[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by stable rock

Hi, Is the issue sorted now? My Elantra have a similar issue and it is in the HASS now? For the same issue i had replaced the Smartra last year but of no use. Please update

Sorry for not updating earlier! Was busy with various things!

Coming to the point, it seems that my issue has been resolved. It hasn't occurred since all the cleaning was done.
Before you change any other part without confirmation please go through with the opening, cleaning and tight re-fitting process.

[RSR]

Originally Posted by hrbheda

Coming to the point, it seems that my issue has been resolved. It hasn't occurred since all the cleaning was done.

Glad to hear this! (Touchwood!)

I agree with hrbheda on this, stable rock.

Do not allow them to unnecessarily replace parts, especially if your car is out of warranty and you have to pay for the parts out of your own pocket.

In many cases, the issue can be resolved by merely removing, thoroughly cleaning the connectors, and re-fitting everything properly. Or it may be resolved by just re-programming your existing keys into the ECU (no need for new keys).

Only in rarer cases would it require the replacement of components. Even in such a case, it may only be a relatively inexpensive component like the antenna coil, instead of a more expensive one like the SMARTRA unit.

You may take a look at the workshop manual section for immobiliser related issues that was posted earlier. It was for an LHD Genesis Coupé, but it should be very similar for your RHD Elantra. In each trouble-shooting scenario, part replacement is only the last resort, after the other steps have been tried and didn't solve the issue. Here it is:

http://www.williamworley.com/genesis...r%20System.pdf

[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by RSR

In many cases, the issue can be resolved by merely removing, thoroughly cleaning the connectors, and re-fitting everything properly. Or it may be resolved by just re-programming your existing keys into the ECU (no need for new keys).

It seems the bad luck starts again!!
Today just about an hour back the exact same issue cropped up again.
I have called the HASS guys to my place and asked them to re-program the keys as the next step.
I am choosing to ignore the P1676 DTC which I got this time as well as last time since it relates to the smartra unit ( until all other methods mentioned previously fail to give positive results! )

[stable rock]

Originally Posted by hrbheda

It seems the bad luck starts again!!
Today just about an hour back the exact same issue cropped up again.
I have called the HASS guys to my place and asked them to re-program the keys as the next step.
I am choosing to ignore the P1676 DTC which I got this time as well as last time since it relates to the smartra unit ( until all other methods mentioned previously fail to give positive results! )

Hi,
I got back my car yesterday. The SMARTRA was replaced. This is the second time it i am replacing it. The reason given was that the SMARTRA was not fitted properly last time and due to that there was some damage to it.

[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by stable rock

Hi,
I got back my car yesterday. The SMARTRA was replaced. This is the second time it i am replacing it. The reason given was that the SMARTRA was not fitted properly last time and due to that there was some damage to it.

Can you share the cost of replacing the SMARTRA?
I'm facing an issue with reprogramming the keys. Will share the details once I understand what exactly they are trying to say.

[stable rock]

Originally Posted by hrbheda

Can you share the cost of replacing the SMARTRA?
I'm facing an issue with reprogramming the keys. Will share the details once I understand what exactly they are trying to say.

The SMARTRA unit was around Rs. 5800/-. I also ordered a new key before replacing SMARTA and still it was not solved. At last had no option and changed SMARTRA. The issue seemed to be sorted out now.

[phoenix7]

My Estilo has begun to give certain problems. A few days back while i was stuck in a traffic jam, cars ac began tripping, all lights on dash and stereo went off, however on certain acceleration it all became normal.
A few days later the same thing happened again! The car later on refused to start. I went to the battery guy, he says battery is fine , just a little discharged. The mechanic says alternator is okay and there are no issues. However again yesterday after I parked my car, it refused to start today. The issue is that whenever the car is 'start' but stays still for 20-25 minutes this issue pops up. I am totally confused. What could be the reason behind this Would appreciate your help.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by phoenix7

What could be the reason behind this

1. Battery voltage dropping under load - try a loaner battery first, replace battery if issue resolved.
2. Alternator output failure (AVR issue) when hot - check alternator output amps and voltage after long running followed by prolonged idling.

[phoenix7]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

1. Battery voltage dropping under load - try a loaner battery first, replace battery if issue resolved.

Thanks sir, the exide guys have taken my battery for examination and have put in a service battery. Lets see what results they come up with.

[oldshivabull]

Dear BHPIans,

This is my second post on Team BHP. I am new to your world and all thumbs with anything mechanical. And I have a very frustrating problem.

My car, a Fabia 1.2 petrol, starts only after I keep the key turned and hammer away with the accelerator a couple of times. And then it runs perfectly. Even after stopping, I can still start the car. But come the next day and the car needs the same treatment.

The battery's fine; I have replaced it recently. The fuel pump, injectors, all have been looked at and they are okay.

Can you please tell me how I can troubleshoot? My gut instinct is that something very simple is wrong, but I really don't know much about cars.

OR: Please guide me to a good mechanic.

Many thanks in advance

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by oldshivabull

Dear BHPIans,

This is my second post on Team BHP. I am new to your world and all thumbs with anything mechanical. And I have a very frustrating problem.

My car, a Fabia 1.2 petrol, starts only after I keep the key turned and hammer away with the accelerator a couple of times. And then it runs perfectly. Even after stopping, I can still start the car. But come the next day and the car needs the same treatment.

