[amitk26]

Saurabh engine flight flush does one Job that is to inflate the bit. Try system D + or some other injector cleaner first. They are given in the users manual and you can buy them at TASS.
If the problem persists it is time to claim warranty on injectors but of the vehicle is out of warranty then get the injectors cleaned outside.

For healthy life of engine and catcon you should drive at 80 -100 kmph occasionally that is after every 3-4 days

[saurabh2711]

Hi All,

Went to the TASS yesterday.
After inspection they say there is nothing wrong with injectors, Choking at 1500 RPM is normal & vary at different RPMs with different Safari models... Is this correct???? Do let me know if anyone thinks otherwise...

AS suggested (by AmitK26 & Many others) I asked for SystemD+, but was out of stock, & will be available on Monday. Will try using it & check for performance issues. If the issue persists I will be dropping a mail to Safari/Tata Customer Care to escalate the issue, as TASS seems not to be interested in addressing the issue. (My TASS is Auto Point, Wakad Pune.)

Thanks again everyone for your valuable feedback.

Thanks,
Saurabh.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by saurabh2711

... After inspection they say there is nothing wrong with injectors, Choking at 1500 RPM is normal & vary at different RPMs with different Safari models ...

Nonsense! Had that been the case there would have been a hue and cry across. There is nothing metaphysical about an engine that can't be explained. Please ask them what is happening at that time that causes the choking, and why is it at different RPM for different models. You will be met with a stony silence - they have no clue.

[richie4u]

Hi guys, I want to voluntarily change the battery of my Safari, so which brand do you guys suggest. I have the OEM battery from Amaron, it works good but since it passed 4 years do you think it will give me another year or so or I should change it now?

[Ovi]

Originally Posted by richie4u

Hi guys, I want to voluntarily change the battery of my Safari, so which brand do you guys suggest. I have the OEM battery from Amaron, it works good but since it passed 4 years do you think it will give me another year or so or I should change it now?

Hi Richie

You can get the battery checked at the workshop to see if the specific gravities of the individual cells are fine. That would give you some idea of the battery's condition. However, since its been four years, it would definitely be a good idea to replace the battery just to be sure. I would recommend going for the stock Amaron (AAM-HW-HC620D31R), as its pretty good! If you want to upgrade, then go for the green Amaron (AAM-GO-00105D31R), both are 80Ah.

P.S. I myself have been hanging on to my Safari's original battery for 5+ years now, but I think now its time for me to change as well.

[condor]

@Richie, if your battery is good, then there is no need to change the battery. As @Ovi mentioned, pls get the battery checked. Batteries can last even 6 years.

[saurabh2711]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Nonsense! ..... Please ask them what is happening at that time that causes the choking,... You will be met with a stony silence - they have no clue.

Yes Sir,

Even I thought so. It is Nonsense. He had absolutely no Idea or solution for the starting troubles that I reported.

He commented on my driving style. I do not prefer to rev excessively. I leave my foot on the accelerator, so that engine climbs up on RPMs gradually/slowly not instantly, while cruising. He said all Safari’s emit a large amount of smoke during some RPM settings.
Fortunately (For him) there were no Safari’s around at that time else would have taken him for a ride to check if this happens to others as well.
He suggested to rev more, take engine to higher RPM's & then change gears; so that engine do not hit this dead zone. He also said, people do not go so low on RPM's hence nobody reported this.

There is another TASS, in my vicinity. I will be getting the inspection done again, may be tomorrow & will share the results.

Regards,
Saurabh

[sgmitr13]

Originally Posted by sgmitr13

Took it to TASS Hosur Road, Bangalore.
1) No loose connections anywhere, both underneath the driver seat and under the chassis.
2) ECU is fine, so they are suspecting problems with the Sensors.
3) Transfer case ECU has no scanners, the error codes are determined using Blink Code method; kind of binary output using the LED light illumination. There are about 6 different codes totally.

I was asked to bring the vehicle back on Friday as they don't have spares sensors and I wonder how they would get it in 3 business days.

For now driving around AS IS :(

After a trial and error method, TASS guys narrowed the problem to Speed Sensor in 4x4 gear box. I suspect it is due to a recent under-body wash or being an electrical component it gave away (short circuit?).

