[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

That's a high quote for an i10. What make is the starter? MICO Bosch / Lucas both have authorized service centres specifically to repair starter motors, alternators etc. Go to one that has a starter motor test bench. I am presuming you are out of warranty.

AFAIK, the make is Bosch and yes I'm out if warranty.
I'll hunt around for their service centre with a test bench.
Thanks!

[Lobogris]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

- Get the A-pedal serviced / cleaned, preferably with an electrical contact cleaner spray.
- Have the petrol tank cleaned.

.

Why would these two items act up only when the car is hot and has been sitting off for more than say 20 minutes?

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by hrbheda

AFAIK, the make is Bosch and yes I'm out if warranty.
I'll hunt around for their service centre with a test bench.
Thanks!

Bosch dealers in Mumbai for your nearest address:
http://in.bosch-automotive.com/en/pa...heeler_parts_1
or call the Bosch toll-free helpline 1800 108 1081.

Originally Posted by Lobogris

Why would these two items act up only when the car is hot and has been sitting off for more than say 20 minutes?

Electronic and electrical contacts do act up when hot. And muck in the tank stuck to the suction-end filter can also do this. The muck tends to settle back overnight.

[Jaggu]

Can you check if all the sensors in the car are working aok, you might want to explain the problem in detail with the dealer mechanic (not Service advisor) and then convince him to check them, especially the ones on the engine. Seems like one of them is acting up since the starter and other parts seems to have beeen checked out.

Also a thorough check of fuelling and air intake side is recommended.

Do keep us posted.

[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Can you check if all the sensors in the car are working aok, you might want to explain the problem in detail with the dealer mechanic (not Service advisor) and then convince him to check them, especially the ones on the engine. Seems like one of them is acting up since the starter and other parts seems to have beeen checked out.

Also a thorough check of fuelling and air intake side is recommended.

Do keep us posted.

They hooked the car up to the OBD computer. Didn't find anything! They seem to think its something mechanical.
I'll have a chat with the actual mechanic along with the manager to figure something out.

[hrbheda]

Hey guys!

I had the starter opened and serviced. the greasing hadn't hardened and all the teeth on the flywheel and the starter were okay. The bolts were also tight (suggesting that it hadn't dismounted partially).

I did not get a chance to get it bench tested since the mechanic tested it on another i10 for about 10 days and kindly put a new one for me which he had ordered for another i10 for testing and put mine in the other car. I had the same problem as before. The other i10 didn't. When refitting my original one i had them put thread locking compound on the bolts and mark the head and the body with a marker for future reference. I had them clean the stater and then replace it with fresh grease.

Now I am completely puzzled as to what is causing this problem!!

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by hrbheda

Now I am completely puzzled as to what is causing this problem!!

Did you replace the cables to the starter motor?

[rahul4640]

In case your car has a "first inertia switch", please also give the rubber cap located in front of it a slight push to reset.

[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

Did you replace the cables to the starter motor?

No since the cables were in good condition. So was the plastic connector.Even fuse box side of the harness was in good condition. One earthing connector from the engine block side was slightly corroded and i had that replaced when the starter was out.

Originally Posted by rahul4640

In case your car has a "first inertia switch", please also give the rubber cap located in front of it a slight push to reset.

The shock sensor feature of my autocop was never installed since it used to make the alarm go off even at the slightest of vibrations in my previous car. The shock sensor was basically a first inertia switch which cut power to the starter and fuel pump in case it went off due to "shock".
It was a big hassle to start the car after a "decoy shock" so i didn't go in for it this time around.


If the car has one from the factory, I do not know.
If it does, where might it be located? And how do i check if indeed it is causing the problems?

[rahul4640]

Originally Posted by hrbheda

The shock sensor feature of my autocop was never installed since it used to make the alarm go off even at the slightest of vibrations in my previous car. The shock sensor was basically a first inertia switch which cut power to the starter and fuel pump in case it went off due to "shock".

I am not talking about any aftermarket products. They usually come factory fitted from the vehicle manufacturer.

Originally Posted by hrbheda

If the car has one from the factory, I do not know.
If it does, where might it be located? And how do i check if indeed it is causing the problems?

It should be located somewhere inside the cabin. Please check below the drivers seat or ask your service engineer. If it is causing the problem, gently pushing the cap of the switch once will reset the circuit and allow the car to start normally.