The battery's fine; I have replaced it recently. The fuel pump, injectors, all have been looked at and they are okay.

Can you please tell me how I can troubleshoot? My gut instinct is that something very simple is wrong, but I really don't know much about cars.

OR: Please guide me to a good mechanic.

Many thanks in advance

Looks like your fuel filter is choked, or the fuel is leaking from the fuel line back to the tank. So check the fuel filter and the fuel lines for accumulated dirt.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by oldshivabull

.

My car, a Fabia 1.2 petrol, starts only after I keep the key turned and hammer away with the accelerator a couple of times. And then it runs perfectly. Even after stopping, I can still start the car. But come the next day and the car needs the same treatment.

Couple of thoughts. Firstly, try and get it hooked up to a manufacturer specific OBD analyser to see if there are any error codes that could help.

These sort of problems can occur du to various faults/problems:
- Voltage drops during starting and the electronics go wonky. Check the battery voltage under starting conditions. Rule of thumb your voltage shouldnt drop under 10-11Volts druing starting. Any more and you have a faulty battery or maybe some very dirty/corroded electrical connections.
- Various sensors or the wiring have a problem. On the Skoda there are known problems with the coolant sensor giving sporadic false reading and that messes up the amount of fuel that gets injected during cold start. I seem to recall that not always this might result in an error code. It is a case of replacing the sensor and see what happens.
- Wonky crankshaft position sensor. Usually shows up as an error code
- Not a hundred precent sure on the Skodia, but on most petrol injection system the fuel system remains pressurirised all the way from the injectors back into various check valves built into various parts, sometime right inot the fuel tank. Loss of pressure in the fuel system during standstill might also means a tiny amount of air gets in and it will make starting difficult or at least you will have to keep the starter engaged for longer.

Jeroen

[oldshivabull]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Couple of thoughts. Firstly, try and get it hooked up to a manufacturer specific OBD analyser to see if there are any error codes that could help.

These sort of problems can occur du to various faults/problems:
- Voltage drops during starting and the electronics go wonky. Check the battery voltage under starting conditions. Rule of thumb your voltage shouldnt drop under 10-11Volts druing starting. Any more and you have a faulty battery or maybe some very dirty/corroded electrical connections.
- Various sensors or the wiring have a problem. On the Skoda there are known problems with the coolant sensor giving sporadic false reading and that messes up the amount of fuel that gets injected during cold start. I seem to recall that not always this might result in an error code. It is a case of replacing the sensor and see what happens.
- Wonky crankshaft position sensor. Usually shows up as an error code
- Not a hundred precent sure on the Skodia, but on most petrol injection system the fuel system remains pressurirised all the way from the injectors back into various check valves built into various parts, sometime right inot the fuel tank. Loss of pressure in the fuel system during standstill might also means a tiny amount of air gets in and it will make starting difficult or at least you will have to keep the starter engaged for longer.

Jeroen

Thank you.

Battery's been changed a month ago, and I had a mechanic who said he had looked at the fuel pump.

Now I need to find someone good enough to go through the checkpoints and OBD you recommend. Extremely tough finding a good mechanic in Gurgaon--and I have spent some time looking at BHP threads.

Thank you again, Jeroen.

[mkuruvil]

Well, I had this problem yesterday morning with my Chevy Spark 2007 model, and because of the bandh, I did not take it to the workshop. Drove it to the workshop today morning and they are now working on it. I had to pump gas while simultaneously turning the ignition to get it started. It would die out if I stopped moving. But as long as I moved (even ever so little), it would not die. I had to restart it a great many times to reach the workshop. The worst was when approaching the KR Puram Railway Station ...

There had been an issue where the coolant was not visible from outside in its reservoir. The car had been having this problem since 2014 december, I was asked to bring it in as soon as possible for repairs, but since I use it to drop and pick up kids, I never got around to doing it. I saw that the temp gauage never went below mid level and thought it was ok.

I had been getting the smell of petrol recently and the ac had stopped putting out cool air recently.

The service advisor blames my inattention to the coolant problem and has told me to brace for the worst. What IS the worst? (And how much will it cost me?) I went online and read someplace that for some guy, the mechanic could not find the cause for this. Is that possible? I can't drive around in a car which does not idle and buying a new car would put a serious stress in my already weak finances. But I need a car because of the kids ...

[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by hrbheda

Will share the details once I understand what exactly they are trying to say.

Sorry for getting back so very late! Was busy with various exams and work related stuff!

When I went to the ASS for getting the keys reprogrammed, The technician told me that until a specific key related code comes up on their G-Scan, they cannot re program the keys since the code needed to do so is given by the factory and the factory doesn't give the code unless there is a code or you actually purchase a new key. I was confused since this is the first time I'm hearing about such a procedure.

To cross-check, I called up another service centre and they too said the same thing regarding the keys. This second ASS was not even ready to diagnose the problem systematically. They were more into - " We will scan and report accordingly." Even after explaining the whole problem for over and hour they weren't ready to do it.
Surprisingly being only a Hyundai ASS, they also service all kinds of makes and models!

I let the issue go for the time being since this non-start issue came up only once after the cleaning and re-fitting process and has not occurred since (touchwood!!).