As for the cost .. it costs a bomb ... damn Rs.3000

Buddy is still with TASS for the last 4 days :(

[saurabh2711]

Originally Posted by ameaa

... Now the engine missing at 1500 rpm has popped up back. ... This problem was there when the car was new and TASS did lot of trouble shooting but finally it died off at around 60K. Now back again and makes drive uncomfortable seeing all the black puffs engine gives.

Hello Ameaa,

Can you please let me know how did you got rid of the issue? I seem to be facing identical issue apart from few others.. Now my main concern is this missing or dead zone at 1500 RPM.. Runnig across TASS for the solutions for which I get no success & Turn up getting most shocking answers.

Thanks,
Saurabh

[ameaa]

Originally Posted by saurabh2711

Yes Sir,

Even I thought so. It is Nonsense. He had absolutely no Idea or solution for the starting troubles that I reported.

He commented on my driving style. I do not prefer to rev excessively. I leave my foot on the accelerator, so that engine climbs up on RPMs gradually/slowly not instantly, while cruising. He said all Safari’s emit a large amount of smoke during some RPM settings.
Fortunately (For him) there were no Safari’s around at that time else would have taken him for a ride to check if this happens to others as well.
He suggested to rev more, take engine to higher RPM's & then change gears; so that engine do not hit this dead zone. He also said, people do not go so low on RPM's hence nobody reported this.

There is another TASS, in my vicinity. I will be getting the inspection done again, may be tomorrow & will share the results.

Regards,
Saurabh

Surabh, Chocking problem at 1500 rpm is found in many safari. Mine is an Oct 2010 BS4 safari and i had this problem from Day 1. All symptoms as you have mentioned. I was told that there is an ECU update for BS4 model to solve this issue. Some one has mentioned this in this thread also. If you go back few pages. Pls chk with your TASS, though i have not personally done this on mine. Did this pop up only now? Mine once disappeared after i refuelled the car. Not sure if there was an air lock which went off once i opened the cap.

[saurabh2711]

Originally Posted by ameaa

Surabh, Chocking problem at 1500 rpm is found in many safari. Mine is an Oct 2010 BS4 safari and i had this problem from Day 1. All symptoms as you have mentioned. I was told that there is an ECU update for BS4 model to solve this issue. Some one has mentioned this in this thread also. If you go back few pages. Pls chk with your TASS, though i have not personally done this on mine. Did this pop up only now? Mine once disappeared after i refuelled the car. Not sure if there was an air lock which went off once i opened the cap.

Ameaa,

Thanks.
Mine is Sep-2010-BS4 & I too have it from day1. Its the recent developments that have made me to worry more. Yes, I am looking for ECU firmware upgrade as an option as well if it resolves my issues. But the TASS i am following up with, is unable to do it.


Thanks,
Saurabh.

[richie4u]

Hi guys, Got a minor problem, Today when my Safari was parked in my garage I noticed that one of the Fog lights have condensation formed on the glass. The fog light does not seem to be cracked and this is the first time it has occurred after 4 years so how to get it cleared up, does it clean automatically from the heat of the lights when I ON them or do I have to do something manually?

[sgmitr13]

Originally Posted by sgmitr13

After a trial and error method, TASS guys narrowed the problem to Speed Sensor in 4x4 gear box. I suspect it is due to a recent under-body wash or being an electrical component it gave away (short circuit?).

As for the cost .. it costs a bomb ... damn Rs.3000

Buddy is still with TASS for the last 4 days :(

This little fellow is the "speed sensor" and costed Rs.3060.
Labor to detect and replace Rs.1034. All costs includes taxes.

If anyone is pondering .. no none in that spins, its one single solid piece.

With a single digit margin and tough competition in the auto sector, companies make money from such spare parts sale.

[ameaa]

Originally Posted by saurabh2711

Ameaa,

Thanks.
Mine is Sep-2010-BS4 & I too have it from day1. Its the recent developments that have made me to worry more. Yes, I am looking for ECU firmware upgrade as an option as well if it resolves my issues. But the TASS i am following up with, is unable to do it.


Thanks,
Saurabh.

May be below link is helpful.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...-2-2-aria.html

[bj96]

Originally Posted by sgmitr13

... companies make money from such spare parts sale.

Safari transfer case and 4x4 ECU is imported (from Borg Warner). Very likely this sensor is imported too, translates to about $50/- including import duty and other taxes... looks about right.

-BJ