Jeroen

I think you have at least, an electrical problem. It is not normal for the rpm to drop when you lower the window. Without this particular symptom I would say check out the idle valve or whatever Ford calls it these days (air bypass valve). This valve is the known culprit for similar problems on many Fords. Here is a little test. With the engine properly warmed up just disconnect it. Ie. pull the electrical connector.. If the problems disappears you have found the solution, replace or fix the valve.

I think the oil pressure lamp comes on due to the very low RPM, nothing else. if there was a serious problem with the oil pressure, you would know pretty quickly because it would lead to a pretty much catastrophic failure pretty quick!

Jeroen

Sorry for the silly question, but where is the electrical connector?(near the fusebox?). Agree with you on the oil lamp thing. And the IAC valve has to be checked out, yes.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by wantarangerover

Sorry for the silly question, but where is the electrical connector?(near the fusebox?). Agree with you on the oil lamp thing. And the IAC valve has to be checked out, yes.

Find the IAC valve which should be somewhere attached to the inlet plumbing and look for the connector. Might be straight on the body of the IAC valve, if not follow the wires back untill you get to it
Good luck.
Jeroen

[ulhas.ahirrao]

I am facing starting problem for i10 Sportz, wondering what could be wrong? The car requires at-least 4 to 5 ignition attempts to start it. I use only shell fuel so it doesn't seem to be fuel problem. What could be the reason? Also the problem happens every time I start the car, even after running it for hours.

Mods: The starting problem thread was seen as parked, so was not sure whether I should post it there and hence opened a new thread.

[Ravindra M]

Originally Posted by ulhas.ahirrao

I am facing starting problem for i10 Sportz, wondering what could be wrong? The car requires at-least 4 to 5 ignition attempts to start it. I use only shell fuel so it doesn't seem to be fuel problem. What could be the reason? Also the problem happens every time I start the car, even after running it for hours.

Mods: The starting problem thread was seen as parked, so was not sure whether I should post it there and hence opened a new thread.

Looks like slow synchronization of crank and cam sensors during start up. You need to get it checked at Hyundai Service Station with diagnostic tool for any error codes. This is the easiest way out.

[Ravindra M]

Originally Posted by ulhas.ahirrao

I am facing starting problem for i10 Sportz, wondering what could be wrong? The car requires at-least 4 to 5 ignition attempts to start it. I use only shell fuel so it doesn't seem to be fuel problem. What could be the reason? Also the problem happens every time I start the car, even after running it for hours.

Mods: The starting problem thread was seen as parked, so was not sure whether I should post it there and hence opened a new thread.

Originally Posted by Ravindra M

Looks like slow synchronization of crank and cam sensors during start up. You need to get it checked at Hyundai Service Station with diagnostic tool for any error codes. This is the easiest way out.

@ulhas.ahirrao : Another thing you should check is the state of your battery. If it is old, it is not able to crank the engine to the desired speed in short time and starting is delayed. Kindly keep us posted.

[ulhas.ahirrao]

Originally Posted by Ravindra M

@ulhas.ahirrao : Another thing you should check is the state of your battery. If it is old, it is not able to crank the engine to the desired speed in short time and starting is delayed. Kindly keep us posted.

Thanks, this could be the reason as car is still running on stock battery which just completed four years in December. Four years is quiet a lot of time for battery isn't it?

[StrangeWizard]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Check the starter motor and alternator. Is the battery getting recharged or not!

Try this out - switch on the headlights and crank the engine. While craning observe the lights. If they don't to much then the battery is not good else you can tyke or the battery.

Be since you say battery is new then have at the fuel pump. May be there is dirt on the fuel line that causing the car to jerk on starting.

Anurag.

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

What type of CNG kit are you using? Ask your CNG person to take a look about choked changeover valve / petrol settings.

Also check for an ignition (plug, cable) issue - loose contact, corrosion etc.

There could be a dozen reasons for this kind of behaviour.

Hi guys, sorry for the late update.

I hadn't driven my car on petrol for a long time and hence I just drove it petrol for around 10 kms. Now the problem has vanished and my Spark starts in the first crank even during early mornings.

CNG cars do require petrol to start up and it seems there wasn't enough petrol in the fuel line to reach the engine.

[S_U_N]

Our Zen 1996 carb model is refusing to start now. This happened after I carefully cleaned the engine bay with a hand sprayer. I too great care in avoiding the electrical points and other potential dicey areas, but somehow managed to get water inside somewhere where it should not have gone.

Now, the situation is that the battery is fine, the initial click sound of the relay is fine, the initial crank is fine, but nothing happens after.

I remember a few years ago a similar situation at the service center where the washing guy had used a pressure wash on the engine bay and the car refused to start after that.
He had removed some hose connection and removed some water from it.
Can anyone tell me where to look for that?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by S_U_N

Our Zen 1996 carb model is refusing to start now. This happened after I carefully cleaned the engine bay with a hand sprayer. I too great care in avoiding the electrical points and other potential dicey areas, but somehow managed to get water inside somewhere where it should not have gone.

Now, the situation is that the battery is fine, the initial click sound of the relay is fine, the initial crank is fine, but nothing happens after.

I remember a few years ago a similar situation at the service center where the washing guy had used a pressure wash on the engine bay and the car refused to start after that.
He had removed some hose connection and removed some water from it.
Can anyone tell me where to look for that?

Does the starter motor make any song while cranking?

I'm not sure to suggest but did you try a jump start?

Anurag

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by S_U_N

Our Zen 1996 carb model is refusing to start now...after I carefully cleaned the engine bay with a hand sprayer.

You have water in either the electricals (especially the distributor), or the air intake.

Remove the distributor cap and wipe the inside with a dry rag. Clean and dry the spark plug HT cables and ignition coil body.

Check the air filter box for water accumulation. Clean and dry. If the air filter appears moist, dry it or better still, replace with a new one.

Leave the car out in the sun with bonnet open for a day, and fingers crossed, it should start.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

You have water in either the electricals (especially the distributor), or the air intake.

Remove the distributor cap and wipe the inside with a dry rag. Clean and dry the spark plug HT cables and ignition coil body.

Check the air filter box for water accumulation. Clean and dry. If the air filter appears moist, dry it or better still, replace with a new one.

Leave the car out in the sun with bonnet open for a day, and fingers crossed, it should start.

After the cleaning and wiping what if jump start is tried?

Will that residual moisture affect anything?

Anurag

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

After the cleaning and wiping what if jump start is tried?

Will that residual moisture affect anything?

Anurag

If it starts you're good! any residual moisture will quickly evaporate as the engine heats up

If SS-Travellers suggestion don't get you the right result, there is one more thing you might want to try.

Your car is from 1996 and I assume none of the HT leads have been replaced yet? (the leads between the distributor and spark plugs and distributor and coil). These leads get porous over the years. And that means if there is moisture around, in your case due to the spraying, a lot of moisture gets absorbed into the leads and that's going to create problems.

Easy to test; at night when its dark, attempt to start the engine whilst at the same time spraying a thin film of water across these leads. If you see sparks, replace all the leads and the distributor cap for good measure

Good luck.

Jeroen