[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by rahul4640

It should be located somewhere inside the cabin. Please check below the drivers seat or ask your service engineer. If it is causing the problem, gently pushing the cap of the switch once will reset the circuit and allow the car to start normally.

I will. Will get back with more updates as I get them.
Thanks!

[RSR]

Originally Posted by hrbheda

Now I am completely puzzled as to what is causing this problem!!

I have one question.

When the problem occurs, does the engine immobiliser lamp on the instrument cluster keep blinking?

If it does, then you've isolated the problem. Since yours is a 2010 i10, I guess it does have a factory-fitted ECU-controlled engine immobiliser (not the Autocop one). Hyundai India made ECU-controlled engine immobilisers a standard feature on all their cars from 2009 onwards (not sure of the exact date, though).

Some i10s made in 2009 and 2010 are known have a problem with the immobiliser module's contacts. You can find more details here:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/i10-fo...-problems.html

It's possible that the jerk experienced while push-starting the car is enough to overcome the problem with the module's contacts, and start the car. It's not as if the module itself has gone kaput. If it did, then the car would simply not start at all by any method.

[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by RSR

I have one question.

When the problem occurs, does the engine immobiliser light on the instrument cluster keep blinking?

If it does, then you've isolated the problem. Since yours is a 2010 i10, I guess it does have a factory-fitted ECU controlled engine immobiliser (not the Autocop one). Hyundai India made ECU controlled engine immobilisers a standard feature on all their models from 2009 onwards (not sure of the exact date, though).

Some i10s made in 2009 and 2010 are known to exhibit this problem with the immobiliser module's contacts. You can find more details here:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/i10-fo...-problems.html

You are right, the ECU immobilizer was standard from 2010. I know this because i had a 2008 i10 which got stolen and that did not have the immobilizer.( Also,the key was different)

Yes i have a factory fitted immobilizer.
And no the light does not flash or stay on when giving it a self.
The light comes on when the key is in ignition on and goes off in about 10 seconds ( if no self is given ) and goes off immediately as you give a self before the light goes out automatically.

(FYI- there is no aftermarket immobilizer system of any kind; just the regular remote lock and unlock with siren)

[RSR]

Originally Posted by hrbheda

You are right, the ECU immobilizer was standard from 2010. I know this because i had a 2008 i10 which got stolen and that did not have the immobilizer.( Also,the key was different)

Sorry to hear about the theft of your earlier 2008-manufactured i10. The ECU-controlled immobiliser is a pretty decent theft deterrent and Hyundai should have made it a standard feature a few years earlier. Yes, the key is noticeably bulkier and only two keys are provided.

Originally Posted by hrbheda

And no the light does not flash or stay on when giving it a self.
The light comes on when the key is in ignition on and goes off in about 10 seconds ( if no self is given ) and goes off immediately as you give a self before the light goes out automatically.

Now we are back to square one.

So I understand that you've changed the spark plugs & coils, fuel filter, put in a new battery, checked the electrical connections, had the starter motor examined and even swapped it with a new one to rule it out as the cause of the problem. It's not caused by the known issue with the immobiliser module's contacts, either. And no diagnostic trouble codes are thrown up when you connect the car to a scanner.

This is baffling.

I'm now wondering if the intermittent starting is linked to some issue with the fuel line, injectors or fuel pump, perhaps. Have you got these examined?

Does the car behave completely normally otherwise? Do you notice any change in the way it idles and drives?

[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by RSR

Sorry to hear about the theft of your earlier 2008-manufactured i10.
======
Does the car behave completely normally otherwise? Do you notice any change in the way it idles and drives?

Yes the car behaves normally on all counts.
One question regarding idling - on a cold start, the engine revs to about 1000-1100 rpm for a few minutes as compared to the usual 700-800 rpm. Is that okay?
Except for the infamous steering rattle all is okay.

Generally when the car goes to the HASS for a service i tell them to do the injector and throttle body cleaning. I give the car to the HASS once a year since it ends up being quite expensive for no logical reason. Once they gave me a quote for about 1.5 lac for suspension, clutch, steering rack+EPS motor overhaul.(Mind you, my car has done only 32000 kms.)

Once it goes to my trusted local mechanic. He oversees the car like his own and his family has been looking after our cars for the past 35yrs!

Sorry went !
But i think yes the fuel system and injectors are the next suspects.
I had them inspect the fuel pump while the fuel filter was being changed - there was no apparent issue.